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<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate<br />

NUMBER 15 NEW SERIES<br />

طاوـطولا<br />

ةديدجلا ةلسلسلا 15 ددعلا<br />

2009<br />

SPELEO CLUB<br />

DU LIBAN<br />

Revue <strong>Liban</strong>aise de<br />

<strong>Spéléo</strong>logie et de Karstologie<br />

The Lebanese Review<br />

on Speleology and Karst<br />

ةينانبللا ةلجملا<br />

تسراكلا ملعو رواغملا ةساردل<br />

<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15<br />

| 1


2 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15<br />

| 3


17/1/57 خيرات 90 مقر ربخو ملع 1951 ماع سسأت<br />

28/11/63 خيرات 14262 مقر موسرملا ةماع ةعفنم تاذ ةيعمج<br />

28/11/69 خيرات 512 مقر )طباض( ينطولا زرلاا ماسو لماح<br />

10/10/05 خيرات 154000 مقر )سراف( ينطولا زرلاا ماسو لماح<br />

رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا<br />

نانبل, سايلطنا 70 923 :ب.ص<br />

<strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong><br />

P.O.Box 70 923, Antelias, Lebanon<br />

For more information:<br />

info@speleoliban.org<br />

www.speleoliban.org<br />

ISSN 1999-8287<br />

FONDE EN 1951 AU.MIN.NO. 90 DU 17/1/57<br />

RECONNU D’UTILITE PUBLIQUE DU NO. 14262 DU 28/11/63<br />

CITE A L’ORDRE NATIONAL DU CEDRE (Officier) NO. 512 DU 24/2/69<br />

CITE A L’ORDRE NATIONAL DU CEDRE (Chevalier) NO.15400 DU 10/10/05<br />

يدان مدقأ وه و يبكرك يماسو ماوخ نومير ،يفانأ ريبلا ،ه ّ رغ لانويل دي ىلع رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا سسأت 1951 يف<br />

ةقلعتملا نوؤشلا يف يدانلا متهي .ملاعلا ءاحنا عيمج يف نيعزوم وضع 200 نم رثكا مضي .طسولاا قرشلا يف نيروغتسملل<br />

يف و )1963/11/28 خيرات 14262 مقر موسرملا( ةماع ةعفنم تاذ ةيعمج بقل قحتسا 1963 يف .ةسراكلا ملع و رواغملاب<br />

زرلاا ماسو لان هنأ امك اتيعج ةراغم يف هلامعا ىلع )1969/2/24 خيرات 512 مقر( طباض ةبترب ينطولا زرلاا ماسو لان 1969<br />

.)2005/1./1. خيرات 154000 مقر( سراف ةبترب ينطولا<br />

The <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> was founded in 1951 by Lionel Gorra, <strong>Al</strong>bert Anavy, Raymond Khawam and Sami<br />

Karkabi. It is the oldest caving club in the Middle East. It has over 200 members all over the world. The club<br />

specializes in speleology and karst. The club was awarded the 'A <strong>Club</strong> that is a Benefit to the Public' Order by the<br />

Lebanese government in 1963. 'The National Order of the Cedars', from the Lebanese government was awarded<br />

for their work in Jiita Cave, rank Officer, in 1969. In 2005 a second Order of the Cedars was awarded to the<br />

club, rank Knight.<br />

Le <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> fut fondé en 1951 par Lionel Gorra, <strong>Al</strong>bert Anavy, Raymon Khawam et Sami Karkabi. Il s’agit<br />

<strong>du</strong> plus ancien club de spéléologie au Moyen-Orient et comprend plus de 200 membres au monde entier. Le club est<br />

spécialisé en spéléologie et karstologie. En 1963, il fut décrété d’utilité publique (décret N˚14262 <strong>du</strong> 28/11/1963). En<br />

1969, il reçu l’Ordre National <strong>du</strong> Cèdre <strong>du</strong> grade Officier (N˚512 <strong>du</strong> 24/02/1969) pour les travaux effectués dans la grotte<br />

de Jiita et reçu en 2005, un second Ordre National <strong>du</strong> Cèdre <strong>du</strong> grade Chevalier (N˚154000 <strong>du</strong> 10/10/2005).<br />

<strong>Al</strong>l Rights Reserved<br />

© 2009 SPELEO CLUB DU LIBAN<br />

No part of this publication may be repro<strong>du</strong>ced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy,<br />

recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the permission in writing from the copyright owner.<br />

<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate<br />

NUMBER 15 NEW SERIES<br />

طاوـطولا<br />

ةديدجلا ةلسلسلا 15 ددعلا<br />

Revue <strong>Liban</strong>aise de<br />

<strong>Spéléo</strong>logie et de Karstologie<br />

In collaboration with<br />

The Lebanese National Council for Scientific Research<br />

4 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 5<br />

2009<br />

SPELEO CLUB<br />

DU LIBAN<br />

The Lebanese Review<br />

on Speleology and Karst<br />

ةينانبللا ةلجملا<br />

تسراكلا ملعو رواغملا ةساردل<br />

Editors<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

Layout and collages<br />

Rena Karanouh


“Learn to see” as physician William Osler said in the 19th century.<br />

What helped scientists like Charles Darwin, <strong>Al</strong>fred Russel, Franklen Evans, Edouard Dupont and<br />

others to understand is that they not only possessed the ability to look but also to see. This is the major<br />

foundation for their amazing discoveries.<br />

Learning to ‘look and see’ is what SCL is trying to do.<br />

Lebanon, the land of karst in the Middle East, has a special ecosystem being a melting point<br />

between Africa, Asia and Europe. It has striking caves and karst elements that not only need to be looked at,<br />

but also to be seen.<br />

In Lebanon we are starting to uncover the amazing karst environment that we live in, including our<br />

remarkable caves, speleothems and fauna present in them. <strong>Al</strong>l this and much more are to be looked at and<br />

seen in such a fragile environment. Caves are truly the last frontiers on earth and in Lebanon and they still hold<br />

places that have never been seen before.<br />

Let us keep our eyes open and watch out for the amazing environment that we live in.<br />

We should also thank and pay tribute to our fathers, who got us were we are now, and in their<br />

honour let us teach and help the new generation to follow the path that we have learnt.<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

Editor<br />

We would like to thank Shk. Khalid Bin Thani A. <strong>Al</strong> Thani from First International Investment Group,<br />

Mr. Ab<strong>du</strong>lla Bin Nasser <strong>Al</strong> Misnad from Gulf Cement Company and Mr. Marwan Zgheib from MZ & Partners for<br />

their moral and financial support to ensure a consistent release of our publication.<br />

We would also like to thank Dr. Dia Karanouh and Mrs. Nidal Nseir and Ms. Hala Bou Jaoude for<br />

their valuable revision of the English articles, Stephanie Mailhac for her French translation and Maya Sarrouf<br />

for her help.<br />

اهيفلؤم ةيلؤسم يه طاوطولا ةلجم يف تروشنلما اهونيماضمو تلااقلمأ.<br />

The articles and their content published in the <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate magazine are the responsibility of their authors.<br />

La responsabilité des articles publiés dans <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate n’engagent que leurs auteurs.<br />

10 LES PREMIERS<br />

20 ROUGE SUR BLANC 24 FINAL NOTES<br />

28<br />

TRAÇAGES À<br />

Maïa Sarrouf<br />

ON SALLE<br />

L’URANINE<br />

BEAYNO<br />

AU LIBAN<br />

Elias Labaki<br />

Sami Karkabi<br />

Samer Harb<br />

34 FIRST GEOCHEMICAL 42 JIITA WITH SAMI<br />

50 STALAGMITES AND 54<br />

STUDY OF<br />

Rena Karanouh<br />

COLUMNS OF JIITA<br />

STALAGMITES<br />

Georges Haddad<br />

FROM JIITA CAVE<br />

Fadi Nader<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

68 PRELIMINARY<br />

70 BAT CENSUS IN<br />

74 EVALUATION OF<br />

80<br />

ANALYSIS OF THE<br />

LEBANESE CAVES<br />

HUMAN IMPACTS<br />

ARCHAEOLOGICAL<br />

2008 & 2009<br />

ON KANAAN CAVE<br />

MATERIAL<br />

Assad Saif<br />

Ivan Horáček et al<br />

Maïa Sarrouf<br />

85 مادتسلما طئارلخا مسر<br />

Philipp Häuselmann<br />

88 WHAT’S IN A LOGO<br />

Nadine Sinno<br />

94 OUR THURSDAY<br />

MEETING<br />

HEADQUARTERS<br />

Bashir Khoury<br />

96<br />

98 ADVENTURES IN<br />

CAVE CLIMBING<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

104<br />

IRAN<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

Habib el Helou<br />

Fadi Nader<br />

108 DISCOVERING ES-<br />

SUWAYDA<br />

LAVA CAVES IN<br />

SOUTHERN SYRIA<br />

Johnny Tawk et al<br />

112<br />

contents<br />

THE SALLE<br />

BLANCHE<br />

EXPEDITION<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

Wassim Hamdan<br />

LA PHOTOGRAPHIE<br />

SPÉLÉOLOGIQUE<br />

AU LIBAN<br />

Sami Karkabi<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

RAYMOND KHAWAM<br />

Sami Karkabi<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

PROTECTING OUR<br />

CAVING HERITAGE<br />

Karen Moarkech<br />

BARLANGS IN<br />

BUDAPEST<br />

& UNDER AGGTELEK<br />

Emma Porter<br />

116 A RENDEZVOUS WITH 118 A YEAR INSIDE<br />

126 ROUEISS GEOLOGY 132 NEW DISCOVERIES<br />

MAMMOTH CAVE<br />

ROUEISS CAVE<br />

Rena Karanouh<br />

Rena Karanouh<br />

Hadi Kasammani,<br />

Wassim Hamdan,<br />

Nabil Shehab<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

6 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 7


A canyon passage in Rahoue cave<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

> Mgharet el Rahoue<br />

> The detailed survey of Chaos, Jiita.<br />

> The Pearls of Jiita.<br />

Thanks to our generous sponsors<br />

Shk. Khalid Bin Thani A. <strong>Al</strong> Thani,<br />

Mr. Ab<strong>du</strong>lla Bin Nasser <strong>Al</strong> Misnad<br />

and Mr. Marwan Zgheib, the<br />

coming issue of <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat’Ouate<br />

Magazine, issue 16, is already in<br />

the works. Several articles are<br />

already being researched. Here<br />

are some of the new discoveries,<br />

scientific reasearch and many<br />

varied cave related issues that<br />

will appear in our next issue:<br />

> Underground Activities<br />

> The Pearls of Kanaan.<br />

> Bats survey of Lebanon, 2010<br />

> Roueiss cave Archeology > Mgharet el Hadid<br />

<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 16<br />

> Karst plateau > Colouration. > The karst of Lebanon<br />

8 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 9


.بيرغ عباط ةراغلما هذهل<br />

مجح« مجلحا ثيح نم نانبل يف رواغلما ةعيلط يف نوكت نا ديرت يه<br />

.تلاكشتلا لامجو عافترلااو لوطلاو »تلاكشتلاو تارملما<br />

هذه مهاو .ةراغلما هذه لخاد رطسم نانبل يف راوغتسلأا خيرات<br />

نانبل يف راوغتسلاا ةدمعا دحأ ةدايقب ينينانبللا دي ىلع ةئاج تافاشتكلاا<br />

.يبكرك يماس ديسلا رواغلما يف بيقنتلل ينانبلا يدانلا يسسؤم دحاو<br />

عقوم نلاا وهو يولعلا قباطلا فاشتكا ىلع ةنس ينسمخ دعب<br />

رارساب ظفتتح لازت ام ةراغلما هذه .يبرعلا انلماع يف مارتحلااب ريدج يحايس<br />

.لمم سيلو قيطب لكشب نكلو ًايرود اهنع حاصفلاا ىلع دمتعتو<br />

ةراغلما هذه لمج ىلع طاوطولا ةلجم نم ددعلا اذه يف ءوضلا يقلن<br />

تارماغمو ناولأا ةددعتم تلاكشت نم اهلماعم نع حاصفلاا للاخ نم<br />

.اهلخاد تافاشتكلأا ةقفار ةقوشم<br />

هيلع ةظفالمحاو اتيعج ةراغلم بيرغلا عباطلا اذه عم ملقأتن نا بجي<br />

.ةمداقلا لايجلاا كلم هنلا<br />

Have you ever met Jiita?<br />

It can never bore you.<br />

You can never but enjoy every moment you spend in her realms. It<br />

amazes you when you go in but will beat you every time on your way out.<br />

But it is surely a cave with an attitude.<br />

Jiita cave wants to be the Giant of all caves in Lebanon. It desires to be<br />

the longest, the largest, the most beautiful and the one that holds the most<br />

cave secrets.<br />

It is the mother of our founding fathers. It witnessed the birth of our<br />

club in 1951. It triggered a swirl of caving adventures in Lebanon. Caving<br />

history was written in it.<br />

Fifty years since the discovery of its Upper Gallery, Jiita is now<br />

the most visited tourist attraction in Lebanon, its beauty rivaling many<br />

international show caves.<br />

This cave still holds on to many of its secrets. But it is slowly showing<br />

them to us bit by bit. The process is so slow it hurts, but still, anything<br />

worthwhile is worth waiting for, right?<br />

We pay tribute in this issue of the <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat’Ouate magazine to this<br />

amazing cave by showing you some of its new secrets: big columns;<br />

amazing stalagmites; stories from one of its great discoverers Mr. Sami<br />

Karkabi; its white and red galleries; and its climatic imprints...all this and<br />

more.<br />

We keep on watching for what she decides to unveil next.<br />

Connaissez-vous Jiita?<br />

Vous ne pourriez que prendre plaisir de chaque moment passé dans<br />

ses bras. Jiita vous surprendra et vous marquera de manière inoubliable<br />

au cours de votre visite et bien après. Cette grotte a sûrement un caractère,<br />

un charme, la plus longue des grottes libanaises, la plus jolie et surtout,<br />

la plus secrète. Elle est la mère de nos pères fondateurs et témoin de la<br />

naissance de notre club en 1951 où le berceau et l’histoire des aventures<br />

spéléologiques libanaises furent écrits.<br />

50 ans après la découverte des Galeries Supérieures, Jiita est la plus<br />

grande attraction touristique <strong>du</strong> pays et sa beauté rivalise celle des grottes<br />

internationales aménagées.<br />

Conservant minutieusement ses secrets, Jiita les dévoile peu à peu.<br />

Le progrès est lent et douloureux, mais les résultats prouvent le mérite des<br />

efforts.<br />

Dans cette édition <strong>du</strong> magazine <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate, nous rendons hommage<br />

à cette grotte en vous dévoilant, autant que possible, sa splendeur, ses<br />

colonnes, ses stalagmites, les histoires de son plus grand explorateur M.<br />

Sami Karkabi, ses galeries rouges et blanches, ses empreintes climatiques…<br />

tout cela et encore plus.<br />

Prenez plaisir dans l’attente de ses prochains dévoilements.<br />

10 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 11


DYE-TRACING hISToRY<br />

Sami Karkabi | kraks@cyberia.net.lb<br />

LES<br />

PREMIERS<br />

TRAÇAGES<br />

ÀL’URANINE<br />

AU LIBAN<br />

Résumé<br />

Le désaccord qui opposait la Compagnie des Eaux<br />

de Beyrouth à la Société des Eaux <strong>du</strong> Kesrouan remonte à<br />

1911. Il concernait le captage des eaux de Nabaa el Laban<br />

à des fins d’irrigation. La Compagnie assurait qu’elle<br />

était lésée par ce captage, soupçonnant que les eaux qui<br />

s’écoulaient librement auparavant dans le lit <strong>du</strong> Nahr<br />

es Salib alimentaient aux travers de fissures la rivière<br />

souterraine de Jiita, ce cours d’eau souterrain ravitaillant<br />

à son tour la rivière souterraine. Trois traçages à la<br />

fluorescéine destinés à vérifier les faits furent entrepris en<br />

1913 dans des conditions précaires, rendant les résultats<br />

peu fiables.<br />

Afin de mettre fin à ce litige, le Général Weygand,<br />

Haut Commissaire de la République Française en Syrie<br />

et au <strong>Liban</strong>, institue par décision N°1998, le 26 juillet<br />

1923, une ‘’Commission’’ destinée à chercher l’origine de<br />

l’alimentation en eaux de la source principale <strong>du</strong> Nahr el<br />

Kelb.<br />

C’est à la suite de recherches effectuées dans les<br />

archives diplomatiques de Nantes (Mandat Syrie-<strong>Liban</strong>) et<br />

dans la revue <strong>Al</strong> Kulliyah de l’Université Américaine de<br />

Beyrouth qu’un certain nombre d’éléments relatifs à cette<br />

affaire ont été reconstitués.<br />

Il nous est apparu indispensable, vu la complexité de<br />

cette histoire, de retracer brièvement les différentes phases<br />

de son évolution.<br />

يذلا لدجلاب ةطيحملا فورظلاو لحارملا ىلا لاقملا اذه قرطتي<br />

هايم ةيعمجو توريب هايم ةكرش نيب نبللا عبن مرح ىلع لصح<br />

عبن نم ةقفدتملا هايملا نا لوقت ةكرشلا .1911 ماع يف ناورسك<br />

يفوجلا ىرجملا يذغتل بيلصلا ةقطنم يف قوقشلا يف روغت نبللا<br />

نم دكأتلل 1914 ةنس تلصح يتلا نيولتلا تايلمع .اتيعج عبنل<br />

نانبلل يماسلا ضوفملا ماق كلاذل .ًاعفن يدجت مل ةيرظنلا هذه<br />

1923 زومت يف 1998 مقر رارق رادصأب دراغنيو لارنجلا كاذنا ايروسو<br />

فيشراب ثحابلأ نيعتسي .لاكشلأا اذه يف رظنلل ةنجل نيعتب<br />

.تنان يف يسامولبدلا فيشرلااو ةيكرملأا ةعماجلا<br />

The disagreement on the catchment area of Nabaa el Laban between the<br />

Beirut Water Company and the Society of Waters of Kesrouan goes back to<br />

1911. The Company argued that the water passing freely in the bed of Nahr<br />

el Salib fed the underground river of Jiita through fissures and fractures.<br />

Three tracing tests using fluorescéine were undertaken in 1913 to prove<br />

this theory, proved inconclusive. To put an end to this debate, the General<br />

Weygand, high commissioner of the French République in Syria and in<br />

Lebanon, formulates a decision N°1998, on July 26th, 1923. The decision<br />

stipulates a «Commission» intended to search for the main source of Nahr<br />

el Kelb. This paper shortly illustrates the history and the stages regarding<br />

the issue at hand with the aid of information gathered from the archives of<br />

’Archives Diplomatiques de Nantes’ (Mandate Syria – Lebanon) and the <strong>Al</strong><br />

Kulliyah bulletin from the American University of Beirut.<br />

Il nous est apparu<br />

indispensable,<br />

vu la complexité<br />

de cette histoire,<br />

de retracer<br />

brièvement<br />

les différentes<br />

phases de son<br />

évolution.<br />

L’alimentation en eau de Beyrouth en 1870<br />

La capitale libanaise est ravitaillée dès 1870 par<br />

les eaux issues de la résurgence des grottes de Jiita,<br />

source principale <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kelb. La concession de cette<br />

opération appelée ‘’Entreprise des Eaux de Beyrouth’’<br />

(devenue Compagnie des Eaux de Beyrouth) est accordée<br />

le 22 juillet 1870 par firman <strong>du</strong> Gouvernement Impérial<br />

Ottoman à M. Thevenin, ingénieur français, aux conditions<br />

suivantes : les eaux nécessaires seront empruntées au Nahr<br />

el Kelb en un point voisin de son embouchure dans la<br />

Méditerranée et seront con<strong>du</strong>ites par un canal d’amenée à<br />

l’usine de Dbayeh. Une partie de ces eaux servira de force<br />

motrice aux turbines qui la refouleront à Beyrouth, l’autre<br />

sera préalablement filtrée puis élevée au moyen d’une<br />

usine hydraulique qui s’établira et fonctionnera de façon<br />

à ne gêner ni les irrigations ni les moulins desservis par le<br />

cours d’eau. La quantité d’eau amenée à Beyrouth est fixée<br />

au minimum à 4000 m 3 par 24 heures. L’eau utilisée pour<br />

refouler à la vapeur 1 m 3 , exigerait l’emploi de dix autres<br />

mètres cubes environ par les installations hydrauliques.<br />

Le 6 novembre 1897 cette concession, à courir de la<br />

date <strong>du</strong> firman impérial, a été prolongée de 40 ans par une<br />

convention additionnelle.<br />

L’alimentation en eau <strong>du</strong> Kesrouan<br />

Le 3 avril 1893, un permis d’exploitation à but<br />

d’irrigation, <strong>du</strong> Nahr es Salib est accordé par la cour<br />

administrative <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> au Cheikh Sejaan Maroun el<br />

Khazen. La Compagnie ne s’en inquiéta pas estimant que<br />

le Cheikh n’avait apparemment pas les moyens financiers<br />

d’aboutir mais soupçonnant toutefois, quoique n’en ayant<br />

aucune preuve, que les eaux issues de la résurgence de Jiita<br />

étaient directement alimentées par les eaux d’infiltration<br />

provenant <strong>du</strong> Nahr es Salib.<br />

En 1905, les droits <strong>du</strong> Cheikh Sejaan, étaient<br />

transférés au Cheikh Mansour el Bittar.<br />

Au mois de Juin 1907, Sélim Bey Chaker, sujet<br />

ottoman, natif <strong>du</strong> village libanais de Deir el Harf,<br />

représentant un syndicat de financiers d’Egypte, demande<br />

à la cour administrative de transférer encore une fois ces<br />

droits à son propre nom. Craignant que cette fois ne soit<br />

réalisé le projet, la Compagnie s’en alarme et proteste<br />

de façon formelle auprès de Youssef Pacha, Gouverneur<br />

<strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>. Cette crainte découle <strong>du</strong> fait, que si la quantité<br />

d’eau fournie pendant les mois d’hiver suffisait à tous les<br />

besoins, il n’en serait pas de même à l’étiage (de juin à<br />

novembre) pour refouler 640.000 m 3 d’eau à la vapeur. A<br />

ceci, s’ajouterait l’obligation de modifier les installations<br />

hydrauliques afin de les adapter à un débit plus ré<strong>du</strong>it que<br />

celui pour lequel elles avaient été calculées, d’où préjudice<br />

et énorme dommage.<br />

Ne tenant aucun compte de cette protestation ainsi<br />

que celle de la demande de Sélim Bey Chaker,<br />

12 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 13


Youssef Pacha, accorde une nouvelle autorisation à Michel<br />

Bey Tueni. La Compagnie protesta alors auprès de la<br />

Sublime Porte, par l’intermédiaire <strong>du</strong> Wali de Beyrouth. Le<br />

Gouverneur <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> fut invité à fournir des explications<br />

et le Gouvernement Impérial envoya de Constantinople<br />

un haut fonctionnaire des Travaux Publics mandaté pour<br />

effectuer une étude scientifique et géologique de concert<br />

avec les ingénieurs <strong>du</strong> Wilayet et <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>. Toutefois,<br />

la Compagnie n’ayant qu’une confiance limitée dans<br />

les connaissances scientifiques de ces fonctionnaires,<br />

demanda au Wali de Beyrouth de leur adjoindre M. Elie<br />

Day, professeur de géologie au Collège Américain. La<br />

Compagnie profita d’une absence <strong>du</strong> dit professeur, pour<br />

se rendre dans le Kesrouan et faire seule son enquête. Le<br />

rapport fut présenté le 21 octobre 1908. Il contenait de<br />

nombreuses erreurs et lacunes. Le professeur Day se rend<br />

alors dans les vallées <strong>du</strong> Nahr es Salib et <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kelb.<br />

Son étude conclut à la probabilité d’une communication<br />

souterraine entre le haut Nahr es Salib et les grottes de<br />

Jiita. Une série d’observations confirmèrent cette opinion.<br />

Dès lors, Michel Bey Tueni, renonça à continuer ses<br />

démarches.<br />

Extrait de l’étude <strong>du</strong> Pr. A. E. Day publié en 1912:<br />

… The river bed at Meiruba and the Jaita<br />

cave are both in the lower (Jurassic)<br />

limestone of Lebanon, and it is probable<br />

that the whole of the subterranean channel<br />

is excavated in this formation. Caves are<br />

common in limestone countries, being formed<br />

by the solvent action of the water of the<br />

rains and the snows as it percolates through<br />

the rock. While it has been stated as<br />

probable that the water which flows out of<br />

the Dog River cave, it must be remembered<br />

that this not been proved. If a large amount<br />

of solution of some harmless coloring matter<br />

were turning into stream near Meiruba at<br />

the time of low water in the latter part of<br />

the summer, while competent persons made<br />

careful observations at the Dog River cave,<br />

it might thereby be ascertained whether or<br />

not the water of Meiruba forms a part of<br />

the subterranean river. This would entail<br />

considerable expense and careful attention<br />

from skilled observers. A demonstration of<br />

another character seems likely to be made in<br />

the near future. A company has been formed<br />

to divert the water of Neb’-ul-Asal by an<br />

aque<strong>du</strong>ct, which shall take it to the region<br />

of Reifun, Ajaltun, and Ashkut. Preliminary<br />

surveys were made recently and it may be<br />

that the plan will be carried out. It is to<br />

be hoped that if is results in a diminution<br />

of the output of water from the Dog River<br />

cave, the amount remaining may prove to be<br />

sufficient for the wants of Beirut. The<br />

Beirut Water Company contested the right of<br />

the new Company to divert the head waters of<br />

the Dog River systems, but the litigation<br />

resulted unfavorably to the Beirut Company.<br />

(réf. <strong>Al</strong>-Kulliyah,<strong>Al</strong>fred Ely Day, Professor<br />

of geology - A.U.B. - Vol. III N°3, p.72 –<br />

January 1912).<br />

Sélim Bey Chaker revint à la charge en 1911. Malgré<br />

les protestations de la Compagnie, la concession lui<br />

fut finalement accordée par «mazbata» sanctionné le<br />

7 juillet 1911 par Youssef Pacha, Gouverneur <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>.<br />

Ce dernier accorde à M. Sélim Bey Chaker le droit de la<br />

fourniture, d’alimentation et d’irrigation à divers villages<br />

<strong>du</strong> Kesrouan. Le transfert de cette concession prend<br />

nom de ‘’Société des Eaux <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>’’. Elle sera reportée<br />

quatre mois plus tard par son bénéficiaire à une société<br />

constituée par un groupement anglais. Le gouvernement de<br />

Constantinople ne parait pas être intervenu dans l’affaire.<br />

Sur quoi la Compagnie adressa le 1er novembre 1911<br />

au Ministère des Travaux Publics une dépêche le rendant<br />

responsable des dommages que l’octroi de cette concession<br />

entraînerait. Suite à cette dépêche, le Ministre des Travaux<br />

Publics nomma une commission d’experts et adressa au<br />

Wali de Beyrouth, en date <strong>du</strong> 17 novembre 1911, l’ordre<br />

de faire rechercher par cette commission, soit par matières<br />

colorantes, soit par examen microscopique, si oui ou<br />

non, il y avait communication entre les eaux <strong>du</strong> Nahr es<br />

Salib et les grottes de Jiita et, en attendant les résultats, de<br />

suspendre les travaux. Puis le temps passa et rien ne fut<br />

exécuté.<br />

La Compagnie protesta à nouveau, mais cette fois<br />

par acte notarié <strong>du</strong> 31 janvier 1912. Cette démarche<br />

n’ayant pas plus de succès que les autres et la Commission<br />

Officielle n’ayant aucune velléité de remplir sa mission, le<br />

Consul Général de France intervint en raison des intérêts<br />

français considérables représentés dans la Compagnie, et,<br />

sur son désir, celle-ci lui adressa le 14 février 1913 un<br />

rapport complet réclamant de surcroît son intervention<br />

personnelle.<br />

Cette fois, après un nouvel ordre <strong>du</strong> Ministère des<br />

Travaux Publics en date <strong>du</strong> 2 avril 1913, le Gouvernement<br />

<strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> s’exécuta et ainsi que le Wilayet le faisait de<br />

son côté, désigna en Août une Commission d’experts,<br />

composée de membres <strong>du</strong> Conseil Administratif <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong><br />

et <strong>du</strong> Wilayet afin de réexaminer la situation.<br />

Les premières colorations<br />

Les colorations de la Société des Eaux <strong>du</strong> Kesrouan<br />

et de la Compagnie des Eaux de Beyrouth (septembre et<br />

novembre 1913).<br />

1 - la Compagnie fit faire par son personnel un<br />

essai privé de coloration qui, exécuté le plus discrètement<br />

possible (sans témoins accrédités) et sans attirer<br />

l’attention, donnait des résultats prouvant l’existence<br />

d’une communication souterraine entre le Nahr es Salib<br />

et le Nahr el Kelb. Ces résultats sont consignés dans un<br />

procès-verbal d’analyse établi le 6 septembre 1913 par<br />

le Docteur GUIGES, professeur à la Faculté Française<br />

de Médecine. Ce document n’a pas été trouvé dans les<br />

archives diplomatiques de Nantes.<br />

2 – la seconde coloration (20kg d’uranine versés à<br />

Nahr es Salib) réalisée le 30 septembre 1913 en privé par<br />

la ‘’Concession’’ n’a donné aucun résultat positif. Il reste<br />

que ces deux expériences restent entachées <strong>du</strong> même vice,<br />

celui d’une trop courte attente à la sortie des eaux de la<br />

résurgence de Jiita et ne peuvent servir de témoignage.<br />

3 - La troisième expérience (30kg d’uranine),<br />

officielle cette fois-ci, a été exécutée le 6 novembre 1913<br />

par une commission déléguée par la Compagnie. Elle fut<br />

entourée d’une publicité inévitable. Malheureusement la<br />

Commission eut le tort d’attendre trop peu de temps à la<br />

grotte de Jiita, et de faire ses prélèvements d’eau avant<br />

l’arrivée de la grande masse de colorant, qui ne survint,<br />

prétend-elle, qu’après son départ et dont les habitants<br />

de Beyrouth ont gardé le souvenir car ils le burent deux<br />

jours <strong>du</strong>rant. Mais cette présence de colorant n’avait<br />

pas été constatée officiellement à la grotte même, et les<br />

échantillons prélevés prématurément par la Commission<br />

n’ayant donné de traces qu’au fluoroscope, sans coloration<br />

visible à l’œil, la majorité de la Commission déclara<br />

l’expérience insuffisante.<br />

DOCUMENT N° 9 – Rapport <strong>du</strong> chimiste James A. Patch, chargé par la Compagnie des Eaux de Beyrouth de prélever et<br />

d’analyser les échantillons d’eau à la grotte de Jiita. Ce rapport est daté <strong>du</strong> 8 novembre 1913, c’est-à-dire au surlendemain<br />

de la coloration effectuée avec 30kg de fluorescéine au niveau de Nabaa el Mghara dans la région de Meiruba. Comme<br />

signalé plus haut, l’attente fut trop courte et seul le témoignage tardif de M J. Patch (voir plus loin, “The Dog river dyed<br />

green” confirme par la suite la réussite de l’expérience.<br />

Dear Sir,<br />

At your request on Nov 6, I took in collecting and examining samples of water from the<br />

Nahr el Kelb as issues from the cave of Jiita. The object of the test was to determine if<br />

the water contained any trace of the special dye called ‘’uranine’’ which had been added to<br />

the extent of 30 kilos in the Nahr Salib before it disappears in the ground.<br />

I took the first sample at 10.50 A.M. Thursday, Nov.6th. It consisted of an ‘elfeeyah’<br />

(approximately 3 liters) and being perfectly clear, was reserved for comparison. At 11.15<br />

A.M. we began to take regular samples of 250 cc. each every 15 minutes, and continued<br />

the sampling without a break until 8 A.M. Friday morning, the samples sent to Beirut for<br />

further analysis. Here each was treated and traces which might not be evident in the tube<br />

comparisons. Colorimetric comparisons of the samples which in 1-10,000,000 solution of<br />

uranine showed them free from color. As a result of the examination of original samples and<br />

later the collective samples, I am able to state that between the hours of 11,15 A.M. on<br />

Thursday and 8 A.M. on Friday, Nov. 6-7, no trace of uranine could be found in water.<br />

Trusting that report will serve you need, I remain,<br />

Yours very sincerely,<br />

(Sgd) James A. Patch<br />

THE DOG RIVER DYED GREEN<br />

<strong>Al</strong>-Kullyah, Vol. N°3 - January 1914<br />

LES PREMIERS TRAÇAGES<br />

À L’URANINE AU LIBAN<br />

In <strong>Al</strong>-Kulliyah for January 1912 appeared an interesting article giving a description of the<br />

Dog River Cave and of the experiences of various exploring parties who have made excursions<br />

into the cave. Towards, Professor Day, discusses the possibility of the water flowing<br />

from the cave being the same as that which sinks into the river bed of Nahr us-Salib near<br />

Meiruba. Professor Day suggests, as a method of proving this connection, that there be<br />

emptied into the Nahr-us-Salib near Meiruba a large quantity of some harmless dye which, if<br />

there is a connection between the streams, would appear later in the water at the Dog River<br />

Cave.<br />

Considerable importance has recently become attached to the proving or disproving of<br />

this connection between the two rivers. The water supply of the City of Beirut is mainly<br />

drawn from the stream issuing from the Dog River Cave. Another water company is now engaged<br />

in reconstructing tunnels and aque<strong>du</strong>cts preparatory to diverting the water of Nar-ul-Assal,<br />

which at present flows into the Nahr-us-Salib, and so, perhaps eventually, into the Dog<br />

River, to supply the needs of the towns of Reifun, Ajaltun and Ashkut. If, as many believe,<br />

the Neb-ul-Assal water furnishes one-fifth of the Dog River supply, then the leading away of<br />

this amount would appreciably decrease the Beirut supply, especially at the end of the dry<br />

season.<br />

The writer was recently called to assist in making such a color test as Professor Day<br />

has suggested. By previous arrangement with both the Beirut and the Reifun water companies a<br />

large quantity of a special dye, called ‘’uranine’’, was dissolved in water and turned into<br />

the Nahr-us-Salib near Meiruba at seven o’clock on the morning of Nov. 6th, last. Uranine<br />

when in dilute solutions, imparts to water a beautiful green fluorescence, greater dilution<br />

can still observed by looking through a considerable length of solution in a colorimetric<br />

tube. On the occasion here described sufficient uranine (30 kilograms) was poured into Nahrus-Salib<br />

to give a strong color to all the water that then flowing from the Dog River Cave<br />

in twenty-for hours (about 130.000 cubic meters). The color was dissolved and mixed with<br />

the stream by representatives of the Beirut Water Company. Soon after the experiment was<br />

made, tests were begun on the water flowing from the Dog River Cave. Samples were collected<br />

and tested every fifteen minutes until eight o’clock the following morning, that is, until<br />

twenty-five hours elapsed after the color was added to the Nahr-us-Salib at<br />

14 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 15


Meiruba. From the length of time it took the color to travel a given distance in the stream<br />

above, it had been calculated that the color ought to appear at the cave in about nine<br />

hours. Sixteen additional hours were considered a very safe margin to wait for appearance<br />

of the uranine. However, <strong>du</strong>ring all this time not the slightest indication of coloration<br />

appeared.<br />

It was a great disappointment to many of the watchers of this interesting experiment to<br />

realize that their belief in a close connection between the two streams must be altered.<br />

<strong>Al</strong>l the small samples of water collected <strong>du</strong>ring the test were mixed in two-hour samples<br />

in large bottles and brought to the College for further testing, but with the same negative<br />

results. The most careful examination failed to show any signs of coloration and a report<br />

was made out to that effect.<br />

On the morning of November 12th, six days later, a messenger from the water company<br />

at Dubeiyeh appeared at the College to say that at six o’clock that morning the water of<br />

the Dog River began to run green. Mr McCann, representing the writer, went out on the next<br />

train and hastened to the cave to make note of the facts. He reported on his return the<br />

green appearance of the water and brought with him a sample of the colored water to be<br />

tested. Uranine was present but in a very minute quantity. The following morning the writer<br />

tested the city supply in the laboratory and in his house and found it also green but much<br />

less colored than the cave water. For more than a day the city of Beirut drank green water<br />

without knowing it. Those who looked at the sample in the writer’s laboratory can testify<br />

to the fact that it was really green.<br />

The experience of the previous week had altered our belief in regard to the origin<br />

of the Dog River water. Now this new incident again upset out conclusions. Surely the<br />

green in the water must have come from Meiruba, but where had it been all this time? How<br />

could it have been concealed for six days within a distance of thirteen kilometers? At a<br />

previous test one month before a similar tardy appearance of the color was reported to have<br />

occurred.<br />

After all, then, Professor Day’s conjecture is perhaps correct. Until some new data<br />

is presented it is natural to assume that the water, which is sinking into the stony river<br />

bed of the Nahr-us-Salib, appears again at the Dog River Cave. Not many months hence a more<br />

certain proof of the truth or falsity of the assumption will be furnished by the actual<br />

diverting of the Neb-ul-Assal waters.<br />

James A. Patch<br />

Malgré l’apparition <strong>du</strong> colorant à Dbaiyeh et dans<br />

les robinets de Beyrouth, la Commission n’osa conclure<br />

l’exactitude des résultats obtenus. La Commission de 1913<br />

se proposait de renouveler ses expériences à la fin de l’été<br />

de 1914, mais survient la guerre, et la question des Eaux <strong>du</strong><br />

Nabeh el Assal tombe dans un sommeil de sept ans. Quand<br />

la Société des Eaux <strong>du</strong> Kesrouan manifeste l’intention de<br />

les reprendre, la Compagnie des Eaux de Beyrouth proteste<br />

de nouveau et obtient le 5 octobre 1922 <strong>du</strong> gouverneur <strong>du</strong><br />

Grand <strong>Liban</strong> la nomination d’une commission nouvelle<br />

chargée de réaliser le programme interrompu par les<br />

hostilités.<br />

Mais cette commission présidée par le Directeur<br />

des Travaux Publics <strong>du</strong> Haut-Commissariat, posa dans<br />

les deux séances qu’elle tint, les 12 et 14 <strong>du</strong> même<br />

mois, la question préjudiciable suivante : nommée par<br />

le Gouvernement <strong>du</strong> Grand <strong>Liban</strong>, héritier de l’ancienne<br />

Administration <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>, avait-elle le droit, le cas<br />

échéant, de conclure à la responsabilité pécuniaire de ce<br />

Gouvernement ? A la majorité, elle estima que non, et<br />

conclut à son incompétence.<br />

Devant cette fin de non-recevoir, la Compagnie des<br />

Eaux de Beyrouth se retourna vers le Haut-Commissariat.<br />

Elle lui demanda de constituer une commission définitive<br />

indépendante <strong>du</strong> Grand <strong>Liban</strong> et susceptible de mener à<br />

bien les expériences ajournées depuis neuf ans. La saison<br />

était trop tardive pour y procéder en 1922.<br />

Afin de mettre fin à ce litige, le Général Weygand,<br />

Haut-Commissaire de la République Française en Syrie<br />

et au <strong>Liban</strong>, institue par décision N°1998, le 26 juillet<br />

1923, une ‘Commission’ destinée à chercher l’origine de<br />

l’alimentation en eaux de la source principale <strong>du</strong> Nahr el<br />

Kelb.<br />

Cette «Commission» comprenait deux représentants<br />

<strong>du</strong> Haut-Commissariat, deux représentants de<br />

l’Administration <strong>du</strong> Grand <strong>Liban</strong>, un représentant de la<br />

Compagnie des Eaux de Beyrouth, le concessionnaire des<br />

Eaux <strong>du</strong> Nabeh el Assal, plus un représentant de la Société<br />

rétrocessionnaire, ainsi que deux experts indépendants<br />

de l’Administration et des parties en cause. Le point<br />

essentiel qui nous intéresse ici est la procé<strong>du</strong>re à suivre<br />

pour des expériences de coloration des eaux <strong>du</strong> Nahr es<br />

Salib au moyen d’uranine fournie par la Compagnie des<br />

Eaux de Beyrouth. Pour réaliser ce projet, une commission<br />

parallèle est créée, composée d’un ingénieur chimiste,<br />

d’un géologue, d’observateurs en amont lors de l’injection<br />

<strong>du</strong> colorant et d’observateurs en aval à la résurgence pour<br />

certifier l’arrivée <strong>du</strong> colorant. En outre, et afin d’assurer le<br />

bon déroulement de l’opération et éviter toute équivoque,<br />

une dizaine de gendarmes sont affectés à l’entrée de la<br />

grotte de Jiita.<br />

Les opérations préparatoires comprenaient une<br />

reconnaissance des lieux permettant une étude géologique,<br />

la localisation des pertes supposées, une mission de<br />

jaugeage et bien enten<strong>du</strong> le programme concernant<br />

l’opération de coloration elle-même.<br />

A – Considérations géologiques<br />

(Larges extraits <strong>du</strong> rapport géologique (Septembre<br />

1923) de M. Odinot professeur de Géologie à l’école<br />

Française d’Ingénieurs de Beyrouth (Fig. 1). Note : lire en<br />

place de Ouadi bou Roqaa, Nahr es Salib tel qu’indiqué sur<br />

les cartes en 1923.<br />

Nous avons remonté le Nahr es Salib un kilomètre environ en amont de Nabaa el Mghâra sur les premières pentes <strong>du</strong><br />

Sannine. L’endroit où est établi notre campement est assez caractéristique ; en aval les couches sont calcaires, plongent<br />

25 degrés environ O.E. en direction N.S. et se rétablissent horizontalement à hauteur de Maïroûba où les parois de la<br />

rivière, deviennent très abruptes jusqu’au moment où nous avons suivi le lit de la rivière, c’est-à-dire jusqu’au droit de<br />

Reyfoun. En amont les couches calcaires plongent sous une puissante venue de basalte qui les a métamorphosés. L’arête<br />

rocheuse aussi bien côté Maïroûba que côté Mazraat Kfar Debian, est recouverte dans ses parties horizontales par les<br />

grés rouges. On peut donc se situer logiquement dans la partie où ont eu lieu les essais, l’on se trouve dans les calcaires<br />

les plus anciens de la montagne <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>, c’est-à-dire vraisemblablement dans le Jurassique supérieur et sous le dernier<br />

étage le plus ancien <strong>du</strong> crétacé, le grès <strong>du</strong> néocomien qu’on retrouve dans la vallée <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kelb, en aval de la grotte<br />

de Jiita, mais ici les couches sont presque verticales.<br />

Ces considérations permettant ainsi de présumer que le fond de la vallée n’est pas imperméable mais que les apports<br />

de la rivière ont constitué une sorte de colmatage jusqu’à présent perméable de la partie inférieure de la vallée en la<br />

nivelant à peu près. Ceci laisse supposer et permet de considérer qu’il y a un lit souterrain inférieur au niveau actuel <strong>du</strong><br />

lit aérien avec lequel il y aura communication tant que le colmatage ne sera pas complet. Mais nous devons dire aussi<br />

que par suite <strong>du</strong> cours naturel des choses, l’effet de colmatage sera certainement d’amener un jour le lit souterrain à<br />

être aérien sur tout son parcours. L’inclinaison des couches dans la partie amont <strong>du</strong> Platane semblerait indiquer que les<br />

eaux qui se perdent dans cette partie de la rivière peuvent être captées et dirigées vers et sous la circonscription <strong>du</strong><br />

Sannine, puisque ces couches plongent à<br />

l’Est. Les eaux qui s’infiltrent dans les lits de<br />

stratification sont vraisemblablement dirigées de<br />

ce côté. Un réseau souterrain de fissures doit<br />

certainement exister dans toute la région<br />

commandée par le Sannine pouvant modifier assez<br />

considérablement le système d’écoulement des<br />

eaux superficielles et il est très probable qu’il doit<br />

y avoir d’assez grandes différences entre les<br />

lignes de séparation des eaux à la surface (eaux<br />

pluviales) ou bassin topographique et la ligne de<br />

séparation des eaux souterraines (eaux<br />

d’infiltration) ou bassin d’alimentation<br />

proprement dit.<br />

Pour parler en complète connaissance de cause il faudrait faire l’étude <strong>du</strong> bassin hydrographique complet <strong>du</strong> Nahr el<br />

Kelb. Mais ceci demande <strong>du</strong> temps. Ce qu’il y a de certain, c’et que la nature <strong>du</strong> terrain qui est fissuré en grand dans un<br />

seul étage géologique rend probable au plus haut degré la communication entre le bas et le haut, entre le Nahr el Kelb et<br />

le Nahr es Salib.<br />

Il sera beaucoup plus délicat de déterminer dans quelles proportions, si même cela est possible, car dans des<br />

expériences sincères et exemptes de toute critique au point de vue qui nous occupe, il faudrait faire surveiller tous les<br />

points d’où peut sortir l’eau. L’évaluation de la relation quantitative entre les grottes de Jiita et le Nahr es Salib peut<br />

se faire en serrant de très près la vérité, à l’aide d’un colorant sensible dans le genre de l’uranine. Les conditions<br />

géologiques sont donc au plus haut degré favorables à ce que les eaux qui sortent aux grottes de Jiita constituent une<br />

résurgence partielle des eaux per<strong>du</strong>es aux environ de Maïroûba. Concernant ce dernier point, des jaugeages dans les<br />

bassins supérieurs et inférieurs renseigneront utilement sur la perméabilité des lits et les quantités disponibles utilisées<br />

et per<strong>du</strong>es de l’eau en question.<br />

Beyrouth, le 28 septembre 1923.<br />

Odinot<br />

B – Localisation des pertes<br />

Six pertes ont été repérées avant de<br />

subir les injections d’uranine (Fig. 2). Deux<br />

sur la rive gauche : gouffres <strong>du</strong> Platane et<br />

de AÏn Ouarka, deux sur la rive droite :<br />

gouffres de Zeiat et <strong>du</strong> moulin, ainsi que<br />

deux pertes dans le lit filtrant à l’amont et<br />

l’aval <strong>du</strong> barrage initial dit aussi barrage de<br />

la Cie des Eaux <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>.<br />

LES PREMIERS TRAÇAGES<br />

À L’URANINE AU LIBAN<br />

16 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 17<br />

Fig. 1<br />

Fig. 2


BASSIN SUPÉRIEUR<br />

lit/sec m3 /24 h lit/sec m3 /24h.<br />

Nabaa el Assal canal supérieur de Mazraat 50 4320 Nabaa el Assal 200mètres aval confluent 449 38800<br />

À la source lit torrentiel 585 50544<br />

Total à la source 635 54864<br />

Fig. 3<br />

Nabaa el Laban canal de Mazraat 40 3456 Nahr el Salib<br />

lit torrentiel 14 1200 sous Harajel barrage maçonné 504 43545<br />

total de la source 54 4656 sous Maïroûba aval Chébli 250 21600<br />

Nabaa el Mghara à la perte 59 510 Nabaa el Qana 37 320 0<br />

a la résurgence 281 24260<br />

BASSIN INFÉRIEUR<br />

Nahr el Kelb résurgence Jiita 17 1000<br />

Soit un total de 191.435 m3/jour <strong>du</strong> bassin supérieur pour 171.000 m3/jour à la résurgence <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kelb.<br />

C – Les sources principales se déversant dans le<br />

Nahr es Salib (Fig. 3)<br />

Par ordre d’importance: Nabaa el Laban, Nabaa el<br />

Assal, Nabaa el Mghara, Nabaa el Qana, Nabaa el Hadid.<br />

D – Les Jaugeages<br />

Vingt trois jaugeages ont été effectués dans les<br />

bassins supérieurs et inférieurs des pertes présumées <strong>du</strong><br />

Nahr es Salib. Nous n’en retiendrons que sept, résumant<br />

l’ensemble de ces mesures empruntées aux résultats de la<br />

mission Odinot/Troccaz (Fig. 4).<br />

Il nous semble intéressant par ailleurs de relever<br />

une observation concernant les eaux de Nabaa el Laban<br />

faite lors de la reconnaissance des lieux. (Extrait <strong>du</strong><br />

compte-ren<strong>du</strong> de monsieur Patras, gardien <strong>du</strong> barrage de la<br />

Cie des Eaux de Beyrouth).<br />

Nabaa el Laban offre la particularité d’être<br />

la source la plus importante de cette région pendant la<br />

saison des pluies à partir de Janvier et jusque vers le<br />

15 août. A cette dernière date, la quantité d’eau diminue<br />

brusquement. Il paraît que cette baisse (observée à la<br />

source en 1923) de 1.5m au moins en une nuit) serait très<br />

régulièrement observée dans une période de 3 jours autour<br />

<strong>du</strong> 15 août et même, tomberait invariablement le 15, 16<br />

et 17 de ce mois; Le fait est assez curieux et mérite d’être<br />

étudié. Il peut s’expliquer facilement par l’existence d’un<br />

siphon ou d’un système de plusieurs siphons dont l’un se<br />

désamorcerait à cette époque de l’année. Ceci implique<br />

soit une très grande régularité annuelle dans le régime de<br />

précipitations atmosphériques soit l’existence d’une masse<br />

d’eau dont le niveau descendrait mathématiquement à la<br />

même cote au même moment de l’année.<br />

Hypothèse<br />

La seconde supposition se rapporte aux résultats<br />

d’une plongée et d’une topographie exécutée par C.<br />

Locatelli et J-J Bolanz (voir aussi <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate N°7-<br />

8/1992-1993, pp.18-20).<br />

Deux plongées ont eu lieu dans la source de Nabaa<br />

el Laban. La première le 11/08/1992 et la seconde le<br />

lendemain 12. La visibilité était meilleure que la veille. Au<br />

regard <strong>du</strong> plan et de la coupe présentée en trois dimensions<br />

la présence de galeries latérales décrites par J-J Bolanz<br />

(pré-rapport d’expédition - Fédération Française de<br />

<strong>Spéléo</strong>logie – Mission <strong>Liban</strong> 92) nous incite à croire à la<br />

présence de siphons latéraux désamorcés pour l’instant à<br />

savoir (Fig. 5) :<br />

… je tire 42 mètres dans la galerie ovale aperçue hier.<br />

Au début elle est ovale, 2m par 1, mais rapidement elle<br />

diminue de taille pour atteindre 1m par 0,80. Le passage<br />

est loin d’être aisé, car le rocher est hérissé d’aspérités<br />

qui vous accrochent partout. De plus, le faible courant<br />

n’est pas suffisant pour évacuer la touille provoquée par<br />

les bulles …(Intéressante observation de ce réseau à faible<br />

courant alors que J-J Bolanz indiquait plus haut …). C’est<br />

bien 18h00 quand nous arrivons à la source. La visibilité<br />

n’est que de trois mètres et le courant aussi fort que la<br />

veille …<br />

E – La coloration<br />

Il serait fastidieux de décrire les différentes étapes<br />

qui ont marqué la coloration. Le rapport manuscrit de 13<br />

pages en écriture serrée de Mr. Claris, professeur de chimie<br />

à l’Ecole Française d’Ingénieurs de Beyrouth et chargé<br />

de l’opération ‘’coloration’’ en décrit minutieusement<br />

les infimes détails, y compris celle de l’analyse de 221<br />

échantillons d’eau prélevés à la grotte de Jiita. Sachons<br />

toutefois que de nombreux observateurs témoins de la<br />

démarche étaient présents sur les lieux. Ils étaient partagés<br />

en deux équipes comprenant une commission d’amont et<br />

une d’aval. La commission d’amont supervisait l’injection<br />

d’uranine, celle d’aval étant chargée de vérifier l’arrivée <strong>du</strong><br />

colorant et <strong>du</strong> prélèvement des échantillons.<br />

Le tableau ci-joint résume les horaires des<br />

opérations d’injection faites entre le barrage de la<br />

Compagnie et le gouffre de Aïn Ourka, distant d’environ<br />

300 mètres (Fig.4).<br />

Réapparition de la coloration à la résurgence de la<br />

grotte de Jiita<br />

Les eaux de Jiita sont apparues colorées à l’œil nu,<br />

à partir <strong>du</strong> lundi 10 septembre à 2 heures <strong>du</strong> matin. La<br />

coloration a été très caractéristique, les lundi 10 septembre,<br />

mardi 11 septembre, mercredi 12 septembre pour diminuer<br />

progressivement et ne plus être visible le mercredi 19<br />

septembre (Fig. 6).<br />

L’existence de la communication entre les<br />

eaux <strong>du</strong> Nahr es Salib et la grotte de Jiita est ainsi<br />

irréfutablement prouvée.<br />

Il y aurait lieu suite à cette expérience de chercher<br />

à déterminer le volume des eaux <strong>du</strong> Nahr es Salib arrivant<br />

à Jiita. La quantité totale d’uranine versée dans le Nahr es<br />

Salib de 43kg600 est-elle réapparue en totalité à la grotte?<br />

Les responsables avancent le chiffre de 75%. Et pourtant<br />

s’il faut recouper les témoignages de l’époque, il y aurait<br />

eu des pertes relativement importantes de colorant. A<br />

savoir :<br />

1 – Que l’uranine employée était de même<br />

provenance, mais une partie avait été importée<br />

antérieurement à la guerre de 1914-18 et l’autre<br />

dernièrement. 24kg datant <strong>du</strong> stock de 1913 se<br />

présentaient compact et difficiles à dissoudre. Il est permis<br />

de croire que l’uranine pouvait ne pas être homogène et<br />

qu’une partie n’aurait pas été dissoute, mais probablement<br />

précipitée. La partie nouvellement importée était<br />

enveloppée dans des boîtes en fer blanc, hermétiquement<br />

clauses, chaque boîte contenant 0,200 gr. Lors des<br />

LES PREMIERS TRAÇAGES<br />

À L’URANINE AU LIBAN<br />

colorations il a été constaté que l’uranine nouvelle était<br />

facilement dissoute dans l’eau et qu’il n’en était pas de<br />

même de l’ancienne que, retirée en blocs, il fallait ré<strong>du</strong>ire<br />

en poudre.<br />

2 - Une boîte de 200 grs renversée a été per<strong>du</strong>e<br />

au gouffre <strong>du</strong> Moulin, à laquelle il faut ajouter ce qui est<br />

resté en particulier dans les boîtes en carton où l’uranine<br />

n’était pas en poudre et qu’il a été impossible d’extraire<br />

entièrement. Il y a eu certainement des pertes d’uranine<br />

provenant de ces diverses manipulation. L’uranine<br />

nouvelle moussait facilement, l’uranine ancienne presque<br />

pas. Lors des colorations quelle que soit l’uranine, il<br />

semblait que la coloration était identique, mais comme la<br />

concentration était très chargée, il était difficile d’apprécier<br />

à l’œil une différence.<br />

18 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 19<br />

Fig. 4<br />

Fig. 5<br />

Fig. 6


3 – Ne peut-on craindre vu les faits<br />

exposés que les résultats trouvés ne fussent<br />

légèrement affaiblis par la supposition que<br />

l’uranine ancienne avait les mêmes propriétés<br />

que celle contenue dans les boîtes nouvelles ?<br />

4 – Les canaux d’irrigations situés<br />

entre Zeiat et le canal de Reyfoun sont restés<br />

ouverts pendant la <strong>du</strong>rée des opérations (canal<br />

<strong>du</strong> Moulin, canal amont <strong>du</strong> Platane, canal<br />

Chébli). L’eau qui s’est répan<strong>du</strong>e dans ces<br />

terrains qui est restée stagnante et colorée<br />

jusqu’au 22 septembre, laisserait croire<br />

que la matière colorante est descen<strong>du</strong>e très<br />

lentement à travers les terrains. Une partie<br />

s’est évaporée et d’autres a été dissoute<br />

ou fixée par les plantes et les racines. Ici<br />

se trouve donc une perte impossible à<br />

évaluer. Ce qui est à retenir, car étant donné<br />

l’abaissement progressif de l’uranine au débit<br />

(voir diagramme de restitution, Fig. 6), la<br />

courbe aurait dû atteindre l’axe X plus tard<br />

que le point fixé. Autre argument concernait<br />

le débit <strong>du</strong> Nahr es Salib. La Compagnie<br />

arguait que les 4, 5, 6 septembre 1923, un<br />

Shlouk (vent chaud) d’une rare intensité<br />

sévissait au <strong>Liban</strong>. Il aurait augmenté<br />

considérablement l’évaporation, concentrant<br />

le colorant dans certaines parties où les eaux<br />

étaient stagnantes, faussant le calcul des<br />

pertes.<br />

Messieurs Odinot et Troccaz, ont<br />

effectué des mesures exactes <strong>du</strong> débit des<br />

eaux en octobre. Ils ont trouvé en amont <strong>du</strong><br />

barrage 43545m 3 par jour, or un mois plus<br />

tôt, c’est-à-dire vers le 4 septembre celui-ci<br />

devait être selon appréciation de 15% environ<br />

supérieur, soit 50000 m 3 de débit d’eau par<br />

jour.<br />

5 - Les barrages amont et aval<br />

péchaient par leur étanchéité. Il était<br />

nécessaire de réévaluer les pertes d’eau par<br />

infiltration et par conséquent <strong>du</strong> colorant<br />

per<strong>du</strong>.<br />

Quelques observations<br />

– La coloration met environ une<br />

DIZAINE D’HEURES pour franchir les 3 km<br />

qui existent entre le barrage de la Compagnie<br />

des Eaux <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> et le point où les eaux<br />

disparaissent totalement dans le lit de la<br />

rivière (Fig. 7). La côte approximative de ces<br />

points est respectivement 1180 et 1160 mètres<br />

environ, soit une différence d’altitude de 20<br />

mètres.<br />

– D’autre part, la coloration met CENT<br />

TRENTE HEURES environ pour franchir<br />

le trajet souterrain estimé à seize kilomètres<br />

entre le point de coloration (1180m) et où<br />

elles surgissent à Jiita (60m).<br />

Fig. 8<br />

Conclusion<br />

En guise de conclusion, ce texte manuscrit de M. Claris (1923),<br />

(Fig. 8).<br />

Annexe<br />

Cet encadré paru dans le quotidien libanais L’Orient-Le Jour <strong>du</strong> 30<br />

juillet 2008 (signé Victor Fleury) nous informe qu’un vaste programme<br />

d’étude a été lancé en collaboration des organisations italiennes dans le<br />

but de préserver les eaux <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kelb.<br />

En voici de larges extraits :<br />

“Un projet d’étude sur la qualité de l’eau <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kelb a<br />

été présenté dernièrement lors d’un séminaire à l’Université Notre-<br />

Dame de Zouk Mosbeh. Les représentants des principaux partenaires<br />

de cette initiative, le ministre de l’Energie et de l’Eau, le Centre de<br />

recherche de l’eau, de l’environnement et de l’énergie de l’Université<br />

Notre-Dame (WEERC-NDU), la fondation AVSI et l’Institut italien<br />

pour la coopération universitaire (ICU), étaient présents lors de cette<br />

conférence. Cette recherche pourrait permettre à l’avenir la mise en<br />

place d’une politique de préservation efficace des réserves d’eau dans<br />

cette région”.<br />

Et plus loin : A terme, les objectifs principaux de cette recherche<br />

sont multiples. Les scientifiques souhaitent constituer une base de<br />

données sur le versant de Nahr el-Kalb, pour pouvoir développer<br />

ultérieurement des projets d’infrastructure, visant à améliorer la gestion<br />

de l’eau.<br />

Il est regrettable que le <strong>Spéléo</strong>-<strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> n’ait point été<br />

présent à ce séminaire. Il aurait indiqué aux organisateurs de nombreux<br />

éléments concréts.<br />

A titre de rappel:<br />

a - Il avait été démontré dès 1923 qu’une partie des eaux <strong>du</strong> bassin<br />

versant <strong>du</strong> Kesrouan alimentait directement la rivière souterraine de<br />

Jiita, source principale <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kelb (voir l’article intitulé ‘Les<br />

premiers traçage à l’uranine au <strong>Liban</strong>’).<br />

b - La revue libanaise de spéléologie et de karstologie <strong>du</strong> <strong>Spéléo</strong>-<br />

<strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> (<strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate- Nouvelle série - N°3 - 1988 - pp. 3 à<br />

17- B. Hakim, J. Loiselet - G. Srouji - S. Karkabi) décrit précisément<br />

l’aspect spéléologique <strong>du</strong> cours d’eau souterrain, les<br />

traçages réalisés en amont et une carte hydrogéologique <strong>du</strong><br />

bassin versant <strong>du</strong> Nahr el-Kalb établie par le Dr Bahzad<br />

Hakim.<br />

c - La revue <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate N°4 - 1989, pp. 6 à 16<br />

fournie une étude faite sur 150 échantillons d’eau prélevés<br />

de 25 sources <strong>du</strong> Kesrouan sur une période de 9 mois. Ces<br />

échantillons furent soumis à des tests bactériologiques<br />

et physiques par le Professeur Joseph Hatem et M. Fady<br />

Chbatt M.S. Le nombre de sources contaminées s’est élevé<br />

à 84 %.<br />

d -A signaler aussi, qu’une reconnaissance nous a<br />

amené en 2007 sur les lieux de la coloration effectuée en<br />

1923 sur les ordres <strong>du</strong> Général Weygand. Nous avons pu<br />

localiser l’emplacement des pertes <strong>du</strong> Ouadi Bou Roqaa<br />

grâce au croquis N°1 établi par M. Odinot (géologue) et<br />

membre de la commission de la Cie des Eaux de Beyrouth.<br />

Le paysage est aujourd’hui entièrement bouleversé.<br />

De nombreux terrains des rives gauches et droites ont<br />

gagné sur le lit de la rivière.Terrains agricoles, maisons<br />

indivi<strong>du</strong>elles et immeubles ont été construits le long des<br />

berges. Nous avons pu toutefois repérer l’emplacement<br />

des gouffres <strong>du</strong> Moulin et celui <strong>du</strong> Platane. Ce dernier a<br />

été partiellement exploré et non topographié.<br />

Fig. 7<br />

En jaune sur le croquis, l’emplacement des pertes des gouffres <strong>du</strong><br />

Moulin et <strong>du</strong> Platane.<br />

Photo 1<br />

Terrain agricole amputant le cours d’eau.<br />

Des eaux usées se déversent à l’heure actuelle dans<br />

le cours principale de la rivière. Ces eaux se perdent en<br />

des fissures en aval <strong>du</strong> gouffre <strong>du</strong> Platane. Les marres<br />

rési<strong>du</strong>elles, la puanteur et les moustiques y habitent de<br />

concert. Les documents photographiques ci-joints illustrent<br />

cette catastrophe écologique.<br />

En conclusion : de graves problèmes de pollution<br />

apparaissent sur le bassin versant <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kalb.<br />

Photo 2<br />

Constructions en bor<strong>du</strong>re <strong>du</strong> cours d’eau. Les eaux usées coulent à<br />

leurs pieds.<br />

Photo 3<br />

Marre stagnante et eaux usées dans le cours <strong>du</strong> Ouadi Bou Roqaa.<br />

Photo 4<br />

Le gouffre <strong>du</strong> Platane.<br />

20 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 21<br />

Photo 5<br />

L’entrée <strong>du</strong> gouffre.<br />

LES PREMIERS TRAÇAGES<br />

À L’URANINE AU LIBAN


CAVE SURVEY Maïa Sarrouf | maiasarrouf@gmail.com<br />

ةقطنملا يف تلاكشتلا ىلع انعلطي لاقملا اذه<br />

تدمع .اتيعج ةراغم ىف رمحلأا رمملا تامسملا<br />

نافنص ىلإ تلاكشتلا هذه فينصت ىلع ةفلؤملا<br />

.رمحلأاو ضيبلأا ,امهنيب نوللا قراف ىلع ةدمتعم<br />

ROUGE SUR BLANC<br />

Une description des Galeries Rouges de Jiita<br />

Fig. 2<br />

Gours inondés dans la partie amont des Galeries.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

This article presents a general description of the Galeries Rouges’s concretions in Jiîta cave, visited<br />

<strong>du</strong>ring the <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> expeditions in 2007. The concretions are described according to the<br />

author’s vision who divided them into two categories, based on the striking contrast of white and red<br />

color found in the gallery.<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

Cet article présente une description<br />

générale des concrétions dans les Galeries<br />

Rouges de Jiita visitées en 2007, à l’occasion<br />

des expéditions organisées par le <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong><br />

<strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>.<br />

LOCALISATION ET DESCRIPTION<br />

DES GALERIES ROUGES<br />

Les Galeries Rouges se trouvent sur la<br />

rive gauche de la rivière souterraine, à environ<br />

200 mètres en aval <strong>du</strong> siphon terminal. On y<br />

accède par un porche de moyenne dimension<br />

menant à une large salle d’effondrement.<br />

L’appellation des Galeries Rouges (1954)<br />

revient à la présence de concrétions<br />

particulièrement rougeâtres formées de<br />

dépôts d’argile et d’autres minéraux fortement<br />

calcifiés ornant l’ensemble des réseaux. Ces<br />

galeries se développent sur 140 mètres de<br />

long et se partage en deux sections ne se<br />

connectant pas (Fig. 1). La première est de<br />

direction E-O de 60 mètres de longueur, la<br />

seconde est de 80 mètres et son entrée se<br />

caractérise par une grande coulée de calcite<br />

révélant des concrétions riches et variées.<br />

Elle se termine par un large gour inondé. Sa<br />

topographie rejoint la tendance directionnelle<br />

<strong>du</strong> cours d’eau, NE-SO.<br />

A l’entrée des « Galeries Rouges », les<br />

spéléologues se déchaussent avant toute<br />

progression par souci de protection des<br />

fragiles formations calcaires.<br />

Les Galeries comprennent une variété<br />

de concrétions de calcite (stalagmites,<br />

stalactites, colonnes, draperies et coulées)<br />

ainsi que différents types de concrétions<br />

émanant de l’écoulement de l’eau sur le<br />

plancher (gours et micro-gours). Le contraste<br />

Fig. 1<br />

Topographie des Galeries Rouges de Jiita.<br />

qui existe entre ces deux types de concrétions<br />

blanchâtres et rougeâtres caractérise au<br />

mieux le charme de cet espace et a inspiré<br />

le titre de l’article (rouge sur blanc), dont la<br />

suite propose une description des différents<br />

spéléothèmes observés.<br />

CONCRETIONS DES GALERIES ROUGES<br />

Concrétions rougeâtres<br />

Le rouge caractérise par les gours qui<br />

ornent le plancher des couloirs. En amont,<br />

ces bassins naturels sont espacés (Fig. 2) et<br />

atteignent des profondeurs de 20 à 30 cm,<br />

tandis qu’en aval, ils montrent un festonnage<br />

plus régulier, concentré et moins profond<br />

(Fig. 3).<br />

Les plus grands gours (dont le gour<br />

terminal) comprennent des plans d’eau calme<br />

permettant le développement de calcite<br />

flottante (Fig. 4). Cette pellicule, rarement<br />

observée au <strong>Liban</strong>, est fragile et se précipite<br />

au fond de la vasque à la moindre secousse<br />

ou vibration. Les gours moins profonds sont<br />

généralement secs à l’étiage. Ils présentent de<br />

nombreux cristaux de calcite dans leurs parois<br />

internes ainsi que des formations no<strong>du</strong>laires<br />

sous forme de billes d’argile. Les bords<br />

externes de ces gours sont pour la plupart<br />

festonnés de micro gours (Fig. 4 et 5).<br />

Concrétions blanchâtres<br />

Les concrétions de calcite blanches des<br />

22 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 23


Fig. 3<br />

Gours dans la partie aval des Galeries.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Galeries tranchent avec les gours et le plancher stalagmitique de<br />

couleur rouge.<br />

Les draperies (Fig. 6) se développent sur les plafonds ou les<br />

paroisses inclinées et possèdent des dimensions variables de<br />

quelques mètres, atteignant 5 à 6 mètres de longueur.<br />

Les coulées sont assez répan<strong>du</strong>es au sein des Galeries.<br />

La forme la plus commune est celle des cascades (Fig. 7)<br />

retombant sur les gours gorgés d’eau et formant un clair<br />

contraste blanc sur rouge. Elles possèdent des tailles variant de<br />

2 et 5 mètres de long.<br />

Le mondmilch (formations blanchâtres) (Fig. 8), a été<br />

repéré sur la majorité des parois des Galeries surtout dans les<br />

branches comprenant les gours. Etant humides, ces formations<br />

étaient douces et plastiques lors de leur identification.<br />

Fig. 6<br />

Draperie au sein des Galeries.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 4<br />

Calcite flottante et micro-gours sur le bord<br />

externe des gours.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 7<br />

Calcite blanchâtre délicatement « coulée » sur les gours rougeâtres.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

.<br />

Fig. 5<br />

Formations no<strong>du</strong>laires dans le bord interne et micro-gours dans le<br />

bord externe des gours.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Les stalagmites, stalactites et colonnes (Fig. 9, 10 & 11)<br />

sont de loin les plus communément observées et ornent le plafond<br />

et le plancher des Galeries. Certaines stalagmites et colonnes sont<br />

légèrement teintées aux couleurs de l’argile ou d’autres minéraux<br />

et pigments inorganiques.<br />

Des stalactites tubulaires sont de même observées. La<br />

Photo 12 illustre une stalactite tubulaire qui s’est jointe au micro<br />

gour <strong>du</strong> plancher formant une petite colonne d’environ 20 cm<br />

de longueur. Notons de plus, l’observation de stalactites dont<br />

la face externe est couverte de pointes cristallines, facilement<br />

assimilables à de minuscules excentriques et ne dépassant pas 2<br />

cm de long.<br />

Un type particulier de stalagmite est de même noté, celui<br />

des stalagmites d’argile (Fig. 13). Leurs dépôts sont associés aux<br />

Fig. 8<br />

Mondmilch sur les parois des couloirs.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 9<br />

Massif stalagmite montrant à sa base le contraste<br />

blanc sur rouge marqué par le niveau de l’eau.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 10<br />

Stalactite au sein des Galeries.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

changements dans la composition de l’eau d’écoulement.<br />

Leur morphologie est caractérisée par leur forme conique et par<br />

l’existence d’un cratère ou trou central. Au sein des Galeries, elles<br />

ne furent observées que dans les gours et ne possèdent pas plus de<br />

30 à 40 cm de haut, ne dépassant pas la hauteur des ces bassins<br />

étagés.<br />

CONCLUSION<br />

Un diagnostic aussi préliminaire des concrétions des Galeries<br />

Rouges permet de conclure que cette partie de la grotte mérite<br />

une attention particulière, formant une combinaison de tonalité<br />

et de richesse rare à observer. Des études plus approfondies<br />

sont recommandées pour tenter de comprendre la présence et la<br />

séquence de formation des concrétions.<br />

Fig. 12<br />

Petite colonne formée par la jointure d’une stalactite<br />

tubulaire aux micro-gours <strong>du</strong> plancher.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 13<br />

Stalagmite d’argile à cratère central observé au sein des gours.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 11<br />

Remarquable contraste formé par une colonne et des gours.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

RÉFÉRENCE<br />

Auteurs ayant travaillés sur des articles similaires:<br />

Bou Jaoude, I., Karanouh, R., 2002. Identification<br />

of Calcite Speleothems in Mgharet Nabaa el<br />

Shatawie. <strong>Al</strong>-Ouate’Ouate, 12 , 48-57.<br />

Bou Jawdeh, I., Karanouh, R., 2005. Photographic<br />

Documentation of Some Special Speleothems<br />

from Lebanon, <strong>Al</strong>-Ouate’Ouate, 13, 62-71.<br />

RECONNAISSANCE<br />

L’auteur remercie les contributions<br />

techniques, les commentaires et les avis de Sami<br />

Karkabi et de Issam Bou Jaoude.<br />

24 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 25


CAVE SURVEY<br />

Fig. 1<br />

‘The Ballerina’ in Salle Beayno.<br />

(Photo by Issam bou Jaoude)<br />

Elias Labaki | e.labaki@gmail.com<br />

FINAL<br />

NOTES<br />

ON<br />

SALLE<br />

BEAYNO<br />

Samer harb | samaelh@hotmail.com<br />

ريبك ددعب رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا قفار اتيعج ةراغم نم ءزجلا اذه<br />

ام فاشتكا ةداعا ّمت نا دعب ىهتنا لمعلا نكلو .مرصنملا ماعلا يف تلاحرلا نم<br />

.اتيعج ةراغمل يلامجلاا لوطلا ىلا فاضي مقرلا اذهو تارمملا نم م 850 نع ديزي<br />

لاغشلاا هذه تقفار .ةراغملا نم ءزجلا اذهل قيقد روصم عضو يدانلا نوكي كلاذبو<br />

.لاقملا اذه يف بتاكلا اهيلا قرطتي ةقوشم ثادحاو تارماغم<br />

Après sa première visite, la salle Beayno a été réexplorée et retravaillée. Même<br />

si elle ne figurera plus dans nos prochaines sorties, elle laissera toujours dans<br />

notre mémoire tous les souvenirs d’une belle salle, là-haut, en passant par le<br />

boulevard SCL de Jiita.<br />

Fig. 2<br />

The large tunnel in Salle Beayno.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Joude)<br />

Fig. 3<br />

Mud stains on crystal white calcite a result of careless explorers.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

Salle Beayno…<br />

For the last year this name accompanied us in each and<br />

every Jiita trip, but now it’s over (Fig. 1, 2 and 3).<br />

The result: eight hundred and fifty-five meters of extra<br />

cave development to be added to the total development of Jiita cave<br />

with a fourth connection to the main Jiita axis; a new and more<br />

accurate survey is now finally completed (Fig. 4 and 5); and above<br />

all, lots and lots of adventures, stories and memories…<br />

We’re definitely going to miss the delightful climb up left<br />

after the SCL camp site, the opposition climb following that and<br />

finally the caving ladder, leading to a traverse line which leads in<br />

turn to a crawl, then a big chamber and a crawl and a… the point is<br />

that we spent memorable moments in gallery Beayno’s tunnels and<br />

chambers.<br />

Come to think of it, it was not long ago that we first<br />

decided to re-explore this section of our beloved mother of all<br />

caves, Jiita. The first trip to Salle Beayno took place in June of last<br />

year.<br />

During that outing, a small group of SCL cavers pointed<br />

out the discrepancies between the published map and the actual<br />

structure of the cave (Labaki and Harb, 2008).<br />

Salle Beayno had – again – its fair share of allotted time<br />

<strong>du</strong>ring the infamous three-day expedition trip in October 2007.<br />

The team spent a whole day exploring and surveying the galleries,<br />

except for the sinkholes which required dedicated equipment. These<br />

drops were later fully explored and drawn <strong>du</strong>ring a third trip.<br />

Two question marks remained on the survey map. Now,<br />

is it just me or are they really provoking…. those small question<br />

marks left behind, here and there on cave surveys?<br />

So we packed our bits and pieces in June 2008 and<br />

journeyed in once again. The remaining two sinkholes were finally<br />

explored; they turned out to lead into a common chamber and<br />

from that chamber a second sinkhole had to be rigged. The rigging<br />

was fast, the array of stalagmites, stalactites, columns and other<br />

formations made our rigging rather easy. The natural choice was to<br />

rig around these.<br />

To rig ‘naturally’ whenever possible, as much as possible,<br />

saves the burden of using nuts and bolts on the delicate cave<br />

environment, an environment that already bore a lot of scars from<br />

previous expeditions. An environment, that in some places, used<br />

to be as white as snow, as beautiful as heaven, and now most of its<br />

beauty is covered by mud (Fig. 3). Ethics in speleology should be<br />

reminded, taught and stressed again and again.<br />

That second sinkhole guided us to the top of the giant<br />

‘coulee’ between the camp of SCL and the climb that leads to Salle<br />

Beayno. The view from up there was impressive, just like sitting<br />

on a balcony on top of a valley of wonders, with roaring water and<br />

twinkling stars; steep, intimidating edges framing the spectacle<br />

from the ceiling to the floor... then, back to caving reality… we<br />

were getting cold and had to leave.<br />

One last passage was left unexplored though. It was one<br />

of those tight tunnels that only Rena K. can do, or so we decided…<br />

she loves them really!<br />

She did enter and Hadi K. followed.<br />

She found herself in a new, virgin tunnel but then she<br />

let go and suggested we leave it for future generations and we all<br />

agreed. We will certainly not tell them that it’s filled with that sticky<br />

thick heavy mud. Good luck to them.<br />

Leaving Salle Beayno that day, we knew, deep inside,<br />

that the work was over for now and we will probably never see this<br />

place again (Fig. 6 and 7). But at least the next time we pass by the<br />

SCL camp in Jiita, when someone points to a climb or an opening<br />

on top of a massive ‘coulee’… we know what’s up there…<br />

26 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 27


Fig. 4<br />

The survey of Salle Beayno showing the last section that was discovered which is the fourth link between the gallery and the main Jiita cave axis.<br />

(m)<br />

40<br />

35<br />

30<br />

25<br />

20<br />

15<br />

10<br />

5<br />

0<br />

(N)<br />

A<br />

Fig. 5<br />

Cross section of Salle Beayno.<br />

Main Jiita Tunnel<br />

black level<br />

red level<br />

brown level<br />

B<br />

green level<br />

(S)<br />

Fig. 6<br />

A general view of Salle Beayno. (Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

Fig. 7<br />

The general view of a tunnel in the Big Room of Salle Beayno. (Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

28 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 29


CAVE SURVEY<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude | iboujaoude@gmail.com<br />

Wassim hamdan | whamdan@earthtimegroup.com<br />

يف نيروغتسملا نم ددع ماق اهفاشتكا خيرات نم ةنس 45 دعب<br />

فاشتكا ةداعاب 2005 ةنس يف رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبلا يدانلا<br />

ةعاقلا ىمست اتيعج ةراغم طسو يف ةقطنم طيطختو ريوصتو<br />

خيراتل قرطتت ةلاقملا هذه .عصانلا اهضايبل انميت ءاضيبلا<br />

ةداعا نيحل 2005 ةنس ىلا 1960 ةنس ةقطنملا هذه فاشتكا<br />

.نيخيراتلا نيذه نيب ام تلاواحملا عيمج لصفتو اهفاشتكا<br />

45 ans après sa découverte, la Salle Blanche a été de nouveau accédée par des<br />

spéléologues en 2005 . Cette galerie d’un blanc pur extraordinaire, avec son grand<br />

nombre de formations exceptionnelles, de larges cônes de tailles différentes (qui<br />

n’ont pas été documentés auparavant au <strong>Liban</strong>) a été revisitée, topographiée<br />

et photographiée. Cet article reflètera l’histoire de la Salle Blanche depuis sa<br />

découverte en 1960 jusqu’à sa redécouverte en l’an 2005; incluant les tentatives<br />

intermédiaires infructueuses.<br />

THE<br />

SALLE BLANCHE<br />

EXPEDITION<br />

The Salle Blanche (White Gallery) was a<br />

legend of Lebanese speleology until its rediscovery in<br />

2005.<br />

It was discovered in the early 60’s <strong>du</strong>ring the<br />

Jiita cave expeditions con<strong>du</strong>cted by SCL. Ever since<br />

then attempts to access the gallery were unsuccessful<br />

<strong>du</strong>e to a treacherous climb in its approach.<br />

The archives of the Speleo <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> had<br />

no survey of this gallery and the final Jiita cave survey<br />

only showed the location of its entrance. There were<br />

also a few tantalizing photographs taken by Mr. Sami<br />

Karkabi in the 60’s.<br />

After 45 years an expedition in the summer<br />

of 2005 made the breakthrough and Salle Blanche<br />

was once again accessed by cavers. This amazingly<br />

pure white gallery with its large number of special<br />

speleothems, mainly large cave cones of various sizes<br />

(that have not been documented in Lebanon before)<br />

was revisited, mapped and photographed (Fig. 1).<br />

This article will glance into the history<br />

of Salle Blanche, from its discovery in the 1960<br />

until its rediscovery in the year 2005; including the<br />

unsuccessful attempts inbetween.<br />

ATTEMPTS To REACH SALLE BLANCHE<br />

The Salle Blanche was discovered by Mr.<br />

Sami Karkabi and his mapping crew in early 1962 as<br />

they were surveying the main axis passage of Jiita cave<br />

using the theodolite.<br />

When they got to the Chaos Gallery they<br />

wanted to measure the height of the ceiling, which<br />

appeared very high to them. So they assembled a long<br />

stick with a kerosene lamp and raised it to light the<br />

roof. This is how they came to define the 80 m height of<br />

the ceiling.<br />

During this endeavor and at the height of<br />

approximately 70m, they noticed an opening on the<br />

right side close to the beginning of the Chaos Gallery.<br />

This opening was the entrance of the gallery to be<br />

named Salle Blanche (Personal Communication with<br />

Sami Karkabi). During that trip they did not have<br />

time to climb and explore the cavity so they left it for<br />

another expedition.<br />

30 |<br />

Fig. 1<br />

The White Gallery showing cave domes, columns and speleothems.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 31


On September 12, 1963 Sami Karkabi<br />

accompanied by Raymond Khawam, Robert Kasparian<br />

and Emile Ghanem free climbed the 70 m with very<br />

limited equipment, discovered the gallery and named it the<br />

Salle Blanche <strong>du</strong>e to its marvelous and pure white surfaces<br />

(Personal Communication with Sami Karkabi).<br />

Sami Karkabi took a dozen of pictures, two of<br />

which are present in the <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat’Oaute magazine issue<br />

number one published year 1986. A number of other<br />

pictures are also present in the archives of Sami Karkabi<br />

(Fig. 2 and 4).<br />

Even though the location of the Salle Blanche<br />

is clearly shown on the Jiita cave map drawn in the year<br />

1962 (Fig. 5), it was not mapped for 45 years and attempts<br />

to reach it failed until 2005.<br />

After the Lebanese civil war ended in 1990 SCL<br />

members were reminded by Sami Karkabi of the presence<br />

of the gallery, however no attempts were made to access it<br />

<strong>du</strong>ring that period until 2003 when an attempt was made to<br />

reach the gallery. It was unfortunately unsuccessful <strong>du</strong>e to<br />

shortage of equipment.<br />

That attempt saw seven members of SCL access<br />

Jiita cave from its lower entrance. This meant working<br />

their way against the water current for 3 km where the<br />

Salle Blanche was located. The trip upstream was difficult<br />

as the water current was strong. One of the dinghies got a<br />

puncture and after about 4 hours the team finally reached<br />

the Salle <strong>du</strong> Domes. They ascended a 45 degrees slope and<br />

rigged a rope at about 60m up on a large white concretion.<br />

At this level the mud traverse was found but it<br />

was dangerous to continue without any aid. However, one<br />

of the team members made his way across and climbed up<br />

10m and reached the entrance. Obviously the location of<br />

the Salle Blanche and its possible course were located on<br />

this trip but it was a risky situation and the exploration and<br />

mapping of this gallery was left for another trip.<br />

Fig. 2<br />

The cavers who first entered the Salle Blanche.<br />

(Photo by Sami Karkabi)<br />

Fig. 3<br />

The cavers of the 2005 Salle Blanche Expedition.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Fig. 5<br />

The survey of Salle Blanche.<br />

EXTRACT FRoM TRIP REPoRT<br />

BY ISSAM BoU JAoUDE:<br />

At the terminal siphon we wore our<br />

wet suits and began the 6 hour trek to<br />

reach the 1951 camp site.<br />

A small incident delayed us further<br />

<strong>du</strong>ring the first 100 m of the wet section.<br />

One of the group members blew his inner<br />

tube and according to him managed to<br />

dislocate his shoulder. However, after a<br />

break of few minutes all was back to normal<br />

and we were on our way again. Stress builds<br />

up at the early stages of the expedition<br />

and one must be careful.<br />

This section of the cave before<br />

the allocated camp site is mostly a wet<br />

section interrupted by short dry walk-able<br />

portages, mostly walking on rocks in the<br />

shallow depth of the water ways.<br />

Two short rope sections were required<br />

before reaching the camp site at 5:30pm<br />

the same day. The first rope is located<br />

before passage Zoughbi and the other close<br />

to Palais des Milles et une Nuit.<br />

Located almost in the center of the<br />

cave, the camp site was chosen in a dry<br />

spot at the end of the huge gallery called<br />

the Chaos Gallery. Its name is quite<br />

indicative for it is large and one can<br />

easily get lost there. In the middle of<br />

Salle <strong>du</strong> Domes, 20 minutes before reaching<br />

the camp site, a muddy slippery 30mdecent<br />

was encountered. At this location<br />

and after 8 hours of nonstop activities,<br />

exhaust and fatigue can easily promote<br />

2005 SALLE BLANCHE EXPEDITIoN<br />

The trip was sche<strong>du</strong>led to start on the 5<br />

Fig. 6<br />

Map showing the location of the Salle Blanche on the Jiita Cave map.<br />

32 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 33<br />

th of<br />

August. The plan was to enter the cave by descending<br />

into the Daraya tunnel at 7:00 am. Delays in caving trips<br />

are always expected and after approximately 2 hours we<br />

started our descent into the tunnel at 9:15am.<br />

Daraya’s tunnel is a man made tunnel measuring<br />

approximately 600m, descending at a slope of 45 degrees<br />

from the northern side of the valley of Nahr el Kalib<br />

to the terminal siphon of the cave. The tunnel can be<br />

accessed through a meandering road that descends from<br />

the Ballouneh village on top of the mountain to nearly<br />

the river level. The tunnel was a government project<br />

made primarily for the exploitation of the underground<br />

water that emerges form that terminal siphon.rily for the<br />

exploitation of the underground water that emerges from<br />

the terminal siphon.<br />

To meet our objective, the plan was to spend the<br />

night inside the cave and then exit on the 6th Fig. 4<br />

of August,<br />

The entrance of the Salle Blanche photographed from the inside to outside.<br />

Inset is the same location from the first exploration in the 60’s.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

making the total <strong>du</strong>ration of the trip around 36 hours.<br />

THE SALLE BLANCHE<br />

EXPEDITION


lack of concentration while descending this<br />

particular slope.<br />

At the camp site tasks that were<br />

assigned previously were carried out, with<br />

some members collecting water and purifying<br />

it and others cooking dinner.<br />

The next day we woke up at 7:00 am;<br />

five of us were assigned the task of trying<br />

to reach the Salle Blanche while the other<br />

two volunteered to remain at the camp site.<br />

The cliff where the Salle Blanche is located<br />

(70m above the level of the river) is<br />

fifteen minutes from the camp site towards<br />

the west.<br />

The climb has already started. A rope<br />

was rigged at a muddy steep slope from a<br />

previous expedition. At an elevation of 60<br />

meters the tricky 30m horizontal slippery<br />

traverse had to be rigged. Rena belayed<br />

me and I planted 5 bolts to complete the<br />

traverse. With a final vertical climb of<br />

15m I reached the entrance of the gallery<br />

at around 11:30am. I called on everyone<br />

to follow. Even the guys at the camp were<br />

called upon by Johnny to join in the<br />

exploration, topography and photography of<br />

this gallery. Dirty cloths and boots were<br />

removed at the entrance in order to protect<br />

the fragile white environment in Salle<br />

Blanche (Fig. 3 and 4).<br />

We regrouped at 3:00 pm in the camp<br />

site, ate a small snack, packed our gear<br />

in dry bags, wore our neoprene, and headed<br />

towards the exit at around 4:30 pm.<br />

The last kilometer of the cave is<br />

a river passage (including the show cave<br />

section); therefore, it was necessary to<br />

make use of scuba diving fins to aid in<br />

swimming this section.<br />

At around 8:30 pm on the 6 th of August<br />

we exited the cave.<br />

SALLE BLANCHE<br />

The Salle Blanch represents a large dry L-shaped<br />

gallery that extends in the E-W direction. It measures more<br />

than 2250 m 2 (Fig. 5 and 6).<br />

The entrance of Salle Blanche is rectangular in<br />

shape (Fig. 7) with a pool of water acting as a gate that<br />

separates the outer section which is a balcony overlooking<br />

the main gallery of Salles <strong>du</strong> Domes.<br />

The walls, floor and roof of this gallery are all<br />

decorated with pure white calcite speleothems. The<br />

calcite is in the form of stalactites, stalagmites, war-club<br />

bulbous stalactites, columns, flow stones, rafts, popcorn,<br />

and moonmilk. <strong>Al</strong>l of those speleothems in the gallery<br />

are purely white in color from which the name “Salle<br />

Blanche” was derived.<br />

After passing the entrance (Fig. 7) there is a<br />

descent into a dry pool with white calcite covering the<br />

floor. Moonmilk covers this calcite and it is sometimes<br />

so thick that it forms a soft spongy-like feeling under the<br />

feet. Large columns with diameters of more than 3 m are<br />

present (Fig. 8). The ceiling of this gallery is filled with<br />

white stalactites and soda straws.<br />

Several bat skeletons were discovered in the<br />

southern end of Salle Blanche (Fig. 5). These skeletons<br />

were covered with a few millimeters of calcite coating.<br />

At the end of this gallery war club like bulbous<br />

stalactites dangle from the roof. It is believed that these<br />

are features that form under water in cave pools. This<br />

is a clear indication that this gallery was under water<br />

for an extended period of time and later dried out <strong>du</strong>e<br />

to unknown reasons. However, some small water-filled<br />

pools of various sizes are still present. The most important<br />

feature in this gallery is the large number of cave cones<br />

and tower cones scattered on the floor (Fig. 1). These vary<br />

in height and diameter, up to 2m and 1m, respectively.<br />

Cave cones of that size and number have never been<br />

documented in Lebanon before.<br />

Most of the speleothems in this gallery are<br />

decorated with coralloids and covered with moonmilk<br />

(Fig. 8).<br />

Salle Blanche proved rewarding in terms of its<br />

scientific value and beauty. We cannot but end this article<br />

by pointing out that care should be taken while visiting<br />

this gallery. It is important that cavers remove their caving<br />

shoes and their muddy gear before entering into this fragile<br />

environment.<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Ab<strong>du</strong>l Nour, H. and Kallab, O., <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate 5 (New<br />

Series),1986. Bulletin <strong>du</strong> <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>. pp.12.<br />

Fig. 7<br />

A general view of Salle Blanche from the entrance showing one of the columns to the left.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Fig. 8<br />

A general view of Salle Blanche showing large columns.<br />

34 | (Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 35


SPELEoThEMS<br />

* Fadi h. Nader |<br />

Sophie Verheyden |<br />

FIRST GEOCHEMICAL<br />

STUDY OF<br />

STALAGMITES<br />

FROM THE<br />

JIITA CAVE<br />

Abstract<br />

In a previous contribution, Nader et al. (2007)<br />

presented and discussed absolute-dated oxygen and<br />

carbon isotopic profiles from a Holocene stalagmite from<br />

the Jiita cave (Lebanon). This contribution has two main<br />

objectives: (1) to compare the previous oxygen and carbon<br />

isotopic profiles to the variations in crystallographic habit,<br />

stalagmite diameter and growth rate; and (2) to compare<br />

data of the Jiita cave speleothem with other speleothems<br />

and other proxies (pollen, lake sediments,…) in the<br />

Levant area, and provide additional information about the<br />

Holocene climate evolution in Lebanon. Based on the good<br />

correlation between the morphological, crystallographic<br />

and geochemical parameters in the stalagmite and the<br />

correspondence with other stalagmites form central and<br />

northern Israel, we relate high δ 18 O and δ 13 C values to drier<br />

conditions. Between 6.5 and 5.8 ka an increase in isotopic<br />

values, a decrease in growth rate and stalagmite diameter<br />

suggests a transition from wet conditions in the early<br />

Holocene towards drier conditions in the mid-Holocene.<br />

Keywords:<br />

Speleothems, oxygen isotopes, Holocene, Jeita, Lebanon,<br />

paleoclimate.<br />

Department of Geology, American University of Beirut,<br />

PO Box: 11-0236/2010 Beirut – Lebanon<br />

*Corresponding author (Present Address): F. H. Nader, Sedimentology-Stratigraphy<br />

Department, IFP, 1 & 4 Av. de Bois-Préau, 92852 Rueil-Malmaison Cedex – France,<br />

Tel : +33-1-47527457, Fax : +33-1-47527126, fadi-henri.nader@ifp.fr.<br />

Université Libre de Bruxelles, Département des Sciences de la Terre et de l’Environnement (DSTE), Avenue<br />

F.D. Roosevelt 50, 1050 Brussels, Belgium & National Fund for Scientific Research (FNRS) Belgium.<br />

Intro<strong>du</strong>ction<br />

The Levantine region (Lebanon, Israel/Palestine,<br />

Syria, and Jordan; Fig. 1) witnessed important Glacial<br />

- Interglacial (G-IG) climate changes as well as a shift<br />

of varying climate belts (Robinson et al., 2006). This<br />

region currently lies very close to the arid/semi-arid<br />

boundary and has a long history of human settlement<br />

and habitation (at least the last 5,000 years). Hence, the<br />

Levant is believed to be an ideal region for the study of<br />

climate and societal changes.<br />

Previously constructed δ 18 O and δ 13 C curves from<br />

Israel/Palestine – e.g. Soreq, West Jerusalem and Peqiin<br />

caves – all show similarities for the last ~250,000 years,<br />

with changes in δ 18 O and δ 13 C corresponding to changes<br />

in precipitation and soil activity, respectively, and<br />

therefore demonstrated the high potential of speleothems<br />

for regional paleoclimate reconstruction (Bar-Matthews<br />

et al., 1997, 1999, 2003; Frumkin et al., 2000). They<br />

provided evidence for rapid and large climatic changes<br />

<strong>du</strong>ring the last Glacial-Interglacial cycle.<br />

This paper attempts to reconstruct the Holocene<br />

paleoclimatic and environmental evolution of Lebanon,<br />

which is an important step for discussing the regional<br />

climate changes and vegetation dynamics in that region<br />

in order to evaluate climatic predictive approaches for<br />

the future. Furthermore, the particularity of Lebanon<br />

with respect to ancient human settlements and trades<br />

makes this study an attractive approach for further<br />

multidisciplinary research projects aiming to investigate<br />

the impact of climate on socioeconomic developments<br />

<strong>du</strong>ring the Holocene.<br />

ةحورطملا اتيعج ةراغمل يولعلا قباطلا نم ةدعاصلا نع ةيملعلا ةساردلا<br />

نيجيسكولأل صاوخلا ينحنم نراقي لولاا قشلا .ناقش اهل لاقملا اذه يف<br />

يف تاريغتملاو ,ةدعاصلا رطق يف تاريغتملا عم نوبركلأ ديسكوأ يناث و<br />

ةدعاصلا نع تايطعملا نراقي يناثلا قشلا .ومنلا يف تاريغتملاو ,تايرولبلا<br />

.طسولأا قرشلا ةقطنم يف ىرخا تاسارد نم تامولعم عم اتيعج ةراغم نم<br />

Dans cet article, Nader F. et Verheyden S. ont deux objectifs:<br />

(1) Comparer les profils précédents d’oxygène et de carbone isotopique aux<br />

variations cristallographiques, le diamètre des stalagmites ainsi que leur rythme<br />

de développement; et (2) comparer les données des formations de la grotte de<br />

Jiita avec des formations et des données (pollen, sédiments de lacs, ...) dans<br />

la région <strong>du</strong> Levant.<br />

Fig. 1. A simplified topographic map of Lebanon showing the main physiographic units (Mounts Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, and the Bekaa Plain) – the inset map shows<br />

the location of Lebanon and the Levant (striped area) in the Middle East. B. Simplified precipitation map of Lebanon – from UNDP (1970). The position of the Jiita cave is<br />

indicated with an arrow on both maps.<br />

Fig. 2. A geological map of the Jiita region (western flank of central Mount-Leban) showing the cave underground development (Dubertret, 1955; Karkabi, 1990). B & C. Crosssections<br />

intercepting the Jiita cave and displaying the relationship of the cave development and the various geological aspects (e.g. western Lebanon flexure, overburden<br />

rocks; Nader et al., 2003).<br />

36 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 37


Fig. 3. A. Topographic survey of the Upper showcave (Galerie Supérieure) modified<br />

from Karkabi (1990), showing the location of the sampled stalagmite JeG-Stm-1. B.<br />

Composite cross-section showing the location of JeG-Stm-1.<br />

Climatological settings<br />

The Lebanese territories cover the central-eastern<br />

coastline of the Mediterranean Sea, between latitudes<br />

32°34’N and 34°41’N (Fig. 1A). It is characterized<br />

by a Mediterranean climate close to the arid/semi-arid<br />

climate boundary (in Israel/Palestine). The average annual<br />

precipitation rate at the Jiita cave site today is around<br />

1000mm (Fig. 1B; UNDP, 1970). The climate is seasonal,<br />

with rainy winters (between November and February) and<br />

dry, relatively hot summers (usually the period from May<br />

to October).<br />

Location<br />

The Jiita cave (Fig. 1) is the longest and most wellknown<br />

cave in Lebanon (Nader, 2004). It is located within<br />

the western flank of central Mount Lebanon (Fig. 1A, B).<br />

The natural entrance of the cave is situated at about 100m<br />

above sea-level (N32°56.616’; E035°38.516’), ~5km East<br />

of the Mediterranean coastline and ~15km North of Beirut<br />

City (Capital of Lebanon; Fig 1A, B). The cave system is<br />

entirely developed in Middle Jurassic grayish fossiliferous<br />

limestone rocks (the Nahr Ibrahim Member; Fig. 2A,<br />

B, C), a part of the Kesrouane Formation, which has an<br />

average stratigraphic thickness of 1000 m (Dubertret,<br />

1975; Walley, 2001, Nader et al., 2004).<br />

Since the 1950s, a part of this cave had been<br />

Fig. 4. Cut face of the JeG-Stm-1 and a sketch showing the U/<br />

Th dating values (from Nader et al., 2007) – rectangle shows the<br />

location of Figure 5.<br />

Fig. 5. Photomicrograph showing the ‘wings’ pattern at the sides of<br />

the stalagmite (location of photo is shown in Figure 4).<br />

transformed into a touristic cave through the efforts<br />

of local cavers and cave scientists. A tunnel was <strong>du</strong>g<br />

making the cave more easily accessible to tourists. The<br />

cave was also subject to various studies mainly related to<br />

hydrogeological aspects, as it hosts a major underground<br />

river with a discharge of about 2.3m 3 /s <strong>du</strong>ring the<br />

recession period (UNDP, 1970). The cave hosts numerous<br />

speleothems in large underground halls, especially in an<br />

upper gallery that is located in the touristic part of the<br />

cave (Fig. 3A). In many places, the ceiling is more than<br />

fifteen meters high (Fig. 3B) and most speleothems are<br />

characterized by a ‘pile d’assiettes’ or dish-stacks type<br />

structure. The stalagmite JeG-stm-1 was retrieved from<br />

the upper gallery of the Jiita touristic cave in October<br />

2005. The stalagmite was collected at ~200 meters from<br />

the entrance (N32°56.620’; E35°38.640’) of the upper<br />

gallery (Fig. 3). The ceiling of the cave at this location<br />

is situated at 16.45 m high, and the thickness of the<br />

overburden rock (mainly micritic limestone) is estimated<br />

to be around 100 m (Fig. 3B). Water dripping from the<br />

high ceiling occurs in the stalagmite site <strong>du</strong>ring winter<br />

and spring seasons, while possible short-term dryness<br />

prevails <strong>du</strong>ring the summer. Cave temperature at the<br />

stalagmite location is 22.0±0.5°C and remains constant<br />

throughout the year.<br />

Petrographic Aspects<br />

The sampled JeG-stm-1 stalagmite part is 121.5<br />

cm long. The inner profile of the stalagmite (Fig. 4)<br />

displays a regular deposition of dense calcite, varying in<br />

colour from dark grey to light yellow-beige. A regular<br />

lamination with very thin layers (


Fig. 7. δ 13 C and δ 18 C profiles (values are in ‰ VPDB) of the JeG-stm-1<br />

stalagmite (Jiita cave, Lebanon). Slightly modified from Nader et al (2007).<br />

and Pequin caves are located in the present-day semiarid<br />

Mediterranean-type climatic regions, all situated at less<br />

than 50 km from the East Mediterranean coast in the<br />

western Mediterranean – facing flanks of their respective<br />

mountain systems. The Jiita cave is at a distance of<br />

115 km from the Peqiin cave, some 240 km from the<br />

West Jerusalem cave and 260 km from the Soreq cave.<br />

The present day similar climate and close geographical<br />

location of the four caves invoke a common isotopic<br />

response to climate and subsequent vegetation changes<br />

(Bar-Matthews et al. 1997, 1999, 2003; Frumkin et al.,<br />

2000). Furthermore, the similarity of the Jiita δ 18 O record<br />

to that of the Soreq cave, and that of the Jiita δ 13 C record to<br />

that of the West Jerusalem cave confirms that the studied<br />

speleothems reflect similar responses to regional climatic<br />

variations. Such climatic changes as invoked from the<br />

Jiita stalagmite isotopic record and compared to the<br />

records from the nearby caves are grouped into three major<br />

time periods.<br />

Period from 11.9 to 10.1 ka:<br />

According to the review of multiple datasets of<br />

Robinson et al. (2006) the Younger Dryas (YD), between<br />

12.7 and 11.5 ka, was a regional event with extremely<br />

arid and cold conditions. The Jiita cave record starts<br />

at 11.9 ±100 (2σ) ka with high δ 18 O values consistent<br />

with higher aridity <strong>du</strong>ring the YD. The Jiita δ 18 O record<br />

begins to decrease at 11.2ka, at the same time compared<br />

to the δ 18 O decrease in Soreq cave speleothems (Fig. 8)<br />

corresponding to the end of the YD and the transition to<br />

more humid conditions of the pre-Boreal (PB) Similar to<br />

the δ 18 O record, the carbon record starts (at the base of the<br />

studied stalagmite) with relatively high values (-9.8‰) in<br />

agreement with a less favourable period for soil activity,<br />

associated with the drier conditions of the YD, however<br />

not dry enough to significantly decrease speleothem<br />

deposition as suggested by a still relatively high growth<br />

rate (1.65 cm/100yrs; Fig. 6) and thick speleothem<br />

diameter (between ten and eighteen centimetres).<br />

Period from 10.0 to 5.8 ka:<br />

During the period 10.0-5.8 ka (Early Holocene),<br />

the Jiita stalagmite displays particular low δ 18 O and δ 13 C<br />

values compared to the rest of the stalagmite. The isotopic<br />

data from the JeG-stm-1 stalagmite indicate that <strong>du</strong>ring<br />

the Holocene, most humid conditions in western Lebanon<br />

occurred between 9.2 and 6.5 ka. This period corresponds<br />

to parts of the stalagmite with particularly high growth<br />

rates (between 1.17 and 2.62 cm/100 yrs; Fig. 6) and in<br />

general the thickest stalagmite diameter giving further<br />

evidence for a high water availability and/or a high CaCO 3<br />

saturation of the depositing water linked with an active<br />

vegetation above the cave. Simultaneously occurs the onset<br />

of clear dish-stacks stalagmite morphology; which needs<br />

a high ceiling (Gams 1981 in Hill and Forti, 1997), but<br />

also a high water supply with an important “splash effect”<br />

and high carbonate supersaturation for the development<br />

of the “wings” (cf. Fig. 5). Only a short part of the<br />

stalagmite around 6.7 ka, displays a slightly lower growth<br />

rate (0.92cm/100 yrs). Since δ 18 O and δ 13 C records are<br />

remarkably stable <strong>du</strong>ring this period, the observed change<br />

in growth rate is believed to have no regional climatic or<br />

environmental cause. It is more probably related to local<br />

changes in the water supply system, as also suggested by<br />

the horizontal shift in growth axis occurring at 6.7 ka (see<br />

Fig. 4).<br />

A warm and wet Early Holocene is evidenced in<br />

several other proxy data (pollen, lake sediments,…) in the<br />

Levantine region. The Early Holocene (9.5-7.0 ka) could<br />

have been the wettest phase of the last 25,000 years across<br />

much of the Levant and Eastern Mediterranean(Robinson<br />

et al.,2006). The same period witnessed higher lake levels<br />

of the Lisan and Dead Sea lakes. The lake level record was<br />

further refined by Migowski et al. (2006), who dated this<br />

period between 10 and 8.6 ka; Fig. 8).<br />

A sudden increase in δ 18 O and δ 13 C values in the<br />

JeG-stm-1 stalagmite suggests a decline from wet to drier<br />

conditions at around 6.0 ka. The transition occurred in<br />

two steps with a progressive decline from 6.5 to 5.9ka<br />

interrupted at 5.9 ka by a short (~100 years) return to<br />

Fig. 8. Correlation charts from various speleothem records and proxies, see text for details<br />

(Bar-Matthews et al., 1997; Frumkin et al., 2000; Migowski et al. 2006; Robinson et al., 2006).<br />

wetter conditions and followed by an equal but rapid<br />

decline in less than a century (Fig. 7). The change to<br />

dry conditions indicated by the δ 18 O and δ 13 C profiles is<br />

supported by the decrease in diameter, the drop in growth<br />

rate (Fig. 6) and a progressive change towards a matt white<br />

porous calcite (Fig. 4).<br />

A wet Early Holocene was also recorded in<br />

speleothems from Oman (Neff et al., 2001; Fleitmann et<br />

al., 2003; 2007), and the probable link with other climate<br />

systems such as the Asian monsoon system and the North<br />

Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) is explained by Staubwasser<br />

and Weiss (2006).<br />

Period from 5.8 to 1.1 ka<br />

The JeG-stm-1 stalagmite displays indications for<br />

dry conditions until the end of stalagmite deposition at 1.1<br />

ka through high δ 18 O and δ 13 C values (Fig. 7) and smaller<br />

stalagmite diameter, as well as changes to a more whitish<br />

porous stalagmite without dish-stacks morphology (Fig. 5).<br />

The Soreq cave record (Bar-Matthews et al., 1997; 1999)<br />

and other terrestrial data such as lake levels, paleosoils and<br />

snail records (Robinson et al., 2006; Fig. 8), suggest wet<br />

FIRST GEOCHEMICAL STUDY OF<br />

STALAGMITES FROM THE JIITA CAVE<br />

conditions for the period from 4.5 to 5 ka, while according<br />

to the JeG-stm1 stalagmite record, a wetter period occurred<br />

only between 3.0 and 4.0 ka (as suggested by a small<br />

decrease in δ 18 O and δ 13 C values). At about 4.0 ka, a brown<br />

layering suggests the occurrence of a flood event often<br />

responsible for the rapid transfer to the cave of impurities<br />

like oxides or clay particles with incorporation in the<br />

stalagmite. The absence of a drastic change in petrography<br />

as well as in δ 18 O and δ 13 C values confirms that the brown<br />

layering is not <strong>du</strong>e to a regional climate event. Instead, a<br />

slight regular decrease in δ 18 O and δ 13 C values indicates<br />

a gra<strong>du</strong>al change towards less dry conditions to 3.0 ka.<br />

The relatively wetter period between 4.0 and 3.0 ka seems<br />

contradictory with the evidences from other proxies for<br />

severe drought <strong>du</strong>ring the so-called 4.2 ka climate event<br />

brought in relation with the decline of the Akkadian empire<br />

(deMenocal, 2001) and several other civilizations of the<br />

In<strong>du</strong>s Valley (Staubwasser and Weiss, 2006). After the 4.2<br />

ka event, entire regions of northern Mesopotamia, Syria<br />

and Palestine were intensively resettled (Staubwasser<br />

and Weiss, 2006), suggesting a return to relatively wetter<br />

conditions in agreement with the indications of JeG-stm-1<br />

40 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 41


in the present study (see above). Between 3.0 and 1.1<br />

ka, soil activity progressively decreased as indicated by<br />

increasing δ 13 C values. δ 18 O values present more variability<br />

and it is therefore less clear if the δ 13 C increase is <strong>du</strong>e to a<br />

progressive dryer climate (in which a δ 18 O increase would<br />

be expected) or if it is to be ascribed to a decrease in soil<br />

activity linked with increasing agriculture and/or grazing.<br />

Conclusions<br />

This contribution emphasises on the importance of<br />

speleothem studies by providing complementary data that<br />

help in understanding the Holocene paleoclimate of the<br />

Levant area. Petrographic and geochemical studies carried<br />

out on the JeG-stm-1 stalagmite (previously dated; 11.1<br />

to 1.1ka) from the Jiita cave, central Mount Lebanon, as<br />

well as regional correlation with speleothem records from<br />

several nearby caves in Israel/Palestine, resulted in the<br />

following conclusions:<br />

1- The wettest period in western central Lebanon<br />

occurred from 9.2 to 6.5 ka.<br />

2-<br />

3-<br />

A two-step transition from wet Early Holocene<br />

to drier Mid-Holocene conditions is observed<br />

between 6.5 and 5.8 ka.<br />

The JeG-stm-1 stalagmite registered a dry Mid-<br />

to Late Holocene until the end of stalagmite<br />

deposition at 1.1 ka, with exception of a<br />

relatively wetter period between 4.0 and 3.0 ka.<br />

Acknowledgements<br />

This research was primarily funded by the Lebanese<br />

National Council for Scientific Research (LNCSR). Dr.<br />

Nabil Haddad, director of MAPAS (operator of Jiita<br />

Grotto showcave), is especially thanked for his continuous<br />

support and generous hospitality throughout the project.<br />

Mr. B. Idriss (AUB) is thanked for field and lab-work.<br />

Mr. M. Ijreiss (AUB) is thanked for technical support.<br />

Mrs. A. Koumaiha & W. Nasr Jad are thanked for graphic<br />

support. Members of the <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> are thanked<br />

for their help <strong>du</strong>ring the fieldwork (inside the cave) and<br />

for providing maps and data concerning the cave. Mr.<br />

Sami Karkabi is acknowledged for fruitful discussion and<br />

guidance.<br />

References<br />

Bar-Matthews, M., Ayalon, A., Kaufman, A., 1997. Late<br />

Quaternary paleoclimate in the eastern Mediterranean<br />

region from stable isotope analysis of speleothems at Soreq<br />

cave, Israel. Quaternary Research 47, 155-168.<br />

Bar-Matthews, M., Ayalon, A., Kaufman, A., Wasserburg,<br />

G. J., 1999. The Eastern Mediterranean paleoclimate as a<br />

reflection of regional events: Soreq cave Israel. Earth and<br />

Planetary Science Letters 166, 85-95.<br />

Bar-Matthews, M., Ayalon, A., Gilmour, M., Matthews,<br />

A., Hawkesworth, C. J., 2003. Sea-land oxygen isotopic<br />

relationships from planctonic foraminifera and speleothems<br />

in the Eastern Mediterranean region and their implication<br />

for palaeorainfall <strong>du</strong>ring interglacial intervals. Geochimica<br />

et Cosmochimica Acta 67(17), 3181-3199.<br />

deMenocal P.B., 2001. Cultural response to climate change<br />

<strong>du</strong>ring the Late Holocene. Science 292, 667-673.<br />

Dubertret, L., 1975. Intro<strong>du</strong>ction à la carte géologique au<br />

1/50000 <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>. Notes et Mémoires sur le Moyen-Orient<br />

23, 345-403.<br />

Fleitmann D., Burns S. J., Neff U., Mangini A., Matter A.,<br />

2003. Changing moisture sources over the last 330,000<br />

years in Northern Oman from fluid inclusion evidence in<br />

speleothems. Quaternary Research 60, 223-232.<br />

Fleitmann D., Burns S.J., Mangini A., Mudelsee M.,<br />

Kramers J., Villa I., Neff U., <strong>Al</strong>-Subbary A.A., Buettner<br />

A., Hippler D. and Matter A., 2007. Holocene ITCZ and<br />

Indian monsoon dynamics recorded in stalagmites from<br />

Oman and Yemen (Socotra). Quaternary Science Reviews<br />

26, 170–188.<br />

Frumkin A., Carmi I., Gopher A., Ford D.C., Schwarcz<br />

H.P. and Tsuk T., 1999. A Holocene millenial-scale climatic<br />

cycle from a speleothem in Nahal Qanah Cave, Israel. The<br />

Holocene 9 (6), 677-682.<br />

Frumkin A., Ford D.C. and Schwarcz H.P., 2000. Paleoclimate<br />

and vegetation of the last glacial cycles in Jerusalem from<br />

a speleothem record. Global Biogeochemical cycles 14 (3),<br />

863-870.<br />

Karkabi, S., 1990. (Editor) <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate N°5: Special<br />

Jeita – Cinquantenaire de la spéléologie libanaise. <strong>Spéléo</strong>-<br />

<strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>, Lebanon, 136.<br />

Migowski, C., Stein, M., Prasad, S., Negendank, J. F.W.,<br />

Agnon, A., 2006. Holocene climate variability and cultural<br />

evolution in the Near East from the Dead Sea sedimentary<br />

record. Quaternary Research 66, 421-431.<br />

Nader, F. H., Swennen R., Ellam, R., 2004. Stratabound<br />

dolomite versus volcanism-associated dolomite: an<br />

example from Jurassic platform carbonates in Lebanon.<br />

Sedimentology 51 (2), 339-360.<br />

Nader, F. H., Verheyden, S., Cheng, H., Swennen R., 2007.<br />

Etude pétrographique et géochimique d’une stalagmite de<br />

la grotte de Jeita (<strong>Liban</strong>). Lebanese Science Journal 8 (2),<br />

45-58.<br />

Nader, F. H. 2004. The Jiita Cave (Lebanon). In Gunn, J.<br />

(Ed) Encyclopedia of Caves and Karst Science, Fitzroy<br />

Dearborn, New York – London, pp 463-464.<br />

Neff U., Burns S.J., Mangini A., Mudelsee M., Fleitmann<br />

D. and Matter A., 2001. Strog coherence between solar<br />

variability and the monsoon in Oman between 9 and 6 kyr<br />

ago. Nature 411, 290-293.<br />

Robinson S.A., Black S., Sellwood B.W., Valdes P.J.,<br />

2006. A review of palaeoclimates and palaeoenvironments<br />

in the Levant and Eastern Mediterranean from 25,000 to<br />

5,000 years BP: setting the environmental background for<br />

the evolution of human civilization. Quaternary Science<br />

Reviews 25, 1517-1541.<br />

Staubwasser M. and Weiss H., 2006. Holocene climate and<br />

cultural evolution in late prehistoric-early historic West<br />

Asia. Quaternary Research 66, 372-387.<br />

United Nations Development Program (UNDP), 1970.<br />

<strong>Liban</strong> Etude Des Eaux Souterraines. Government of<br />

Lebanon, Beirut, Lebanon.<br />

Walley, C.D., 2001. The Lebanon passive margin and the<br />

evolution of the Levantine Neotethys. In: Ziegler, P.A.,<br />

Cavazza, W., Robertson, A.H.F. and Crasquin-Soleau, S.<br />

(Eds.): Peri-Tethys Memoir 6: Peri-Tethyan Rift / Wrench<br />

Basins and Passive Margins, Mémoire <strong>du</strong> Muséum national<br />

d’Histoire naturelle, Paris, 86, 407-439.<br />

Left. the 1952 camp bottle showing the names of Sami Karkabi, Lionel Gorra and Raymond Khawam (This bottle can still be found on site inside Jiita cave).<br />

Right, the 1951 camp bottle showing the names of <strong>Al</strong>bert Anavy, Joseph Ghannum and Lionel Gorra with a small Lebanese flag (This bottle can still be found on site inside Jiita cave).<br />

(Photos by Rena Karanouh)<br />

42 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 43


SPELEoLoGY<br />

JIITA<br />

WITH<br />

SAMI<br />

Rena Karanouh | renakaranouh@hotmail.com<br />

Fig. 1<br />

Sami in Jiita,1954.<br />

(Photo by Sami Karkabi)<br />

Fig. 2<br />

Sami in Chaos.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jawdeh)<br />

اتيعج ةراغم لخاد 2000 ةنس تلصح ىتلا ةرماغملا ىلا لاقملا اذه قرطتي<br />

اتيعج ةراغم يفشتكم مها نم دحاوو راوغتسلاا ةدمعا دحا اهيف كراشو<br />

ةصاخبو ثادحلاا يوري هنلأ ةيمها هل لاقملا اذهو .يبكرك يماس ديسلا<br />

خيرات ىف اهريغو لايرغنشلاو رقصلا عقوم لثم ةمهملا تاطحملاو عقاوملا<br />

.ميظعلا روغتسملا اذه نيعا للاخ نم ةراغملا هذه فاشتكا<br />

IT IS GOOD WE<br />

ARE DOING<br />

THIS IN DARKNESS...<br />

WE WOULD NEVER<br />

DARE IF WE SAW<br />

WHAT WE WERE<br />

ACTUALLY DOING<br />

H.BLISS<br />

Shangi-la, Styx, Maxwell, Bliss, the Eagle, Dardanelles,<br />

La Minaret, La Pagode, Pantheon, Chaos, Thompson,<br />

Crusaders Column, Rapids de l’Enfers, the Tunnel…<br />

What am I going on about?<br />

What images do these wild places inspire?<br />

They are all actual places soon to be seen by me for the<br />

first time!<br />

To start.<br />

Why are we doing this? How are we finally being<br />

taken by Sami K. to see Jiita through his eyes? The only<br />

thing I will say at this point is Sami Karkabi is Jiita. If<br />

there is anyone who knows, lives, breaths, and loves this<br />

cave, it is he.<br />

A couple of months back he had said he wanted to<br />

tell us the history of Jiita. We (Issam and I) told him that<br />

it would so much better to go into Jiita and then he can<br />

explain the history on the ground. He agreed. We couldn’t<br />

believe it. Sami Karkabi after a 20 year absence, was<br />

entering the lower gallery of Jiita to spend two days in the<br />

cave he helped discover and map in the 50’s.<br />

So that was it.<br />

As simple as that.<br />

We all met at 2pm in the parking lot of Jiita to enter<br />

the cave. For me this was the first time in this area of<br />

Jiita, so excited doesn’t even begin to explain how I was<br />

feeling. We had planned to arrived slightly earlier than<br />

Sami as we wanted to prepare all the bags before we went<br />

inside. Sami was also notoriously known to get very angry<br />

if anyone was late. Sami’s reputation preceded him.<br />

But true to form we all arrived together! At least we<br />

were on time for once and not late.<br />

We arrived at the parking lot of Jiita Cave in our<br />

cars. The pioneering explorers could only access the cave<br />

using donkeys to carry the supplies down into the valley,<br />

a 2.5km trek that used to take around half an hour. Our<br />

boat inside the cave was made of an aluminium alloy<br />

with a flat hull. In 1873 they used a few planks of wood<br />

tied together and supported by inflatable goat-skins (<strong>Al</strong><br />

Ouat’Ouate, No5, 1990).<br />

3:30pm<br />

After the bags were placed in the boat we all got<br />

in. Marc steered at the front, Issam and I rowed, next sat<br />

Sami and finally Joe, who steered from the back. A steerer<br />

at the front and one at the back does not make for good<br />

steering, ‘too many cooks…’ came to mind very often.<br />

At last count there were 13 sacs, four cameras, lots of<br />

food, 2 writing books, lots of smiles, and the feeling that<br />

something special was happening. We also had a gallon of<br />

water because earlier in the week we had gotten a lecture<br />

from Marc about the water in Jiita being contaminated<br />

with Epoxi-hepi-fluoro-sewage-bacter’ium-includis……<br />

no-one ever understands Marc but we didn’t want to take<br />

the chance of ending up with the previously mentioned<br />

disease so we took our own water….ever heard of ‘Water,<br />

water, everywhere but not a drop to drink?’…that was us.<br />

We were finally on our way. The first 400m was the<br />

illuminated tourist section Lac Thomson, named after<br />

the first person to explore and write about the cave. Here<br />

we saw the Screen, a narrow passage where Sami had<br />

dynamited the rock to allow the boats to pass through.<br />

Before the dynamiting the barrier of rock meant that the<br />

boats had to be carried over the rock and then replaced<br />

into the water. Then came; Tower of Pisa on the right<br />

which was indeed a leaning stalagmite, the Weeping<br />

Willow on the left, a beautiful curtain wall, the Flic (the<br />

police roundabout) which was a protruding rock in the<br />

middle of the water.<br />

44 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 45<br />

JIITA<br />

WITH SAMI<br />

Une aventure extraordinaire vécue par quelques spéléologues en l’an 2000 et qui leur<br />

a permis de voir l’incroyable grotte de Jiita à travers les yeux d’un de ses explorateurs<br />

M. Sami Karkabi. Shangri-la, Styx, Maxwell, Bliss, l’Aigle, Dardanelles, Le Minaret, La<br />

Pagode, Pantheon, Chaos, Thompson, Crusaders Column, Rapides de l’Enfer, le Tunnel...<br />

tous ceux-là et bien plus ont inspiré le vieillissant Sami K. à vivre ses rêves à nouveau.


We stopped at the sand mound on the right just after<br />

the Flic and before Maxwell’s Column. Sami and Issam<br />

photographed, we modelled, held flashlights, and listened<br />

to Sami as he explained the history.<br />

In 1873, W.J Maxwell, an engineer from London<br />

commissioned by the water board entered Jiita with the<br />

purpose of studying the cave to see if the water from the<br />

Dog River can be used to supply water to the city of Beirut.<br />

The other men who entered with him for the exploration<br />

were W.G Huxley his second on the engineering staff, Rev.<br />

D Bliss, then president of the Syrian Protestant College<br />

(later to be the AUB), and R.W. Brigstocke. Maxwell had<br />

read a previous account by a Dr. Thomson, an American<br />

missionary, who in 1836, had fired a gun into the cave<br />

and judging from the echoes he heard said the cave must<br />

be very big. He had no boat at the time to explore but he<br />

had seen the beautiful concretions at the entrance (with<br />

foresight this was a good thing because in his account<br />

he states that he longed for a boat so he can gather the<br />

stalactites and stalagmites. He became the first ‘caver’<br />

to write an account of a cave in Lebanon. Unknowingly<br />

he had entered the first 50m of Jiita (<strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate, No5,<br />

1990).<br />

4:00pm<br />

From the sand mound we stood on we could see<br />

Maxwell’s Column. This gigantic column is a landmark<br />

in the cave. I recognized it from all the old photographs<br />

and etchings I had seen in the <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat’Ouate. Issam of<br />

course found some concretions that got him all excited.<br />

Decalcification seems to get him all hot and bothered these<br />

days.<br />

We all got back into the boat and made our way<br />

to Maxwell’s Column. Surrounded by sand, this pillar is<br />

stunning. It is approximately 8m high and seems to stand<br />

guard to the rest of the cave. In Maxwell’s report he writes<br />

that this column was so imposing and grandiose it stopped<br />

their exploration for a while,<br />

‘Standing out in bold relief, with fine fluted front<br />

and continued to the rear in a mass of pendent drapery,<br />

like a sheet let down in graceful folds from the roof. The<br />

leader of the party, amid ringing cheers was compelled to<br />

allow his name to be given to the central attraction.’ (<strong>Al</strong>-<br />

Fig. 3<br />

A dinghy passage, 1954.<br />

(Photo by Sami Karkabi)<br />

Ouat’Ouate, No5, 1990)<br />

From that time on the pillar came to be known as<br />

Maxwell’s Column.<br />

We climbed the rocks behind it only to discover<br />

a small bottle placed on top of a colonette. We opened<br />

the bottle and read the paper that had been placed<br />

inside, ‘Christmas 2000, Dr. Nabil Hadad.’ (Dr. Hadad<br />

is currently the director of Jiita cave). Sami didn’t like<br />

this very much as all the bottles that had previously been<br />

placed in Jiita were placed as a reward and proof of the<br />

explorers’ feats in the cave.<br />

I wandered through the forest of stalagmites on<br />

the slope next to the column when Sami asked me, ‘So<br />

do you recognize this?’ I thought and thought and then I<br />

recognized it from his photos. I had seen it many times<br />

and here it was in front of my eyes. I shouted the answer<br />

to Sami and he smiled. This game was to carry on through<br />

the entire trip. I loved it. We had reached ‘the Minaret’<br />

and ‘the Pagoda’. Marc was wandering through the<br />

stalactites, Joe was sitting on a rock and I was watching<br />

Sami and Sami just stood there. What must have been<br />

going through his mind? It had been 20 years since he had<br />

been inside this cave. He had lived, breathed, explored,<br />

slept her for 15 days straight, twice, while he was drawing<br />

the survey and exploring the cave. For twenty years this<br />

cave was his life and <strong>du</strong>ring the civil war in Lebanon, <strong>du</strong>e<br />

to political events, it had been taken over by someone else<br />

to manage. What a feeling. He was now back standing in<br />

the same places. This was a cave he had told us repeatedly<br />

that he would never enter again and this outing was<br />

special for us because of Sami. But here he was. I guess<br />

when you love something the heart always wins over the<br />

mind.<br />

4:40pm<br />

We left Maxwell’s Column to pass through<br />

‘The Dardanelles’, a series of water channels between<br />

protruding rocks. After that we arrived at a well known<br />

site, which is portrayed on the old Lebanese pound note.<br />

Fig. 4<br />

The Lac Dorothy dinghy crossing.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

We were sitting now looking at the real thing. We passed<br />

a curtain concretion called the Me<strong>du</strong>sa, or ‘The Jellyfish’.<br />

The English called it ‘The Parachute’. In this passage<br />

we passed the postage stamp (original photo taken by<br />

Manoug) illustration called the ‘The Camel’. Behind and<br />

above the Me<strong>du</strong>sa lies a pocket of red straw concretions.<br />

We stopped at a mound of eboulis with an iron<br />

ladder placed at the top. It was old, rusted and connected<br />

the Lower Gallery with the Upper Gallery. Here was<br />

where they had placed the mat and gone up to discover<br />

the beauty of the Upper Gallery. Marc and Joe went up to<br />

walk around a bit.<br />

In 1957 a mat was bought from Grenoble in France.<br />

This was used by Raymond Khawam, in 1958, who<br />

went up the ladder and placed a rope. Later George Farra<br />

went up but it was finally Kasparian, Sami Karkabi and<br />

Raymond Khawam who went up and reached the upper<br />

gallery some 55m up. They actually climbed 80m up and<br />

then came down 33m to reach the Upper Gallery. On<br />

the first attempt they found themselves on the opposite<br />

side of what is now the touristic upper gallery. Then they<br />

took ladders and connected with the other side. President<br />

Chehab approved turning the Upper Gallery touristic from<br />

photographs taken by Sami. While they were exploring so<br />

many rocks fell below that the boat they were using was<br />

destroyed.<br />

5.15pm<br />

We were now some 600m inside the cave. Marc<br />

found an old coin that was apparently thrown from the<br />

Upper Gallery. Asking Issam to photograph it didn’t go<br />

down all that well with Issam. Marc had thought that the<br />

coin was stuck on the calcite but Issam was able to take it<br />

out and later on, at the end of the sortie, Issam gave it to<br />

Marc who (to put it mildly) didn’t appreciate the offer and<br />

immediately ratted us out to Sami. Sami just laughed it off.<br />

My comment of, ‘It is not a naturally occurring element<br />

in a cave so it was good we took it out’ was met with a<br />

hostile look. Oh well!<br />

5:35pm<br />

Rapid Bliss.<br />

Where were they?<br />

We could not find them.<br />

We were then told that it was <strong>du</strong>e to the dam that<br />

had been built at the ‘entrance’. The water level had gone<br />

up and the rapids were lost.<br />

And now, the Pantheon.<br />

Maxwell explained:<br />

More than a half mile underground we find<br />

ourselves in a spacious cavern, whose roof is lost in the<br />

gloom. Under this dome, standing out clear as alabaster in<br />

midst of darkness, is one of the most beautiful stalagmite<br />

formations of the grottoes, which, from its resemblance<br />

to the Pantheon, has been distinguished by that name (<strong>Al</strong>-<br />

Ouat’Ouate, No5, 1990).<br />

As we rowed we missed the place were we could<br />

go up into the Pantheon. We tried to go up from another<br />

location but the rock was covered with a black slimy<br />

coating. Later we found out that this was manganese<br />

oxide. We went back to the proper de-embarkation point<br />

which we knew was correct as there was a survey point<br />

at the top that we found on the map as well. We explored<br />

inside The Pantheon and here Sami told us that we need<br />

to survey this part of the cave as they had not done<br />

it. We followed the black cable and arrived at a sand<br />

plateau. Here we found Issam...his nose (already very big<br />

naturally) stuck in some rather interesting concretions.<br />

Hot and bothered again! We were, at this point, getting<br />

used to it. He photographed them. We named them ‘The<br />

Delta’ and ‘The Recrystalisation’. Issam tried to explain<br />

this phenomenon to Marc who only seemed interested in<br />

peeing and filling his carbide lamp with water. A small<br />

fight ensued over where Marc should pee. Should he pee<br />

in the water or the sand?…finally the sand won…As he<br />

was doing this Marc noticed bubbling in the water. He<br />

got all excited that this was a spring but Issam soon put<br />

an end to that saying it was his weight pressurising air in<br />

the sand and it bubbled out under the water. We made our<br />

way around the rest of the Pantheon which doubles back<br />

to the main axis river.<br />

6:50pm<br />

We were back in the boat. We passed by Bliss’s<br />

bottle. This bottle had been placed at the top of a<br />

stalagmite. It is calcified now and the note inside is<br />

unreadable. Explorers of the cave have tried to shake the<br />

bottle loose but to no avail as explained by E. Thompson<br />

on his 1927 expedition.<br />

In it (the Pantheon) is an island that rises to a peak,<br />

icy in pallor, and in slipperiness, on whose summit is the<br />

bottle containing the names of the first explorers, placed<br />

there more than fifty years ago. It stands in an incessant<br />

rain, and is now a solid part of the rock; we could not<br />

shake it in the least (<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat’Ouate, No5, 1990).<br />

To date the known bottles with notes inside, that were<br />

placed in Jiita by the early explorers are:<br />

-Bliss’s bottle, Pantheon, 1873<br />

-Bottle (unknown who placed it but probably Maxwell),<br />

Pantheon, 1874<br />

-West and Crawford’s bottle, Lake Dorothy, 1926<br />

-Thompson’s bottle, Thompson’s Cavern, 1927<br />

-Sami’s bottle (unknown location)<br />

-Gorra, Anavy, Ghanuum, inscription at 2800m (Falaise<br />

Karkabi)<br />

-Grand Chaos bottle, 1951<br />

-Salle Seche Camp, 1952<br />

As we rowed we found we are approaching the<br />

‘Potern’ and what seems to be a very narrow opening. In<br />

fact it was just large enough to fit the boat. 1.5m wide<br />

by 0.5m high from the water. A semicircle hole in the<br />

rockface. Sami said that they had to blast certain areas to<br />

allow the boat to go through. The tourist’s boats used to<br />

reach here (800m) but now they do not because it takes<br />

them too long to reach this point and return. The route<br />

was decreased to 300m so that less of this beautiful cave<br />

can be seen by the public for purely economical reasons,<br />

less time, more people, more money.<br />

46 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 47<br />

JIITA<br />

WITH SAMI


Fig. 5<br />

The ‘cross’ in the Rapides de l’Enfer, 1955.<br />

(Photo by Sami Karkabi)<br />

7.35pm<br />

Chaos.<br />

No….. I mean the place!<br />

1000m into the cave.<br />

We had arrived at our bedroom for the night.<br />

Chaos is a mountain of rocks surrounded by beautiful<br />

curtains of concretions, one, the Torpedo, is 12m high<br />

(after a haggling match with Marc), the Two Sisters (two<br />

identical large, white stalagmites) but what stood out the<br />

most was a column on the opposite side that was massive,<br />

known as Crusader’s Column. We had to carry our<br />

equipment up as we were sleeping in Shangri-la. We took a<br />

break here and Sami once again started talking.<br />

In 1892 and 1902 a professor A. E. Day reached the<br />

1000m accompanied by a crew from the water works.<br />

In 1923, Odinot reached 400m only researching the source<br />

of Jiita.<br />

In 1925, Dr. Lamarche, Odinot, Delanges and Janvier<br />

enter reaching 1000m.<br />

In 1926, Dr. Lamarche, Brun, Delanges and Janvier reach<br />

1100m, using a hand made boat.<br />

In 1926 W.A. West and J.P. Crawfard reach 1320m,<br />

reaching and naming Lake Dorothy and ‘The Tunnel’.<br />

In 1927, E. Thompson, D.H. <strong>du</strong> Bois, H.Hall, P. W. Ireland<br />

explored the cave using rafts made from 16 benzene tins.<br />

1940, Clan Lyautey, 1060m. Lionel Gorra was not allowed<br />

to enter with them. He was told that he was too young (he<br />

was18 years old) but it is believed that he was not allowed<br />

in because he was Lebanese.<br />

1946, L. Gorra, A.Anavy, L.Eid, N. Elnékavé, 1950m - The<br />

first Lebanese led expedition. Louis Eid was to discover<br />

Shangri-La. The Lebanese had finally taken back their<br />

cave back from the Americans and the French.<br />

1947, 1949, 1951 saw Lebanese led expeditions into the<br />

Fig. 6<br />

The ‘cross’ in the Rapides de l’Enfer.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jawdeh)<br />

cave. They reached 2800m (<strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate, No5, 1990).<br />

The speleological age of the Lebanese had begun, there<br />

was no stopping them now.<br />

As we transported the bags Sami told Issam that he had<br />

no photograph of the Crusader’s Column (this was thus<br />

called because the 1940 expedition was lead by the French<br />

who where from the Clan ‘Crusaders’ who discovered this<br />

column). So Issam went down to check the site out. At this<br />

point I was praying (For what? I hear you ask).…well my<br />

prayers were not answered as a few minutes later I heard<br />

Issam’s voice….’RENA…come here….’ Oh well, I guess<br />

it will be a bit of flash holding and modelling for me….so<br />

grudgingly I went down and posed next to the column.<br />

The fact that Issam forgot to tell me that he had<br />

finished taking the shot, and so leaving me standingfor a<br />

good five minutes in a very awkward position, one foot on<br />

the column and the other on a rock, made my scream of<br />

‘Haven’t you bloody well taken it yet?’ loud enough to get<br />

him out of his trance, releasing me from my position.<br />

The Jiita cave has gone through lots of name<br />

changes, from the Grottoes of Nahr el Kalb, Djaita, Jehita,<br />

to finally settling on Jiita. The name change from Grottoes<br />

of Nahr el Kalb to Jiita Grottoes seems to have happened<br />

in 1927 when in newspapers the name Jiita Grottoes was<br />

used. Naher el Kalb was the name of the river that runs<br />

through Jiita Grottoes but the entrance to the cave is an<br />

area called Jiita which means ‘roaring water’ in Aramaic.<br />

Finally we were all in Shangri-la. After a small<br />

clamber to the top of the Chaos’s rockfall we found that<br />

we could see the entire room from the top. It was like a<br />

balcony overlooking a surreal landscape. The Crusader’s<br />

Column was directly in front of us. The Torpedo<br />

concretion was to the left. The beautiful draperies of Chaos<br />

were to the right, and behind us was ‘The Jug’ (a huge<br />

stalagmite shaped like a Lebanese jug). The old explorers<br />

had reached here wearing swimming suits and carrying<br />

candles. To just stand here knowing all the work Sami<br />

and the others had put into this place made me feel like<br />

I was walking on sacred ground. Marc of course decided<br />

to smoke the cigar Sami had given him on this jug. Sami<br />

also told us of the dry 1600m upper passage that leads to<br />

Clayton’s Passage which starts from here. Basically it is a<br />

passage that runs on an upper level but on the walls of the<br />

lower galleries.<br />

8:00pm<br />

Shangri-La<br />

To sleep per chance to dream…<br />

No such luck!<br />

We settled in for the night. First things first. Candles<br />

lit up the place making it appear to be like a temple.<br />

Shangri-la turned out to be a 10m by 6m white room<br />

undergoing decalcification. The floor was stone much to<br />

our distress….Sami told us this was the first time anyone<br />

had ever slept in Shangri-la. Marc argued that he would<br />

have liked to sleep on sand rather than rock…<br />

‘Did someone say ‘karkabi’?’ Sami asked,<br />

‘I had no idea what he was talking about until he pointed<br />

to the mess we had made with our stuff. ‘Look at the<br />

‘karkabi’ in Shangri-la!’ he continued. Of course, to all<br />

non-arabic speakers reading this, you are not going to get<br />

the joke since it is a play on words in Arabic! Karkabi<br />

means ‘mess’ in Arabic.<br />

As the noodles were cooking we asked Sami what<br />

they had eaten on their expeditions. ‘On short trips dry<br />

things were on the menu. For long expeditions rice,<br />

chicken, eggs, stews’….Sami had also only allowed one<br />

glass of Arak a day for each person. He told us that he<br />

checked all bags that were entering the cave to see if<br />

anyone had brought with them any useless stuff.<br />

What was on our menu?<br />

Curried noodles, salami, ham, mushrooms, hot dogs,<br />

wheat, bread, and a bottle of wine brought by Sami.<br />

10:30pm<br />

<strong>Al</strong>l the food was packed and we settled to sleep. <strong>Al</strong>l<br />

the lights were switched off and it was so dark I couldn’t<br />

tell if my eyes were shut or open. This was the time for<br />

thinking. If I had been born in Sami’s time I would not<br />

be here. Sami had told us that he didn’t allow women in<br />

explorations as they distract from the work. They only<br />

came on ‘picnic’ sorties. I am glad things have changed.<br />

Issam told Marc to set the alarm at 5:00am. When<br />

everyone had settled in for the night Issam got his camera<br />

out and started photographing us while asleep. Sami<br />

shouted at him ‘voyeur!’<br />

7:30am<br />

Sami woke us up. Marc had forgotten to set his alarm<br />

and if Sami had not woken up we would have slept even<br />

longer. The joke of the night was that we will wake up<br />

when the sunlight appears…well it was funny at the time<br />

and I guess you had to be there….<br />

We were making breakfast debating why Shangrila<br />

was called Shangri-la. Sami said it meant ‘paradise’. I<br />

think the guys had other ideas. Breakfast consisted of tea,<br />

cheese, bread, fruit salad (Issam, who else?), croissant and<br />

wheat.<br />

48 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 49<br />

Fig. 7<br />

The boat being used <strong>du</strong>ring surveying, 1955.<br />

(Photo by Sami Karkabi)<br />

Fig. 8<br />

Arrival at the end point.<br />

(Photo by Sami Karkabi)<br />

JIITA<br />

WITH SAMI


8:15am<br />

We packed all our stuff and placed the bags back<br />

into the boat. Carrying the dinghies we were on our way.<br />

We could hear the Rapid’s d’Enfers (also known as Hells<br />

Rapids) known as Huxley and Bridstockes’s Rapids…<br />

these rapids had stopped many of the earlier expeditions.<br />

After walking for about 10minutes Issam climbed<br />

up to rig a ladder. I tried to find another way to go up<br />

and I did. Sami didn’t like this a lot as he said we were<br />

trying to retrace the old explorer’s routes. Issam gave me<br />

an exasperated stare…sorry…I just thought it would be<br />

easier. At the top of the rock we found old wine bottles<br />

from the 1902 expedition. Then we reached the rapids.<br />

Marc went ahead to find the walkway that would get us<br />

past them safely. He found it and we followed. There<br />

was a traverse and then a protruding rock from the rapids<br />

which was used as a foot hold and over to the other side,<br />

another traverse and then another cross over, until we<br />

reached a deep passage. We had to blow the dinghies up<br />

and use them to pass the deep part. <strong>Al</strong>l clear? Marc and I<br />

had a little race over the wall. He was not impressed when<br />

I got his feet wet! Calling me a little cheat was all I could<br />

hear in the distance as he ate my <strong>du</strong>st!!!…just kidding…<br />

he also swore unprintable things! Thompson in 1927 had<br />

written about this next part of the traverse.<br />

You lower yourself from ledge to ledge, to a<br />

place where you can stretch one foot to a split rock in<br />

mid-water, an inch or two below the surface. The upper<br />

side of the split is firm; the lower is loose and is better not<br />

stepped on. From this rock you spring across, and then<br />

climb. Though never so high again (<strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate, No5,<br />

1990).<br />

Here, in this passageway were two inscriptions<br />

could be found. The first was “1873”…the other being<br />

“1875 another hundred feet”.<br />

10:00am<br />

1080m.<br />

The dinghies were placed in the water and Issam<br />

and Sami went first so that Issam could rig the second<br />

ladder. There was an old metal ladder still dangling and<br />

Issam climbed about 2m and rigged the ladder. The water<br />

here is very strong as we were close to a waterfall. We<br />

followed and climbed up the two meters to a ledge. The<br />

dinghies were transported with us, carrying them over the<br />

climb and past the Deversoir Lamarche waterfall. We then<br />

walked through the ‘Tunnel’.<br />

The Tunnel turned out to be exactly as its name<br />

describes. It was an easy walk all through the entire<br />

section of this passage. It looked like a deep, straight<br />

canyon. Only one dingy was used to pass Lake Dorothy.<br />

Again this took two trips, transporting Sami, Issam and<br />

I first, and then going back to get Joe and Marc. Lake<br />

Dorothy is not really a lake as such. It is just where the<br />

river becomes wider and deeper.<br />

We had finally landed on the sands of Thompson’s<br />

Cavern. This room is massive. After walking for 5<br />

minutes over rocks and sand beaches we arrived at what<br />

is commonly known as The Eagle Obelisk. This large<br />

stalagmite had what looks like a head of an eagle on its<br />

top. We were now at 1700m. I stood at the bottom of the<br />

pillar while Issam photographed, and Marc and Joe held<br />

flashes. Sami was wandering between the rocks and we<br />

followed him a few meters behind.<br />

We then arrived at what was to be out final<br />

destination: The Gours. These turned out to be beautiful<br />

rimstone dams with cave pearls the size of marbles. What<br />

a sight….One by one we took our shoes off and walked<br />

on the wet dams. Joe placed a bottle here with all our<br />

names. Who knows, maybe in one hundred years someone<br />

will find it and wonder who we were. Issam, Joe and I are<br />

the only ones who know what was written on that note. I<br />

hope someday someone reads it and agrees with what was<br />

written.<br />

We put our shoes back on and made our way back.<br />

Back through Thompson, the Eagle, Lake Dorothy, the<br />

Tunnel, the Inscriptions (at this point I have to tell you<br />

that we didn’t actually see these writings but I am sure we<br />

will on later occasions), the Hell’s rapids, the Crusaders<br />

Pillar, Chaos, Shagri-la, Styx, Pantheon, Maxwell’s<br />

Column, Le Flic, the Willows, Lake Thomson…and<br />

finally the exit.<br />

So we were finally back where we started.<br />

2:00pm<br />

Our boat was called Caroserce Abillama.<br />

Thank you for not tipping us into the water.<br />

We carried all our bags towards the cars. Sami<br />

wanted to get photographed under the sculpture that now<br />

stands outside the lower gallery of Jiita cave. ‘The God of<br />

the Cave’ I presume. So we took the most touristy photos<br />

ever (Fig. 10). <strong>Al</strong>l smiles and laughter.<br />

2000m upstream. We still have a lot to do inside<br />

this cave as this was only the beginning. The history<br />

continues.<br />

I came out of the cave full of emotions. I felt<br />

that this was something so special. Probably never<br />

to be repeated again. Sami promised to take us to the<br />

Upper Gallery and tell us about that escapade. The next<br />

report will contain names like Anavy, Gorra, Khawam,<br />

Kasparian and of course Karkabi. It will contain places<br />

like Cascade Mica, Falaise Karkabi, Salle Blanche, Salle<br />

Rouge, Salle <strong>du</strong> Dome, Palace of the Thousand and One<br />

Nights, Grand Chaos, I can go on and on….<br />

At this point I would like to point out that Sami is 72<br />

years old. Just a thought to ponder on.<br />

Thank you Issam, for being patient with my endless<br />

questions.<br />

Thank you Joe for being so reliable.<br />

Thank you Marc for not asking too many questions.<br />

But most of all thank you Sami for being who you are and<br />

for loving caving so much.<br />

Last but not least thank you Jiita, for still having secrets<br />

you want to share with us.<br />

Until next time.<br />

References<br />

- S. Karkabi, 1990. Cinquantenaire de la speleologie<br />

<strong>Liban</strong>ese, <strong>Al</strong> Ouatouate.<br />

- Personal communication with Sami Karkabi.<br />

50 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 51<br />

Fig. 10<br />

The 2000 Jiita cave expedition. Issam bou Jaoude, Rena Karanouh, Sami Karkabi and Marc Metni (from left to right),<br />

Joe Mhanna took the photograph.<br />

(Photo by Joe Mhanna)<br />

Fig. 9<br />

The 1950’s SCL cavers of Jiita cave.<br />

(Photo by Farid Zoghbie)


SPELEOTHEMS<br />

The gianTs<br />

of jiiTa cave<br />

stalagmites & columns of jiita<br />

ةيسلكلا دعاوصلاو ةدمعلأا<br />

اتيعج ةراغم يف ةدوجوملا ةمخضلا<br />

ىلع دهاش يه لاوأ :ناتزيم اهل<br />

ايناثو ةراغملا هذه فاشتكا طاطحم<br />

نيروغتسملل حيتت ةقراف تاملاع يه<br />

ةيلمع للاخ مهعقاوم نم دكاتلا<br />

.ةليوطلا راوغتسلأا<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude | Georges Haddad<br />

iboujaoude@gmail.com<br />

| jorjehaddad80@hotmail.com<br />

The maxwell column<br />

Ces formes géantes de stalagmites et<br />

colonnes de carbonate de calcium cristallisé<br />

témoignent et tracent les évènements<br />

historiques qui ont abouti à la découverte et<br />

à l’exploration de la grotte de Jiita, et servent<br />

toujours de points de référence pour les<br />

nouveaux explorateurs et les aventuriers de<br />

cette grotte extraordinaire.<br />

from The Time you seT fooT inTo The<br />

amazing cave of jiiTa you are confronTed wiTh<br />

gianT calciTe figures in The form of sTalagmiTes<br />

and columns. Those gianT figures have Been<br />

and sTill are Bench marks for discoverers and<br />

explores of This amazing cave. hisTorically<br />

cavers used Them as reference poinTs <strong>du</strong>ring<br />

Their caving endeavors ThaT sTarTed as early<br />

as 1873 and conTinued Till laTe 70’s. They have<br />

well marked Them on Their maps and clearly<br />

documenTed Them in Their reporTs. recenTly<br />

afTer The 1990’s cavers used Them as reference<br />

poinTs for locaTing Themselves <strong>du</strong>ring Their<br />

long venTures inTo This marvelous cave. This<br />

shorT synThesis highlighTs seven of Those<br />

gianT figures ThaT Take The form of eiTher<br />

sTalagmiTes or columns.<br />

The first of those giants is Maxwell<br />

Column located in Salle de Maxwell some 400<br />

meters inside the lower water section of this<br />

cave. This calcite monster was named after<br />

W.J. Maxwell in 1873. He was the leader of a<br />

party of four: D.D. Bliss, W.G. Huxley and R.W.<br />

Brigstock who explored the first 800 meters<br />

of this cave in year 1873. The leader was part<br />

of a group of engineers who were trying to<br />

find an exploitation method to bring the water<br />

of the dog river (Nahr el Kalib) to Beirut. The<br />

following extraction from the report that was<br />

written in 1875 by Jas. Robertson unraveled<br />

the historical monument.<br />

“At this time however, an object of<br />

imposing grandeur arrested their progress<br />

and claimed their admiration. It was an<br />

immense column, some fifty feet high…<br />

….A shoal at the base of the column offered<br />

a convenient resting place for luncheon,<br />

and the leader of the party was compelled,<br />

amid ringing cheers, to allow his name to<br />

the central attraction of this cave.”<br />

Fig. 1<br />

The maxwell’s column.<br />

(Photo by Marwan Zgheib)<br />

The Bliss BoTTle sTalagmiTe (BouTeille de Bliss)<br />

The crusader column<br />

The second of the giants is the Bliss Bottle<br />

stalagmite. This calcite giant foot like stalagmite<br />

stands 5 to 6 meters tall in the Pantheon in the<br />

middle of the water way approximately 600 m<br />

inside the water section of this cave. It was<br />

discovered in the 1873 by the same group of<br />

four lead by Maxwell and a bottle was placed on<br />

top of it by D.D. Bliss, one of the team members.<br />

However, the name was given to this growing<br />

calcite giant by the Ward and Thompson expedition<br />

in 1927 when they discovered a calcified bottle on<br />

top of this stalagmite and Ed Thompson a journalist<br />

for the Times and Sphere magazine wrote in his<br />

report following that expedition:<br />

“In it is an island, which rises to a peak,<br />

icy in pallor and in slipperiness, on whose<br />

summit is the bottle containing the names of the<br />

first explorers, placed their more than fifty years<br />

ago. It stands in an incessant rain and now a<br />

solid part of the rock; we could not shake it in<br />

the least.”<br />

Since that time the stalagmite was known as<br />

the Bliss Bottle Stalagmite. <strong>Al</strong>though the bottle now<br />

is totally covered with calcite the stalagmite still<br />

bears the name and holds amazing history in it.<br />

Fig. 2<br />

The Bliss bottle stalagmite.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

The third of those giants is the Crusader<br />

Column. This giant 20 meters calcite column<br />

greats you at the entrance of the Chaos some<br />

800 m inside the cave. This area was the<br />

focus of much exploration <strong>du</strong>ring the years<br />

before 1940. But it was not been tagged by any<br />

name until the 1940’s when Le Clan Lyautey<br />

reached the Chaos on the way to extend the<br />

discoveries in this cave and named it as the<br />

Crusader Column. On the rough schematic map<br />

of the cave drawn by A. Anavy in 1950 this<br />

column is well noted. <strong>Al</strong>though it has been a<br />

giant figure in the Chaos that cannot be missed<br />

and a station for explores since the time of its<br />

discovery it has not been photographed until<br />

the 21 century.<br />

Fig. 3<br />

The crusader column.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

52 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 53


The oBelisk sTalagmiTe<br />

(oBelisque de l’Aigle)<br />

Fig. 4<br />

The obelisk stalagmite.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

The fourth of these giants is an eagle shaped calcite<br />

stalactite located in the Thompson cavern area of the<br />

cave some 2000 m from the entrance of the lower wet<br />

section. This stalagmite stands some 15 meters high<br />

and was given its name by explorers <strong>du</strong>ring the Ward-<br />

Thompson’s expedition in the year 1927.<br />

Ed. Thompson a journalist for the Times and Sphere<br />

magazines joined the 1927 expedition and wrote the<br />

following in his report on the expedition:<br />

“Since we were in the mood of naming, when<br />

we held our breath in delight at a snowy pillar, rising<br />

40 feet from a base 30 feet above the stream, Ireland<br />

called out, “I suppose we call this Thompson’s<br />

Pillar.” “Carried by acclamation,” he announced,<br />

after my generous comrades’ agreement. “No,” said<br />

<strong>du</strong> Bois, a few yards further on. “Obelisk is a better<br />

word.”<br />

gianT sTalagmiTes &<br />

columns in salle <strong>du</strong> dome<br />

Fig. 5<br />

The three stalagmites that make up ‘the Totem’ in salle <strong>du</strong> dome.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Instead of having a single fifth giant in this cave the area<br />

located some 3000 meters inside holds a nest of them. This<br />

collection of giant calcite figures was named by the 1950<br />

Lebanese explorers led by S. Karkabi as Stalagmites and<br />

Columns of the Salle <strong>du</strong> Dome in relation to the dome shaped<br />

chamber they are located in. They vary in diameter but reach<br />

heights of more than 15 m.<br />

This group of giants greets you when you enter the<br />

Salle <strong>du</strong> Dome. They signal the start of a series of elongate<br />

humongous connected dry chambers that extend some 600m.<br />

This is an extraction from the report written by Issam B.<br />

after the 2007 Jiita expedition “One cannot count the number<br />

of times members of the SCL have sat down under those<br />

giant stalagmites and columns in the Salle <strong>du</strong> Dome to catch<br />

their breath and snake before continuing on their venture into<br />

the cave or on their way out. The material left their stands<br />

witness of that and it also reminds us on the effect humans<br />

have on this fragile environment.”<br />

gianT sTalagmiTes &<br />

columns in The palais<br />

milles eT une nuiT The icing column<br />

Fig. 6<br />

stalagmites at the palais milles et une nuit.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Another collection of giants, the stalagmites<br />

and columns in the Palais Muilles et une Nuit are<br />

located some 3300m from the entrance. Those<br />

giants are in a room called Palais Muilles et une<br />

Nuit named by the 1950 Lebanese explorers led<br />

by S. Karkabi. Those stalagmites and column<br />

stand tall more than 15 meters high sometime<br />

touching the roof in an area that is quite<br />

rewarding in its beauty. They are the sixth giant<br />

group figures inside the cave.<br />

Fig. 7<br />

icing column, jiita upper gallery.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

The seventh of those giant calcite figures is located in the<br />

upper dry gallery of Jiita cave. <strong>Al</strong>though when you enter the<br />

upper dry cave from the touristic tunnel you are confronted with<br />

amazingly large number of beautiful stalagmites and columns,<br />

one giant calcite column some 100 meters inside stands out. It is<br />

almost 20 meters high and fully decorated with icing shaped calcite<br />

features. <strong>Al</strong>though the area was discovered in the late 1960’s it has<br />

not been given a name until recently in the 21st century when it<br />

was nick-named the Icing Column.<br />

REFERENCES<br />

- Jas. Robertson, 1875. The Grotto of Nahr el Kalb. Good Words, Pages 768-773.<br />

- Ed. Thomson, 1927. Crusader’s coast. The dog river and its caves, Pages 147-171.<br />

- S. Karkabi, 1990. Cinquantenaire de la speleologie <strong>Liban</strong>ese, <strong>Al</strong> Ouatouate.<br />

54 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 55<br />

The gianTs<br />

of jiiTa cave


PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

فيشرلأا نم ذوخأم لاقملا اذه يف روصلا مظعم<br />

لامجلأاب قرطتيو .يبكرك يماس ديسلل صاخلا<br />

.نمزلا عم هروطتو نانبل يف راوغتسلأا ةئشن ىلا<br />

قباطلا فاشتكا ىلع ءوضلا لاقملا اذه يقليو<br />

ةيحايس ةراغم لوا يهو .اتيعج ةراغمل يولعلا<br />

ريوطت ّ متو .طسولأا قرشلا يف اهمهاو نانبل يف<br />

ةحايسلا ةرازو فارشا تحت مهملا عقوملا اذه<br />

دوعي ةريخلأا ةنولأا يف لصاحلا بارخلا نكلو<br />

.ةميلس ريغلا ةرادلأا ىلا<br />

Sami Karkabi | kraks@cyberia.net.lb<br />

Johnny Tawk (pour le traitement des photographies) | johnnytok@hotmail.com<br />

LA<br />

phoTographie<br />

spÉlÉologiQue<br />

AU LIBAN<br />

historique et Témoignage<br />

(suite de l’article <strong>du</strong> n°14 <strong>du</strong> al ouat’ouate).<br />

Photo 52<br />

les passages délicats ont été sécurisés<br />

par des mains courantes.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Taken from the personal archives of mr. sami karkabi this<br />

article is a photographic documentations and a testimony to the<br />

birth of lebanese speleology. special attention is dedicated to<br />

the underground exploration in lebanon with emphasis on the<br />

development and improvement of underground exploration in<br />

lebanon with time. This article also pays tribute to the discovery of<br />

the upper gallery of jiita by lebanese cavers and turning this great<br />

discovery into the first real show cave in lebanon and opening an<br />

amazing unknown world to the public. The development was done<br />

under the supervision of the ministry of Tourism and the national<br />

council of Tourism and it actual degradation is mainly the result of<br />

current unprofessional management.<br />

Résumé<br />

Le présent article est illustré de nombreux clichés<br />

inédits. Certains remontent à 1953 et demeurent<br />

d’inestimables et précieux témoignages des premiers pas de<br />

la spéléologie libanaise. Il ne s’agira ici ni de prodiguer des<br />

conseils techniques ni d’exposer de belles photographies<br />

souterraines, mais de montrer le cheminement premier et<br />

aventurier de ces passionnés <strong>du</strong> monde des ténèbres, de<br />

profiter pour rendre hommage à certains d’entre eux pour<br />

leur apport à la spéléologie nationale et de rappeler que<br />

l’an 2008, représente un cinquantenaire (1958-2008) qui ne<br />

devrait pas tomber dans l’oubli : celui de la découverte des<br />

‘Galeries Supérieures de Jiita’. Offerte sans contrepartie<br />

par le <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> à l’Etat libanais, elles sont<br />

devenues la première attraction <strong>du</strong> spéléo tourisme au<br />

<strong>Liban</strong>. Joseph Tarrab, que je remercie ici, en guise de<br />

conclusion à son intro<strong>du</strong>ction <strong>du</strong> N° 5 <strong>du</strong> <strong>Al</strong>’Ouat’Ouate -<br />

1990, n’hésitait pas à écrire:<br />

… <strong>Al</strong>ors que la grotte était interdite au tourisme en<br />

raison de la guerre <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>: “JIITA, une grande<br />

cérémonie: inaccessible depuis 15 ans, elle continue<br />

de nous hanter en ces temps incertains. Elle reste<br />

l’une des images les plus prestigieuses d’un certain<br />

<strong>Liban</strong>, je veux dire d’un <strong>Liban</strong> certain”*.<br />

Il reste à déplorer que le prolongement <strong>du</strong> circuit<br />

actuel, dont les travaux étaient prévus pour l’an 1975,<br />

ait été abandonné. J’éviterai, et l’envie ne m’en manque<br />

pas, de signaler la dégradation des Galeries Supérieures<br />

à l’heure actuelle, depuis le dessaisissement <strong>du</strong> ministère<br />

<strong>du</strong> tourisme libanais en 1992, en faveur d’une société<br />

d’exploitation ignorant totalement la fragilité <strong>du</strong> monde<br />

souterrain.<br />

En guise d’intro<strong>du</strong>ction.<br />

C’est avec réticence que j’aborde le second volet<br />

de “La photographie spéléologique au <strong>Liban</strong>”. J’aurais<br />

préféré, qu’une tierce personne achève ce reportage sous<br />

forme d’entrevue. Ce ne sera pas le cas.<br />

J’avais décidé l’an dernier (2007) de mettre de l’ordre<br />

dans mes archives photo-spéléologiques et d’en faire don<br />

au SCL. Il fallait pour cela classer puis scanner non loin<br />

de vingt mille documents composés de négatifs couleurs<br />

et noir et blanc de petit et moyen format, de diapositives<br />

et de nombreux tirages sur papier. A cela il fallait joindre<br />

(progrès oblige) toutes les prises de vue en numérique.<br />

L’idée m’est alors venue de créer en collaboration de<br />

nos photographes spéléologues, une photothèque au sein<br />

de notre club. Elle rassemblerait sous forme de banque<br />

de donnée une inestimable documentation relative aux<br />

cavernes <strong>du</strong> liban. Il reste à créer une équipe à même de<br />

gérer cet ambitieux projet et à rédiger un règlement destiné<br />

à préserver les droits d’auteur. En attendant sa réalisation,<br />

56 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 57<br />

* Pour plus<br />

de détails,<br />

se référer au<br />

<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat’Ouate<br />

N°5 (1990),<br />

et le N°14<br />

(2007).


Photo 1<br />

franchissement de la falaise située à 2800 mètres de l’entrée en 1953 par<br />

s. karkabi et f. zoghbi.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

je voudrais remercier Johnny Tawk qui fidèlement et de longs<br />

mois <strong>du</strong>rant, a consacré son temps à scanner et à classer la<br />

totalité de mes archives personnelles. C’est à lui que seront<br />

confiés en un premier temps les originaux de cette collection.<br />

Je ne m’attarderai pas sur l’aspect technique ou<br />

artistique de la photographie souterraine. J’avais pour<br />

cela, dès mes premiers pas, profité de l’expérience de mes<br />

prédécesseurs. J’évoquerai par contre et sous ses différents<br />

aspects le témoignage (la mémoire) que la photographie est<br />

seule capable de générer. Ce retour en arrière ne s’est pas<br />

fait sans réflexion et émotion. Inexpérience spéléologique<br />

alliée à la découverte d’un monde souterrain infiniment beau,<br />

aventure souterraine pleinement vécue, partage harmonieux<br />

et amical d’un groupe uni. J’en profiterai aussi pour rendre<br />

hommage à mon ami Raymond Khawam, trop tôt disparu, à<br />

qui la spéléologie libanaise doit dans nombre d’explorations<br />

ses sources de succès. Je n’oublierai pas non plus de<br />

signaler que l’année 2008 représente un anniversaire, un<br />

cinquantenaire qui ne devrait pas tomber dans l’oubli, celui de<br />

la découverte des « Galeries supérieures de la grotte de Jiita<br />

(1958-2008). Un long chapitre lui a été consacré dans le N° 5<br />

- 1990 <strong>du</strong> <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate (pp. 76 -104). J’y ajouterai d’autres<br />

informations.<br />

Mes premiers pas de photographe spéléologue.<br />

Les premières tentatives ont été catastrophiques,<br />

l’errance la plus totale. En suivant les conseils de L. Gorra,<br />

je me trouvais confronté à la fumée abondante <strong>du</strong>e à la mise<br />

à feu <strong>du</strong> ruban de magnésium, aux temps de pose trop longs<br />

et aux instantanés difficiles à exécuter. Le tableau proposé<br />

par Z. Hakim indiquant les temps de pose et les ouvertures<br />

en fonction des différentes sources de lumière nécessitait trop<br />

de temps de réflexion. J’ai finalement opté pour le flash non<br />

électronique à ampoule fort performant. (Pour rappel, le flash<br />

Photo 2<br />

franchissement de la falaise située à 2800 mètres de l’entrée en 1953 par s. karkabi et f. zoghbi.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

électronique à cette époque n’était pas encore miniaturisé).<br />

J’avais abusé de ce procédé. La réussite <strong>du</strong> cliché tenait <strong>du</strong><br />

hasard. Manoug y a mis un frein. C’est de son expérience<br />

que j’ai le plus profité. A titre d’information je joins la liste<br />

des appareils photographiques utilisés lors de mes différentes<br />

explorations.<br />

1953 : Voigtlander (Vito II - f .5.6).<br />

1958 : Hasselblad 500c. - Modèle standard. Utilisé jusqu’en 1961.<br />

1961 : Rolleiflex 50mm - f : 4.<br />

1962 : Nikon sous toutes ses formes : Nikon F et la série des F2.<br />

2002 : Adoption non sans méfiance <strong>du</strong> numérique Nikon D100 et<br />

D200.<br />

La qualité et la variété des appareils photos, dont<br />

certains ont fini noyer ou mis hors de service en cours<br />

d’expédition, ne reflètent nécessairement pas le rendement<br />

espéré.<br />

Rappel historique.<br />

Deux périodes distinguent l’histoire de la spéléologie<br />

libanaise. La première s’inscrit entre 1946 et 1951 et la<br />

seconde dans l’après 1951, année de la fondation <strong>du</strong> <strong>Spéléo</strong><br />

<strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>. La première période a été longuement<br />

décrite dans le N°5 <strong>du</strong> <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate-1990. La seconde<br />

moins connue s’ouvre sur un fait divers. En 1952, L. Gorra<br />

organise une expédition à Jiita accompagné de R. Khawam<br />

et de moi-même. Elle <strong>du</strong>rera 6 jours, <strong>du</strong> 11 au 17 octobre et<br />

a pour but de parfaire la topographie de la “Salle <strong>du</strong> Dôme”<br />

et de franchir l’obstacle qui avait arrêté l’expédition de 1951.<br />

Cet obstacle est situé à l’est et dans le prolongement de la<br />

“Salle <strong>du</strong> Dôme”. Il se présente sous forme d’un ressaut<br />

transversal s’adossant aux parois de part et d’autre de la grotte<br />

et dominant une galerie de grandes proportions. Il est estimé à<br />

40 ou 50m de hauteur par L. Gorra (p.10 <strong>du</strong> rapport L. Gorra<br />

Photo 3<br />

découverte des sources de la rivière souterraine de jiita en 1954. de gauche à droite : s. karkabi, r.<br />

khawam, a. anavy et f. zoghbi.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

à l’Office des Eaux de Beyrouth), donc infranchissable avec le<br />

matériel dont on disposait à l’époque.<br />

En 1953, riche de l’expérience de cette première<br />

expédition à laquelle je participais, je décidais de poursuivre<br />

l’exploration <strong>du</strong> réseau actif de Jiita. La falaise, au vu de<br />

l’éclairage dont nous disposions à cette époque, prenait allure<br />

d’inviolabilité. Cependant, contrairement à mes prédécesseurs<br />

qui estimaient la hauteur de l’obstacle à une quarantaine ou<br />

plus de mètres, je considérais qu’elle ne devait pas dépasser<br />

20 mètres prise à l’une de ses extrémité. Je décidai sous l’oeil<br />

sceptique de mes prédécesseurs de reprendre l’expédition<br />

en 1953. Je contactai pour cela Robert de Joly inventeur des<br />

échelles souples et commandai deux trains d’échelles de dix<br />

mètres. C’est ainsi que l’obstacle a été franchi (Photo 1). Pour<br />

rappel le SCL est redevable à M. Kamel Mroué directeur <strong>du</strong><br />

quotidien <strong>Al</strong> Hayat qui sponsorisa deux expéditions (1953<br />

et 1954) en échange de l’exclusivité <strong>du</strong> reportage dans son<br />

journal AL Hayat de 1953 et <strong>du</strong> 26 septembre au 2 octobre<br />

1954.<br />

Les Photo 2 et 3 demeurent historiques. Le cliché 2<br />

représente de gauche à droite : S. Karkabi, Yves Arambourg,<br />

F. Zoghbi et S. Mohbat. Aucun de ces aventuriers ne<br />

pouvait prétendre à cette époque avoir une quelconque<br />

expérience spéléologique. Et pourtant cette expédition<br />

réussit à franchir l’obstacle qui avait arrêté celles de 1951 et<br />

de 1952 et à découvrir plus d’un km de rivière souterraine.<br />

la phoTographie<br />

spÉlÉologiQue au liBan<br />

Les photo 2 et 3 demeurent historiques.<br />

La première représente de gauche à droite:<br />

S. Karkabi, Yves Arambourg, F. Zoghbi et<br />

S. Mohbat. Aucun de ces aventuriers ne<br />

pouvait prétendre à cette époque avoir une<br />

quelconque expérience spéléologique. Et<br />

pourtant cette expédition réussit à franchir<br />

l’obstacle qui avait arrêté celles de 1951<br />

et de 1952 et à découvrir plus d’un km de<br />

rivière souterraine. Pourquoi historique?<br />

Parceque aucun membre des anciens<br />

explorateurs n’en faisait partie. Sang neuf et<br />

jeune, futur noyau spéléologique <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>.<br />

Pourquoi historique ? Parce que aucun membre des anciens<br />

explorateurs n’en faisait partie. Sang neuf et jeune, futur<br />

noyau spéléologique <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>. Le cliché 3 représente l’équipe<br />

qui découvrit les sources <strong>du</strong> Nahr el Kelb. Autre exploit : la<br />

première expédition dans Jiita remonte à 1873 et il aurait fallu<br />

attendre 81 ans (et 19 expéditions) pour que l’énigme de<br />

l’origine <strong>du</strong> cours d’eau souterraine soit résolu.<br />

La photographie souterraine, aperçu inédit.<br />

Tout spéléologue détient dans un recoin de sa<br />

bibliothèque des ouvrages illustrés de haute ou moindre qualité<br />

d’impression, <strong>du</strong> monde souterrain. Il n’existe pas au <strong>Liban</strong>,<br />

hors les revues <strong>du</strong> SCL (<strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate), <strong>du</strong> GERSL (Le<br />

Monde Souterrain) et de l’ALES (<strong>Spéléo</strong>rient), d’ouvrages<br />

spécifiquement spéléologiques. Cependant le sujet ne manque<br />

pas d’intérêt et mériterait que l’on y accorde plus d’attention.<br />

Pae ailleurs, l’évolution <strong>du</strong> matériel d’exploration des<br />

premières années de la spéléologie libanaise n’a jamais été<br />

décrite. J’ai puisé dans mes archives de quoi illustrer cet aspect<br />

jusqu’ici méconnu.<br />

L’équipement spéléo des années cinquante.<br />

Les pionniers de la spéléologie libanaise n’exploraient à<br />

l’époque (1946 - 1951) que la rivière souterraine de Jiita. C’est<br />

à la suite de la fondation <strong>du</strong> <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> que le<br />

Photo 4<br />

equipement personnel<br />

hétéroclite des premiers<br />

explorateurs libanais à la<br />

grotte de jiita. de gauche à<br />

droite : s. karkabi, n. waked,<br />

r. Bouchereau, z. hakim, g.<br />

kasparian et j. koleita.<br />

(Photo by Manoug)<br />

58 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 59


Photo 5<br />

yvette philippine.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 6<br />

hélène gombert.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

domaine des investigations souterraines s’est éten<strong>du</strong> à d’autres<br />

cavernes. La tenue classique à l’époque se limitait au port<br />

d’un short ou d’un maillot de bain et d’une chemise à longues<br />

ou courtes manches (Photo 4).<br />

L’équipement féminin n’échappait pas à la règle.<br />

Belle époque où la spéléo féminine ne s’embarrassait pas <strong>du</strong><br />

superflu - Grotte de Nabaa el Chataoui - Antélias - 1955 -<br />

Photo 5 et Photo 6.<br />

L’usage de cet équipement pour le moins élémentaire<br />

est demeuré en pratique jusqu’aux premières reconnaissances<br />

<strong>du</strong> gouffre de Fouar Dara (1958) où la température ambiante<br />

n’excédait pas 6°C. (Photo 7 et Photo 8).<br />

Les spéléos réalisent alors l’inopportunité de cette tenue.<br />

Elle sera remplacée par la salopette en toile (Photo 9) et les<br />

espadrilles de corde par de grosses chaussures de montagne.<br />

Deux principaux obstacles rendirent cette tenue<br />

obsolète. Marmites d’eau profondes à franchir et puits arrosés.<br />

Photo 9<br />

r. khawam, salopette en toile grise (1962).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 10<br />

yves deshays, dara (1965).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 7<br />

r. k hawam dans dara en short et espadrilles<br />

de corde au puits de 15 m.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Ainsi la salopette en toile perméable ne pouvait convenir<br />

Les spéléos choisirent d’y remédier. Pour les uns ce sera<br />

un sac en plastique couvrant le haut <strong>du</strong> corps (Photo 10),<br />

maigre protection il faut le reconnaître, pour les autres, un<br />

survêtement en toile plastifiée, fragile et peu efficace (Photo<br />

11).<br />

De l’exotisme en spéléologie Photo 12 et 13.<br />

Le bivouac souterrain.<br />

Il n’y a eu au <strong>Liban</strong> que deux cavernes ayant nécessité<br />

de bivouaquer : Jiita et Dara. Photo 14, 15 et 16.<br />

Les repas.<br />

Toujours bien équilibrés, les repas sous terre n’avaient<br />

lieu qu’en fin de journée - (Photo17 et 18).<br />

Photo 11<br />

emile ghanem, dara (1965).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 8<br />

ernest sasson en maillot de bain et espadrilles<br />

de corde à - 80 m. dans dara.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 12<br />

youssef hajj - paysan mais néanmoins batelier à la grotte de jiita qui<br />

visite en 1958 et en tenue traditionnelle les galeries supérieures.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 15<br />

Tente dréssée à -350m dans dara (1962).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 17<br />

jiita - 2800m. - r. khawam et f. zoghb (1954).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 13<br />

abou Tony - paysan <strong>du</strong> village de aïn saadé qui visite<br />

en 1969 la grotte kassarat à antélias. Tenue également<br />

traditionnelle de la montagne libanaise.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 16<br />

Bivouac à -450m dans dara (1965).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 14<br />

Bivouac dans la salle <strong>du</strong> dôme (1960).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 18<br />

dara - 450m. de gauche à droite, e. ghanem, a. Boustany, g. farra, y. deshay (1965).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

60 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 61


Les Mesures de Débit d’Eau.<br />

Farid Zoghbi<br />

Le SCL doit à F. Zoghbi l’ensemble des mesures<br />

de débit des cours d’eaux souterrains <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>. Les plus<br />

importantes concernent celles effectuées au mois d’octobre<br />

1960 le long de la rivière souterraine de Jiita. Jaugeages en 12<br />

points répartis sur 10 jours. Le résultat est surprenant, le débit<br />

à la résurgence accuse 1203 l/s, alors que proche <strong>du</strong> siphon<br />

terminal seulement 975 l/s. (Voir rapport à l’Office des Eaux<br />

de Beyrouth en date <strong>du</strong> 8 septembre 1960) (Fig. 5),<br />

(Photo. 38,39).<br />

Georges Dobroff<br />

Dans le but de capter à sa source les eaux souterraines<br />

de la grotte de Jiita, l’Office des Eaux de Beyrouth entreprend<br />

d’établir une topographie précise <strong>du</strong> cheminement souterrain.<br />

Un tunnel (Daraya) devrait permettre un accès direct au<br />

siphon terminal situé à 6.200 de l’entrée. Elle s’adresse pour<br />

cela aux spéléologues à l’origine de la découverte et familiers<br />

des lieux.<br />

L’entreprise n’était pas évidente. Il fallait disposer<br />

d’une équipe solide prête à séjourner de nombreux jours sous<br />

terre et trouver un topographe capable de réaliser ce projet<br />

ambitieux et coûteux. Le risque était grand vu l’objectif final.<br />

Le choix d’un topographe ayant les compétences<br />

requises devait avoir deux qualités: une connaissance parfaite<br />

des appareils topographiques en usage: le théodolite, le<br />

tachéomètre et le niveau et, aussi bien, d’avoir une bonne<br />

forme physique et morale.<br />

Je contactai Georges Dobroff (ami d’enfance),<br />

géomètre assermenté auprès <strong>du</strong> Ministère des Travaux<br />

Publics, afin de lui soumettre le projet. Il accepta sous<br />

réserve de découvrir les lieux, admettant n’avoir aucune<br />

expérience spéléologique. Nous partîmes pour deux jours en<br />

reconnaissance sous terre. Le test s’avéra positif.<br />

Quant aux coéquipiers je ne nommerai que les plus<br />

réguliers : A. Boustany, E. Ghanem, R. Khawam, M. Spiridon<br />

et F. Zoghbi, sans pour autant oublier l’apport inestimable des<br />

membres <strong>du</strong> SCL et de Youssef Zakkour qui trois ans <strong>du</strong>rant a<br />

été mon plus fidèle compagnon.<br />

Les différentes étapes de ce pari souterrain.<br />

La première étape, la plus déterminante, consistait à<br />

poser un point géodésique à proximité de la caverne. Le soin<br />

de cette opération délicate a été confié à M. Jean Grapotte,<br />

directeur auprès de la Direction des Affaires Géographiques<br />

et Géodésiques <strong>du</strong> Ministère de la Défense Nationale. Ce<br />

point a été matérialisé par une borne en béton située sur le<br />

toit de la station de pompage face à la résurgence de la grotte<br />

de Jiita (voir Fig. 6). La seconde étape consistait à établir un<br />

cheminement concrétisé par des stations aux coordonnées<br />

géographiques précises d’atteindre le dernier point situé au<br />

siphon terminal dans le but de percer un tunnel d’accès<br />

(Fig. 7). La troisième étape consistait en un levé de détail<br />

des parois et des principaux obstacles <strong>du</strong> circuit souterrain; à<br />

savoir le signalement des concrétions importantes et celui des<br />

passages clefs (Photo 40,41,42).<br />

Photo 19<br />

jiita, 1960.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 20<br />

mgharet el kassarat, 1969.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Fig. 5<br />

fiche technique <strong>du</strong> jaugeage effectué en amont <strong>du</strong> déversoir lamarche par f. zoghbi.<br />

Photo 21<br />

le cheminement.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Fig. 6<br />

le point géodésique fixé sur le toit de la station de<br />

pompage (rive gauche) <strong>du</strong> cours subaérien <strong>du</strong> nahr<br />

el kelb.<br />

Fig. 7<br />

page <strong>du</strong> carnet de levé tachéométrique de g. dobroff.<br />

Photo 22<br />

dernière visée au niveau <strong>du</strong> siphon terminal. a la mire y. zakkour et f. zoghbi<br />

dans le canot pneumatique.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 23<br />

levé de détail.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

62 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 63


L’occasion se présente encore, de rappeler par la<br />

photographie documentaire un anniversaire qui ne devrait<br />

pas tomber dans l’oublie, celui de la très grande découverte<br />

par le <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> des ‘’Galeries Supérieures de<br />

Jiita.’’ (1958 - 2008).<br />

1958-2008<br />

Le cinquantenaire de la découverte des<br />

Galeries Supérieures de Jiita.<br />

Le mardi 8 juillet 2008 à 21h30 une émission télévisée<br />

a été consacrée aux grottes de Jiita. Le but avoué des<br />

organisateurs était, à l’occasion d’un vote international, de<br />

convaincre les téléspectateurs de classer cette grotte parmi les<br />

7 merveilles <strong>du</strong> monde (wonders of the world). L’interview<br />

en directe se déroulait à l’entrée des Galeries supérieures de<br />

Jiita. Faisaient face à l’animateur le gérant touristique des<br />

lieux, entouré de deux spéléologues confirmé-es appartenant<br />

à l’Association <strong>Liban</strong>aise des Etudes <strong>Spéléo</strong>logiques. Durant<br />

une heure trente, interrompue par de courtes publicités, nous<br />

avons eu droit à une réciprocité de compliments admiratifs<br />

et de monologues traitant de l’état d’âme face au monde<br />

souterrain des intervenant-es. Des Galeries supérieures nous<br />

n’avons enten<strong>du</strong> que des éloges concernant l’inimaginable<br />

beauté <strong>du</strong> lieu, de son aspect unique au monde, de son pilier<br />

stalagmitique géant, le plus grand <strong>du</strong> monde (sic le gérant)<br />

et de son souci permanent de protéger le milieu souterrain,<br />

tout en avouant sincèrement n’avoir aucune expérience<br />

spéléologique. En tout état de cause, je souhaiterai demander<br />

à ceux nombreux qui ont voté pour Jiita, s’ils ont eu l’occasion<br />

de voir, ne serait-ce qu’à titre comparatif, d’autres cavernes<br />

dans le monde. Ce choix était-il objectif pour nos autochtones<br />

ou simplement inspiré d’une impulsion nationaliste ?<br />

Par contre, les participants à cette haute émission<br />

télévisée n’ont à aucun moment signalé les circonstances<br />

de cette découverte remontant à 1958, dont les auteurs sont<br />

tous de nationalité libanaise et membres <strong>du</strong> <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong><br />

<strong>Liban</strong>. C’est à cette jeune équipe que revient l’initiative de<br />

son aménagement offert avec le plus grand désintéressement<br />

à la nation libanaise. Autre lacune, le silence entourant la<br />

réalisation de ce projet, à savoir son aménagement à grand<br />

frais par le Ministère <strong>du</strong> Tourisme et le Conseil National <strong>du</strong><br />

Tourisme dès 1967, puis l’inauguration <strong>du</strong> site au mois de<br />

janvier 1969 par un concert électroacoustique au coeur de<br />

la caverne. Autre occultation de taille, la reconnaissance qui<br />

aurait dû être faite à notre grand artiste et architecte Ghassan<br />

Klink à qui l’on doit l’aménagement élégant et sobre qui fait<br />

l’admiration des spécialistes de l’aménagement des grottes<br />

touristiques. Le court rappel historique qui suit, rafraîchira<br />

la mémoire de ceux qui l’auraient oublié. Je conclurais cette<br />

courte intro<strong>du</strong>ction par une tirade enten<strong>du</strong>e ou lue, attribuée à<br />

un grand homme d’Etat:<br />

L’ignorance délibérée des sources d’information peut-être<br />

qualifiée d’imposture intéllectuelle.<br />

Premier ticket émis lors de l’inauguration touristique<br />

de la “Rivière souterraine de Jiita”. J’aimerais rappeler<br />

que jusqu’à sa fermeture en 1975 pour cause de guerre,<br />

les touristes naviguaient sur six cents mètres en période<br />

d’affluence et huit cents mètres en période de calme. Qu’en<br />

est-il aujourd’hui ? Circuit ré<strong>du</strong>it hélas à deux cents cinquante<br />

mètres.<br />

premier ticket émis lors de l’inauguration touristique de la “rivière souterraine de jiita”.<br />

j’aimerais rappeler que jusqu’à sa fermeture en 1975 pour cause de guerre, les touristes<br />

naviguaient sur six cents mètres en période d’affluence et huit cents mètres en période de<br />

calme. Qu’en est-il aujourd’hui ? circuit ré<strong>du</strong>it hélas à deux cents cinquante mètres.<br />

Rappel historique.<br />

Les spéléologues libanais ont toujours été intrigués par<br />

la hauteur inaccoutumée de la rivière souterraine de Jiita, à<br />

environ 500 mètres de la résurgence. Au lieu dit “Rapides<br />

Bliss” le cours d’eau se rétrécie. La rive droite en raison d’un<br />

haut-fond caillouteux n’est pas praticable pour nos canots<br />

pneumatiques. Du plafond de la rive gauche tombe de belles<br />

draperies au travers desquelles la rivière s’écoule rapide. Il<br />

faut s’agripper aux draperies pour le franchir. Maxwell dans<br />

son récit d’expédition” The grottoes of the Nahr el Kelb” de<br />

1875 le baptise “Bliss’ Straits”. En voici en extrait :<br />

...Two hundred yards further on the channel was found<br />

to be so narrow that only one craft could pass at a time,<br />

and the roof so low that the explorers had to stoop under<br />

gigantic fringes of stalactite, one mass which resembled the<br />

convolutions of an elepfant’s trunk, while others were thin<br />

and shell-like, and when struck gave forth a sound like that a<br />

deep-toned bells. Maxwell baptisa ce lieu : Bliss’ Straits et les<br />

concrétions Elephant Trunk.<br />

A 12m en amont des Rapides Bliss et sur la rive<br />

gauche, un important cône d’éboulis de 15mx16m et 10m<br />

de haut se déverse et bloque partiellement le cours d’eau<br />

souterrain. En temps de crue, la rivière entraîne une partie<br />

de la caillasse et la dépose en aval au niveau de l‘elephant’s<br />

trunk. La rivière ainsi endiguée par ce bouchon barrage,<br />

creuse et se fraye un passage sous les draperies provoquant un<br />

mini rapide.<br />

Cet éboulis nous intriguait. Nous apercevions à la<br />

lumière bien ré<strong>du</strong>ite de nos acétylènes et lampes à pression<br />

une importante ouverture à sa droite. Un obstacle d’une<br />

dizaine de mètres de haut en défendait l’accès. Il y eut bien<br />

quelques tentatives d’escalade en libre, bien vite abandonnées<br />

en raison de l’instabilité de la roche. Il ne restait plus qu’à<br />

tenter de franchir l’obstacle au moyen <strong>du</strong> mât télescopique.<br />

Photo 24<br />

rapides Bliss - concrétions connues sous le nom de”Trompe d’éléphant ou oreilles d’éléphant”.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

1958<br />

La découverte des Galeries Supérieures.<br />

J’ai toujours affirmé que l’exploration d’une grotte est<br />

une oeuvre collective et l’honneur de la découverte revient<br />

à l’ensemble des membres de l’équipe en action. Je ferai<br />

une exception dans le cas de la découverte des “Galeries<br />

Supérieures de Jiita”. Le mât est monté et dressé contre la<br />

paroi (Photo 25). A son extrémité supérieure est accroché une<br />

échelle souple. Raymond Khawam est le premier à l’emprunter.<br />

Il débouche sur une corniche large de deux mètres. Nous<br />

sommes à environ 18 mètres au-dessus <strong>du</strong> niveau de la rivière.<br />

La corniche bute contre une vire étroite et rejoint une coulée<br />

de pierres instables. Il devient évident qu’elle est à l’origine <strong>du</strong><br />

gros cône d’éboulis formé au niveau de la rivière.<br />

Georges Farra assuré par une longueur confortable de<br />

Photo 26<br />

le spectacle grandiose qui se révèle à nos yeux.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 27<br />

les fondateurs <strong>du</strong> scl. dans une des galeries de jiita. de gauche à<br />

droite : r. khawam, a. anavy et l. gorra.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 25<br />

le mât télescopique dit “mât t grenoblois” imaginé par f. petlz (1958).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

corde entreprend prudemment son ascension. Il atteint 15 mètres<br />

plus haut une large plateforme à l’abri des chutes de pierres. Il<br />

est rapidement rejoint par ses co-équipiers. Au-delà, le paysage<br />

est grandiose (Photo 45). La voie est ouverte pour les futures<br />

explorations.<br />

Quelques jours plus tard R. Khawam, R. Kasparian et moimême,<br />

reprenons en l’absence de notre ami G. Farra parti au US<br />

pour des études de pilotage, l’exploration de ce nouveau réseau.<br />

C’est alors une promenade le long de draperies translucides, de<br />

gours étagés, de colonnettes de toutes tailles et de piliers géants.<br />

L’excitation est à son comble et nous invitons à tour de rôle les<br />

membres de notre club à découvrir les lieux, sans oublier d’en<br />

faire profiter le personnel actif de l’exploitation touristique (Photo<br />

28 et Photo 29).<br />

Photo 28<br />

un petit groupe de bateliers de jiita. de gauche à<br />

droite : y. Baroud, j. aziz, r. farrah, m. nseir et en<br />

avant plan mon fidèle m. hajj.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

64 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 65


Photo 29<br />

le caterpillar déblayant la partie terminale <strong>du</strong><br />

tunnel. a l’extrême gauche, la petite ouverture<br />

donnant accès directe aux “galeries supérieures”.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

C’est en 1962 que l’engouement des touristes pour<br />

la grotte de Jiita, entraîne une situation inextricable (plus<br />

de 2000 visiteurs par jour). La seule solution envisageable<br />

pour décongestionner la rivière souterraine était de rendre<br />

accessible par voie pédestre les galeries supérieures. Il fallait<br />

pour cela convaincre les autorités compétentes de réaliser<br />

ce projet. Or “les galeries supérieures” ne sont accessibles<br />

que par la rivière souterraine. Il était évident que pour une<br />

exploitation rationnelle, il fallait un moyen plus direct pour les<br />

atteindre, d’où le choix d’un tunnel. Un relevé topographique<br />

des lieux établi par G. Dobroff avait déjà déterminé la voie<br />

d’accès. Ce n’est qu’au mois de juillet 1963 que le Président<br />

de la République le Général Fouad Chéhab donne des ordres<br />

destinés à réaliser le projet. En 1967, le projet devait voir le<br />

jour.<br />

Le Tunnel d’accès aux « Galeries Supérieures ».<br />

Août 1967 : le tunnel de 120 m de long est enfin percé. Il<br />

aboutit avec grande précision dans le prolongement de la<br />

galerie s’ouvrant plein sud (Photo 29 et 30).<br />

Ghassan Klink<br />

1967 - L’aménagement touristique des Galeries Supérieures<br />

par l’artiste et architecte G. Klink (Photo 31).<br />

Le programme de l’architecte n’était pas simple.<br />

Il fallait allier la technique à l’esthétique, soumettre<br />

les impératifs fonctionnels, cheminement, escalier, rampe, à<br />

l’harmonie des lieux. Le choix <strong>du</strong> béton a été retenu pour ses<br />

qualités plastiques et sculpturales. Le cheminement intérieur<br />

sera constitué d’un long ruban en béton rappelant les méandres<br />

<strong>du</strong> cours de la rivière souterraine (Photo 36). La pierre de taille<br />

enjolivera les courbes des escaliers. Il faudra aussi édifier un<br />

pont au niveau des gours créant l’illusion de flottement. Quant<br />

au grand escalier reliant la partie basse à la partie haute, il sera<br />

conçu comme un ruban on<strong>du</strong>lant au dessus <strong>du</strong> précipice<br />

(Photo 37, 39). Les câbles électriques destinés à l’éclairage<br />

seront fixés sous les passerelles et consoles <strong>du</strong> circuit<br />

touristique. Pour rappel l’éclairage avait été confié à M. Khalil<br />

Gannouni, haut fonctionnaire auprès de la centrale électrique<br />

de Zouk Mikhaël.<br />

Janvier 1969. Inauguration des “Galeries supérieures”<br />

en présence de son excellence M Charles Hélou Président de<br />

la République <strong>Liban</strong>aise, de M le Premier Ministre Rachid<br />

Karamé de Cheikh Michel el Khoury et de Mme Nadia<br />

Kettaneh (Photo 32).<br />

Photo 30<br />

les ouvriers affectés au percement <strong>du</strong> tunnel posant à l’intérieure de la grotte.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 31<br />

ghassan klink au pied d’une paroi<br />

stalagmitique dans les “galeries<br />

supérieures” (1967).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

L’occasion se présente à nous pour remercier Cheikh<br />

Michel el Khoury et Mme Nadia Kettaneh pour la réalisation<br />

de ce projet, faute de quoi celui-ci serait demeuré au stade<br />

hypothétique d’étude.<br />

Nous l’avions déjà dit dans un autre contexte que<br />

la réalisation de l’architecte Ghassan Klink ne pouvait se<br />

matérialiser sans la collaboration étroite des membres <strong>du</strong><br />

<strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>, familiers des lieux, mais, plus encore,<br />

riches en expériences quant aux visites et explorations<br />

de nombreuses grottes aménagées de par le monde.<br />

L’environnement extérieur de la caverne devait aussi être<br />

préservé. Le parking destiné aux visiteurs demeure en soi un<br />

chef d’oeuvre architectural (Photo 40).<br />

Plus encore, il a été décidé de préserver le charme<br />

sauvage de l’accès par la route à la rivière souterraine et<br />

aux Galeries Supérieures. A cet effet il a été prévu dans<br />

les bâtiments <strong>du</strong> départ et d’arrivée de la télécabine, des<br />

locaux destinés à une exploitation commerciale collatérale<br />

incluant,musée de spéléologique, restaurants et magasins de<br />

souvenirs. La visite des grottes pour ceux qui souhaitaient<br />

marcher serait une promenade en milieu naturel et sans artifice<br />

alentour. En 1972, les autorités responsables confièrent à<br />

Ghassan Klink le soin de réaménager l’accès de la rivière<br />

souterraine dans le but d’homogénéiser l’exploitation<br />

touristique.<br />

Photo 32<br />

l’occasion se présente à nous pour remercier sheikh michel el khoury et mme<br />

nadia kettaneh pour la réalisation de ce projet, faute de quoi celui-ci serait<br />

demeuré au stade hypothétique d’étude.<br />

Photo 33<br />

les travaux à l’intérieur de la grotte ont nécessité une<br />

main-d’oeuvre qualifiée et une surveillance soutenue.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 40<br />

la rampe d’accès <strong>du</strong><br />

parking, de par ses<br />

circonvolutions reprenait<br />

le même schéma que le<br />

cheminement intérieur des<br />

galeries supérieures.<br />

Photo 34<br />

le pont flottant par dessus les gours.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 38<br />

vers l’embarcadère.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 36<br />

le cheminement en<br />

méandre rappelant<br />

celui de la rivière<br />

souterraine.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 37<br />

la passerelle sur<br />

console au dessus <strong>du</strong><br />

précipice dominant<br />

de 55 m la rivière<br />

souterraine.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 39<br />

le porche d’entrée<br />

historique. c’est de là que<br />

pénétrèrent les premiers<br />

explorateurs dès 1836.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 35<br />

le grand escalier on<strong>du</strong>lant au-dessus <strong>du</strong> précipice.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

66 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 67


Photo 41<br />

‘la monumentale sculpture’.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Qu’en est-il aujourd’hui ? Peut-on affirmer que la<br />

nouvelle exploitation <strong>du</strong> complexe touristique a respecté<br />

le programme initial signalé plus haut. La route accédant<br />

aux grottes est parsemée de bas reliefs et de sculptures<br />

d’une effarante laideur. Je donnerai à titre d’exemple celui<br />

de la monumentale sculpture (Photo 41) qui obstrue la vue<br />

panoramique de l’entrée historique de la rivière souterraine.<br />

J’occulterai la présence ridicule d’un mini zoo et celui non<br />

moins polluant <strong>du</strong> train tracté au moteur à mazout (Photo 42)<br />

et de l’ensemble pitoyable d’un micro Disney Land de goût<br />

douteux. Je m’abstiendrai aussi de signaler la dégradation<br />

intérieure des Galeries Supérieures qui prend des allures de<br />

catastrophe tout au moins (et pour l’instant) dans ses cents<br />

premiers mètres.<br />

Autres aberrances qui est hélas pléthore. Je n’en<br />

choisirai que deux d’entre elles.<br />

a - Les stalagmites artificielles suspen<strong>du</strong>es à l’entrée<br />

<strong>du</strong> tunnel des ‘Galeries Supérieures’ (Photo 43). Témoignage<br />

inapproprié si non ridicule vue l’étonnante et riche perspective<br />

concrétionnée que découvre le visiteur au débouché <strong>du</strong> tunnel.<br />

b - La sculpture de Rudy Rahmeh intitulée: Moulin <strong>du</strong><br />

temps, exposée à proximité <strong>du</strong> tunnel d’accès des “Galeries<br />

supérieures” est terrifiante à savoir ce personnage à tête<br />

couronnée d’épines et recroquevillé dans une fourche<br />

Photo 42<br />

le train tracté au moteur à mazout.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 43<br />

les stalagmites artificielles suspen<strong>du</strong>es à l’entrée <strong>du</strong> tunnel<br />

des ‘galeries supérieures’<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

(Photo 42). L’ensemble de cet appareillage (fourche + roue)<br />

n’est-il pas plus proche d’un instrument de torture que celui<br />

<strong>du</strong> mécanisme d’un moulin ? L’homme est-il destiné à être<br />

écrasé et ré<strong>du</strong>it à des débris humains à l’instar de ceux qui<br />

jonchent la plate-forme à ses pieds, ou simplement rappeler<br />

à l’homme son court passage terrestre. Représentation<br />

surréaliste et visionnaire non loin de rappeler les oeuvres de<br />

William Blake et de Gibran Khalil Gibran. Qu’a t’on besoin<br />

de tant de violence et de vision apocalyptique de monstres et<br />

êtres hybrides ?<br />

En place n’aurait-il pas été plus heureux de représenter<br />

par une maquette une coupe instructive et é<strong>du</strong>cative <strong>du</strong><br />

développement des ‘Galeries Supérieures’, en indiquant les<br />

auteurs (<strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>), la date de la découverte, de<br />

leurs ouvertures au public et signaler les maîtres d’oeuvre de<br />

son aménagement ?<br />

En conclusion, la photographie documentaire demeure<br />

un témoignage irremplaçable d’un passé révolu et dans le cas<br />

de Jiita un triste constat.<br />

68 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 69<br />

photographs of various jiita expeditions (Photos by issam Bou Jaoude, Johnny Tawk, Marwan Zgheib & Rena Karanouh).


ARCHEOLOGY<br />

Fig. 1<br />

preliminary observation of one hip bone reveal the<br />

presence of osteoarthritis of the femoral head.<br />

(Photo by Assad saif)<br />

Fig. 2<br />

The pierced shell, a cardium sea shell.<br />

(Photo by Assad saif)<br />

Fig. 3<br />

piece of wood found with the skeleton.<br />

(Photo by Assad saif)<br />

Assaad Seif | assadseif@culture.gov.lb<br />

HOUET mechane 4<br />

preliminary analysis of The archaeological maTerial<br />

Fig. 4<br />

pot is typical of the middle of the<br />

4 th millennium Bc.<br />

(Photo by Assad saif)<br />

Fig. 6<br />

a combed body sherd.<br />

(Photo by Assad saif)<br />

Fig. 5<br />

The small jug.<br />

(Photo by Assad saif)<br />

Published earlier in ‘<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ‘Ouat 13’, this cave<br />

was discovered in 2003 by the SCL.<br />

In the section ‘A’ levels 1 and 2 of this six level<br />

cave, a tomb with archaeological material was found.<br />

Moreover, some scattered sherds were collected for<br />

analysis.<br />

I had the chance to visit the cave and observe<br />

the tomb location in addition to the collected material.<br />

Consequently, a preliminary analysis of the discoveries<br />

was done which revealed a long term use of the cave<br />

namely for funerary practices.<br />

The archaeological maTerial<br />

The material collected by the SCL in the year 2000<br />

included bones, one pierced cardium shell, a piece of<br />

wood, two almost complete pots and 19 pottery sherds<br />

collected from different parts of section A of the cave.<br />

As stated earlier in “<strong>Al</strong>-ouat ‘ouat 13”, the bones<br />

were partially smashed by falling rocks, still, some were<br />

intact. They included some long bones, short bones,<br />

vertebrae, a few ribs and parts of the skull. A preliminary<br />

observation of one hip bone revealed the presence of<br />

osteoarthritis of the femoral head (fig.1). Further analysis<br />

of the bones will shed more light on the approximate age,<br />

sex, diseases and diet of the inhumated indivi<strong>du</strong>al, thus<br />

giving us more insight into his/her daily life and activity.<br />

2003 ةنس يف 4 ناشم ةراغم لخاد يف فاشتكا ّمت<br />

,بشخ ,فادصا ,ةيخيرات ةربقم نمضتي يرثا عقوم<br />

اذه يف ملاعلا قرطتي .ةمطحمو ةلماك تايراخف<br />

.ةيملعلا هتلاولدمو فاشتكلاا اذه ةيمها ىلا لاقملا<br />

The pierced shell is a cardium sea shell found<br />

abundantly on the Lebanese coast (Fig. 2). This shell was<br />

obviously used as a necklace and deposited with the deceased<br />

as it was most probably of his/her personal belongings. Many<br />

examples of this type of funerary material are found on the<br />

coast especially within the tombs of Byblos.<br />

The piece of wood found with the skeleton is in rather<br />

good condition (Fig. 3). This throws doubt on its contextuality<br />

and depositional dynamic; it could be a later intrusion. Still a<br />

dendrochronology or C14 analysis could ascertain its nature,<br />

date and origin.<br />

The almost complete pottery types consist of a pot<br />

with two lateral handles, and a small jug. The pot is typical of<br />

the middle of the 4 th millennium, BC (Fig. 4). It has two handles<br />

connecting the top shoulders to the upper part of the neck,<br />

almost to the level of the rim. These handles have a chevron<br />

impressed design on their surface. Many examples of this<br />

type were found in the “énéolithique” tombs of Byblos. The<br />

same goes for the small jug (Fig. 5), thus forming a coherent<br />

ensemble with the pot.<br />

Among the 19 pottery sherds, one combed body<br />

sherd (fig.6) was identified dating from the Early Bronze II-<br />

III period (end of the 4 th millennium, BC – beginning of the<br />

third millennium, BC). Another rim sherd with internal light<br />

horizontal combing was also collected (Fig. 7); this type of<br />

surface treatment is typical of the Early Bronze IV and Middle<br />

Bronze I periods (end of the third millennium and beginning of<br />

the second millennium BC). Examples of this light combing<br />

can be found in the akkar region and on the northern coast as<br />

well as in the Qadisha valley.<br />

Fig. 7<br />

rim sherd with internal light horizontal combing.<br />

(Photo by Assad saif)<br />

Fig. 8<br />

Two terra sigilata sherds dating from the roman period.<br />

(Photo by Assad saif)<br />

houeT mechane 4<br />

preliminary analysis of The archaeological maTerial<br />

découverte en l’an 2000 par le sCl, cette grotte s’est avérée contenir dans ses deux premiers niveaux une<br />

tombe avec plusieurs éléments archéologiques incluant des os, une coquille de cardium percée, un bout de<br />

bois, deux pots presque entiers et dix-neuf morceaux en argile. l’auteur a eu la chance de visiter cette grotte<br />

une fois de plus et en a fait une évaluation préliminaire présentée dans cet article.<br />

Two terra sigilata sherds dating from the roman period<br />

were also found (Fig. 8).<br />

Nine other body sherds could be easily dated to the<br />

middle 4 th millennium BC because of their fabric and surface<br />

treatment. The remaining 8 sherds were non diagnostic; still their<br />

fabric and surface treatment may indicate a later date.<br />

In addition to the above mentioned archaeological<br />

material, scattered sherds especially with combed surfaces<br />

were found incrusted within the calcite bed in level 2 section A<br />

of the cave. Those sherds could have been brought down by the<br />

sediments or they could have been part of the material of other<br />

tombs destroyed by later natural or anthropic activity.<br />

preliminary conclusions<br />

Our knowledge of early as well as later period settlement<br />

in the Nahr Ibrahim Valley is presently very limited and this<br />

largely results from the lack of research undertaken in this<br />

region.<br />

However, most of the discovered sites are located in the<br />

upper valley rather than in the lower mountain belt as is the case<br />

with the Mechane cave. Moreover few of the discovered sites in<br />

the valley date from the Bronze Age. The few Bronze Age sites<br />

of the high lands are Yanuh, Tadmor and the cave of St. John<br />

(Mgharet Mar Hanna), which makes the Mechane cave the only<br />

evidence of this period in the lower mountain belt region.<br />

Out of all the sites found in the Nahr Ibrahim Valley,<br />

Mechane Cave provides the most pertinent evidence for longterm<br />

occupation in the Valley (4 th millennium BC until the roman<br />

period). Furthermore, the similarity between the material culture<br />

found in the cave and that at the major sites along the coast,<br />

indicates that the two areas participated in a common dynamic<br />

of cultural exchange.<br />

More intensive and systematic surveys in this region<br />

are likely to reveal many more sites and add to the evidence of<br />

continuity in settlement history.<br />

BiBliography<br />

-Abul-Nour, H. & Salamé-Sarkis, H. 1991. Trogloditisme mediéval au <strong>Liban</strong> : Premières<br />

données. Berytus XXXiX : 177-187.<br />

-Beayno, F., Mattar, C. & Ab<strong>du</strong>l-Nour, H. 2002. Mgharet al-Hourriyé (Karm Saddé,<br />

Caza de Zgharta). Rapport préliminaire de la fouille de 2001. Bulletin d’Archéologie et<br />

d’Architecture libanaises 6: 135-178.<br />

-Buikstra, J.E. & Ubelaker, D.H. 1994. standards for data Collection From Human<br />

skeletal Remains, Arkansas Archaeological Survey Research Series No. 44, Arkansas,<br />

USA.<br />

-Dunand, M. 1937. Fouilles de Byblos, 1926-1932, i. Paris, Geuthner.<br />

-Dunand, M. 1950. Fouilles de Byblos, 1933-1938, ii. Paris, Geuthner.<br />

-Dunand, M. 1973. Fouilles de Byblos V, Paris, Geuthner.<br />

-Gatier, P-L. et al. 2001. « Mission de Yanouh et de la haute vallé <strong>du</strong> Nahr Ibrahim,<br />

Rapport préliminaire 1999-2001 », Bulletin d’Archéologie et d’Architecture libanaises<br />

5: 93-152.<br />

-Gatier, P-L. et al. 2002. « Mission de Yanouh et de la haute vallé <strong>du</strong> Nahr Ibrahim,<br />

Rapport préliminaire 2002 », Bulletin d’Archéologie et d’Architecture libanaises 6:<br />

211-258.<br />

-Gatier, P-L. et al. 2004. « Mission de Yanouh et de la haute vallé <strong>du</strong> Nahr Ibrahim,<br />

Rapport préliminaire 2003-2004 », Bulletin d’Archéologie et d’Architecture libanaises<br />

8: 119-210.<br />

-Mann, R.W. & Hunt, D.R. 2005. Photographic Regional Atlas of Bone diseases: a<br />

guide to Pathologic and Normal Variation in the Human skeleton, Charles C Thomas<br />

Publishers LTD, Illinois, USA.<br />

-Mays, S. 1999. The Archaeology of Human Bones, Routledge, London and N.Y.<br />

70 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 71


CAVE<br />

BIOLOGY<br />

Ivan Horáček | horacek@natur.cuni.cz<br />

Petr Benda | petr.benda@nm.cz<br />

Riyad Sadek | rsadek@aub.e<strong>du</strong>.lb<br />

Sami Karkabi | kraks@cyberia.net.lb<br />

Mounir Abi-Said | mabisaid@cyberia.net.lb<br />

Radekk Lučan | rlucan@centrum.cz<br />

Marcel Uhrin | marcel.uhrin@gmail.com<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude | iboujaoude@gmail.com<br />

Rena Karanouh | renakaranouh@hotmail.com<br />

Samir Akil | samir.akil@gmail.com<br />

BaT census<br />

IN LEBANESE CAVES<br />

2008 & 2009<br />

Following the article published in the Ouat’Oaute<br />

Magazine issue 14 and in frame of the monitoring project of<br />

bat population in Lebanese caves proposed by Horáček et al.<br />

( * 2008) a bat survey was con<strong>du</strong>cted in almost 21 different<br />

caves in the year 2008 and 17 caves in the year 2009 mostly<br />

in the same way con<strong>du</strong>cted in 2007. The two seasons<br />

revealed startling new discoveries. A simple key for visual<br />

bat identification is highlighted at the end of the article to aid<br />

cavers in continuous monitoring such a delicate species.<br />

resulTs of The 2nd season<br />

From 16 January to 25 January 2008 controls in 21<br />

Lebanese caves, mostly those inspected in the same way<br />

also in January 2007. The results of the census (surveyed in<br />

Table 1) revealed the following picture:<br />

(1) We found no essential differences from the previous<br />

winter (2007) in species composition, proportion of particular<br />

species and abundances in particular caves and in general.<br />

This suggests a recurrent pattern of inhabitation of the<br />

respective underground spaces by bats in winter and, hence,<br />

a promise of a reliable output of the monitoring project.<br />

(2) The large hibernating colonies found in 2007<br />

appeared either at the same place (Miniopterus schreibersii<br />

in Er Rouiss) or in different chambers of the same cave<br />

(Rhinolophus ferrumequinum in Afqa), in both the caves<br />

the total numbers were even higher than in 2007. In Afqa,<br />

the colony was splitted in four clusters (39, 33, 10, 9 ind.)<br />

and number of solitary indivi<strong>du</strong>als mostly roosting closer to<br />

entrace than in 2007. The similar pattern was observed also<br />

in other sites and also an incidence of active or semi-active<br />

bats was higher than in 2007.<br />

(3) Apparently, the winter 2008 has been undoubtedly<br />

warmer than that in 2007, snow cover was much less<br />

pronounced at time of census, temperature in low altitude<br />

caves was higher etc. In contrast to 2007, oranges were<br />

fully ripe and the fruit bats started already to feed on them.<br />

لبق نم ايرود اهتبقارمو شيفافخلا حسم تايلمعل روصت عضو دعب<br />

شيفافخلل حسم ةيلمعب ةساردلا هذه يعضاو ماق . )كشتروه 2007(<br />

ةئاج حسملا جئاتن .نانبل لخاد ةراغم 22 يف 2009 و 2008 ةنس<br />

.حسملا اذه ةيمها نيبتل شيفافخلا دادعاو ماقرلا ةفرشم<br />

Cet article montre les résultats de la 2ème et 3ème saison de<br />

recensement des chauves-souris dans les grottes libanaises,<br />

dans le cadre <strong>du</strong> projet de surveillance proposé par Horáček<br />

et al. en 2007. les auteurs nous propose d’observer 22<br />

grottes libanaises entre Janvier 2008 et 2009.<br />

In all colonies of that species, the average body condition of<br />

fruit bats was excellent - great contrast to situation in 2007<br />

when these bats show obvious signs of starvation. In three of<br />

four colonies controlled in winter 2007 we found a significant<br />

increase of abundance (by about 20% on avergage).<br />

(4) In fissures at entrances of two caves (Achou, Afqa)<br />

we found hibernating indivi<strong>du</strong>als of Pipistrellus pipistrellus and<br />

Myotis capaccinnii, not found there in 2007, which also can be<br />

ascribed to specific climatic conditions of 2008.<br />

resulTs of The 3nd season<br />

From 14 December to 25 February 2009 controls in 12<br />

Lebanese caves, mostly those inspected in the same way also<br />

in January 2007. The results of the census (surveyed in Table<br />

2) revealed the following interesting observation:<br />

(1)There is a noticeable increase in number of bats in<br />

large hibernating colonies. In the Roueiss cave roost which<br />

was found in the same place as the year 2008 a noticeable 4%<br />

increase was observed.<br />

(2) Two major new colonies were also found. One in<br />

Marjaba mines a roost of 700 Greater Horseshoe bat, R.<br />

ferrumequinum was discovered in the galleries of a newly<br />

discovered Marjaba mine (not controlled in previous years),<br />

and a colony of 69 bats of Miniopterus schreibersii was found<br />

in the Achou cave.<br />

(3) Apparently the winter of 2009 is a bit colder and came<br />

earlier than the previous year that is most probably why the<br />

bats were found in large quantities. The snow covered most of<br />

the mountains.<br />

(4) In fissures at entrances of two caves (Afqa, Roueiss<br />

& Marjaba) we found hibernating indivi<strong>du</strong>als of Myotis<br />

capaccinnii and eptesieus serotinos not found there in 2008.<br />

(5) The next years of the census are expected to answer<br />

which of the above mentioned differences may refer to some<br />

general trends.<br />

BAT SURVEYOF2008 BAT SURVEYOF2008 Locality<br />

Locality<br />

Table 1<br />

results of 2008 winter bat census of the lebanese caves<br />

BAT SURVEY OF 2009<br />

BAT SURVEY OF 2009<br />

Locality<br />

Locality<br />

Raeg Rfer Reur Rhip Rbla Mcap Mbly Msch Nnoc Eser Phyp<br />

Raeg Rfer Reur Rhip Rbla Mcap Mbly Msch Nnoc Eser Phyp<br />

L20<br />

L20<br />

L59<br />

L59<br />

L48<br />

L48<br />

L57<br />

L57<br />

L70<br />

L70<br />

L21<br />

L21<br />

L-54<br />

L-54<br />

L51<br />

L51<br />

L-25<br />

L-25<br />

L-25<br />

L-25<br />

L-18<br />

L-18<br />

L-37<br />

L-37<br />

L-32<br />

L-32<br />

L-31<br />

L-31<br />

L-15<br />

L-15<br />

L-14<br />

L-14<br />

L-64<br />

L-64<br />

L65<br />

L65<br />

Table 2<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

M. Lebanon<br />

Tripoli<br />

Tripoli<br />

Tripoli<br />

Tripoli<br />

Chekka<br />

Chekka<br />

Chekka<br />

Chekka<br />

Aamchit<br />

Aamchit<br />

Antelias<br />

Antelias<br />

Antelias<br />

Antelias<br />

Marjaba<br />

Marjaba<br />

Jezzine<br />

Jezzine<br />

Jezzine<br />

Jezzine<br />

South<br />

South<br />

South<br />

South<br />

Rouiss Cave<br />

Rouiss Cave<br />

Seraaya Cave<br />

Seraaya Cave<br />

Bechara Cave<br />

Bechara Cave<br />

Terrash cave=Qana Cave<br />

Terrash cave=Qana Cave<br />

Nabaa el Mghara Cave<br />

Nabaa el Mghara Cave<br />

Afqa Cave<br />

Afqa Cave<br />

Achou Cave<br />

Achou Cave<br />

Matal el Azrak<br />

Matal el Azrak<br />

Musailha Castle<br />

Musailha Castle<br />

Gallery near Musailha Castle<br />

Gallery near Musailha Castle<br />

Saleh Cave<br />

Saleh Cave<br />

Kanaan Cave<br />

Kanaan Cave<br />

El-Kassarat Cave<br />

El-Kassarat Cave<br />

Marjaba Mines/8 galleries<br />

Marjaba Mines/8 galleries<br />

Water spring Gallery<br />

Water spring Gallery<br />

Cellar in a house<br />

Cellar in a house<br />

Mgharet el Ouataouit<br />

Mgharet el Ouataouit<br />

Mgharet el Aaonamine<br />

Mgharet el Aaonamine<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

14 Dec. 2008<br />

14 Dec. 2008<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

11 Feb. 2009<br />

18 Feb. 2009<br />

18 Feb. 2009<br />

18 Feb. 2009<br />

18 Feb. 2009<br />

1 Feb. 2009<br />

1 Feb. 2009<br />

16 Mar. 2009<br />

16 Mar. 2009<br />

8 Feb. 2009<br />

8 Feb. 2009<br />

23 Feb. 2009<br />

23 Feb. 2009<br />

23 Feb. 2009<br />

23 Feb. 2009<br />

24 Feb. 2009<br />

24 Feb. 2009<br />

25 Feb. 2009<br />

25 Feb. 2009<br />

26 Feb. 2009<br />

26 Feb. 2009<br />

2 Feb. 2009<br />

2 Feb. 2009<br />

2 Feb. 2009<br />

2 Feb. 2009<br />

300<br />

300<br />

150<br />

150<br />

100<br />

100<br />

400<br />

400<br />

820<br />

820<br />

20<br />

20<br />

2 6 8 28<br />

28<br />

2 1<br />

10<br />

10<br />

700<br />

700<br />

1 4 4 4<br />

4 1 2<br />

2 3 4<br />

1<br />

2<br />

1 1<br />

1300<br />

1300<br />

17<br />

17<br />

13<br />

13<br />

69<br />

69<br />

1<br />

results of 2009 winter bat census of the lebanese caves<br />

72 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 73<br />

Date<br />

Date<br />

Date<br />

Date<br />

BAT SPECIES<br />

BAT SPECIES<br />

Raeg<br />

Raeg<br />

Rfer<br />

Rfer<br />

Rhip<br />

Rhip<br />

Rbla<br />

Rbla<br />

Mcap<br />

Mcap<br />

Mbly<br />

Mbly<br />

Msch<br />

Msch<br />

Ppip<br />

Ppip<br />

Eser<br />

Eser<br />

Hsav<br />

Hsav<br />

Phyp<br />

Phyp<br />

L20 M. Lebanon Rouiss Cave 17-Jan-08 16 2 1250<br />

L20 M. Lebanon Rouiss Cave 17-Jan-08 16 2 1250<br />

L59 M. Lebanon Seraaya Cave 21-Jan-08 5 3<br />

L59 M. Lebanon Seraaya Cave 21-Jan-08 5 3<br />

L48 M. Lebanon Bechara Cave 21-Jan-08<br />

L48 M. Lebanon Bechara Cave 21-Jan-08<br />

L57 M. Lebanon Terrash cave=Qana Cave 20-Jan-08 7 2<br />

L57 M. Lebanon Terrash cave=Qana Cave 20-Jan-08 7 2<br />

L21 M. Lebanon Afqa Cave 17-Jan-08 99 12 2 5 1 ?<br />

L21 M. Lebanon Afqa Cave 17-Jan-08 99 12 2 5 1 ?<br />

L69 M. Lebanon Aabadi cave 22-Jan-08 200<br />

L69 M. Lebanon Aabadi cave 22-Jan-08 200<br />

L50 M. Lebanon Nabaa el Saqia cave 20-Jan-08 7<br />

L50 M. Lebanon Nabaa el Saqia cave 20-Jan-08 7<br />

L-54 Tripoli Achou Cave 18-Jan-08 1 4 1 3 7<br />

L-54 Tripoli Achou Cave 18-Jan-08 1 4 1 3 7<br />

L51 Tripoli Matal el Azrak 18-Jan-083005 1<br />

L51 Tripoli Matal el Azrak 18-Jan-083005 1<br />

L-25 Chekka Musailha Castle<br />

18-Jan-08<br />

1<br />

L-25 Chekka Musailha Castle<br />

18-Jan-08<br />

1<br />

L-25b Chekka Gallery near Musailha Castle 18-Jan-08<br />

1<br />

L-25b Chekka Gallery near Musailha Castle 18-Jan-08<br />

1<br />

L-18 Aamchit Saleh Cave 22-Jan-08 150 4 3<br />

L-18 Aamchit Saleh Cave 22-Jan-08 150 4 3<br />

L-37 Antelias Kanaan Cave 25-Jan-08 100<br />

L-37 Antelias Kanaan Cave 25-Jan-08 100<br />

L-32 Antelias El-Kassarat Cave 25-Jan-08 400<br />

L-32 Antelias El-Kassarat Cave 25-Jan-08 400<br />

L-31 Marjaba Marjaba Mines/7 galleries 21-Jan-08 4 7<br />

1<br />

L-31 Marjaba Marjaba Mines/7 galleries 21-Jan-08 4 7<br />

1<br />

L-15 Jezzine Water spring Gallery 24-Jan-08<br />

L-15 Jezzine Water spring Gallery 24-Jan-08<br />

L-14 Jezzine Cellar in a house 24-Jan-08 1<br />

L-14 Jezzine Cellar in a house 24-Jan-08 1<br />

L-64 South Mgharet el Ouataouit 19-Jan-08 850<br />

L-64 South Mgharet el Ouataouit 19-Jan-08 850<br />

L65 South Mgharet el Aaonamine 19-Jan-0820 1<br />

L65 South Mgharet el Aaonamine 19-Jan-0820 1<br />

L-10b Adloun cave 16-Jan-08 26<br />

L-10b Adloun cave 16-Jan-08 26<br />

L-41 Anjar Bekaa Anjar Cellis Cave 21-Jan-08<br />

L-41 Anjar Bekaa Anjar Cellis Cave 21-Jan-08<br />

L-42 Bekaa Kfar Zabad Cave 21-Jan-08 1 17<br />

L-42 Bekaa Kfar Zabad Cave 21-Jan-08 1 17<br />

BAT SPECIES<br />

BAT SPECIES


a simple key for visual idenTificaTion of leBanese cave BaTs<br />

1}<br />

Bats of very big size, usually in a larger colony, active<br />

in winter, with large eyes shining when illuminated by<br />

hand reflectors:<br />

EGypTian fRuiT baT<br />

ROuSETTuS AEgyPTIACuS<br />

2}<br />

Medium to large sized bats (8–12 cm of head and<br />

body length) freely sitting on walls, conspicuous by<br />

their long (as long as a body) tail freely extending<br />

from short membrane:<br />

MouSE-TaiLED baTS<br />

gENuS RhINOPOmA<br />

Apparently quite rare; it is highly recommended to<br />

catch an indivi<strong>du</strong>al, take measurements (forearm<br />

length 45–62 mm: R. cystops, 61–72 mm R.<br />

microphyllum) and a detailed picture or a voucher<br />

specimen.<br />

3}<br />

Bats freely hanging from a ceiling or at walls, when<br />

torpid usually wrapped in membranes, when active<br />

they are conspicuous for intensive location movements<br />

of head, soon fly away, at shorter distance you can<br />

note large membranous leaflet around nose through<br />

which they emit their echolocation calls:<br />

HoRSESHoE baTS<br />

gENuS RhINOlOPhuS<br />

<strong>Al</strong>l are typical cave-dwelling species.<br />

By visual identification you can easily distinguish<br />

three size categories:<br />

-A larger species (10 cm when hanging):<br />

Greater Horseshoe bat, R. ferrumequinum.<br />

-A small species (about 5 cm when hanging):<br />

Lesser Horseshoe bat, R. hipposideros.<br />

-Medium-sized species (about 8–10 cm when<br />

hanging).<br />

This is a bit more complicated category as there<br />

are several species which come in account in that<br />

category, all - in contrast to the preceeding two which<br />

are widespread) relatively rare or even not yet found<br />

in lebanon. It can be recommended to catch one, take<br />

a measurement (length of forearm) and examine shape<br />

of noseleaf and take its macrophotograph, eventually.<br />

Rhinolophus euryale, R. mehelyi and R. blasii are<br />

characteristic by a pointed central leaf (visible from a<br />

side view). The other possible species, Asellia tridens,<br />

not known from lebanon, is pale or rufous coloured<br />

and has a noseleaf of a completely different shape.<br />

Rousettus aegyptiacus<br />

in mtal al azrak cave<br />

(photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

a mouse-tailed bat<br />

(photo by I. Horáček )<br />

photograph of the mediterranean horse shoe bat found<br />

inside an old house in jezzine.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

4}<br />

Large bats (forearm length 75–95 mm, body length ca.<br />

15cm), roosting in fissures, elongated head with short<br />

and mutually separated auricles and naked belly:<br />

5}<br />

Smaller (body length ca. 7–8 cm), pale greyish brown<br />

coloured bats, often in large colonies hanging in cave<br />

ceiling, typically in spacious chambers deep inside<br />

the cave, short but broad auricles not extending dorsal<br />

profile of a rounded head:<br />

ScHREibER’S baT<br />

mINIOPTERuS SChREIBERSII<br />

Schreiber’s bat, Miniopterus schreibersii almost strict<br />

cave-dweller which colonies should be monitored with<br />

particular attention.<br />

6}<br />

Larger bats (length of body ca. 10–12 cm) with long<br />

elongated and pale coloured membranous auricles,<br />

either hanging from walls or roosting in crevices,<br />

forming summer large colonies in high chambers inside<br />

the cave:<br />

LaRGER & LESSER MouSE-EaRED baTS<br />

myOTIS myOTIS and m. BlyThII<br />

Sibling species, both cave-dwellers, which can be<br />

separated essentially only with genetical techniques,<br />

the former is larger and has a more eliptic and broader<br />

auricle.<br />

7}<br />

The remaining species which do not correspond to<br />

any of the above mentioned characteristics, are not the<br />

typical cave-dwellers, occupy preferably crevices in<br />

rocks, in shallow caves or in cave entrances. In most<br />

instances these are rare species which identification<br />

is not easy as a rule and should be supplemented with<br />

a detailed examination of an indivi<strong>du</strong>al in hand. This<br />

holds true also for the two species which preferably<br />

roost in caves.<br />

GEoffRoy’S baT<br />

myOTIS EmARgINATuS ANd<br />

lONg-fINgEREd BAT, m. CAPACCINII<br />

They both remind the large species of the genus (see<br />

above) but are distinctly smaller (length of body ca.<br />

5–7 cm).<br />

for more detailed information:<br />

BaT census in leBanese caves<br />

2008 & 2009<br />

naKED-bELiED ToMb baT<br />

TAPhOzOuS NudIvENTRIS<br />

Not known from lebanon as yet, voucher<br />

specimen or a detailed photograph obligatory.<br />

several small clusters of shreiber’s Bat found in saleh mines.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Myotis blythii, detail of the face, Baalbek<br />

(photo by I. Horáček)<br />

Dietz C., 2005. Illustrated identification key to the bats of Egypt. Version 1.0. 36 pp. e-publication. pdf: http://<br />

www.uni-tuebingen.de/uni/bzt/Kontakt/mitarbeiter_seiten/dietz.htm.<br />

Dietz C. & Helversen O.V., 2004. Illustrated identification key to the bats of Europe, e-publication. http://public.<br />

carnet.hr/speleo/znanost/sismisi/Dietz_von_Helversen_2004IDkey_2.pdf<br />

Horáček I., Benda P., Sadek R., Karkabi S., Abi-said M., Lucan R., Hulva P., and Karanouh R. 2008. Bats of<br />

Lebanon, State of knowledge and Perspective, ِ<strong>Al</strong>-Ouat’Oaute, 14, 52-67.<br />

74 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 75<br />

a long-fingered bat<br />

(photo by I. Horáček)


CAVE PROTECTION<br />

ىلع ناسنلأا ريثأت عوضوم جلاعت لاقملا اذه يف ةثحابلا<br />

.ةساسحلا ةئيبلا هذه ةيامح ةيمهلا قرطتتو .ناعنك ةراغم<br />

ىلع لمعلل ةرماغملاو راوغتسلأا ةيدنا عيمج دشانتو<br />

.ةساسحلا ةئيبلا هذه ىلع ةظفاحملا<br />

Maïa Sarrouf | maiasarrouf@gmail.com<br />

karsT proTecTion commission<br />

established in 2007 as a working<br />

group in the spéléo club <strong>du</strong> liban, its main<br />

focus is the protection of caves and karst<br />

environments in lebanon.<br />

preliminary steps where taken in order<br />

to identify the vulnerable sites and assess<br />

the urgency of measures that need to be<br />

taken.<br />

after establishing these priorities the<br />

commission focused its efforts on kanaan<br />

cave. This cave required protection even<br />

from cavers themselves. The next protection<br />

project was al-kassarat cave where a<br />

government project was being implemented.<br />

This required a great deal of monitoring and<br />

protection measures.<br />

The commission will also address<br />

issues related to jiita cave, the longest<br />

cave in lebanon and the most visited show<br />

cave in the middle-east.<br />

Photo 1<br />

development of ferns at the cave entrance.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

EVALUATION<br />

OF human<br />

impacT ON<br />

kanaan cave<br />

Cet article propose de présenter les différents impacts humains sur la grotte de Kanaan, dans la région<br />

d’Antelias afin de sensibiliser les lecteurs, les spéléologues et les amateurs sur la protection des grottes<br />

au liban. il contient une description de l’état actuel de la grotte, une identification des principaux<br />

impacts ainsi qu’une proposition de mesures de protection et de conservation de ce milieu fragile.<br />

Photo 2<br />

development of moss and green algae on speleothems and<br />

walls close to the cave entrance.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Photo 3<br />

moss and green algae on the floor close to the cave<br />

entrance.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

Human impact on caves is an endless challenge but<br />

the <strong>du</strong>ty of a speleologist is to increase awareness among<br />

the people familiar and unfamiliar to the caving world. The<br />

following article identifies human impacts on Kanaan cave for<br />

the purpose of awareness and protection of the cave and other<br />

similar fragile environments. The article is dedicated to every<br />

caver and outdoor recreational group, especially in Lebanon.<br />

CAVE LOCATION AND DESCRIPTION<br />

Kanaan cave is located in the region of Antelias, few<br />

kilometers North of Beirut. It was discovered in 1996 by SCL<br />

members wandering around the quarries area (same area<br />

containing <strong>Al</strong> Kassarat cave). The cave is 80 m long and can<br />

be divided into three different parts (Nader, 1998):<br />

• The entrance: area intensively damaged by<br />

quarrying activities from the early sixties. It contains large<br />

blocks of collapsed rocks and broken speleothems. This area<br />

is biota rich with the presence of vascular plants such as<br />

ferns (Photo 1) and non-vascular plants such as moss and<br />

green algae (Photo 2 & 3). It also contains a variety of insects,<br />

spiders and an important bat colony with species such as<br />

the Egyptian fruit bat (Rousettus aegyptiacus) and Savi’s<br />

pipistrelle bat (Hypsugo savii) (Horacek et al., 2008);<br />

• The middle part: large muddy section also<br />

containing collapsed rock and cave features. Cavers developed<br />

the habit of taking their shoes off in that area before further<br />

progression towards the last section know as the temple of<br />

speleology;<br />

• The end part: described as the temple of speleology<br />

(Nader, 1998) contains a high variety of cave features<br />

condensed in a small area, such as stalagmites, stalactites,<br />

eccentrics, columns, curtains, flowstones, tulips and cave<br />

pearls.<br />

Photo 4<br />

impacts of muddy footsteps on white calcite shown<br />

in the circles.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

CAVE IMPACT IDENTIFICATION<br />

Since its discovery, the cave encountered many<br />

problems <strong>du</strong>e to its proximity to urbanized areas and its easy<br />

accessibility and developed a high risk factor from continuous<br />

human contacts. An assessment of these impacts has been<br />

elaborated to evaluate and visualize the intensity of damage.<br />

The source of cave damage is generated by human<br />

activities and interventions in the environment. The<br />

identification of impacts has been classified into two main<br />

groups:<br />

a. Direct human impact generated from current<br />

activities of visitors and cavers;<br />

b. Indirect human impact as a result of previous<br />

activities.<br />

a. direct human impact<br />

Direct human impact in the cave is generated by three<br />

type of visitors:<br />

i. Recreational groups;<br />

ii. Local and random visitors;<br />

iii. Cavers.<br />

The main damages observed are the muddy footsteps<br />

on the white calcite (Photo 4) and the muddy palms on cave<br />

features. Sensitive features such as cave pearls are crushed<br />

by visitor’s footsteps. Eccentrics and soda straws are broken<br />

under people’s palms, as visitors tend to ignore their highly<br />

delicate constitution.<br />

Litter is also a recurrent problem. How many times have<br />

we visited the cave to find a cigarette butts or an empty bag<br />

left behind on the floor?<br />

Furthermore, the impact of cavers is to be noted with<br />

special attention. Even with a credo of protecting caves,<br />

cavers tend to leave too many footsteps behind them and<br />

76 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 77


Photo 5<br />

development of a green patina on the exposed side of a<br />

speleothem to air flow and humidity at the cave entrance.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

muddy palms on highly sensitive areas. First, cavers used<br />

to adopt the norm of taking their shoes off while entering<br />

the temple of speleology, a habit that was progressively<br />

lost <strong>du</strong>e to lack of continuous awareness. Furthermore, the<br />

easy accessibility of the cave and its rich environment, have<br />

attracted several scientific studies in the last couple of years.<br />

Unfortunately, some of them did not adapt the caving world of<br />

ethics and left too many scars.<br />

b. indirect human impact<br />

It is assumed that Kanaan cave had no natural entrance<br />

before the quarrying activities were actively initiated <strong>du</strong>ring<br />

the late sixties. The blasting involved in these activities caused<br />

immediate impacts such as the collapse of large geological<br />

strata, generating an artificial cave opening.<br />

That direct exposure to air flow and humidity caused<br />

irreparable alterations to the cave and created a chain of long<br />

term reactions <strong>du</strong>e to the direct exposure to the external<br />

environment. Several threats are therefore noted to the cave<br />

system such as :<br />

• deposition of <strong>du</strong>st and mud particles by air<br />

circulation, slowly progressing into the cave to mask the<br />

existing features;<br />

• change in the cave’s microclimate with the<br />

infiltration of micro-currents of air, affecting the growth of<br />

speleothems;<br />

• change in the cave’s biodiversity by increasing<br />

the development of vascular and non-vascular plants,<br />

especially at the entrance. The change in ventilation and<br />

Photo 6<br />

mice incident i: feces on cave features.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Photo 7<br />

mice incidens ii: Tape damage and trail interruption.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Photo 8<br />

mice incident iii – final assessment: Trail interrupted and tape<br />

dragged to the hole.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Fig. 1<br />

chain of impacts generated by the quarrying activities<br />

humidity led to the development of a green patina on the<br />

surface of exposed speleothems (Photo 5). It is believed that<br />

this substance is a kind of microflora revealing a change in the<br />

microclimatological conditions. The increase in temperature<br />

and the change in concentration of carbon dioxide increases<br />

photosynthetic ability and encourages the faster growth of<br />

flora. An association could be made to the “maladie verte”<br />

(green disease) of caves, term mainly referring to the touristic<br />

impact generated in show caves (phenomenon that became<br />

famous in the 1960s with the development of chlorophycea<br />

from illuminated spotlights and human breath on the famous<br />

rock paintings of the Lascaux cave in France) (Merdenisianos,<br />

2005).<br />

We also note that mice feces were observed on the white<br />

calcite gours inside the Temple of Speleology section (Photo 6,<br />

7 & 8).<br />

The bat colony found at the cave entrance should be an<br />

important indicator of the caves’ biodiversity evolution. But in<br />

the case of Kanaan cave it is not known if the colony inhabited<br />

the cave before its exposure or if it migrated from the Kassarat<br />

Antelias cave system after the quarrying activities and the<br />

artificial cave opening.<br />

A recapitulation of the immediate and long term impacts<br />

of quarrying activities is shown in Figure 1.<br />

c. cave impact mapping<br />

In order to visualize these impacts a cave impact mapping<br />

was established to assess the damages in each of the affected<br />

areas (Fig. 2).<br />

The purpose of impact mapping is to locate the damaged<br />

areas generated by direct and indirect human activities. Each<br />

of the three parts of the cave has been assessed and classified<br />

according to the following rating classes:<br />

• Light impacts: impact present at a re<strong>du</strong>ced scale –<br />

no severe damage to cave features;<br />

• Heavy impacts: heavy damage to cave features<br />

with possible remediation or restoration;<br />

• Severe impacts: irreversible damage to cave<br />

features with no possible remediation.<br />

Assessments of the impact intensity in each area<br />

have been identified by several field observations and are<br />

summarized in Table 1.<br />

Area 1 or cave entrance is severely impacted as it<br />

contains large collapsed strata, several broken speleothems<br />

and an integrated biota system unfamiliar to the cave’s natural<br />

environment.<br />

Area 2, the middle part, is heavily impacted as well as it<br />

contains collapsed strata from blasting and a thick deposit of<br />

mud.<br />

Area 3, temple of speleology, contains light and heavily<br />

impacted areas that could be restored by proper practice.<br />

ACTIONS TAKEN FOR<br />

CAVE PROTECTION AND CONSERVATION<br />

Many techniques might be considered to restore damaged<br />

features and speleothems. A first step towards conservation<br />

was taken by the Karst Protection Commission by putting<br />

forward an action plan with the purpose of increasing<br />

awareness among cavers and visitors and possibly decreasing<br />

further degradation:<br />

area/damage light heavy severe<br />

Area 1 X<br />

Area 2 X<br />

Area 3 X X<br />

Table 1<br />

assessment of impacts per area<br />

evaluaTion of human<br />

impacT on kanaan cave<br />

78 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 79


Fig. 2<br />

map showing the impact assessment in kanaan cave.<br />

(comprehensive map that does not show all the cave features)<br />

> sTep 1: awareness campaign<br />

Campaign among SCL cavers were given to highlight the<br />

cave’s sensitive environment and the negative impacts caused<br />

by lack of good practice. Cavers were also prompted to limit<br />

the number of outings to the cave, re<strong>du</strong>cing the occurrence of<br />

eventual damage and destruction. Local communities within the<br />

areas and outdoor recreational groups are the next target for an<br />

awareness presentations.<br />

> sTep 2: Trail delineaTion<br />

Routing was chosen to define boundaries for visitors and<br />

cavers away from sensitive and damaged areas, especially<br />

eccentrics, cave pearls, gours and curtains (Photo 9). Non<br />

biodegradable tape was used on parallel continuous strips to<br />

delineate an appropriate pathway on both sides of the cave.<br />

Though wild caves do not need trail designation and should be<br />

free of access, the observed cumulative impact from visitors<br />

has led to its serious degradation and routing will help protect<br />

the cave value.<br />

Though not rated as the most aesthetic way, trail<br />

delineation is an excellent tool for managing sensitive cave<br />

resources. When visitors are confined in defined pathways<br />

features are better preserved (Hildreth-Werker & Werker, 2006).<br />

> sTep 3: signs allocaTion<br />

<strong>Al</strong>ong with the defined pathway, signs were assigned<br />

in specified locations as indicators for visitors to take their<br />

boots off before entering the temple of speleology and as a<br />

reminder to respect the path erected all along the cave. The<br />

signs were written in three languages (Arabic, English, and<br />

French) stating the following:<br />

• Vulnerable area ahead! Please remove boots here<br />

• Do not get off main trail<br />

> sTep 4: remidiaTion measures<br />

• The slow progression of mud and <strong>du</strong>st deposition<br />

from the middle muddy part could be stopped by the<br />

construction of a natural gate from site existing rocks to<br />

re<strong>du</strong>ce micro-currents of air circulation;<br />

• The visitor’s impact with muddy footsteps<br />

and muddy palms left on different speleothems can be<br />

re<strong>du</strong>ced by the definition a routing, away from sensitive and<br />

damaged areas;<br />

• Cleaning the damaged features is a remediation<br />

option that requires intensive work, meticulous and long<br />

methods using tools such as plastic toothpicks, tweezers,<br />

toothbrush, sponges, combs, brushes, syringes and other<br />

customized techniques.<br />

Photo 9<br />

Trail delineation inside kanaan cave.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

RECOMMENDATIONS<br />

Even though cavers do not like to be told how to behave,<br />

we must not forget that the first enemy of caves is us. Do<br />

we need a code of con<strong>du</strong>ct? Listed below are some selected<br />

practices recommended by Val Hildreth-Werker and Jim C.<br />

Werker to minimize negative impacts on caves (Hildreth-<br />

Werker & Werker, 2006):<br />

• Stay on established trails. Sit inside the trails.<br />

Keep packs and other items within the path. Choose the most<br />

impacted pathways.<br />

• Move carefully and gently through the entire cave -<br />

avoid kicking up <strong>du</strong>st.<br />

• <strong>Al</strong>ways spot each other in fragile areas. Especially<br />

watch heads, backs, hands, feet and packs.<br />

• Touch as little as possible. Avoid leaning on walls,<br />

ceilings or speleothems. Don’t sit on formations. Look and<br />

avoid trampling floor deposits. When movement requires hand<br />

holds, look first to avoid delicate features and use knuckles or<br />

fingertips for balance rather than dirty open palms.<br />

• During survey and exploration, establish pathways<br />

on <strong>du</strong>rable surfaces to minimize future impacts.<br />

• Point out surface or damaging behaviour. It is every<br />

caver’s responsibility to ensure that cave environments remain<br />

as pristine as possible and that every team member is safe<br />

and aware of conservation ethics. Cave softly…and leave<br />

no trace.<br />

Photo 10<br />

sign assignation along the defined pathways.<br />

(Photo by issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

80 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 81<br />

REFERENCES<br />

evaluaTion of human<br />

impacT on kanaan cave<br />

Hildreth-Werker, V., Werker, J.C., 2006. Cave Conservation<br />

and Restoration. National speleological society, 2006 Edition,<br />

p. 600.<br />

Horacek, I., Benda, P., Sadek, R., Karkabi, S., Abi-Said, M.,<br />

Lucan, R., Hulva, P., Karanouh, R., 2008. Bats of Lebanon.<br />

State of knowledge and perspectives. <strong>Al</strong> ouat’ouate, 14, 52-<br />

69.<br />

Nader, F., 1998. The Temple of Speleology. Mgharet Kanaan.<br />

<strong>Al</strong> ouat’ouate, 11, 54-59.<br />

Merdenisianos, C., 2005. The “Maladie Verte” (Green Disease)<br />

of the Caves, Proceedings of the 14th international Congress<br />

of speleology, Volume 2, 493-495.<br />

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT<br />

The author would to thank Issam Bou Jaoude for his ideas<br />

and especially for his precious time.


CAVER<br />

Photo 1<br />

raymond khawam.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Sami Karkabi | kraks@cyberia.net.lb<br />

Johnny Tawk (pour le traitement des photographies) | johnnytok@hotmail.com<br />

Raymond Khawam est né le 30 Octobre, 1924, à Haïfa et<br />

décédé le 13 Juin, 1968, à Faraya.<br />

Il fait des études d‘électricité et était en charge des installations<br />

de rayons X pour le Proche-Orient aux établissements Kettaneh.<br />

C’est là qu’il rencontre Lionel Gorra (premier explorateur<br />

libanais de la rivière souterraine de Jiita) en charge de l’audio visuel<br />

dans ce même établissement.<br />

C’est en 1951, qu’il fait ses premiers pas en spéléologie.<br />

Marié en 1963 à Augusta Gombert, il est père de deux enfants :<br />

Dominique et Yves.<br />

Membre actif <strong>du</strong> <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> il participe à de<br />

nombreuses explorations et demeure l’inventeur de nombreux<br />

matériels destinés à améliorer le mode d’exploration.<br />

-1954: L’éCLAIRAGE FRONTAL à L’ACéTYLèNE.<br />

-1955: LA SOURIS.<br />

-1956: LE TéLéPHONE LéGER ET PEU ENCOMBRANT.<br />

-1962: LE TREUIL DE DARA.<br />

La Souris (R. Khawam - <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate N°4-1955)<br />

L’idée de la conception de la SOURIS m’est venue en<br />

étudiant un jour la technique de la descente d’une équipe entière dans<br />

un gouffre. Le système courant employé pour assurer la dernière<br />

personne est d’amarrer une poulie au point de départ, de faire<br />

coulisser la corde, d’attacher une extrémité à la ceinture et d’envoyer<br />

le reste à l’équipe d’en bas. Rien de plus simple; on descend,<br />

l’assureur donne de la corde et le frottement est minime comme le<br />

montre la Figure 1.<br />

Mais supposons que le gouffre ait l’aspect de la figure 2. Si la<br />

corde est ten<strong>du</strong>e, il y aura usure par frottement contre la paroi. De plus<br />

elle risque de s’emmêler à l’échelle ou de céder en cas de chute.<br />

La “SOURIS” n’a rien de tout cela. Elle grimpe ou descend sur<br />

une corde fixe en compagnie <strong>du</strong> spéléologue, le bloquant en cas de<br />

danger sur simple pression pro<strong>du</strong>ite par l’assureur sur la corde.<br />

Le fonctionnement est le suivant; la corde est attachée en haut<br />

à X, passe en dessous de la poulie A sur C, contourne la poulie B,<br />

coulisse sur D par dessous A et descend au fond de l’abîme. L’assuré<br />

s’accroche à la Souris par F et G. L’assureur tient la corde en main et<br />

tire sur celle-ci. Que se passe-t-il? D est mobile et peu se déplacer vers<br />

RAYMOND<br />

khawam<br />

Raymond Khawam was born in Haifa on the 24th October 1924, and died<br />

in Faraya on the 13th June 1974, after 20 years of great inventions and<br />

contributions to speleology in Lebanon. An electrician by profession he joined<br />

the SCL in 1951. He invented a number of items that facilitated the exploration<br />

of caves such as the underground telephone, the ‘Mouse’ ascender, the ‘treuil’,<br />

a pulley system and the enhancement of cave lighting.<br />

ماع ناريزح يف يفوتو 1924 ماع لولاا نيرشت 24 يف افيح يف ماوخ نومر دلو<br />

راوغتسلاا لقح ىف ةمهملا لامعلااو تافاشتكلاا نم ةنس نورشع دعب 1974<br />

رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا يف عوطتت يئابرهك سدنهم .نانبل يف<br />

ةرافلا يه مهتافاشتكا يف نيروغتسملا ةدعاس يتلا هتعارتخا نمو .1951 ماع<br />

.اهريغو فتاهلاو<br />

Fig. 1<br />

le souris.<br />

Fig. 2<br />

Utilization de la Souris<br />

C mais garde sa position normale grâce au ressort E. A une certaine<br />

pression donnée par l’assureur qui est au fond <strong>du</strong> puits vers Y, la corde<br />

qui passe sur D, pousse D vers C et s’y coince entre C et D, d’où<br />

blocage de la Souris sur la corde. Pour le déblocage, il faut relâcher la<br />

corde.<br />

Le Téléphone (R. Khawam - <strong>Al</strong> Ouat’Ouate -N°6 – 1956)<br />

Schéma d’un téléphone léger et peu encombrant<br />

pouvant porter à plus de mille mètres.<br />

1° : Câble employé : 1/2 mm de diamètre.<br />

2° : F et L ne sont employés qu’en cas de camping<br />

sous terre ou par temps douteux.<br />

La chèvre (photo 3)<br />

La Chèvre crée en 1955 est destinée à éviter tout frottement de<br />

la corde en l’éloignant de la paroi. Elle est composée de trois tubes<br />

d’aluminium qui reliés forment une fourche. Dans la partie supérieure<br />

<strong>du</strong> manche est fixé une poulie dans laquelle coulisse la corde destinée<br />

à l’exploration. Un régulateur d’angle posé contre la paroi permet de<br />

contrôler l’angle de la fourche et par conséquent la verticalité de la<br />

corde. La Chèvre est reliée au sol par un câble ten<strong>du</strong> entre le manche et<br />

le bord <strong>du</strong> gouffre.<br />

Le Treuil (photo 4)<br />

Mis au point en 1962, a été spécialement conçu pour faciliter<br />

les manoeuvres dans le puits de 120 mètres <strong>du</strong> gouffre de Faouar Dara.<br />

Sa conception est simple (voir schéma) mais nécessite quelquefois la<br />

présence de deux volontaires.<br />

L’éclairage (photo 5 et 6).<br />

L’éclairage se ré<strong>du</strong>isait à une torche électrique à la main ou<br />

frontale et en cas extrême au recours à la bougie. L’éclairage ambiant<br />

était diffusé par la lampe à manchon dite lampe Lux. Cet équipement<br />

devait per<strong>du</strong>rer jusqu’en 1953. La lampe frontale à acétylène mise au<br />

point par Raymond Khawam n’a été intro<strong>du</strong>ite qu’en 1954.<br />

Le <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> doit à Raymond Khawam un grand<br />

nombre d’inventions et d’améliorations <strong>du</strong> matériel spéléologique<br />

indivi<strong>du</strong>el et collectif.<br />

Photo 3<br />

la chèvre au gouffre de houet sidani à jwar el hoz (1955).<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 4<br />

le treuil à dara.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 2<br />

r. khawam en démonstration de sa capsule téléphonique.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Fig. 3<br />

reconstitution <strong>du</strong> treuil par johnny Tawk.<br />

82 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 83


l’Éclairage fronTal ÉlecTriQue eT À acÉTylÈne<br />

Photo 5<br />

la première lampe frontale électrique en usage en 1953.<br />

il s’agit <strong>du</strong> corps d’une torche électrique, décapitée de son<br />

phare.. en guise d’intérrupteur une poire en plastique.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 7<br />

le bec est posé à l’intérieure d’un réflecteur en inox fixé à un serretête métallique<br />

recouvert de tissu mousse. le tissus est relié au réservoir à carbure par un tuyau<br />

en plastique. un adaptateur sur le côté règle le serre tête à volonté. un protège<br />

front de forme elliptique protège l’avant-crâne de l’échauffement <strong>du</strong> réflecteur.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 6<br />

la lampe frontale à acétylène de r. khawam en 1954.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 8<br />

en 1955, r. khawam met au point la lampe frontale<br />

mixte, électrique et à acétylène.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 15<br />

Écusson en cuivre incrusté sur le<br />

coté <strong>du</strong> réservoir de la lampe à<br />

carbure.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 9 eclairage frontage vu de face.<br />

Photo 10 même éclairage vu de dos.<br />

Photo 11 casque muni d’un simple bec d’acétylène.<br />

Photo 12 casque avec réflecteur.<br />

Photo 13 eclairage avec rajoût <strong>du</strong> briquet piézométrique.<br />

Photo 14 combinaison mixte indépendate, électrique et acétylène.<br />

(Photos by sami Karkabi)<br />

Photo 16<br />

le premier lampe,<br />

made in england<br />

cristella - engineering<br />

co Tp leeds.<br />

(Photo by sami Karkabi)<br />

84 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 85<br />

9<br />

12<br />

10<br />

13<br />

11<br />

14<br />

la phoTographie<br />

spÉlÉologiQue au liBan


1 ةمسر<br />

ةراغملا نا رهظي عطقملا . جردلا ةوهل ةيحطس ةيؤر عم مسق عسوم عطقم-<br />

تاقبطلا تاحطسم رهظت اهنا مث نمو ، نحنم دحاو رسكل ءانب ًايسيئر عسوتت<br />

نم ، دعصي نا لبق امهيف رودي نيناكم رهظي عطقملا .ايلعلا رئبلل يوطملا لكشلاو<br />

نمو ،يساسلأا رئبلا عم يزاوتملاو verstürzte hoffnung لفسلأل دتمملا رسكلا ةهج<br />

نوكت نا لجا نم ىرخأ ةهج<br />

.ةقصلاتم عسوملا عطقملاو ةحطسملا ةيؤرلا-<br />

.ةيواستملا ماسقلاا عم تعسو ايندلا يقوفلا يقفلأا مسقلل ةيحطسلا ةيؤرلا-<br />

راسكنلاا هاجتا ىلا ةفاضلإاب رهظي حطسلا هاجتاب تارمملا هذه لك نيب لاصتلاا اذهل<br />

.يسيئرلا<br />

لماكلا عسوتلا عطقملا رهظي نا بجي .ةمداقلا ةلحرلا رثكا يلمع<br />

.سايقملابو<br />

زكتري عسوملا عطقملل مهلأاو ًاراشتنا رثكلأا لامعتسلإا -<br />

تاراسكنلإا لك .ةراغملا لكشت لوح اهيوتحي يتلا تامولعملا ىلع<br />

لا هنكل ةحطسملا ةطيرخلاب هريوصت نكمي تابسرتلا عزوت و<br />

رمملا اذه له .عطقملا يف ةدوجوملا تامولعملا فصن يطعي<br />

تارمملا تابكارت عقت نيا ؟ )طوغضم رمم لاثم ( يئام حشرت هلصا<br />

ةدوجوم تامولعملا هذه ةدكؤم ةقيرطب ؟لفقلا ةحتف لكشب رمم ،<br />

ام لضفاو ادج مهم اهلك اهنيب ةقلاع داجيا نكل ، ماسقلأا يف<br />

يف رهظي حضاو لثم .عسوملا عطقملا يف ةقلاعلا هذه رهظت<br />

4 مسرلا<br />

انيطعي هنا :ًادج مهم مساقملا مسرو تامولعملا عمج ًاضيا<br />

. تريكشتلا لكش لوح تامولعملا انحنميو يلاحلا رمملا لكش<br />

ةيثلاثلا ةيؤرلا ةراغملل ةمهملا ةيجولويجلا تازيمملا راهظا فدهبو<br />

)ماسقاو عسوم عطقم ، ةحطسم ةطيرخ( ةسام يه<br />

؟داعبلاا يثلاثلا مسرلا اذامل<br />

يقفا مسر نم رثكا ىلا جاتحن اذامل حرطي لاؤس لوا<br />

حطس : طيسب وه باوجلا ؟ةيقفلأا رواغملا يف ًاصوصخو<br />

هليثمت ىلا يدؤي امم طقف نيدعب نم فلؤم ءيش وه ضرلأا<br />

ةيفارغجلا طئارخلا هعبتت ام اذهو ةطيرخ ىلع ةلوهسب<br />

ةراغملاف اذه نم سكعلاب .تاقرطلا طئارخو ةيجولويجلا<br />

هليثمت نكمي لاو داعبا ةثلاث وذ ءيش لعفلاب يه ةيقفلأا ىتحو<br />

نإف لماكلاب ةيقفا ةراغم يف ىتح .ةطيرخ ةطساوب ةقدب<br />

لا يتلا تامولعملا نم ريثك ىلع يوتحي رمملا لكشو مجح<br />

ةثلاثلا داعبلاا هذه تازيمم مدقن نحن يلاتلاب .اهلهاجت نكمي<br />

نم اذامل حرشن نحن مث نمو .ةداع اهيوتحت يتلا تامولعملاو<br />

ىلع لمعلا نع سايقمب )يكورك( ةمسر ىلع لمعلا لضفلأا<br />

نحن ةياهنلا يف .عيرس قيرط طقف وا عيرس فاشتكا ةمسر<br />

.جئاتنلاو طئارخلا رشن ىلع رصن<br />

؟حطسملا مسرلا اذامل<br />

نا .مسرلا ءارجلإ عيمجلل لولأا زفاحلا وه لولأا باوجلا -<br />

رهظتو ةراغملل لوطلاو تاهاجتلإا رهظت ةحطسملا ةطيرخلا<br />

هذه ليصافت لك رهظتو اهنيب اميف تلاصولاو ,تارمملا مجح<br />

.تارمملا<br />

ىلع لوصحلاب حمسي يقفلأا مسرلا نإف اديدحت رثكاو -<br />

سفن ىلع ىرخأ رواغم عم ةلمتحملا تلاصولا لوح تامولعم<br />

ةيقفلأا طئارخلا ىلع ةرظن ءاقلا يرورضلا نم كلذل . روحملا<br />

لاا اهلجأ نم دجوي لا ةداع يتلاو )تاوهلا( ةيدوماعلا رواغملل<br />

يقيقحلا دادتملإا . )coupe( ةيعطقم يا ةيدوماع طئارخ<br />

ًادج ةبيرق اهنا ًلاثم نيبي نا نكمي اهلك تاهاجتلاا يف ةراغملل<br />

ةيمهلأا غلاب ًارما لكشي امم ىرخأ ةراغمل ةدئاع تادادتما نم<br />

ةقلاعلا رهظت حطسلا ىلع ةذوخأملا تاظحلاملا )1 مسر(<br />

.ةراغملا لخاد كلتو حطسلل ةيجولويجلا لاكشلأا نيب<br />

لوح تامولعم ىلا يدؤت يحطسلا ططخملا ةيؤر -<br />

ًامئاد انيطعي يحطسلا ططخملا كلذل .ةراغملا لكشت<br />

ءانب تلكشت ةراغملا تناك اذا ًلاثم تامولعملا نم ريثكلا<br />

ةطساوب رفح( نايدولا عون نم تناك اذا وا تاراسكنلإا ةكرحل<br />

)2 مسر ( )ءاملا نايرج<br />

لوح تامولعملل ردصم يه ةيحطسلا ةيؤرلا نا -<br />

دجن نايحلأا نم ريثك يف .ةراغملا يف ةاقتلملا تابسرتلا<br />

تابسرتلا هذه زكرمت نكاما ةفرعم ةلمكت داجيلإ يساسا هنا<br />

نم عونا هذه .يسيئرلا رمملا يف رورملا قيعت ةجرد يلأو<br />

يف بتكي مل نا هنكل روغتسملا نم ظحلام تامولعملا<br />

يف لامكلإا ةيناكمإب ثحب كانه نوكي نل ةحطسم ةطيرخ<br />

ناكملا اذه<br />

رهظت لا اهنا ةحطسملا طئارخلا يف صقنلا ىقبي -<br />

ةصقانلا داعبلاا.ةراغملل يدوماعلا دادتملإا لاو رمملا عافترا<br />

؟ماسقلأا اذاملو عسوملا يضرعلا عطقملا اذامل<br />

عطقمب ءافتكلإا اننكمي لا اذامل( قباسلا لاؤسلا سكعب<br />

طقسملا يضرعلا عطقملا نا وه باوجلا )؟ طقسم يضرع<br />

طاقسلإا ناك لاح يف ًلاثم . تامولعملا نم ريثكلا يفخي<br />

مسر اذا( برغلا هجتإب دتمت ةراغمل يبرغ يقرش روحم ىلع<br />

لامشلا هاجتإب ةراغملا هذه فرحنت مث )ةراغملل حضاو<br />

ةراغملا رهظيس ءزجلا اذه )3 مسر( ءانحنلإا سفنب لمكتو<br />

يف تارمملا لكشل ريغت كانه ناك اذاو .يدوماع رئب اهنا امك<br />

نإ .تامولعملا عيضتسو ءيش يا رهظي نل مسقلا اذه<br />

ةدعاسمب طاقسلإا نيوكت ديعي نا ردقي ديجلا يفارغوبوطلا<br />

نم ىقبي هنكل عسوملا يضرعلا عطقملاو يحطسلا مسرلا<br />

جارختسا )رادحنلإا ريغت ةلاح يف ليحتسمو ( ناكمب بعصلا<br />

.طقسم عطقم قيرط نع عسوم عطقم<br />

تاراسكنلإا لئلاد انيطعي عسوملا عطقملا نإ -<br />

ةيحطسلا ةطيرخلل رظنلاب ىرت نا نكمي لا يتلا تابسرتلاو<br />

1 مسرلاب ىطعم لثملا اذه.طقف<br />

تابوعصلا لهسا لكشب رهظي عسوملا عطقملا -<br />

لكشب ميظنتب حمسيو ).. للاش ،فحز ، رئب ( ةرظتنملا<br />

Philipp Häuselmann and the UISIC workgroup “Topography and mapping” | praezis@speleo.ch<br />

Translated to Arabic by Issam Sbat & Mohammad Helo | isssbat@hotmail.com mmmhelou@hotmail.com<br />

CAVE SURVEY<br />

مادتسملا طئارخلا مسر<br />

Sustainable mapping does exist. Experience has shown that il est commun de renouveler la topographie d’une grotte. l’expérience a montré<br />

remapping of caves is an ever-repeating issue. Often, remapping without que c’est une procé<strong>du</strong>re qui se répète sans cesse. Refaire la topographie d’une<br />

including necessary data occurs because the cavers involuntarily lack grotte sans en inclure les données nécessaires arrive souvent, dû aux spéléos qui<br />

knowledge of what is needed and why. The aim of this paper is thus involontairement, manquent de connaissance au niveau de ce qui est demandé et le<br />

to inform the speleologist working in the field why quality mapping is pourquoi. le but de cet article est donc d’informer le spéléologue sur le besoin d’une<br />

needed and what elements are necessary. These elements include the topographie de qualité ainsi que sur les éléments nécessaires. Ces éléments incluent<br />

«holy trilogy» of plan view, longitudinal section (and cross-sections), and la “sainte trilogie” de la vue <strong>du</strong> plan, de la section longitudinale (et intersections), et<br />

a written description. We, the team of cave mappers all over the world, de la description par écrit. Nous, l’équipe de topographes de grottes dans le monde,<br />

hope that this article will be as widespread as possible, to minimize espérons que cet article soit répan<strong>du</strong> autant que possible, pour minimiser les futurs<br />

future impacts of remapping projects and to maximize the amount impacts des projets de re-topographie et pour maximiser la quantité d’informations<br />

of information than can be taken from mapping a cave, even to non- qui pourrait être obtenue par la topographie d’une grotte, même aux spéléologues<br />

geologic speleologists.<br />

non-géologues.<br />

لب )مداق لاقم عوضوم اذه نوكيس( ىرخأ باسح ىلع ةنيعم<br />

لدبتت لا ةدحاو يه ةيساسلاا دعاوقلا نا طئارخلا يماسر ريكذت<br />

مسر يف ساسلاا لكشت يتلاو ةيلاتلا طاقنلا ىلا انب يدؤي اذهو ،<br />

:طئارخلا<br />

اهتنايص عم ةزاتمم ةلاحب سايق ةزهجا لامعتسا -<br />

لمعتسنو ... رزيلالاب سايقلا ةلآ ، طيرشلاب سايقلا :رارمتساب<br />

.سيياقملل ًاقبط ةبرجم ةزهجا ةيلضفلااب<br />

عم سيياقملل هبنتمو ةربخ وذو بردم قيرف دامتعا -<br />

.ةيرصب بويع ةيأب ةطاحلاا<br />

ءاوضا ( نداعملا ىلا ةدئاعلا سايقلا ءاطخا ىلا هابتنلإا -<br />

مت دقو .)تاراظنلا ةيحايسلا رواغملا تازيهجت تايراطبلا ةرانلإا<br />

لقحلا ىلع رثؤت ةثيدحلا (led) دلالا راونا ىتح هنا فاشتكا<br />

ىجري كلذل )لاعتشلاا ةلاح يف طقف ضعبلا( يسيطانغملا<br />

.كلذ نم دكأتلا مث دكأتلا<br />

كلذل .ةطقن ىلا ةطقن نم طئارخلا مسر ىلع انه رصن -<br />

.رمملا فصتنم يف دوجوملا ليمزلا سأر لامعتسا بنجت ىجري<br />

طاقن يا وا روخصلا ىلع طئاحلا ىلع ، ةتباث طاقن رايتخا بجي<br />

بجي .رملأا مزل اذا اهداجيإ ةداعاو اهميلعت نكمملا نم ةتباث<br />

وا ًلاثم رفاظلأا ءلاط( ةمئادو ةيكذ ةقيرطب تاطحملا ميلعت<br />

نأك ةتباث ةقيرطب تاطحملا ديدحت بجي .ةسكاعلا طئارشلا<br />

.فقسلا وا ضرلأا طقف رسيلأا وا طقف نميلأا رادجلا ًلاثم مرتحن<br />

لك يف اهميلعت نكمم ةطحملا .)تارمملا سايقل ةدحاو ةقيرط(<br />

.لبقتسملا يف اهداجيإ ليهستل ةراغملا نم ءزج<br />

ريودت ىلع ةداعلا تجرد دقف : ةقيرطلا نع ملكتن اننا امبو<br />

3.56 وا 3.55 حبصت 3.56 ًلاثمف برقلأا رشعلا ىلع سايقملا<br />

سايقلا ةلآ ةطساوب يقيقحلا سايقملا يطعا دقل ؟اذاملف<br />

.ًاديفم اذه نكي مل نا ةقدلا صاقنا متي اذاملف<br />

يققدم ضعب – ساسح هنا رهظي مسرلا طاقن عقوم<br />

فدهب( ةراغملا لخاد تاملاع كرت بجي لا هنا نوري لاقملا<br />

تاملاع كرت بجي هنا نورخآ ىري نيح يف )ايئيب اهيلع ظافحلا<br />

طاقن عضول زيلاهدلاو قرافملا رهظت ةمئادو ةءورقمو ةحضاو<br />

رهظت لا ةيفخ تاملاع عضوب وه يصخشلا ييأر .ةيئاهنلا ءاقتللإا<br />

.ةيسيئرلا تاطحملا دنع لاا عضوت لاو ثحبلا دنع لاا<br />

نيماو عضاو )يكورك( عيرس مسر عضو يه ةريخلأا ةطقنلا–<br />

اذامل ةرقف نمض يلي اميف رهظتس مسرلا اذه ةيمها .لصفمو<br />

يكوركلا مسرت طئارخلا يماسر ضعب ؟ةلصفم عيرسلا ةمسرلا<br />

رطاسملا لامعتساب( ةراغملا لخاد ىتح سايقملا دامتعاب<br />

طئارخلا مسر ةيلمع سوملم لكشب ئطبي اذهو )ةيسدنهلا<br />

.ةمسرلا ةقد نسحيو ءاطخلأا صيلقت ىلا يدؤي هنكل<br />

نم مغرلاب .ءيشلا ضعب ًابيرغ لاقملا اذه ناونع ودبي دق<br />

بقل لمحت ماعلا عفنلا تاذ عيضاوملا مظعم انمايا يف هنا<br />

ريثأتلا فيفختك مادتسملا ةملك انذخا اذا كلذل .مادتسملا<br />

نع ثيدحلا نجهتسملا ريغ نم هنا دجن اهمارتحاو ةئيبلا ىلع<br />

.مادتسملا حسملا<br />

نم ةنيعم ةيعونب ةداشلاا ًادبا سيل لاقملا اذه ضرغ نإ<br />

نكل )ةيلضفلااب ماس ريغلا ( هافشلا رمحا عون طيطختلا ملاقا<br />

ةراغملا حسم مت لاح يف مادتسملا ةطيرخلا مسر نا راهظا<br />

، تاونس ةعضب للاخو ، ةسكاعملا ةلاحلا يف .ديج لكشب<br />

ًاديدج ًاحسم ءيس لكشب ةحوسمملا ةراغملا دهشتس<br />

ىلع ةيبلسلا تاساكعنلاا نم ديزم ىوس هل نوكي نل اذهو<br />

.ةقيقرلا اهتئيب<br />

تسيل ديدج نم ام ةراغم حسم ةداعا نا رهظت ةبرجتلا<br />

ًلاثم .حسملا ةداعلإ بابسلاا نم ريثكلا كانه .ًارركم ًلامع لاا<br />

تايثادحلاا اماو ةعئاض اما ، ةدوجوم ريغ ةيلصلاا ةخسنلا<br />

عطقملا صقنت وا ،ةلمعتسم ريغ وا ةرفوتم ريغ ةيساسلاا<br />

ىوتسم نود ًاضيا نوكت دق ةرفوتملا ةخسنلا ةيعون. يضرعلا<br />

.ةدمتعملا سيياقملا<br />

نيذلا ، نيروغتسملا نم ديدعلا نا لاملآل ًابييخت رثكلاا رملااو<br />

مسر نوسني يملعو قيقد لكشب رواغملا حسم نوديعي<br />

ةجردل .ىرخا ةمهم تامولعم وا ةراغملل يضرعلا عطقملا<br />

رصانعلا هذه ةفاضلإ طقف ىرخا ةرم ةراغملا حسمل رارطضلاا<br />

.ةصقانلا<br />

يف صقاون كانه .ةدوصقم ريغ تاوفهلا هذه نوكت بلاغلا يف<br />

.»يرورض رملاا اذه اذامل « ، طئارخلا مسر ميلعت<br />

اذه يروغتسمل حيضوتلا : جودزم اذا وه لاقملا ضرغ<br />

رصانعلا نايبتو ٍنأتب حسملا ةرورض )طئارخلا مسر( لاجملا<br />

.ديجلا يعونلا حسملل ةيرورضلا<br />

ءاوس ، »سدقملا ثولاثلا« ىوس اوسيل رصانعلا هذه<br />

)زيلاهدلا ماسقا عم (يضرعلا عطقملا وا ، يحطسلا مسرلا<br />

،رواغملا حسمب لمعي قيرفب ءاضعأك نحنو .يطخلا فصولاو<br />

رارضلاا فيفختب عساو لكشب لاقملا اذه مهاسي نا لمأن<br />

حسملل ةرركتملا تاداعلاا ءارج نم يفوجلا طسولاب ةقحلالا<br />

هجوم اذه حسملا للاخ تامولعملاو تايطعملا عفر نيسحتو<br />

.نييجولويج ريغلا نيروغتسملل ًاضيا<br />

طئارخلا مسر تايساسا<br />

اهضعب ، ملاعلا يف طئارخلا مسر ءارجلإ قرط ةدع كانه<br />

ةقيرط عيجشت سيل انفده نا ريغ ، رخلآا ضعبلا نم لضفا<br />

86 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 87


مئادلا طئارخلا مسر<br />

3 مسر<br />

طقسم عطقمو ) ىلعلأا نم ( ةيحطس ةيؤر<br />

نيبي طاقسلإا .ةلمتحم ةراغمب رممل )لفسلااب(<br />

طبهي نإ ةقيقحلا يف هنا نيح يف رئب لكشب نوكت<br />

.طاقسلإا حطسم عم يدوماع لكشب ةموعنو ءطبب<br />

عطقملا طقف نا دكؤملا نم ةمسرلا هذه ةيؤرب<br />

.يقيقحلا لكشلا رهظي يذلا وه عسوملا<br />

5 مسر<br />

يف ةراغملا نم مسقلا اذه يف رهظت مسرلا ةيعون ةيمها<br />

ةيحطسلا ةيؤرلا ، فاشكتسلإ يكورك وه ىلعلاا مسرلا .اينامور<br />

لك عم رمملا سفن رهظي ىندلاا مسرلا نا نيح يف ليصافتلا نودب<br />

و ةركاذلا نم يه تلايصفتلا نا هابتنلإا بجي (.ةظحلاملا تلايصفتلا<br />

دحا يف لمكيس زيلهدلا اذه نا دكؤملا نم و اهتشقانم نكمملا نم<br />

زيلهدلل ةلمتحملا ةلمكتلا رهظي قيقدلا مسرلا طقف .)نكاملاا<br />

.ةعارلا ةراغملا هذهل يسيئرلا رمملا نوكي دق يذلا<br />

6 مسر<br />

.نيا فرعا لا يتحول عضو تيسن دقل ! نيسيدقلا لك مساب “ ةئبعت<br />

2 مسر<br />

– زاقوقلا ( anglorusskaya peshtshera يف قيض رممل ةيحطس ةيؤر<br />

لسلست تاذ تامولعم ةدع ىلع يوتحت ةيحطسلا ةيؤرلا انه . )ايسور<br />

ةيناكما نإف يلاتلابو لوطا وه عسوملا عطقملا نإف ديكأتلاب .يقطنم<br />

هذه ىلع طقف ءورقم وه حطسلا عم وا ىرخا ةراغم عم عم لصاوتلا<br />

.ةطيرخلا<br />

4 مسر<br />

ةقطنمل لفسلاا نم عسوم عطقمو ىلعا نم يحطس يكورك مسر<br />

ىذتحي لا ( ةئيس ةيعون نم مسرلا اذه . اينامور يف pestera humpleu لخدم<br />

لحارملا ةيؤر هللاخ نم اننكمي يذلا عسوملا عطقملا ىلا دجوي لا.)لثملا هب<br />

رواغملل ةعسوملا عطاقملا ًاضيا اومسرت نا بجي .ةراغملا نوكتل ثلاثلا<br />

.ةيقفلاا<br />

اوعض ، ةراغملل يقيقح رطخ لكشي رشنلا ناك اذا ! مكتايطعم<br />

نيفشرؤم كانه . رواغملل ينطولا فيشرلأا يف طئارخلا نم ةخسن<br />

.ةمات ةيرسب تايطعملاو طئارخلا ظفح نوحرتقي نادلب ةدع يف<br />

يف هتئبختب رطخلل مكلمع اوضرعت لا .لامتحلإا اذه اولمعتسا<br />

.ةزهجم ريغلا مكجاردا<br />

تايطعملا لخدت نا نكمملا نم ، مكلامعا مترشن اذا ىتح :ةحيصن<br />

للاخ حطسلا عم ةسارد ةقطنم يف داعبلأا يثلاث جذومنب ةيساسلأا<br />

دتمت ام ةراغم نا دحا دكأتيل لاثم ادج مهم اذه .نلآا نم نينس ةعضب<br />

لك يف .ةميدق ةكبشل تارممب لاصتلإل وا ... هضرا تحت راتما ةعضبل<br />

يف وا اندنع ءاوس ةيلصلاا تايطعملا ةزايح يويحلا نم لاوحلأا هذه<br />

مكتاركذم يمرب وموقت لا ًادبا .ةينطولا تافيشرلأا يف وا يدانلا فيشرا<br />

اذهو. نيخستم اوناك ول ىتح ، ةعيرسلا مكتامسرو مكتاظحلامو<br />

اوناك لاح يف ديدج نم يفارغوبوطلا حسملا ءارجلإ باهذلا نم انيفعي<br />

ًائيش لكشي لا هلغشت يتلا ناكملا.اهب اوظفتحا .ًاقباس نيبوتكم<br />

.لبقتسملاب ديدج نم ماقرلأا عفر ديعن نا ةبسنلاب<br />

لبقتسملا ىلا ةرظن<br />

يف .يوديلا مسرلا لحم رتويبموكلا ذخأي ًائيشف ًائيش<br />

مسرل لمعتست )بودلأا لثم( مسرلل جمارب كانه ةريخلأا تاونسلا<br />

حمسي ايجولونكتلا مدقت .نلآا اهارن يتلا ةليمجلاو ةعئارلا طئارخلا<br />

صاخشلألو )...روخصلا وا ءاملا وا لمرلل( .ناوللأا ةدايزب ىتح ًاضيا<br />

ثيح هاندا ةروكذم تنرتنا عقاوم كانه ينورتكللاا ةسرلاب ةمتهملا<br />

نكل .طئارخلا مسر عيبكتل ةعونصمعجارم ءامساو تامولعم دجن<br />

قرولا – قرولا وه ةيلاحلا ةعاسلا ىتح مئادلا فيشرلأا نا وظفحا<br />

لا يد يسلا ضعب نا نيح يف رثكا ةنس 500 ىلا 20 ظفتحي<br />

نم اوهتنت ام درجم ، نيرصبتم اونوك .نيتنس دعب مهتءارق نكمي<br />

طقف ةقيرطلا هذهب . اهوفشراو طئارخلا اوعبطا ينورتكللاا مسرلا<br />

.مكلمع متممتا دق اونوكت<br />

لوح حئاصنو تامولعم مدقت يتلا تنرتنلاا عقاوم نم ريثكلا دجوي<br />

مهيصحن نا نكمي لا كلذل .لولحلاو لكاشملا ،طئارخلا مسر تاينقت<br />

:ًلاامعتسا رثكلأا ركذنس نكل مهلك<br />

http://www.sghbern.ch/hrh.html<br />

Site Internet de la HRH (Siebenhengste, Suisse) où l’on trouve bon<br />

nombre d’articles à propos de la topographie, des erreurs fréquentes, etc.<br />

.ةعئائلا ءاطخلأاو مسرلا لوح تلااقملا نم ريبك ددع دجن ثيح -<br />

http://www.carto.net/neumann/caving/cave-symbols/<br />

Les symboles officiels de topographie de l’UIS<br />

.رواغملا فاشكتسلا يملاعلا داحتلاا نم ةدمتعملا تاحلطصملا -<br />

http://www.sghbern.ch/surfaceSymbols/symbol1.html<br />

Les symboles pour la cartographie géomorphologique de la surface<br />

.ةيجولوفرومويجلا طئارخلل زومرلا -<br />

http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/seg/geomag/jsp/Declination.jsp<br />

Pour calculer la déclinaison magnétique tout autour de la Terre<br />

.ملاعلا لوح يسيطانغملا فارحنلاا باسحل -<br />

http://www.speleo.ch/~scmn/topographie.php<br />

Librairies Adobe Illustrator (version 9 et 10) pour dessins sur<br />

informatique.<br />

.رتويبموكلاب مسرلل 10 و 9 بودلاا ةبتكم -<br />

http://www.ssslib.ch (rubrique topo)<br />

Librairies Adobe Illustrator (version 10 et CS) pour dessins sur<br />

informatique.<br />

: ىلا ركش<br />

نيذلاو ،تاحرتقملاو ،تاحيحصتلاو ،داوملا اومدق نيذلا صاخشلاا لك<br />

:لاقملا اذه اومجرت<br />

Lukas Plan (Autriche), Ralph Müller (<strong>Al</strong>lemagne), Ken Grimes<br />

(Australie), Gabriel Redonte (Argentine), Rafael Carreno<br />

(Venezuela), Jelena Calic (Serbie), Erik Agrell (Suède), Pat<br />

Kambesis (USA), Andy Dickert (Suisse), Yvo Weidmann (Suisse),<br />

<strong>Al</strong>ex Hof (Suisse), Eckart Hermann (Autriche), Arnauld Malard<br />

(France), Daniela Spring (Suisse).<br />

لمع قيرف ىلا نوبستني صاخشلاا ءلاؤه نم ديدعلا<br />

.’طئارخلاو مسرلل‘ (l’UISIC)<br />

؟يطخلا فصولا اذامل<br />

ىلع طاوطو مسرت نا تلواح له : يهيدب ادج باوجلا<br />

نكاملاا وا )رهظي نل سايقملا دامتعاب( ةحطسملا ةطيرخلا<br />

لوح كيأر يطعتس فيك ؟ ةراغملا طئاوح ىلع ةظوحلملا ةللبملا<br />

؟ةراغملا لكشت<br />

نوكي نا نكميو تامولعملل يساسا ردصم وه يطخلا فصولا<br />

:نيروغتسملل ةبسنلاب نكل ءاملعلل ةبسنلاب طقف سيل ، يسيئر<br />

ريغلا ديملاجلا روخصلا ةيعون ةرومغملا تارمملا بيكرتلا مزاول<br />

نكمي لا روملأا هذه ...نيوكتلا ةيلمعو ايجولويبلا سبجلا دوجو ةباث<br />

طقف يفتكي لا فصولا ًاريخاو .ةباتكلا ىلا ًامئاد جاتحتو مسرت نا<br />

ىلا يدؤي رمم كراسي نع ًلاثم( ةطيرخلا فصو ديعي طيسب صنب<br />

.ةمهملاو ةيساسلأا تامولعملا هيف ركذي نا بجي نكل )32 رئبلا<br />

!ةمهم تاعلاطتساب مايقلا ىلع نورداق انلك معن<br />

يف تاقرطلا طقف سيلو طئارخلا ةقدب مسرن اذامل<br />

)يكورك( عيرس مسر وا ةراغملا<br />

قيقدلاو يبناجلا مسرلا نلأ زاتمم لاؤس اذه ىلولأا ةلهولل<br />

ًلامع طئارخلا مسر نوكي نلأ يدؤيو تقولا كلهتسي يذلا وه<br />

لامعتسلإل ؟يودي عيرس يكورك مسرب يفتكن لا اذامل اذا .ًلامم<br />

. ةلماكلا تامولعملا لمحي قيقد مسر نا ايلج رهظي يملعلا<br />

نم ريثكلا ىلع لوصحلا روغتسملا عيطتسي ةقيرطلا سفنلابو<br />

طئارخ مسرل جارختسا وه 5 مسرلا .قيقدلا مسرلا نم تانايبلا<br />

وهف ىندلأا ءزجلا اما يديلقت مسر حضوي ىلعلأا ءزجلا . ةراغمل<br />

ةيوازلا يف ؟ضيرعلا زيلهدلا تانوكم يه نيا .ًلاامج رثكا ةقيرطب<br />

عيطتسن لا ام اذهو .ةلمكتلا داجياو رفحلا عيطتسن ىنميلا ايندلا<br />

.ةيكوركلا ةمسرلا عم هلعف<br />

اهعقاومو تابسرتلا صاخ لكشبو تارمملا لكش نإ : راصتخإب<br />

انيطعت ، رمملا مجح عسوتو قيض لوح ىرخأ تامولعمب ةطبترم<br />

ةلدلأا هذه نكل .ةلمتحملا ةلمكتلا تلاامتحا لوح ةيقيقح تامولعم<br />

.ةلصفملاو ةقيقدلاو ةحضاولا طئارخلاب لاا رهظت لا<br />

موقي نا راظتناب ةزهجلأا ةءارق نم مترجض اذا : صوصخلا اذهب<br />

؟)اضيا دربلا نم نوصلختت ىتحو( نوعنصت اذام ، هتاموسرب ماسرلا<br />

. نيديكا ونوك اهنودجتس.ةلمتحم ةيبناج تارمم داجيإ اولواح<br />

هاجتلااب سيياقم ذخا يه ًاريثك نودربت لا ىتح ىرخا ةقيرط كانه<br />

.تأجافم اوعقوت .ًةلباقم ةذوخأملل ةقدلا ديكأتل سكاعملا<br />

سايقمب ةقلعتملا تلااكشلإا ضعب أشنت نا نكمملا نم<br />

.ةضيرخلا لامعتسلإ ةبسنلاب ددحي نا بجي سايقملا .ةطيرخلا<br />

هل 1/50 سايقم لمعتسا نكمم نكسلل لمعتسا عقوم نإ<br />

يف .قاروا ةدعبو 1/500 اهل لمعتسن ادج ةليوط ةكبش امنيب<br />

.ةريغصلا رواغملا لكل 1/100 سايقم ةداع لمعتسن نحن ابوروأ<br />

.ةريبكلا رواغملل رتم 1:500 و رتم 500 و 20 نيب رواغملل 1/200<br />

ةمسرلا نم ءزجلا سفن يف سيياقم ةدع اوطلخت لا نا اولواح<br />

اننا دكؤملا نم .تامسر ةدعل ماجحلأا نيب ةنراقملا عيطتسن ىتح<br />

نم سيل ، 1/500 لا دودحب يئاهنلا انمسر نوكي نا ديرن انك اذا<br />

لا نكل 1/50 لاب يكورك يرجن نا وا تاظحلام نودن نا ديفملا<br />

ةمسر وه هلعفن نا ًادبا انل قحي لا يذلا اما .لباقملاب عنمي ءيش<br />

اهمسر مث نمو ةراغم يف 1/500 سايقمب )ةيكورك( ةعيرس<br />

مسرلا ءارجإب أدبن نا لبق ةياهنلاب ركفنلف .ةقدب 1/50 سايقمب<br />

سيياقملا ذخاو<br />

؟رشنلا اذامل<br />

اهنومسرتف لوخدلا ةلهس ةليمج ةدعاو ةراغم نودجت دق<br />

داون نم نوروغتسم موقي نا نوشخت دق مكنكلو .دوهجم يا نودب<br />

اهودقفيف اهلوخدب يشملا نوبحي صاخشا وا حاوس وا ةسفانم<br />

ةراغملا هذه ىلع ظافحلا يه ىلولأا مكلعف ةدر .اهتايصوصخ<br />

وا رفاس دق مكدحا ناك اذا هنا وه يبلسلا بناجلا . نيفد رسك<br />

يماسر دحا نا وا تاونس ةعضبل راوغتسلاا نع فقوتلا ىلا رطضا<br />

نم طئارخلا قارحاب تماقف هتدلاو عم فلتخا مكيدان يف طئارخلا<br />

اذه نم تلااح تفرع يننا ذا ليحتسم سيل اذهو اوليخت( .بضغلا<br />

.تعاض دق تامولعملاف يلاتلابو )رملأا<br />

لك مكطئارخ لك مكرواغم لك اورشنا متحمس اذا<br />

88 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 89


GRAPHIC DESIGN<br />

WHAT’S<br />

IN A<br />

logo?<br />

Nadine Sinno | info@speleoliban.org<br />

THANK YOU TO ALL THE CAVERS WHO TOOK THE TIME TO SEND THEIR LOGOS<br />

What is a logo? Why is it important and how do we<br />

relate to it? There are many famous logos recognizable the<br />

world over. They can be images, letters from an alphabet<br />

or a combination of both. Understanding why a certain<br />

logo is easily recognizable is the main reason a good logo<br />

is considered exactly that. A logo does not have to show<br />

everything it is trying to identify. It just has to give us a<br />

shortcut to particular pro<strong>du</strong>ct, place or person. The best<br />

logos in the world are the ones that have withstood the<br />

ravages of time, allowed for flexibility and growth and have<br />

managed to remain identifiable even as they evolve.<br />

Most elements in the world today have logos. It is<br />

hard to find a famous company or a shop or manufactured<br />

goods that has not been ‘logo’ed to death. It seems that<br />

caving clubs have also followed this route.<br />

The idea for this article was simple. If logos where<br />

brought together from caving clubs around the world would<br />

they be similar as they are all identifying the same thing? An<br />

open letter was sent out asking caving clubs to send their<br />

logo along with a certain explanation for the logo design.<br />

Over seventy replies were received.<br />

It was found that the caving club logos fit into<br />

five different categories: Karstic terrain, where images of<br />

cavers in caves, cavities underground and general water-<br />

flow through rocks prevailed; Cave fauna, showing mainly<br />

bats and proteuses; Type based logos where the initials of<br />

the caving clubs are used; equipment from karabiners to<br />

helmets; Abstract which are mainly geometrical patterns.<br />

Combinations of some of the other categories together<br />

elements.<br />

There does not seem to be a predominant colour<br />

for the logos. Only when the colours are significant to the<br />

country does a logo tend to have specifically different<br />

colours as with the KARST logo and the Mexica.<br />

‘The logo was designed in 1955<br />

featuring a bat and the lebanese<br />

national tree, the Cedar.’ The<br />

newer version (on the right) has<br />

been digitized into vectors with<br />

the cleaning of the cedar tree and<br />

more definition in the bat.<br />

sami karkabi, founder, speleo<br />

club <strong>du</strong> liban<br />

The predominant shape is the circle and over 60% of<br />

the logos were circular in format.<br />

It was found that from the hundreds or so logos<br />

researched the most used image to be placed on caving<br />

clubs logos is that of a bat, with approx. 30% of the logos.<br />

Some represent typical design elements of that<br />

specific country. The Swiss and German cleanliness and their<br />

strict geometrical typeface is typical of the design history of<br />

these countries.<br />

The combination logos can also create interesting<br />

images. The combined images of type with karst elements<br />

such as the NSS logo and the CSS show the integration of<br />

different aspects of caving such as the bat and a carbide<br />

lamp and type and karstic features.<br />

Some of the most beautiful logos remain the simplest.<br />

Depicting the most fundamental caving images these<br />

seem to keep the design identity of a country as well as<br />

understanding what caving is. The Carbide lamp with wings,<br />

the man climbing inside a country’s shape. There are too<br />

many to speak of.<br />

<strong>Al</strong>l in all it seems that caving clubs’ logos do not<br />

vary that much from each other with respect to the images<br />

they portray because in the end that is what joins them all<br />

together. Whether we see the differences or the similarities<br />

we all represent one thing and that is we all love these little<br />

(or not so little in some cases) underground heavens. How<br />

we choose to represent them depends on the country we<br />

come from and its graphic design history. We can see that<br />

the older the logo the more it is influenced by graphic design<br />

trends of the country but in recent time and with the newer<br />

logos this seems to have disappeared as it indeed has from<br />

mainstream graphic design since the advent of computers<br />

and the internet when so many styles are prevalent and so<br />

much is available to look at.<br />

THIS IS AN ON GOING PROJECT SO If YOU ARE INTERESTED IN SENDING YOUR LOGOS AND DETAILS PLEASE SEND THEM TO:<br />

renakaranouh@hotmail.com<br />

له ملاعلا يفراوغتسلاا ةيدنا تاراعش عمج مت اذا<br />

قرطتت اهنوكل نومضملا ثيح نم ةهباشتم نوكتس<br />

يذلا لاؤسلا وه اذه ؟راوغتسلأا وهو عوضوملا سفنل<br />

ددع ةثحابلا تعمج نا دعبو .لاقملا اذه يف جلوع<br />

ىلا اهمصق ملاعلا يفراوغتسلاا ةيدنا تاراعش نم ريفو<br />

وأ ةسراكلا عيضاوم :اهتاراعش يف ظحلت تآف ةسمخ<br />

تادعموأ ةيدنلاا ءامسا تاحلطصموأ رواغملا تاناويح<br />

.ةيلايخ عيضاوم ظحلت تاراعش اريخا و نيروغتسملا<br />

L’auteur de cet article se pose: si les logos des différents clubs de spéléo dans<br />

le monde étaient regroupés, seraient-ils pareils vu qu’ils identifient la même<br />

chose? Il a été trouvé que les logos des clubs de spéléologie appartiennent à cinq<br />

catégories différentes : le terrain karstique, où les images des spéléos sont des<br />

grottes, des cavités souterraines et des écoulements d’eau généraux à travers des<br />

rochers dominants; la faune des grottes, montrant surtout des chauves-souris et<br />

des proteus; des logos en lettres, où les initiaux des clubs de spéléologie sont<br />

employés; l’Equipement, des mousquetons, aux casques; Abstrait, des logos à<br />

motifs géométriques: combinaisons de certains éléments des autres catégories.<br />

VICTORIAN SPELEOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION, AUSTRALIA<br />

UNIÓN MEXICANA DE AGRUPACIONES ESPELEOLÓGICAS, MEXICO<br />

AGRUPACION SPELEOLOGICAL CLUB, MEXICO<br />

CZECH SPELEOLOGY SOCIETY, CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

BOLOGNA SPELEOLOGICAL GROUP, ITALY<br />

‘This logo is called «Nargun». The<br />

«Nargun» is the name of a mythical<br />

creature who lived in caves and caught<br />

people who came near. This is a myth<br />

of the east gippsland aboriginal tribes.<br />

We have at least two caves associated<br />

with this myth. The emblem logo was<br />

stylized as a cave man from a silhouette<br />

photograph of a caver in the entrance<br />

of a cave.’ nicholas white, australian<br />

speleological federation.<br />

‘The first semicircle means the union<br />

between the speleological groups; the<br />

second semicircle symbolizes a cord, which<br />

is an important element to practice the<br />

speleology. The human figure represents a<br />

seated Mayan wise person within the cave<br />

and is a symbol of the knowledge that is<br />

<strong>du</strong>e to have to study the caverns suitably.<br />

Finally in the center of the emblem there are<br />

stalactites and stalagmites, typical formations<br />

that are observed in the surroundings of the<br />

means in which you make its activities the<br />

speleologists.’ dr. palacios-vargas, mexico.<br />

‘our logo is a Mexica - our ancient culture<br />

- stylized bat with a waterfall coming<br />

out it’s mouth and a red caving helmet.<br />

surrounded by a yellow frame with<br />

stalactites and stalagmites.’ guillermo<br />

gonzález canales, mexico.<br />

i am sending the logo of the Czech<br />

speleological society - it was drawn by<br />

Karel saudek, a famous Czech painter.<br />

jirina novotna, css<br />

‘A symbol of a complete collaboration between the historical speleological groups of<br />

our city: Bologna speleological group (1932) and Bologna speleological union (1957).’<br />

stefano cattabriga secretary of Bologna speleological group<br />

KARST, ORGANIZACIÓN ARGENTINA DE<br />

INVESTIGACIONES ESPELEOLÓGICAS, ARGENTINA<br />

PLANIVY VERTICAL TEAM, CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

‘The colours are the colours of the<br />

Argentine flag: Blue and White. The<br />

brickyard is the geological symbol of<br />

the limestone. The caver inside with<br />

the form of a ‘K’ is the first character<br />

of the word KARsT, the name of our<br />

group that was create in 1972.’enrique<br />

lipps, karst, organización<br />

argentina de investigaciones<br />

espeleológicasadheridos a la sociedad<br />

argentina de espeleología.<br />

The official logo of this speleo club was<br />

established in 1959. The pigmy in the<br />

center of one is the basic symbol of the<br />

Planivy speleogroup.<br />

‘Here you are the logo of the, Fe<strong>Al</strong>C,<br />

Federacion espeleologica de America<br />

latina y el Caribe, designed in 1981<br />

in Cuba (valid for Brazil, Venezuela,<br />

Argentina, Cuba, Costa Rica, Republica<br />

dominicana, Mexico, Bolivia). You can<br />

choose the best electronic version as you<br />

want. i also will re-send your mail into<br />

the latin-American email list, so dozens<br />

of societies inside these countries can<br />

help you in your work.’ rafael carreño<br />

federacion espeleologica de america<br />

latina y el caribe fealc.<br />

‘Here is the logo of the Fe<strong>Al</strong>C, Federacion<br />

espeleologica de America latina y el<br />

Caribe, designed in 1981 in Cuba (valid for<br />

Brazil, Venezuela, Argentina, Cuba, Costa<br />

Rica, Republica dominicana, Mexico,<br />

Bolivia).’<br />

Some of the logos were sent with an explanation of the reasoning<br />

behind the imagery. There does not seem to be an area specific<br />

single logo identity but most follow local legends or myths or<br />

just caving equipment. Some take into consideration the main<br />

interest of the club such as vertical descents or diving.<br />

90 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 91<br />

PLANIVY SPELEO CLUB<br />

SOCIEDAD VENEZOLANA DE<br />

ESPELEOLOGIA, VENEZUELA<br />

LATIN AMERICAN AND CARRIBEAN SPELEOLOGY FEDERATION<br />

Planivy speleo club which are<br />

interested in research or making of<br />

expeditions to deep vertical cave<br />

systems.


logos Based on cave fauna<br />

SPORT ASSOCIATION OF SPELEOLOGY,<br />

MOROCCO<br />

OTXOLA SPELEOLOGY CLUB, SPAIN CENTRE ROUTIER SPELEO, BELGUIM SPELEO CLUB OF ORVIETO, ITALY SWISS SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY<br />

SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF JAPAN SPELEO CLUB OF ROME, ITALY<br />

JAMARSKO DRUSTVO SEZANA, SLOVENIA<br />

VENEZIANA RICERCA GROUP, ITALY<br />

SPELEO CLUB OF MONTAGNES NEUCHATELOISES,<br />

FRANCE<br />

ARAGON SPELEOLOGY CENTER, SPAIN<br />

DOCUMENTATION CENTER OF SPELEOLOGY, ITALY CZECH SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY, CZECH REPUBLIC SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF SEŽANA, SLOVENIA SPELEOLOGICAL CLUB ORCUSو CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY, ITALY SPELEO CLUB OF TOULON, FRANCE TOPAS SPELEOLOGICAL CLUB, BRNO<br />

ALPINE AND SPELEOLOGICAL CLUB SPELEOLOGICAL CLUB OF SAVONESE, ITALY<br />

KARST AND CAVES / MUSEUM OF NATURAL<br />

HISTORY VIENNA, AUSTRIA<br />

POTOMAC SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY UNDER ACHIEVERS CLUB, AUSTRALIA<br />

The majority of the cave<br />

fauna that were placed on<br />

logos were bats accounting<br />

for over 30% of logo imagery.<br />

The proteus also seems to<br />

be a common favourite.<br />

logos Based on cave fauna (cont’d)<br />

JAMARSKA ZVEVA, SLOVENIA SPELEO CLUB OF VALCERESIO, ITALY JOURNAL LOGO, SLOVENIA KARST INSTITUTE, POLAND<br />

CAVING CLUB LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA<br />

logos Based on cave eQuipmenT<br />

SWISS SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY, SWITZERLAND CZECH SPELEOLOGY CLUB, CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

GERMAN SPELEOLOGICAL FEDERATION, GERMANY CLUB ESPELEOLOGÍA TALPA, SPAIN<br />

SPELEO-DIVING GROUP HRANICKY<br />

KARST OLOMOUC, CZECH REPUBLIC CLUB FOR THE SPELEOLOGICAL RESEARCH<br />

SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF WALLONIE SPELEO CLUB OF NUORO, ITALY<br />

SPELEO CLUB OF FORTE DEI MARMI. ITALY<br />

SWISS CAVE DIVING, SWITZERLAND<br />

ASSOCIATION SPELEOLOGIQUE &<br />

ARCHEOLOGIQUE GOUYTOISE JAMARSKI KLUB, SLOVENIA SPELEO CLUB OF ARIZE<br />

SPELEO CLUB OF FRANCONVILLE VAL D’OISE,<br />

FRANCE<br />

SPELEO PETRA SPELEOLOGICAL GROUP, ITALY<br />

SPELEO CLUB LES STALACS, FRANCE<br />

SPELEOLOGICAL FEDERATION, ARGENTINA<br />

SPELEO CLUB GODINNOIS, FRANCE<br />

The caving helmet seems to<br />

be the favourite among cave<br />

club logos with the carbide<br />

lamp featuring too. The entire<br />

range of SRT equipment is<br />

also shown with carabiners<br />

and rope descents.<br />

92 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 93<br />

whaT’s in a logo?<br />

2<br />

5


logos Based on karsT feaTures<br />

CROATIAN SPELEOLOGICAL FEDERATION,<br />

CROATIA<br />

NORWEGIAN CAVING CLUB, NORWAY<br />

FOND SPÉLÉOLOGIQUE DE BELGIQUE, BELGUIM<br />

SPÉLÉO CLUB DE LA VALLÉE DE JOUX, SWITZERLAND REDAN CAVING CLUB, BELGUIM<br />

ITALY THE DEVON KARST RESEARCH SOCIETY, UK<br />

BOSTON GROTTO, USA<br />

SOCIETE SPELEOLOGIQUE DE WALLONIE<br />

BALKAN SPELEOLOGICAL UNION<br />

speleo<br />

QUEBEC SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY, CANADA<br />

ICELANDIC SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY NATIONAL CAVING ASSOCIATION, UK GREECE<br />

AUSTRIAN CAVING ASSOCIATION , AUSTRIA NATIONAL SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY, USA<br />

ESPELEO SOCORRO, SPAIN<br />

LEBANESE ASSOCIATION OF SPELEOLOGICAL STUDIES NATIONAL CAVE AND KARST RESEARCH INSTITUTE SPELEO CLUB OF RIBALDONE. ITALY<br />

CASTELLI ROMANI CAVE GROUP, ITALY<br />

TEXAS SPELEOLOGICAL SURVEY, USA<br />

LINCOLN SCOUTS CAVING CLUB, UK<br />

Underground karstic<br />

features do indeed show up<br />

a lot whether it is fractured<br />

rocks, underground terrain<br />

or speleothems.<br />

logos Based on Type<br />

HOHLENFORSCHERGEMEINSCAFT REGION HOHGANT,<br />

SWITZERLAND<br />

SPELEOLOGICAL GROUP OF URBINATE, ITALY<br />

SPELEOLOGICAL GROUP OF ARTIFICIAL CAVES, ITALY<br />

GRUPO ESPELEOLÓGICO ANTHROS, COSTA RICA<br />

CANTERBURY CAVING GROUP, UK<br />

GEDA SPELEOLOGY GROUP, CUBA<br />

BELGIUM UNION OF SPELEOLOGY, BELGUIM CAVE RESEARCH INSTITUTE OF KOREA, KOREA<br />

CAMBRIDGE CLIMBING AND CAVING CLUB<br />

AUCKLAND SPELEO GROUP, AUSTRALIA AUCKLAND SPELEO GROUP AUCKLAND SPELEO GROUP<br />

logos Based on aBsTracT shapes<br />

KINGSTON UNIVERSITY CAVING CLUB, UK<br />

GROUPE D’ETUDES ET DE<br />

RECHERCHES SOUTERRAINES DU<br />

LIBAN, LEBANON<br />

Typography based logos do<br />

not seem to be very popular<br />

and only a few were identified<br />

mostly forming combined logos<br />

and rarely type on its own.<br />

SANDIA GROTTO, USA SPANISH CAVING FEDERATION, SPAIN<br />

SPELEOFORUM, CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

SPELEO RESCUE, MEXICO<br />

SPELEOTHERAPY CENTER SVEJAN, SLOVAK REPUBLIC ALBERTA SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY NEW ZEALAND SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY<br />

Some logos are abstract and<br />

have a symbolic aspect to<br />

them where the logo can be<br />

understood on a number of<br />

different levels.<br />

94 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 95


1951-1955<br />

Lionel Gorra’s<br />

house (Fig. 1)<br />

CLUB-HOUSE<br />

Fig. 1<br />

lionel gorra’s house, BeiruT.<br />

Fig. 2<br />

alBerT anavy’s house, BeiruT.<br />

Bashir khoury | www.bashirkhoury.com<br />

Fig. 3<br />

renTed house, TallaT jumBlaT sT. BeiruT.<br />

Fig. 4<br />

scl headQuarTers, 1998, Bsalim.<br />

Fig. 5<br />

The cluBhouse wiTh The climBing wall, 2009.<br />

We always had this problem. We were on the move<br />

regularly. Even before the war we were always nomadic.<br />

We did not stay in one place for long. We had to move all<br />

our equipment and change our weekly meeting location<br />

frequently, for various reasons. The material we owned<br />

and collected throughout the years were sometimes lost<br />

and other times stolen <strong>du</strong>e to this wandering existence.<br />

1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000<br />

1955-1962<br />

albert anavy’s<br />

house (Fig. 2)<br />

1962-1975<br />

Rented house, Tallat Jumblat St.,<br />

beirut (Fig. 3)<br />

1975-1985<br />

The Lebanese War. This same<br />

rented house was emptied of its<br />

equipment, archives and library.<br />

The materiel was moved to<br />

alain Maroun’s house (aoukar,<br />

beirut suburbs), the archives<br />

and library were put in Sami<br />

Karkabi’s house (faraya) until<br />

1985. That same year all the<br />

documents of the library were<br />

submitted to Hani ab<strong>du</strong>lnour.<br />

1989-1992<br />

Joe Zgheib’s<br />

house, biyada<br />

1985-1989<br />

Lionel Gorra’s house,<br />

Zouk Mosbeh.<br />

OUR<br />

THURSDAY<br />

MEETING<br />

headQuarTers<br />

ever since The founding of The spÉlÉo<br />

cluB <strong>du</strong> liBan in 1951 we have moved<br />

headQuarTers more Than Ten Times.<br />

1992-1993<br />

bTD headquarters<br />

courtesy of Michel<br />

Majdalani, Zalka.<br />

1996-1997<br />

Société Général bank<br />

location, ashrafieh<br />

1993-1996<br />

Société Général bank<br />

put a quarter for ScL<br />

disposition, naccache<br />

1998 to date<br />

ScL headquarters,<br />

Qennabet broumana<br />

1997-1998<br />

church Hall, badaro<br />

بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا لظ اماع 47 ىدم ىلع<br />

نأ ىلا ,رخا ىلا ناكم نم لقنتي رواغملا يف<br />

ةنس يفو .1998 ةنس انامرب ةبانق يف ّ رقتسا<br />

يهيجوت ططخم يدانلا نم ءاضعا عضو 2007<br />

ىلع ططخملا اذه ذفنيو يدانلا رقم نيسحتل<br />

.ةيلبقتسملا ءاضعلأا تابلطتم بسح لحارم<br />

In 1998, we no longer had to move, the club-house in<br />

Bsalim was bought (Fig. 4).<br />

The importance of finding a central hub where all our<br />

books, archives, equipment and gear can be stored was<br />

beginning to take shape.<br />

The club-house was bought in 1998 when Hughes<br />

Badaouie was the president of SCL. The cost at that time<br />

was $30,000. Half of it came from club members who<br />

donated money and the other half came from work done<br />

on the Qattine Azar sinkhole project con<strong>du</strong>cted by BTD<br />

(Bureau de Techniques et <strong>du</strong> Development) managed by<br />

M. Majdalani.<br />

The location is a two-level, 370 sqm warehouse<br />

located in Qennabet Broummana, 10 minutes from Beirut.<br />

Since 1998, club members worked on improving<br />

its condition. This included painting, tiling, installing a<br />

metal staircase, an entrance door, and lighting. They also<br />

allocated a room for the caving equipment and a small<br />

room for archiving. This was all done with very good<br />

intentions but without any proper preplanning.<br />

The new design for SCL’s club-house came about<br />

after members showed a need to identify themselves to the<br />

space in order to appropriate it and feel at home.<br />

How are we to satisfy these aspirations?<br />

Recently Johnny T. and I have worked on a new<br />

design for the club-house that satisfies the modern caver’s<br />

needs and aspirations. The plans in Figure 5 and 6 show<br />

this new design of the lower level and the upper level or<br />

mezzanine level.<br />

A roof covering the entrance was necessary not only<br />

to conceive a small working space for washing and storing<br />

dirty equipment and ropes which is very vital for the<br />

cavers, but also beautifies the club’s entrance.<br />

Rearranging the stairs to the mezzanine level<br />

provided direct access from the entrance. Direct access to<br />

the upper level was necessary for transporting material in<br />

and out of the library which was named “Sami Karkabi’s<br />

dans cet article, l’auteur met l’accent sur le problème d’avoir dû déménager plus de 10 fois déjà depuis la<br />

fondation <strong>du</strong> spéléo <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> liban en 1951. le sCl n’a pas <strong>du</strong>ré longtemps dans le même emplacement pour<br />

plusieurs raisons. le matériel <strong>du</strong> sCl, approprié et collectionné au fil des années était parfois per<strong>du</strong>, d’autres<br />

fois même volé malheureusement, jusqu’à l’année 1998 lorsque le sCl a acheté les locaux à Bsalim. Cet article<br />

expose comment les quartiers généraux <strong>du</strong> sCl sont restaurés et commencent à prendre forme, pour devenir un<br />

centre où tous nos livres, archives, équipements et matériels peuvent être conservés.<br />

Fig. 6: The first floor Fig. 7: The mezzanine floor<br />

Library”. This library is now recognized by the UIS as<br />

being the Middle East caving documentation centre.<br />

The 15 sqm library is moved to a bigger 40 sqm space<br />

(Fig. 6). This area is now called the Media and Library<br />

room. This will accommodate the continuous flow of<br />

Middle Eastern caving books and materials and to provide<br />

a suitable environment for research activities. The room<br />

will also be provided with a round table for work groups<br />

and committee meetings. The area that housed the old<br />

library and the old archive room will join to become a<br />

large archive room.<br />

Toilets, showers and a small kitchenette are located<br />

on the upper level (Fig. 6).<br />

The meeting room remains in its old location on the<br />

lower level (Fig. 5). However modifications were made<br />

to isolate it by defining it spatially, and to re<strong>du</strong>ce sound<br />

echoes and create thermal isolation.<br />

A museum to expose our rich club heritage (next<br />

article) was situated in front of the entrance next to the<br />

equipment room. This gave it more value and central<br />

position with special lighting effects.<br />

Finally an area in the middle of the club was allocated<br />

for training activities optimal for maintaining physical<br />

fitness and technical abilities of the club members.<br />

This includes ropes and ladders to practice SRT<br />

techniques. A 120 sqm climbing wall with overhangs and<br />

a bouldering area in the shape of an arc resembling part<br />

of a tunnel-cave that highlights our caving identity is also<br />

present in this area (Fig. 7).<br />

This dream come to life, a child of SCL’s intuition<br />

and years of hard work, is what we were all waiting for; it<br />

is what we still needed for our family to become closer to<br />

accomplished: we finally have what we can proudly call<br />

HOME. Now, even Our Thursday’s meeting place will<br />

very soon take form in our newly born Darling Hub.<br />

SCl would like to acknowledge all those who helped and<br />

contributed to make the SCl club-house reality.<br />

96 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 97


CAVING HERITAGE MUSEUM<br />

PROTECTING<br />

OUR caving<br />

heriTage<br />

SCL’S CAVING HISTORY<br />

AND HERITAGE MUSEUM<br />

The ever growing need to collect,<br />

organize, store and display varied<br />

caving items, revealing the long history<br />

and heritage of caving in Lebanon, has<br />

lead the SCL to allocate a small corner<br />

in the its headquarters in Qanabet<br />

Broumana, Lebanon to be the home<br />

of the Caving History And Heritage<br />

Museum.<br />

After cavers stop caving their<br />

equipment is usually stored away and<br />

collects <strong>du</strong>st. It is a huge loss if these<br />

items are sold or thrown away as they<br />

represent the history of caving exploits.<br />

After the dawning of the<br />

millennium the SCL decided that along<br />

with allocating a specific section in the<br />

club house for a library and an archive<br />

they decided, with a limited budget, to<br />

allocate a special space for a Caving<br />

History and Heritage Museum within<br />

the caving club headquarters. With the<br />

great efforts of dedicated cavers such<br />

as Issam B. J., Karen M. and Rena K.<br />

the idea came into life. When cavers<br />

were contacted and informed of the<br />

nature of the project contributions to<br />

the museum began and have continued<br />

to trickle in ever since.<br />

In wooden cabinets behind<br />

protective glass, the museum displays<br />

a varied array of caving paraphernalia<br />

Karen Moarkech | karenmoarkech@hotmail.com<br />

تادعم نم هب ساب لا ددع ضرعو ظفح ,بيرعت ,عمجل ةحلملا ةجاحلا le besoin permanent de rassembler, organiser, conserver et exposer les différents objets<br />

لايجلال يخيراتلا نوزخملا اذه نايبتو اهيلع ةضفاحملل ةميدقلا نيروغتسملا de spéléo, révélant la longue histoire et l’héritage de la spéléologie au liban, a mené le sCl<br />

نم بناج رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبلا يدانلا صصخي نا ىلا تدا ةمداقلا à consacrer un petit coin dans ses locaux à qannabet Broumana, pour être l’emplacement<br />

.نانبل يف راوغتسلاا ثارت فحتملل ةاون نوكيل انامرب ةبانق يف هرقم<br />

<strong>du</strong> musée d’Histoire et d’Héritage de la spéléologie au liban.<br />

(Fig 1). The current museum is made of<br />

four stands composed of shelves on the<br />

upper part and closets on the bottom.<br />

The closet holds the major part of the<br />

items classified into different categories<br />

according to their nature. Due to space<br />

and financial limitations only significant<br />

items of each group are displayed inside<br />

the glass shelves.<br />

The following briefly describes each<br />

group and some of the interesting items<br />

displayed:<br />

Rocks collected from caving<br />

expedition form an interesting section<br />

in the museum. Rocks such as geodes,<br />

breccia, pisolites, limestone, dolomite<br />

and fossils that reveal the geological<br />

history of Lebanon are all present.<br />

Each rock is carefully labelled and<br />

displaced. Cavers can not go by without<br />

understanding some of the geological<br />

history of Lebanon and how few types of<br />

rocks form and evolve.<br />

The next category ‘Speleothems’<br />

represents a big number of concretions<br />

from different forms of calcite to tar.<br />

Decalcified stalactites, calcite crystals,<br />

cave fans, cave corals, cave pearls,<br />

stalactites and stalagmites are all<br />

displayed. A few cave pearls were cut<br />

and are displayed to show the concentric<br />

rings. They e<strong>du</strong>cate the audience on their<br />

Fig. 1<br />

a general view of one of the museum’s cabinets showing old helmets,<br />

geodes and old caving photography equipment.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

beauty and fragility.<br />

It is worth noting here that the SCL are<br />

aware of the fragility of caves. They have a<br />

clear picture on the natural conditions and<br />

time needed for a cave to grow and thus<br />

don’t collect anything from inside caves.<br />

The famous ‘take only pictures from caves’<br />

stands but in Lebanon many caves are<br />

being destroyed by construction activities<br />

such as roads, houses and quarries. When<br />

we know a cave is going to be destroyed<br />

we enter and remove any elements we<br />

deem important and e<strong>du</strong>cational after<br />

documenting it carefully.<br />

Animal and human remains and<br />

artefacts such as bones, pottery and<br />

jewellery have a category on there own<br />

and they are worth noting. Those items are<br />

collected and documented by specialized<br />

cavers from caves in Lebanon. Examples<br />

include the Brown Bear bones (ursus<br />

actors cf. syriacus) including several skulls<br />

that were found in Mgharet el-Wahch in<br />

Lebanon. Those items are valuable since<br />

this species is not found in Lebanon<br />

anymore. Some pottery remains from the<br />

burial site found in Mgharet Michane.<br />

War has been with Lebanon since<br />

its creation. War artefacts were and will<br />

always be found in caves. Caves <strong>du</strong>ring the<br />

war were used as places to store, hide and<br />

even <strong>du</strong>mp weapons. Several items of war<br />

Fig. 2<br />

ٌreport written by samir akil about his shoe adventures in jiita cave.<br />

are displayed. The items were disarmed<br />

and extracted from caves with the help<br />

of the Lebanese Army. They include<br />

hand grenades, guns and shells.<br />

Caving, like any other extreme<br />

sport, relies on specialized technical<br />

equipment in order to progress. For that<br />

reason, a number of tools have been<br />

developed by the cavers throughout time<br />

and that equipment uncovers the history<br />

of caving not only in Lebanon but also in<br />

the world. This history is unfolded to all<br />

visitor of this museum.<br />

Personal equipment such as<br />

ascenders, descenders, harnesses,<br />

anchors, carabiners and helmets are<br />

exhibited. Some of the highlights are<br />

the first helmet that was made in 1953<br />

by Raymond Khawam made of a simple<br />

metallic head light connected to a<br />

carbide lamp (Fig. 3). In comparison, a<br />

‘modern’ helmet is also displayed that<br />

played an important role in saving the<br />

life of a caver when a 1000cm 3 rock fell<br />

on his head in Houet el Dakhoun. As<br />

well as that a broken Croll from Qattine<br />

Azar Sinkhole is present. The Croll broke<br />

400m underground and the caver had to<br />

hold the Croll closed using his hand all<br />

the way to the surface.<br />

The harness that was made by SCL<br />

cavers from Tripoli, when they were<br />

eager to do caving before they could<br />

have a chance to join SCL and learn<br />

proper caving techniques. An anchor,<br />

similar to the hook that we use today in<br />

aid climbing, that was used by Marwan<br />

Zgheib in the exploration of Houet el<br />

Aaqroub is also displayed. This anchor<br />

allowed the cavers to explore a new<br />

section of the cave when he used it<br />

to pull himself 20m towards a distant<br />

pinnacle. The anchor was thrown until it<br />

hooked and then the caver pulled himself<br />

towards the pinnacle.<br />

The category ‘photography’<br />

displays items such as old cameras,<br />

flash holders and bulbs used in the fifties<br />

and sixties as photographic aid tools.<br />

Most of the black and white photos<br />

we see today were taken with such<br />

equipment donated by Sami Karkabi.<br />

Sami Karkabi has donated many of<br />

his old clothes such as the tops worn on<br />

their exploration of Fouar Dara where the<br />

cold and water elements inside the cave<br />

presented its own problems.<br />

Samir Akil’s handmade shoe is<br />

also exhibited when he lost one of his<br />

boots 3km inside Jiita at the beginning<br />

of a three day expedition and had to put<br />

together (from inner tube lining) a shoe<br />

to protect his foot and complete the<br />

expedition.<br />

Fig. 3<br />

one of the carbide lamps used in the jiita cave explorations in the 50’s.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

Figure 2 shows the hand written<br />

Arabic formula that shows the way the<br />

boots were assembled.<br />

Other minor items are classified under<br />

general speleological items such as food<br />

items used by the first expeditions. Old<br />

cans that have been removed from Jiita and<br />

Fouar Dara are exhibited.<br />

The museum now represents a<br />

historical memory of the efforts made<br />

by different generations of cavers in the<br />

exploration of the caves in Lebanon. It<br />

offers a wide range of speleological tools<br />

that had been used since the foundation of<br />

the club in the 50’s. The SCL museum has<br />

gone through the first step of referencing<br />

some scattered and forgotten caving items.<br />

<strong>Al</strong>though tedious the effort should not stop<br />

and the museum should grow. Members<br />

should actively contact old cavers and<br />

collect their old no-longer-being-used caving<br />

paraphernalia that most still keep probably<br />

under their beds or in garages. A bigger<br />

collection could also be exposed after<br />

finding proper funding, making the museum<br />

more informative to its visitors. Old and<br />

new reports and maps will be hopefully<br />

displayed in the near future. This window<br />

will hopefully highlight the importance of<br />

such museum and will attract in the near<br />

future support and funds to preserve this<br />

part of Lebanese history.<br />

98 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 99


CAVE CLIMBING<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude | iboujaoude@gmail.com<br />

Additional contributions by fadi farra, Michel Mufarej and Samer Harb<br />

‘LOOK UP, THERE<br />

MUST BE SOMETHING<br />

HIDDEN BEHIND THAT<br />

DARK HOLE…’<br />

There is always a high dark unreachable hole that could lead to new passages or to a tight<br />

impenetrable squeeze or just simply to nowhere. Yet we can never know until we actually climb to reach<br />

it. So a small group of avid SCL cavers learnt to rock climb in order to reach these seemingly inaccessible<br />

parts of caves.<br />

Most often the ‘adventure’ is the journey itself rather than the ultimate destination. This journey<br />

took us to six different Lebanese caves in the last few years where we witnessed and lived various cave<br />

climbing adventures.<br />

متعلا اذه فلخ دجوي اذام ىلعا ىلا رظنا<br />

جرخت اهنمو ملاحلاا أدبت اذكه .سمادلا<br />

ماق .رواغملا لخاد قلستلا تارماغم تارماغملا<br />

يف بيقنتلل ينانبلا يدانلا يروغتسم نم ضعب<br />

ةعفترملا نكاملأا قلصتب صصختلا يفرواغملا<br />

فلخ دجوي اذام فاشتكلأ رواغملا لخاد<br />

ةسلا تلاحرلا ةيمها نا .سمادلا متعلا اذه<br />

رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا يروغتسمل<br />

نم هنمظتت ام يه ةقباسلا ةليلقلا ماوعلأأ يف<br />

.هتاذ دحب فدهلا سيلو قيوشتو ةرماغم<br />

This is how it usually<br />

starts and this is how<br />

we begin dreaming of<br />

a certain cave climb.<br />

‘Regarde là-haut, il devrait y avoir quelque chose qui se cache derrière<br />

ce trou noir…’ C’est généralement comme ça qu’on commence à<br />

rêver d’une escalade en grotte. on trouve toujours un trou noir, haut et<br />

inaccessible qui pourrait nous mener à de nouveaux passages, parfois<br />

serrés, très étroits, même impénétrables, ou menant à tout simplement<br />

rien. Mais nous ne pouvons le savoir qu’après avoir grimpé pour y<br />

arriver. un petit groupe avide de spéléologues <strong>du</strong> sCl ont alors appris à<br />

escalader dans le but de pouvoir atteindre les parties inaccessibles des<br />

grottes. Très souvent, c’est l’excursion elle-même qui fait ‘l’aventure’<br />

plutôt que la destination finale. Nous avons été dans six différentes<br />

grottes libanaises où nous avons vécu et assisté à des aventures<br />

variées d’escalade en grotte.<br />

JIITA Ever since the days of Sami K. and his team, every black<br />

hole observed in the ceiling and cliffs of this cave was a target of<br />

some sort of climbing endeavour. There are hundreds of potential<br />

climbs that still need to be attempted though and one cannot<br />

but help dream of finding other galleries like Salle Rouge, Salle<br />

Blanche and Salle Beayno in the amazing Jiita cave. One small<br />

adventure however has led us up a massive flowstone at camp<br />

SCL in Jiita cave.<br />

At the entrance of camp SCL, 1000m from the terminal<br />

siphon, looking up to the left one can clearly see a big flowstone<br />

that embraces the ceiling. During the 2007 Salle Beayno<br />

expedition, attempts were made to unravel its mystery and try to<br />

find a possible connection to Salle Beayno from this upper level.<br />

The climb starts from the right side as a fairly easy free<br />

climb. This was easily traversed with no rope onto a ledge<br />

that passed to the left side of the flowstone. By then we are<br />

approximately 15m from the floor and at the bottom of the giant<br />

flowstone (Fig. 1).<br />

Team 1 (Samer H., Hani H., and Hiba A.) lead by Rena K.,<br />

started the climb by using aid climbing techniques. They climbed<br />

several meters and decided to go laterally for 20m in order to<br />

reach a ledge which led to another climb up to the top of the<br />

giant flowstone. Five bolts were planted, starting the traverse.<br />

Team 2 continued (Elias L., Harout G., Samir A. and Issam B<br />

(the team leader)), where they planted several bolts to get to<br />

the ledge on the other extremity of the flowstone. The ledge<br />

was actually a small muddy room with small stalagmites and<br />

stalactites. Elias L. and Harout G. traversed the ledge and then<br />

decided to continue the climb. Issam belayed Elias who had to<br />

lead climb up the flowstone to get to a small opening at its top.<br />

He disappeared behind the flowstone only to shout later that he<br />

could not go further for it was too narrow to penetrate. Our hope<br />

of connecting this section with the Beayno Gallery faded.<br />

Fig. 1<br />

Team 1 attempting the climb to the ‘flowstone’ in jiita cave.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

ROUEISS<br />

At the intersection between two major geological faults<br />

a dark hole up in the roof of the Dream Theater (a huge room in<br />

the upper galleries of Rouaiss cave (Figure 2)), held captive the<br />

imagination of a few SCL cavers in 2001. These cavers, that<br />

committed themselves to this impressive 100m climb, could not<br />

but admit that the climb led absolutely…. nowhere.<br />

The following report was written by two members of the<br />

climbing team, Michel Moufarege & Fadi Farra:<br />

The very enigma of the knowledgeable Lebanese<br />

caver who is supposed to have been to the<br />

most frequently visited cave in Lebanon,<br />

namely Roueiss cave, was undoubtedly the upper<br />

galleries ceiling that revealed to the attentive<br />

eye an intriguing chimney whose end blurred in<br />

the deep darkness of the cave.<br />

Given the imprecise and aging map of the<br />

Roueiss cave drawn by the club years ago, in<br />

addition to the cave being quite large and mazy,<br />

the Committee had launched a contest in 2001,<br />

in which club members would unite in teams and<br />

complete a new topography of the cave by the<br />

end of the year. The winning team was to obtain<br />

caving overalls at the next general assembly.<br />

We did not really have the competition in<br />

mind, but rather the will to reveal what lay<br />

above this unreachable level. An unorganized yet<br />

energetic team was randomly assembled <strong>du</strong>ring a<br />

Thursday meeting, composed of Michel Moufarege,<br />

Jean-Claude Janssens, Fadi Farra, and Aram<br />

Sulkdjian. We were accompanied sporadically by<br />

May Farra and Youssef Assaf, who was tested,<br />

for the first time, on the rope, in quite a<br />

challenging first time environment.<br />

It was undoubtedly our “Spiderman”,<br />

Michel, who took the lead of the climb, as<br />

fearlessly and as crazily as the superhero.<br />

Closely followed by Jean-Claude, who took care<br />

by passing the equipment periodically, and<br />

Fadi who ensured safety (if any) and suggested<br />

itineraries by looking at the “big picture”.<br />

It took us five outings and as much as 20<br />

bolts to reach the top, which unfortunately<br />

dead-ended. The cliff is quite large (width<br />

ranging 7-25m depending on the height) and<br />

extends up to approximately 100 m. At the end<br />

of the cliff, an overhang reveals a slightly<br />

upward-angled slope, presenting several active<br />

concretions, mainly coatings and rim stone<br />

dams on the wall, and each side surrounded<br />

by stalactites and stalagmites often joining<br />

together in a column. The end can be simply<br />

described as the junction of the ceiling and the<br />

slope. A small hole on the upper right corner<br />

gives at first sight a hope of continuation,<br />

yet turns out way too small to fit anyone.’<br />

Fig. 2<br />

photographs of the dream Theatre in roueiss cave where the climb was done.<br />

(Photo by elias labaki)<br />

100 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 101<br />

CAMP SCL, THE GIANT ORANGE FLOWSTONE<br />

UP 100M AND THAT IS IT


AL KASSARAT<br />

HOW NARROW CAN IT GET?<br />

In the summer of 2005, a dark space, which signalled the<br />

possible presence of a gallery, was observed at an elevation of<br />

approximately 37m from the underground river in <strong>Al</strong>-Kassarat<br />

Cave. It is located on the wall opposite to the President<br />

Gallery, slightly offset from it (Fig. 3).<br />

A potential climb was confirmed <strong>du</strong>ring the wet season<br />

of that year when the water, of the underground river, was<br />

12 meter higher than normal. Bolts were planted <strong>du</strong>ring that<br />

season to facilitate the climb <strong>du</strong>ring the dry season and to have<br />

a jump start on this climb (Figure 4) in summer when the river’s<br />

elevation went back down to normal.<br />

Aid and traditional climbing techniques were applied with<br />

the help of a battery powered drill to climb the remaining 25<br />

meters (Fig. 5). Thick mud covered the wall making them<br />

slippery and the climb dangerous. The danger was not only<br />

from slipping but also from dislodged blocks. Unstable loose<br />

blocks of different sizes were continuously falling on the<br />

climber and his be-layer. Fifteen bolts were planted along<br />

the route with several natural rigs. At one point Rena K. got<br />

flustered, after I inquired about the problem, she pointed out<br />

that we were hanging in the middle of a cliff, at around 25m<br />

from the ground, with no rope going up and no rope going<br />

down and just hanging on a few natural rigs and some bolts.<br />

Fig. 3<br />

The climbed cliff face and the entrance to the discovered gallery<br />

with the rigged rope seen in the lower middle.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

I had not noticed this predicament as I had been climbing for a<br />

while, but to a caver, having no rope is like cutting their lifeline. It<br />

was interesting to note the difference in thoughts, and I planted<br />

another rigging point just so that she would feel more comfortable!<br />

I do not think she did.<br />

It took us two attempts to reach a huge opening next to the<br />

roof. Rena K. was the first to reach the top followed by Johnny T.<br />

then myself. According to Rena K. the last few meters of the climb<br />

were the most treacherous for no rig points could be found and<br />

very thick mud was covering most of the slope.<br />

The dark hole was actually a big opening that led to a short<br />

walk able passage that narrows down very quickly into a very<br />

tight squeeze. We had to remove a few rocks in the passage<br />

to squeeze ourselves through after taking all our climbing gear<br />

off. As usual Rena K. was the first to go in for she is the most<br />

experienced person in these tight squeeze passages. I followed and<br />

to our surprise we found out that it connects after 40 meters with<br />

the Well Gallery. The map published in the Ouat Ouate magazine<br />

issue 13 year 2005 shows the connection.<br />

Not that there wasn’t a great discovery at the end of this<br />

climb, especially in length discovered, but the attempt and the<br />

success themselves are what matters the most and what we will<br />

always be remembered.<br />

Fig. 4<br />

Drilling the first bolts when the water was high after spotting the potential climb.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Joude)<br />

Fig. 5<br />

Issam B.J. climbing the cliff face with Johnny T. belaying him.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

In the years following its rediscovery in 2001, Jihad<br />

sinkhole was the focus of many caving trips. Only 60 vertical<br />

meters separate it from the underground river of the <strong>Al</strong> Kassarat<br />

Cave. For this reason, any potential opening and climb was being<br />

investigated to try to make the connection.<br />

A potential continuation lured in my mind for several years;<br />

until 2006 when it was attempted. Located at the lowest level L8<br />

(Kronfol et al 2001) was a small opening at the extreme end of<br />

the diamond gallery. This might be the one that will finally get us<br />

to the underground river. The diamond gallery is named after its<br />

calcite spar crystals of various sizes that covers its walls (Figure<br />

6).<br />

The opening required a lateral traverse. In the first attempt<br />

we rigged the traverse and reached the opening after planting four<br />

bolts and assembling a natural rig (Fig. 7). Rena K. as usual was<br />

the first to go in the tight squeeze. After a few meters she reached<br />

a drop of 7 meters which led to another beautiful gallery decorated<br />

with the same but larger spar like calcite crystals. At the end<br />

of the small room another 12 meters climb was spotted with a<br />

potential continuation.<br />

JIHAD<br />

The new climb was attempted on a second trip. I started<br />

the climb using aid and traditional climbing techniques. Rena<br />

K. was my belay and Fadi T. was the support team. Climbing<br />

was tricky but not slippery. A lot of the crystal and small dark<br />

chert ledges were crumbling under my feet. Several bolts were<br />

planted and natural rigs were assembled and the climb ended<br />

after 10 m.<br />

Boom there it was… a big, big fault plane. Do not get me<br />

wrong! I love finding geological features inside caves but that<br />

time I hated it. The fault plane was flat, long and completely<br />

cutting off any passage that might possibly continue.<br />

The total development was approximately 40m with a<br />

7m drop and a 12m climb. The survey of this section of the<br />

discovery was published in the last issue of the magazine<br />

(Ouat Ouate, 14).<br />

Another black hole that led to a small discovery,<br />

however, it did not end up connecting the cave to the<br />

underground river of <strong>Al</strong> Kassarat Cave which is what we were<br />

hoping for. Well maybe next time!<br />

Fig. 7<br />

The large calcite crystals covering the walls.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

Fig. 8<br />

The opening is situated in the middle of the photograph.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

ADVENTURES IN CAVE CLIMBING<br />

Fig. 6<br />

The traverse-line being set up to the<br />

opening shown in the dotted red circle.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

102 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 103<br />

SINKHOLE<br />

TAKE THIS…. A FAULT PLANE!


AIN EL KEDDAH (ALBERT SINKHOLE)<br />

SINKHOLE<br />

INTRODUCTION TO CAVE CLIMBING<br />

I have never been to Ain el Keddah Sinkhole before. In June<br />

2007, I decided, with a few SCL cavers, to rig this sinkhole and<br />

check it out. Who would have known that it was going to be a<br />

trap? No one had thought that we might be in for a new climbing<br />

adventure.<br />

‘Look up there at that dark spot in the ceiling. There must<br />

be something up there.’ I called upon Rena K. at the bottom of the<br />

sinkhole, a few meters of the terminal siphon. ‘We might be able to<br />

bypass the siphon from above.’<br />

<strong>Al</strong>l that can be said is that <strong>Al</strong>bert sinkhole has a lot of<br />

potential being in the Kersrouane Formation of Jurassic aged<br />

dolomitic limestone rocks.<br />

Here we go again. Another climb.<br />

It took us three outings to complete the climb and<br />

exploration, two outings in June and July of 2007 respectively<br />

and one in May 2008. A combination between aid climbing and<br />

traditional climbing techniques got us up the first 13m where a<br />

small ledge was present. The first few meters were the hardest<br />

and Rena’s face got a blow from my rubber boots after a 3m fall<br />

where I kicked her cheek in. We took turns climbing and Samer H.<br />

was available to assist and act as the belayer.<br />

The following is a section of the report written by Samer H.<br />

after his intro<strong>du</strong>ction to cave climbing in <strong>Al</strong>bert Sinkhole.<br />

This is how I was intro<strong>du</strong>ced to cave climbing.<br />

I was ‘invited’ to climb up to the first level and check<br />

what’s going on.<br />

Innocently I clipped and climbed up. I was eager to<br />

reach the platform Issam was talking about, I mean I was<br />

hoping to reach an actual platform where one can rest<br />

and just sit and look around and enjoy the cave… well…<br />

not only have I reached an uncomfortable place where I<br />

had to stay standing attached with my short cowstail but<br />

also I had to find room for Rena who came up right after<br />

me to continue the climb! …<br />

As usual, getting trained to do something new<br />

doesn’t take away the rush of the actual experience…<br />

In other words, all the trainings that we got and<br />

being exposed to climbing techniques involving working<br />

at dizzying heights, didn’t prevent me from staring<br />

continuously at the anchor I’m attached to, as if making<br />

sure it won’t pop out!…naturally enough it was not easy<br />

to see no rope going up and no rope going down, but just<br />

a few anchors or two to trust…<br />

The position became natural afterwards and I had<br />

something else to worry about, for I had to secure<br />

Rena’s climb…she went up and placed three additional<br />

spits and replaced all the knots, a major feat as we<br />

wanted to remain secured properly, then it was time to<br />

leave…”<br />

It took us two outings to climb 28m (Fig. 9) and reach a safe<br />

ledge at the top few meters below the ceiling. The platform was<br />

actually blocks of fallen boulders that were detached from the<br />

roof along a big fault plane (Fig. 10). It was tricky to manoeuvre<br />

between and over those boulders. In May 2008, we completed a<br />

loop (Fig. 11) where the top ledges go backwards and actually<br />

bypass the siphon room and reached the main chamber at the<br />

bottom of the 50 meters pitch.<br />

At the end, the dirty siphon of this sinkhole was not<br />

bypassed. A rope was left dangling from the ceiling, as a witness<br />

to the climb and everything that had happened.<br />

Fig. 9<br />

The climb from the bottom of <strong>Al</strong>bert Sinkhole. (Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

Fig. 10<br />

Elias L. on big blocks of rock forming a ledge at the top of the climb. (Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Fig. 11<br />

The Gallery at the top of the climb in <strong>Al</strong>bert sinkhole. (Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

This cave was lost for a couple of years but was rediscovered<br />

in 2007 when SCL cavers mapped and studied this cave and<br />

discovered new sections. The next issue of the magazine will hold a<br />

lot of information on this cave and the spring that issues from it. For<br />

the sake of this article I will only discuss information related to two<br />

cave climb attempts that tried to uncover what is behind those dark<br />

holes in the roof.<br />

Is there an upper gallery and can we bypass the terminal<br />

siphon? The first potential climb was located not far from the<br />

entrance, only 100m in a small room that has a chimney of around<br />

20m. Similar to most of our climbs, the aid and traditional climbing<br />

techniques were used to get to the first platform, 10 meters from<br />

the bottom. The first few moves and first two rigs were the worst.<br />

Rena K. belayed me and then followed me up to the first ledge.<br />

The ledge is only 1m in width and approximately 5m length. After<br />

checking the second pitch, it was clear that it was narrowing down.<br />

It narrowed down to 20 cm in width and 3 meters in length and<br />

finally the ceiling could be clearly seen (Fig 12). So we descended<br />

back to the ground and headed towards the second climb at the<br />

terminal siphon.<br />

In the hope of bypassing the terminal siphon of this cave, a<br />

small 12m chimney was the focus of our second attempt in that<br />

cave. The following is an excerpt from the report I had written after<br />

the climbing incident that had taken place on August 4, 2007.<br />

Fig. 12<br />

Map and cross section showing the location of the first climb in El Hadid Cave<br />

ADVENTURES IN CAVE CLIMBING<br />

EL HADID<br />

We got to the siphon and Rena K. managed well in<br />

planting the first bolt, and using aid climbing ladders to<br />

help her climb higher up into the chimney. The chimney is<br />

around 12m so she had to plant a second and the third bolt.<br />

The rock face was covered with a layer of slippery mud but<br />

she managed well after the third bolt to sit on the ledge<br />

at the top of the first pitch and tried to explore and look<br />

around for any continuation.<br />

Suddenly she shouted, ‘Oh my God, I cannot hold it for<br />

long!!!’<br />

‘What?’ I shouted back …<br />

‘I cannot carry it for long….it is on my lap and it is<br />

heavy,’ she said<br />

‘What is that Ka Rena what are you talking about?’ I<br />

said,<br />

Rena then says ‘Issaaaaaam ….’ in the sharp Rena voice,<br />

‘I have a huge rock sitting in my lap and I cannot<br />

hold on to it and I need to throw it down…so you better<br />

take cover and move all the stuff from under me’.<br />

What had happened was as Rena was adjusting her<br />

position at the top a huge boulder that looked very stable<br />

dislodged from the mud. She managed to hold on to it<br />

directly on her lap so it would not fall down without<br />

warning.‘But what about the dynamic rope?’, I asked<br />

‘I have no choice’ Rena said ‘I will try to throw it<br />

away from the rope…’<br />

I shoved everything under the ledge and took cover and<br />

called to Rena<br />

‘Throw it, but be careful throw it away form the<br />

dynamic rope you that you are tied to it.’ And so she did.<br />

The rock came tumbling and roaring down and dropped<br />

next to her carbide lamp which I had forgotten to move out<br />

of the way.<br />

Sorry Rena, I know you like your Hisbollah yellow carbide<br />

lamp but I forgot it.<br />

It did survive though as the rock missed it by 10cm.<br />

It was close ….‘Are you ok?’ …. ‘yes’… ‘are you’… ‘yes’, we<br />

exchanged concerns for it was a big big rock,....Then Rena<br />

calls down, ‘I am coming down, it is too unstable here...’<br />

‘OK. ..come down. No worries. But check around if there is<br />

something worth the risk …’<br />

Rena used her light to check her surrounding<br />

especially the section in the direction of the terminal<br />

siphon that we hoped to bypass. ‘No no’ says Rena ‘nothing<br />

worth it … nothing much is up here anyways…only mud’<br />

‘Ok ok let us leave, there is nothing up here.’<br />

No further discussions were made. Rena descended.<br />

Black holes are not only rewarding but also dangerous and<br />

adventuring into them is like venturing into treacherous unknown<br />

territories. Rena felt the real danger that day and so did I.<br />

Going up does not always get you closer to heaven. That dark spot<br />

in the ceiling most of the time leads nowhere. It is indeed the adventure<br />

in trying that makes climbing inside caves so unpredictable. Climbing<br />

upwards is a fine venture in itself for that is the undertaking which is<br />

always e<strong>du</strong>cational, satisfying and rewarding even if it does end with a<br />

kick in the face or having to throw a huge rock on your be-layer.<br />

104 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 105<br />

CAVE<br />

A ROCK IN THE LAP<br />

REFERENCES<br />

-Folded map of Kassarat cave, 2005. Ouat Ouate, Issue 13.<br />

-Houet Jihad Extension, 2008. Ouat Ouate, Issue 14, Page 113.<br />

-Houet <strong>Al</strong>bert Reports, 2007. SCL Archives, Onnabit Broummana, Lebanon.<br />

-Kronfol B., Bou Jawdeh I., Metni M., and Karanouh, R., 2001. An ongoing<br />

speleological exploration jihad Sinkhole : Nabay, Lebanon. The proceeding<br />

of the Middle-East Speleologiclal Symposium, edts., Bou Jawdeh, I,<br />

Hughes, B. and Karanouh, R.<br />

-Mgharet el Roueiss Reports, 2008. SCL Archives, Annabit Broummana,<br />

Lebanon


INTERNATIONAL CAVING<br />

Johnny W. Tawk | johnnytok@hotmail.com<br />

THE SPELEO CLUB<br />

DU LIBAN IN IRAN<br />

IntErnatIonal<br />

SpElEologIcal<br />

ExpEdItIon<br />

to Iran, ISEI-2008<br />

23 September – 6 october 2008<br />

Habib el Helou | helou_habib@hotmail.com<br />

Fadi Nader<br />

SCL went abroad again, this time to join the<br />

International Speleological Expedition to Iran (ISEI-<br />

2008). Organized between 23 September and 6 October<br />

2008 under the patronage of the UIS, three members<br />

from Lebanon, Fadi Nader (expedition leader), Habib el<br />

Helou and Johnny Tawk joined the twelve cavers from<br />

Switzerland, Croatia, & Belgium (Fig. 1).<br />

The objectives of the expedition were to train<br />

thirty-eight Iranian cavers on self cave-rescue, cave<br />

topography, cave photography, and cave exploration. To<br />

achieve those objectives the thirty-eight Iranian cavers<br />

were split into two groups. Each group focuses on two<br />

different caves.<br />

<strong>Al</strong>though the expedition was set to train the<br />

Iranians, several new discoveries were recorded and<br />

proper documentations of new and old finds were<br />

collected from the four caves visited <strong>du</strong>ring training.<br />

The four caves that were visited are Bournic cave (near<br />

Harandeh village), Gholezard cave (near Polour village),<br />

Yakh Morad cave in Kohnedeh Village and Ghalekord<br />

cave in Qazvin area (Fig. 2). They will be presented<br />

below by order of visit <strong>du</strong>ring the expedition.<br />

,ردان يداف مه رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبلا يدانلا نم ءاضعأ ثلاث كراش<br />

داحتلأا لبق نم ةمظنملا )ISEI 2008( يف قوط ينوجو ,ولحلا بيبح<br />

نيروغتسملا نم ددعل ثلاثلا ءاضعلأا مضنا. )UIS( راوغتسلأل يملاعلا<br />

ىلع مهتدعاسمو نييناريلأا نيروغتسملا ضعب نيرمتب اوماقو ابوروا نم<br />

ةراغم , دازيلوغ ةراغم ,كينروب ةراغم : يه رواغم عبرا قيثوتو فاشتكا<br />

.دروكيلاغ ةراغم ,دارومخي<br />

| fadi-henri.nader@ifp.fr<br />

Fig. 1<br />

<strong>Al</strong>l the cavers on the final day of the expedition in Tehran amphitheater.<br />

Fig. 2<br />

A cropped map for Iran showing the itinerary of the expedition near Tehran province.<br />

Le SCL est parti à l’étranger de nouveau, cette fois-ci pour participer à l’Expédition<br />

Internationale de <strong>Spéléo</strong>logie en Iran 2008, organisée sous le patronage de l’UIS dont<br />

trois membres <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>, Fadi Nader (chef de l’expédition), Habib el Helou et Johnny Tawk<br />

se sont joints aux douze spéléologues venant d’Europe. Même si l’expédition avait pour<br />

but de former les spéléologues iraniens, plusieurs nouvelles découvertes ont été notées et<br />

des documentations convenables de nouvelles et anciennes trouvailles ont été recueillies<br />

dans quatre grottes visitées: les grottes Bournic, Gholezard, Yakh Morad et Ghalekord.<br />

Fig. 3<br />

The entrance of Bournic Cave near Harandeh village.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

BOURNIC CAVE<br />

Bournic cave is in Harandeh village which is located<br />

about 125 km from Tehran city. This cave is a touristic<br />

cave which was previously partly mapped by two Austrians<br />

clubs, “Verein Fur Hohlerkunde in Obsersteier (VHO)<br />

and Bad Mitterndorf in 2007. The length of the surveyed<br />

passages was approximately 517.1m in horizontal<br />

development and 86.1m of vertical development.<br />

This cave is characterized by a big 14 meters wide<br />

entrance (Fig. 3). Close to the entrance a new 91.56m long<br />

gallery was discovered (Fig. 4 and 5) and surveyed by the<br />

Iranian trainee team under the supervision of Neven Bocic.<br />

It extends in the SE direction.<br />

Going right from the big entrance, a concrete stairway<br />

goes down towards a big hall, about 60m long and 24m<br />

wide. From that big Hall and to the left another concrete<br />

stairway goes down further 30m. At that depth SCL cavers<br />

mapped a 370m long section and explored a new gallery<br />

approximately 50 m long full of concretions (Fig. 5).<br />

Fig. 5<br />

Map of Bournic cave showing both the Austrians and the ISEI 2008 survey, (Digitized by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 4<br />

Exploration inside Bournic cave.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk).<br />

106 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 107


GOLEZARD CAVE<br />

Located in Polur village, north East Tehran and nearby<br />

Damavand Mountain, Golezard cave was the second stop.<br />

It is a wonderful cave with plenty of speleothems, with an<br />

active river and lakes (Fig. 6). Habib H., Johnny T. and<br />

two Iranians entered the cave and equipped a traverse line<br />

beyond the second waterfall (Fig. 7). Unfortunately, no<br />

continuation was found. The cave is well surveyed and<br />

explored. The air temperature is approximately 13 o C and<br />

water temperature is 12 o C. The end terminates in a huge<br />

collapse.<br />

Fig. 6<br />

Traverse line inside Ghalekord cave.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 7<br />

Inside Ghalekord cave.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 9<br />

The cavers at the final day of the expedition.<br />

YAKHMORAD CAVE<br />

The Yakhmorad cave (healing ice) is located on the<br />

west side of Kohnedeh village at an altitude around 2350m<br />

above sea level (Fig. 10). It is a well known touristic<br />

cave. It was mapped earlier by Iranian cavers under the<br />

supervision of Simon Brooks. The cave temperature is<br />

0 o C. After the first pitch, you could find ice everywhere<br />

in the form of waterfalls and stalactites (Fig. 11). Being<br />

accessed by the locals and visitors in the area, the cave was<br />

full of unwanted material like paper, thin ropes, gas tanks,<br />

plastics, batteries, ….<br />

A lot of exploration was done inside the cave,<br />

especially at the end of a gallery were possible<br />

continuation were noted, only 28.43m of new development<br />

was found and surveyed. On the way back, it was decided<br />

to clean the cave from the waste left by local visitors.<br />

Fig. 10<br />

Kohnedeh Village.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 11<br />

Ice waterfalls inside Yakhmorad cave.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

GHALEKORD CAVE<br />

The Ghalekord cave (Fig. 12) is located in Ghalekord<br />

village (known as the castle of the Kurds). This village is<br />

distinguished with its mud houses, water canals and tight<br />

roads.<br />

Joined by the Iranians, the surface exploration team<br />

found several small caves and two sinkholes that still need<br />

exploration. An important cave was found on the opposite<br />

side of the mountain on same altitude as Ghalekord<br />

cave named Ghalekord 2 and has a 55m of development<br />

(Fig. 13). The importance of it is that it has several<br />

archaeological remains. First, a man made wall is located<br />

at the entrance. It has three different burial chambers. In<br />

each chamber many rounded depressions were found with<br />

rocks and bones lying in the middle. Other rectangular<br />

cavities of around 1m depth were found to have a 30cm<br />

thick layer of ash. Many potteries were also identified. <strong>Al</strong>l<br />

this requires proper archeological excavation.<br />

On the other hand, Ghalekord cave was a cave that has<br />

not been mapped yet. Mapping was con<strong>du</strong>cted under the<br />

supervision of Neven Bocic. A big entrance characterizes<br />

this cave that leads to a narrow gallery towards a 12m<br />

pitch. At the bottom of the pitch, a distinguished room<br />

appeared, with a lot of side galleries. At the end of the<br />

expedition, about 500m were mapped and much work is<br />

still needed (Fig. 14). Many speleothems were observed<br />

such as cave pearls and gypsums decorations. Two big<br />

colonies of bats with noticeable quantity of guano were<br />

also observed.<br />

Joining this expedition, SCL cavers (Fig. 9) with the<br />

Iranians and the other trainers from Europe, explored<br />

and mapped more than 1000m of cave passages in four<br />

different caves. Eleven training days for 38 Iranian cavers<br />

from 12 different clubs were enough to establish tight<br />

friendship bonds between the ISEI 2008 foreign members<br />

and the Iranian cavers.<br />

Fig. 12<br />

Entrance of Ghalekord cave.<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 13<br />

Survey of Ghalekord 2 cave,<br />

Fig. 14<br />

Survey of Ghalekord cave. (digitized by Neven Bocic)<br />

108 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 109<br />

THE SCL IN IRAN


INTERNATIONAL<br />

CAVING<br />

Johnny W. Tawk | johnnytok@hotmail.com<br />

Fadi H. Nader | fadi-henri.nader@ifp.fr.<br />

Sami Karkabi | kraks@cyberia.net.lb<br />

A limited number of written documents and maps of<br />

Syrian volcanic caves are currently available. In January<br />

2008, an expedition was organized by <strong>Spéléo</strong>-<strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong><br />

<strong>Liban</strong> to As-Suwayda Province in southern Syria to<br />

explore and document lava caves. Located in the centre<br />

of the Aariqa town, Aariqa cave was our main target. In<br />

December 2008, another expedition was set to finalize<br />

the survey of Aariqa cave, and explore and survey Umm<br />

ar Rumman cave. The Ariqa cave reached 562 m in<br />

cave development and Umm ar Rumman cave resulted<br />

in 1615m. Umm ar Rumman cave is now the longest<br />

development of lava tubes in Middle-East (after Umm<br />

Jirsan in Saudi Arabia with total development: 1481.2m).<br />

This paper discusses both Umm ar Rumman and Aariqa<br />

lava caves and provides speleological, brief geological and<br />

historical investigations.<br />

INtRODUCtION<br />

As-Suwayda, Daraa and Hawran (Golan) provinces<br />

form the southwestern portion of the Syrian Arab Republic,<br />

bordering Jordan (to the south) and Palestine/Israel (to the<br />

west; Fig. 1). In the centre of this area lies Jabal Ad-Drouz<br />

volcanic range, which trends NW-SE and has a maximum<br />

elevation of 1785m (asl). This range has numerous<br />

يناثلا نوناك يف .ةردان ايروس يف ةيناكربلا رواغملا نع ةقثوملا تامولعملا<br />

رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا ءاضعا نم ددع ماق لولأا نوناك يف و<br />

اهل اقيرع نأ احضتأ .نامرلا مأو اقيرع يتراغم حسمو قيثوتو فاشتكاب<br />

نأ نيبت كلذب .م 1615 لوطب تارمم اهل نامرلا مأو م 562 لوطب تارمم<br />

.طسولأا قرشلا يف ةيناكرب ةراغم لوطا يه نامرلا مأ ةراغم<br />

Waleed Jad<br />

Bashir Khoury<br />

dIScoVErIng<br />

ES-SUWAYDA<br />

LAVA CAVES<br />

In SoUtHErn SYrIa<br />

| walidjad@onpaper.com<br />

| www.bashirkhoury.com<br />

volcanic cones, often organized in ridges whose slopes are<br />

covered with many lava flows (DUBERTRET, 1933). This<br />

volcanic terrain (called <strong>Al</strong>-Harra) stretches southwardly<br />

crossing Jordan and part of northern Saudi Arabia. In Jabal<br />

Ad-Drouz, the annual precipitation range between 200 and<br />

350mm, while in the nearby <strong>Al</strong>-Harra plain it does not exceed<br />

100mm. The average annual temperature is between +15 and<br />

+19˚C (PONIKAROV, 1967).<br />

<strong>Al</strong>though the geographical and geological aspects of this<br />

volcanic region were already studied <strong>du</strong>ring mapping surveys<br />

(DUBERTRET, 1933 & PONIKAROV, 1967), no significant<br />

exploration and surveying of the lava caves have been<br />

published to date.<br />

This contribution discusses two major caves in As-<br />

Suwayda province: Umm ar Rumman and Aariqa (Fig. 1).<br />

The first one (Aariqa cave) has a historical significance as<br />

it was used for housing in historical times. Whereas Umm<br />

ar Rumman cave is a fantastic lava cave with beautiful<br />

speleothems (volcanic and calcite) and features typical of lava<br />

tubes. Here, it must be mentioned that the whole area features<br />

historical Nabatean and Byzantine settlements before the<br />

Arabian period. A typical example of this rich historical area is<br />

the nearby Bosra town which hosts a huge amphitheatre madeup<br />

almost exclusively of carved basalt stones.<br />

Un nombre limité de documents écrits et de topographies des grottes volcaniques<br />

syriennes sont actuellement disponibles. En Janvier 2008, deux expéditions ont été<br />

organisées par le <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> dans la Province de As-Suwayda au Sud de la<br />

Syrie pour explorer et documenter deux grottes de lave: Aariqa et Umm ar Rumman. La<br />

grotte d’Ariqa atteint 562m de développement et Umm ar Rumman 1615m, faisant de<br />

cette dernière le plus long canal de coulée de lave <strong>du</strong> Moyen-Orient.<br />

Fig. 1<br />

Map of the Syrian Arab Republic, showing the approximate locations<br />

of Umm ar Rumman and Aariqa caves in As-Suwayda Province.<br />

Umm ar Rumman Cave<br />

Umm ar Rumman cave is located south of As-<br />

Suwayda near the border with Jordan, and about 20km<br />

south-east Bosra city. This lava tube is located within<br />

the earliest Quaternary sheets (1 million years in age,<br />

PONIKAROV, 1967), namely the Paehoehoe lavas, in a<br />

flat agricultural area. It is characterized by an entrance<br />

(14m deep and 20m wide) that may have been formed by<br />

roof-collapse. The entrance is cluttered with fallen rocks, a<br />

big opening leads through an inclined gallery 10m deep, to<br />

reach a linear gallery characterized by a well traced trail.<br />

The total development of Umm ar Rumman cave<br />

is 1615m (Fig. 2). As the longest reported lava tube in<br />

Arabia was the Umm Jirsan cave in Saudi Arabia with a<br />

development reaching 1481.2m (PINT, 2008; http://www.<br />

saudicaves.com/jirsan/index.htm), Umm ar Rumman<br />

becomes now the longest surveyed lava tube development<br />

in Middle East.<br />

Umm ar Rumman is a typical lava cave hosting almost<br />

all features (Fig. 3,4,5) found in volcanic caves: levees<br />

and gutters, flow ledges, splash stalactites, lava columns<br />

and drip stalagmites, as well as rafts. In addition, beautiful<br />

calcite speleothems decorate this cave.<br />

The average diameter of the tube is 7.5m with a height<br />

of 8m (Fig. 6). At 190m from the entrance, a huge collapse<br />

is located. A 1m splash stalagmite is found, near a molded<br />

tree. The collapse ended with braided maize. After a small<br />

crawl, a second part began with calcite gours covering the<br />

floor where many fragments of pottery were found. After<br />

examination, they appeared to belong to the Islamic period<br />

(Ayyoubide or Mamlouk, ref. Dr. Leila Badr, conservator<br />

of AUB Museum, American University of Beirut). In this<br />

part, many collapses change the homogeneity of the cave<br />

profile. At some places the roof could reach the height of<br />

14m.<br />

At 800m from the entrance, a braided maze was found,<br />

calcite speleothems such as popcorn, stalagmites, helectites<br />

are present in the right gallery. At the end of the right sided<br />

tunnel, the cave’s floor and walls became reddish with a lot<br />

of fallen rocks. Umm ar Rumman cave ends with a narrow<br />

10m long tunnel.<br />

Aariqa Cave<br />

The Aariqa cave is situated in the center of the Aariqa<br />

village. It was also called Ahiré cave and was used <strong>du</strong>ring<br />

different historical period in Syria. This cave is located<br />

northward of the Umm ar Rumman and within the relatively<br />

younger, recent Paehoehoe lavas which have been dated to<br />

about 4,000 years (PONIKAROV, 1966). At the end of the<br />

cave, the transition from paehoehoe basalt and the aa-lavas<br />

of the overlying (younger) sheet has been observed. The<br />

entrance is an impressive open collapse seen from the main<br />

road with average of 14m wide and 16.2m depth (Fig. 7).<br />

At -14 m from the road, and at the left side, a basaltic stair<br />

under two arches goes down 5m towards Aariqa spring used<br />

for domestic purpose in the city. The total development of<br />

the cave is 562m (Fig. 8).<br />

The entrance of the cave is protected by a carved monolithic<br />

basaltic door from Nabatean or Roman era (64 B.C to 391<br />

A.D) about 90cm wide and 110 cm high, no inscriptions<br />

are observed. After 3 steps, you could reach the first part<br />

of the cave which is an east-west 165m long tube (Fig. 8).<br />

This part is developed as a show cave, electrical cables and<br />

projectors are seen on both sides. It is 16m large and 9m<br />

high with a flat muddy clay floor caused by dripping water<br />

from lateral sides. Scarce calcite stalactites are apparent. At<br />

the end of the tube, a large chunk of wall is fallen creating<br />

lining (Fig. 9). Beyond this tube, the morphology of the<br />

cave takes different aspect followed with four smaller tubes<br />

linked by tight and low passages.<br />

The first tube (Fig. 10) is distinguish by an important<br />

rock collapse, on which we could map seven enclosures<br />

separated by non carved stone walls not exceeding than<br />

30cm. At the interior of these enclosures reveal a fireplace,<br />

animal bones and fragments of pottery (Arab period, after<br />

634 A.D, pres. Communication Dr. Leila Badr, conservator<br />

of AUB Museum, American University of Beirut). This<br />

reveal a past human occupation. Though some fragments<br />

are recent, a detailed study must be carried out in situ. The<br />

second tube is 72m long, 13m wide and 5m high. Here<br />

also, non carved stone structures are located on both sides<br />

of the floor, along with animal bones and pottery . This<br />

tube is at -12m from the touristic area. The third tube is<br />

40m long, 10m wide and 5m high. This part represents the<br />

continuation of the second tube (which is separated by a<br />

ceiling collapse (Fig. 8)). At the end of the third tube, a<br />

side passage 20m high, reaches a second entrance to the<br />

cave located in the garden of a private house. At the end of<br />

the cave, a rounded construction, bones and pottery were<br />

observed as well as dripping water. Two cupolas are seen in<br />

the ceiling.<br />

In general, the temperature of the cave is 18˚C (In<br />

December, 2008) and some volcanic formations were<br />

observed in this cave such as linings, splash stalactites,<br />

breakdown areas and contraction cracks.<br />

110 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 111


Fig. 2<br />

Survey of Umm ar Rumman Cave.<br />

(surveyed by members of the <strong>Spéléo</strong>-<strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> and drawn by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 3<br />

Photo inside Umm ar Romman Cave showing splash stalactite.<br />

(Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 4<br />

Photo inside Umm ar Romman Cave<br />

showing drip stalagmite.<br />

(Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 6<br />

Photo of a gallery inside Umm ar Romman Cave.<br />

(Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 5<br />

Photo inside Umm ar Romman Cave<br />

showing a lava feature.<br />

(Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 8<br />

Survey of <strong>Al</strong> Ariqa Cave.<br />

(surveyed by members of the <strong>Spéléo</strong>-<strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> and<br />

drawn by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 7<br />

Entrance of Aariqa Cave.<br />

(Johnny Tawk)<br />

Fig. 10<br />

The first tube inside Aariqa Cave. (Johnny Tawk)<br />

DISCOVERING ES-SUWAYDA<br />

LAVA CAVES<br />

Fig. 9<br />

Lining inside Ariqa Cave.<br />

(Johnny Tawk)<br />

CONCLUsION<br />

Two expeditions led to the exploration and surveying of two<br />

significant lava caves in southern Syria. The first, Umm ar Rumman Cave<br />

with its 1615m of underground development can be considered the longest<br />

of its kind in the Middle East. This cave probably older than a million<br />

year, is decorated with volcanic and calcite speleothems. The second<br />

which is Aariqa Cave has a development reaching 562m. It holds an<br />

important historical aspect as housing remains were found in its galleries.<br />

Most probably Aariqa Cave is younger than 4,000 years.<br />

REfERENCEs<br />

DUBERTRET, L. (1933) La Carte Géologique au millionième de la Syrie et <strong>du</strong><br />

<strong>Liban</strong>. Revue de Géographie Physique et Géolologie Dynamique, 6 (4), 269-318.<br />

PINT, J. and S. PINT (2008) Umm Jirsan: Arabia’s longest lava cave. Article on a<br />

website: http://www.saudicaves.com/jirsan/index.htm<br />

PONIKAROV, V.P. (1967) The geology of Syria: Explanatory Notes on the<br />

Geological Map of Syria, scale 1:500 000. Part I: Stratigraphy, Igneous Rocks and<br />

Tectonics. Ministry of In<strong>du</strong>stry, Syrian Arab Republic.<br />

112 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 113


INTERNATIONAL CAVING<br />

Emma Porter | 90emma@tiscali.co.uk<br />

BARLANGS<br />

In BUdapESt<br />

& UndEr<br />

AGGTELEK<br />

Fig. 1<br />

Szilvia Vaspori in Domica Cave, Slovakia.<br />

(Photo by Mike Clayton)<br />

ةقفار يتلا راوغتسلاا ثادحأ ضعب ةلاقملا هذه يورت<br />

ءاضعا ثلاثو نييناطيربلا نيروغتسملا نم رصانع<br />

ةقطنم يف رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا نم<br />

رشع يداحلا رمتؤملا يف اوكراشي نا لبق ايراغنه<br />

.رواغملا لخاد ذاقنلأل<br />

Fig. 2<br />

Beautiful concretions in Baradla Barlang, Hungary.<br />

(Photo by Mike Clayton)<br />

tHE tEAM<br />

From Speleo <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong><br />

Avo Avedis, firas fayad, Hadi Kaassamani<br />

From various UK caving clubs and cave rescue teams<br />

John <strong>Al</strong>lonby, Jo Campbell, John Christie, Mike Clayton, Pete Gray,<br />

tony Harrison, Chris “Zot” Harvey, Neville Lucus, Mike Peters,<br />

Emma Porter, steve tomalin, Deanne Wilkins and Mike Wilson<br />

Egeszsegedre! The bottles clink and we pass around the<br />

local Bulls Blood and Unicum. It is great to be back again in<br />

Budapest, the “city of caves” with our Hungarian caving friends.<br />

There are eleven of us from different UK caving clubs and Firas<br />

and Hadi from SCL, here to enjoy a short city caving break before<br />

heading to the 11 th International Cave Rescue Conference to be<br />

hosted in Aggtelek, north-eastern Hungary.<br />

Hungary has a rich speleological history, and its scientists<br />

were the pioneers of speleotherapy, still practised in Hungary<br />

today. There are three main caving areas, in the north both the<br />

Bukk and Aggtelek are typical karst areas with stream caves<br />

and in the capital, the Buda Hills which make Budapest unique,<br />

by having the highest density of thermal caves anywhere in the<br />

world.<br />

Egeszsegedre! On trinque les bouteilles et on passe autour <strong>du</strong> local Bulls Blood and Unicum. C’est formidable<br />

de retourner à Budapest, la « ville des grottes », avec nos amis spéléos hongrois. Onze parmi nous viennent de<br />

différents clubs de spéléologie <strong>du</strong> Royaume-Uni, et Firas et Hadi <strong>du</strong> SCL, jouissent ici d’une courte sortie spéléo<br />

en ville avant de se diriger vers la 11ème Conférence Internationale de <strong>Spéléo</strong>-Secours tenue à Aggtelek, au<br />

Nord-Est de la Hongrie.<br />

Fig. 3<br />

Deanne Wilkins in Baradla Barlang, Hungary.<br />

(Photo by Emma Porter)<br />

After arriving into Budapest airport on the morning of<br />

Saturday 12 May 2007, we were greeted by our friend Marci and<br />

swiftly transported to our accommodation for the next three days,<br />

a small caving club hut in the “Beverley Hills” part of Budapest,<br />

nestling between foreign embassies and millionaires’ pads. It<br />

is a very precious piece of land as far as cavers in Hungary are<br />

concerned, the equivalent of an SSSI, hosting stunning views<br />

overlooking the Danube and the city. But what makes this land so<br />

special is that hidden beneath the surface lies a mini Lechuguilla,<br />

called Jozsef-Hegyi Barlang.<br />

Like many caves in Budapest, Jozsef-Hegyi was discovered<br />

by workers excavating the land to develop and build houses. The<br />

small cave entrance was found in 1984 and excavation work had<br />

to cease whilst the cavers were given a set time period upon which<br />

to dig, extend and explore the cave. The cavers were fortunate to<br />

soon break through into some large chambers full of gypsum and<br />

<strong>du</strong>e to the importance of the find the builders were not permitted<br />

to continue with their works. Whilst this important and unique<br />

cave has in the short time been saved, <strong>du</strong>e to the cave being<br />

positioned in such an exclusive part of Budapest, the cavers have<br />

at times had to fight to keep the land from being developed and<br />

hence access is very restricted, even to cavers.<br />

114 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 115


Fig. 4<br />

Formations in Ochtinsha Aragonite Cave, Slovakia.<br />

(Photo by Emma Porter)<br />

After a short rest in the sun from travelling, we were led<br />

into the 5.5km long and 103m deep cave by our good friend Csaba<br />

“Mr Dyson” Koblos, entering a 20ft shaft via a metal ladder, the<br />

alternative route via the cellar of the caving hut was unfortunately<br />

locked. We carefully descended the entrance series via rope climbs<br />

and boulder chokes until several large chambers were reached,<br />

the largest chamber being 70m long by 20m wide. Once through<br />

the entrance series, the cave is an abundance of gypsum crystals<br />

and flowers, aragonite needles reaching 510-cm in length and the<br />

amazing Christmas tree features, formed it is believed, by the result<br />

of calcite flakes precipitating on the former water surface and being<br />

deposited on top of each other. We had a steady paced trip in order<br />

to keep cool and had ample opportunity to admire the underground<br />

delights. It was a real privilege to be able to venture into the<br />

gypsum wonderland but almost a relief reach the surface away from<br />

the fragility and pristine nature of the beautiful cave.<br />

The following day, we ventured to the nearby show cave<br />

of Pal Volgyi discovered in 1904. Here, large quarrying activities<br />

in the Szep Valley revealed a number of underground labyrinths and<br />

now Pal Volgyi is part show cave after being opened to the public in<br />

1927. In 1994, the cave was already the second longest in Hungary<br />

and the longest in Budapest and by the end of 2001, a connection<br />

was created between the 13.3km long Pal Volgyi and the 5.4 km<br />

long Matyas-hegyi Barland that opens in the opposite quarry.<br />

Like the majority of the Budapest caves, access is<br />

restricted and we were fortunate to have a guide pre-arranged.<br />

After originally being split into two parties, we quickly merged into<br />

one large group, as the route finding on the round trip became more<br />

complicated and as one of the Mendip cavers discovered his chest<br />

girth was not quite con<strong>du</strong>cive to some of the squeezes. The route<br />

gave us a good insight into the nature of the cave, with its mazelike<br />

routes and bizarre rock formations that resembled exploring<br />

the holes in a large piece of cheese. Further into the system, in the<br />

western part, it is said to be particularly pretty, although time and<br />

our group size prevented us from going this far.<br />

On our way back to the caving hut, as on previous trips,<br />

we climbed the steps above the show cave of Szemlohegyi Barlang<br />

to a small memorial garden to cavers who have died in the pursuit<br />

of exploration, to pay our respects. It is beautiful setting with a<br />

piece of limestone and plaque for each caver overlooking the city –<br />

a poignant reminder of the risks of our passion.<br />

The last day of our short city caving break was<br />

Fig. 5<br />

Having fun in Budapest, Hungary (left to right Mike Wilson, Firas Fayad, Joanna<br />

Campell, Hadi Kaassamani, Deanne Wilkins, Steve Tomalin, Emma Porter).<br />

(Photo by Mike Clayton)<br />

spent exploring the “Pearl of the Danube” with all its interesting<br />

architecture, lively streets, sprawling over both sides of the river.<br />

Budapest is perhaps most well known for being a spa city with<br />

its alleged medicinal waters and so a drink of the sulphur water at<br />

Lukacs Medicinal Baths was in order (which cured Jo’s knee pain!)<br />

followed by a trip to enjoy the thermal pools in the architecturally<br />

elegant surroundings of the Gellert Spa with its Art Nouveau<br />

furnishings, artistic mosaics and stained glass windows. Our<br />

day in the centre of the city ended in an “eat and drink as much<br />

as you want” for £10, before heading back to the hut to grab our<br />

possessions to meet the coach at Szemlohegyi Barlang. Upon our<br />

arrival at the show cave, we were given a quick tour around the<br />

show cave before Mike Wilson, Zot and Firas headed back to the<br />

UK, and for the rest of us, we had a four hour journey to Aggtelek.<br />

The Aggtelek National Park is dominated by extensive<br />

karst plateaus with an average altitude of 600m, and together with<br />

the neighbouring Slovak Karst, the caves feature on the World<br />

Heritage list. The venue of the 11th International Cave Rescue<br />

Conference was in the heart of the National Park in north-eastern<br />

Hungary, between the two villages of Aggtelek and Josvafo and saw<br />

cavers converging from Mexico, Scandinavia, obviously Lebanon<br />

and across Europe with the largest group, apart from the hosts, being<br />

the Brits.<br />

During the journey, we met up with the other delegates of<br />

the Conference, including two more Lebanese, Avo Avedis and Badr<br />

Jabbour-Gedeon (ALES) and two more from the UK, Pete <strong>Al</strong>lwright<br />

and Roy Holmes. It seemed a long journey to Aggtelek and we<br />

arrived in the early hours of the morning of Tuesday 15 May. We<br />

were soon guided to three cosy wooden cottages by our friend Moha<br />

and crashed out, making sure we were ready for some serious caving<br />

and socialising when the conference started.<br />

Registration at the conference commenced later<br />

that morning and we were shortly planning some underground<br />

excursions. With Pete <strong>Al</strong>lwright, Roy Holmes and Tony Harrison<br />

providing the British representation at the conference lectures, our<br />

Hungarian caving friends had a whole sche<strong>du</strong>le of trips planned<br />

for us <strong>du</strong>ring the week and we were soon heading to Rakoczi<br />

Barlang, to a cave that was discovered through mining. The cave<br />

was accessed via an abandoned tunnel which was constructed in the<br />

1920’s and the miners came across the cave whilst digging new side<br />

passages in their search for iron ore. Unfortunately, not realising<br />

the significance of their discovery, one of the lakes was filled with<br />

thousands of tonnes of spoil. Today, this cave is now protected and<br />

a series of fixed metal ladders leads visitors around some beautiful<br />

formations to a lake. With the cave only being 650m in length, we<br />

managed to put in an appearance at the opening ceremony of the<br />

conference before giving Hadi, who was heading home to Beirut<br />

that evening, a good send off and we joined the rest of the British<br />

contingent for the Gulyas Party, and enjoyed some goulash and<br />

local beverages.<br />

On Wednesday, we headed off to Slovakia, the border<br />

being all of 1 mile away, with Gustav from Meander caving shop<br />

to explore Buzgo Cave, following a series of wire traverses to the<br />

end. In the afternoon, we joined all the conference participants for<br />

the excursion to the cave baths of Miskolctapolca, a popular tourist<br />

attraction. The cave baths were formed by thermal waters and a<br />

building was constructed in the 1930s around the cave and made<br />

suitable for bathing in 1959. There are several artificial extensions<br />

to swim through interspersed with natural cave passage and small<br />

pools, jacuzzis and several large outdoor pools.<br />

The following day, we visited three show caves in<br />

Slovakia and saw the stunning aragonite formations in Ochtinsha<br />

Aragonite Cave. Whilst only 300 m long, this cave was protected<br />

in the World Heritage List in 1995 <strong>du</strong>e to its unique aragonite<br />

needles and phenomenal helictites. We then visited the long straws<br />

of Gombasecka cave in Slovakia before returning to Hungary to<br />

then party in only a way the British can in the famous Baradala<br />

Barlang to the Miskolc Dixie Band. A superb feast was enjoyed by<br />

all, with plenty of singing and the Brits intro<strong>du</strong>cing the other cavers<br />

to the Hokey Cokey!<br />

Of course, we could not be in Aggtelek without<br />

completing a traverse of Baradla Barlang from Aggtelek to Josvafo.<br />

The total length of the system is 26km with a quarter lying in<br />

Slovakia, known as Domica Cave. The traverse is an underground<br />

hike through massive chambers, some extremely well-decorated.<br />

At the picnic tables, we shared some food and drinks before<br />

deviating down the Radish Branch to admire the Mother in Law’s<br />

Tongue.<br />

Whilst some of our group were flying back to the UK,<br />

the final day of the trip saw a smaller Anglo-Hungarian contingent<br />

entering Domica Cave by a lesser known entrance. The trip was<br />

perhaps the highlight of the week, as we followed the beautiful<br />

stream passages, skirted round gour pools and crossed the<br />

underground border post. Our Hungarian friends pointed out<br />

the remnants of the metal gates that had once divided the cave<br />

and the two countries, and advised us that this has been their<br />

“Berlin Wall”.<br />

A very big thanks must go to our Hungarian friends<br />

and hosts of the conference for looking after us so well as usual.<br />

Egeszsegedre!!<br />

BIBLIOGRAPHY<br />

-Craven Pothole <strong>Club</strong> The Record, No 52, July 1998, pp4044-, “Pestera<br />

in Padis, Barlangs in Budapest”, Porter, E<br />

-Craven Pothole <strong>Club</strong> The Record, No 42, April 1996, pp1921-, “A<br />

Winter Expedition to Hungary”, Thompson, T<br />

-Descent magazine, No 198, Oct/Nov 2007, pp3234-<br />

-Slovakia Show Caves 2003 Bella, P DTP studio GRAFON ISBN 80-<br />

7-09-89130<br />

-Ochtinska Aragonite Cave 2001 Pavel, P DTP studio GRAFON ISBN<br />

805-7-968414-<br />

A similar article appeared in Craven Pothole <strong>Club</strong> The Record, No 90, April 2008 and<br />

the Belfy Bulletin Summer 2008 No 530 Vol 56 No 4.<br />

Fig. 6<br />

John Christie admiring formations in Jozsef-Hegyi, Hungary.<br />

(Photo by Emma Porter)<br />

Fig. 7<br />

Chris «Zot» Harvey, Firas Fayad and Hadi Kassamani in Jozsef-Hegyi.<br />

(Photo by Mike Clayton)<br />

BARLANGS IN BUDAPEST<br />

& UNDERAGGTELEK<br />

116 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 117


INTERNATIONAL CAVING Rena Karanouh | renakaranouh@hotmail.com<br />

ةراغم“ ملاعلا يف ةراغم لوطا ىلا فلؤملا ذخات ةقيش ةرماغم<br />

رفاست ادنك ىلا لوصولا دعب .ةيكرملأا ةدحتملا تايلاولا يف ”ثومام<br />

تايلاولا يلامش يف يكاتنك ةيلاو ىلا اهؤاقدصا ةقفرب ةفلؤملا<br />

.اهيفيشتكم ىلعو ةراغملا هذه ىلع فرعتلل ةيكرملأا ةدحتملا<br />

a rEndEZVoUS WItH<br />

MAMMOTH CAVE<br />

2007 THANKSGIVING ExPEDITION<br />

Inside Mammoth cave, Doyle entrance<br />

(Photo by Peter and Anne Bosted, www.cavepics.com)<br />

Encore une autre aventure extraordinaire qui ammène l’auteur à la plus longue grotte<br />

<strong>du</strong> monde, la grotte Mammouth cave aux Etats-Unis. Du voyage en avion, à l’arrivée au<br />

Canada, au voyage de route vers Kentucky, enfin à l’incroyable aventure en grotte dans la<br />

plus longue grotte au monde. Tout cela et plus dans cette merveilleuse aventure.<br />

The river inside a section of Mammoth cave<br />

(Photo by Peter and Anne Bosted, www.cavepics.com)<br />

I was on the plane sitting next to Issam )albeit high on gravol!( waiting for the time I will enter the longest cave in<br />

the world. We were flying to canada, meeting with Martin, and then driving down to Kentucky, USa.<br />

I didn’t know what to expect from a twelve hour drive. Martin and Issam were to do all the driving since I didn’t<br />

have a license that was valid in ‘first’ world countries. as I sat in the car watching the road pass by it was easy to let go and<br />

just allow the mind to wonder. this drives Issam mad as he thinks I get quiet in the car and always fall asleep. But it is much<br />

more than that. Just watching the landscape change…the type of houses…the trees…the colour of the sky…all these little<br />

things make me aware that seeing and taking part in something new is always worthwhile.<br />

Issam wanted to show me a very special billboard he had seen on a previous trip. ‘Used cows for rent’. It was so<br />

funny. I couldn’t believe it. What does it mean? It was true. He had spoken about this billboard in lebanon and I thought he<br />

was making it up.<br />

So after twelve hours of driving we arrived in Kentucky, Hamilton Valley. We were actually staying inside the<br />

national Mammoth State park. We drove through a wooded area seeing a sign that read “Mammoth State park’. Finally we<br />

had arrived. I was excited and apprehensive and my heart was beating fast….I was just excited about gaining as much info<br />

as I can about how they did things…how they thought…how they surveyed….how they caved.<br />

So after about half an hour the car finally stopped. We carried all our stuff to the cabin we chose. We had four<br />

bunk beds…two on top of each other. the bathroom was a few minutes walk away and the lounge area was in the same<br />

area. Issam and Martin were completely at ease having been there many times before. they knew who everyone was and<br />

where everything was and what to do. I just followed them like a lapdog. the best room was the work room where the<br />

survey maps were hung and there were a few computers and the library.<br />

We were some of the first people to arrive. So, we decided to leave for a few hours and go and have dinner<br />

in cave city. Yes it is true. this is the actual name of the city. We went to this place that Martin liked and that sold<br />

fried chicken. We sat down and the waitress approached us…’YalWanSUMIcEWItHat?’…we were like…sorry?<br />

’YalWanSUMIcEWItHat?’ was she actually speaking English? ’YalWanSUMIcEWItHat?’…we were very worried to have<br />

looked like people who spoke no English until she slowly and loudly repeated for the last time ‘Y’all want some ice with<br />

that?’…that being our iced teas…we laughed for hours.<br />

We returned to Mammoth park only to find that other people had arrived. they were all talking…. asking us<br />

where we wanted to go…what we wanted to do in the cave. I just listened. Martin and Issam seemed to have things under<br />

control. all that was going through my head was ‘I am in Mammoth…I am in Mammoth…’ over and over like a song. So<br />

as the evening progressed it seemed that finally they had decided to take us to doyle Entrance to photograph with the<br />

Bosteds. that is anne and peter Bosted. Well known caving photographers. It was going to be fun because I was to use the<br />

flashbulbs. I had seen these in our Scl museum from Sami but I did not know how they are used. now I was going to find<br />

out. the cave entrance is an artificially <strong>du</strong>g wellshaft. Mammoth is so long )over 500km( that some artificial entrances had<br />

to be <strong>du</strong>g in specific locations in order to complete exploration.<br />

the rope rig was a simple affair and we all descended the 20m quickly. there it was…my feet had just touched<br />

inside the longest cave in the world. It was kind of daunting. on the inside Mammoth looks like any other cave…looks the<br />

same…standard passages… but it feels strange. It is just all in the head; that there are 500km of passages; that every<br />

small crawl way has the potential to extend for 20km; that if you really get lost here you can die.<br />

anne and peter wanted to photograph us for their 3d pictures. after quickly showing me how the bulbs work<br />

we began. In 3d photography there has to be something in the foreground, middle and background so the<br />

effect works when the 3d glasses are put on. First Issam had to change his clothes )as they wanted to<br />

photograph cavers wearing very colourful clothes so they would be offset of the black dark walls(. Ha ha<br />

ha…seeing Issam wearing those bright pink and green sweatshirts )that anne had brought( was enough<br />

to make anyone laugh )since Issam’s clothes colour palette is limited to blue/grey/white/navy( it was the<br />

funniest thing in the world. He got some arabic ‘reflections’ on that front and luckily for us the Bosteds<br />

spoke no arabic and could not understand me taking the mickey out of Issam. after about 7 hours inside<br />

the cave, we ended my first trip into Mammoth. the sheer scale of this cave is overwhelming. the tunnel<br />

we were in actually goes on for 25km…yes that is km….it is not a typo…!<br />

our second trip was through roppel cave to an area 4 hours away from the entrance. It was<br />

peter, Issam, Martin and I. We were to survey a tunnel that peter knew from previous trips. all was going<br />

well. roppel’s entrance is a 30m descent on metal ladders. I found this strange until Issam pointed out why<br />

the route was not Srt rigged. He said most of the cavers in the crF do not really do much Srt so it is<br />

easier this way and they do not have to constantly change ropes. I thought it was strange for us not to use<br />

Srt yet if it worked for them…why not? after about an hour’s walk in the cave, we arrived at the infamous<br />

popcorn alley. now all lebanese cavers know of the diamond gallery in Houet Jihad. You know the<br />

annoying one where all the hanging equipment gets caught on the protruding rocks and it is really narrow<br />

and annoying. But it is only about 10m. So back to popcorn alley. What can I say? nearly 2km of a narrower<br />

diamond gallery passage with popcorn concretions pricking our whole bodies and after a while it got<br />

very frustrating but we kept slogging at it. then, finally we arrived at a 7m drop where I saw my very first<br />

crayfish. I was mesmerized…wondering if they can be eaten…they were a perfect cave fauna…all white<br />

and transparent in places…I could not take my eyes off it…the rest were all used to seeing them and were<br />

apathetic to my excitement but to me this lone miniature lobster was truly amazing... We changed our wet<br />

clothes to warm dry ones and proceeded to walk to the entrance of the cave passage we were to survey.<br />

So we began to map. Issam was on meter. Martin and I on compass and peter drawing. I never<br />

did see his drawing, by the way, for some reason. the passage got tighter and tighter….the water got<br />

deeper and deeper and the mud got thicker and thicker. We asked in arabic…come on Martin…when does<br />

it end?...Martin kept saying it continues. and we kept swearing at him )in arabic!(…it was getting uncomfortable now…<br />

but finally after 200m it closed up. We were finished. It was getting quite cold now.….then back through the passages…<br />

aaahhh…popcorn alley again…ouch…ouch….then finally the ladders….when I arrived at the top I could not close my<br />

fingers as the metal was so cold and my hands froze. anyway…that was the trip to roppel. nice, cold and entertaining the<br />

best part being my intro<strong>du</strong>ction to the crayfish I must say. By roppel standards, it was a short trip at 14 hour.<br />

our final trip was to the historic touristic mammoth. We took the 2 hour guided tour. It was nice to see people of<br />

all ages want to hike for two hours inside a strange environment. We learnt a lot. the guide was entertaining and good. She<br />

answered all the questions the people asked. Even strange questions from children. I could not help remembering that I had<br />

read in a book once a woman asking one of these guides ‘how much of the cave is underground’…ha ha ha….We walked<br />

in tight winding passages and large halls. I could not believe it. they made a big issue of a 20m chimney with stairs and a<br />

light show. I do not think I saw a single beautiful concretion <strong>du</strong>ring the whole tour. We have a beautiful cave called Jiita and<br />

we do not know how to make people get excited about going inside it and e<strong>du</strong>cate them on its history and science. the<br />

nice thing about the Mammoth tour was that it was filled with myths, history and discovery. a nice mix for non cavers. I<br />

imagined how this can be translated to Jiita and our touristic caves. So easy and simple and yet so e<strong>du</strong>cational.<br />

and so ended my Mammoth adventure. My first mammoth experience will always be treasured for its contrasts;<br />

on the drive down, the porno sale signs on the left and the religious billboards on the right; the warmth of the touristic<br />

section of Mammoth with the coldness of roppel cave; the massive tunnels with the tight crawls...I met a lot of great<br />

people…the most memorable being the US equivalent of ‘Sami Karkabi’, a very respected gentleman called roger Brucker.<br />

He told me about caving and what he had done and the books he had written and Mammoth history and general life<br />

experiences. like Sami and Jiita, I felt that stories through roger were like living the experience. this is the beauty of<br />

meeting other cavers.<br />

Martin and Issam, what can I say? Caving with you two was like being home. Thank you for being my partners.<br />

118 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 119


CAVE SuRVEy<br />

Hadi Kaassamani | hkaassamani@earthtimegroup.com<br />

Nabil Chehab | chaosn@hotmail.com<br />

Wassim Hamdan | whamdan@earthtimegroup.com<br />

a YEar In<br />

ROUEISS CAVE<br />

photo 1<br />

The ‘Galleries des Marmites’.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

WHY ROUEIss CAVE (or Mgharet Roueiss)?<br />

After successfully re-exploring and re-surveying<br />

some of the longest caves in Lebanon (2002: Shatawie<br />

cave, 2004: Qadisha cave, 2005: Afqa cave) the same<br />

group of SCL surveyors decided that it was time to resurvey<br />

Roueiss cave.<br />

Following the huge and tiring feat to re-survey<br />

Afqa cave (which resulted in Afqa cave becoming the<br />

second longest cave in Lebanon measuring 5260 m of<br />

development) we thought we should give Roueiss cave<br />

the chance of being re-surveyed to see if it could make it<br />

back to second longest after Jiita cave. It was believed that<br />

Roueiss cave would be an ‘easy’ survey since we had the<br />

experience of previous years behind us. We could not have<br />

been more wrong!<br />

tHE LOCAtION<br />

Roueiss Cave is located 2km south of Aqoura<br />

village, at the foot of Jabal El Mnaitra, Mount Lebanon.<br />

Its entrance lies at around 1500m above sea level. It can<br />

be reached from both the Faraya highway and from the<br />

Kartaba road. It is approximately 1.5 hours drive from<br />

Beirut.<br />

Roueiss Cave is a well known cave among Lebanese<br />

caving clubs. It is usually selected by clubs to carry out<br />

their ‘e<strong>du</strong>cational’ outings. To teach newcomers a little<br />

bit of speleology and what it entails to be a caver from the<br />

adventurous, the scientific, as well as protection aspects.<br />

Maybe Roueiss Cave is not as beautiful as Jiita Cave,<br />

but it has a unique feel to it with its varied assortment<br />

of cave features ranging from wide and tight passages,<br />

marvelous speleogens, underground rivers, mazes,<br />

balconies, upper passages, lower passages…etc (Photo 1).<br />

2005 ماع سيورلا ةراغمل حسملا ةداعا تايلمع ةلاقملا هذه يورت<br />

ةراغملا عقـت .رواغملا يف بيقنتلل ينانبللا يدانلا ءاضعا لبق نم<br />

ةراغملا لوط غلب .ةرطينملا لبج لفسأ يف ةروقاعلا ةقطنم يف<br />

نانبل رواغم لوطأ يناث حبصتل ارتم 5460m ديدجلا حسملا ةجيتن<br />

.اتيعج ةراغم دعب<br />

photo 2<br />

The gate entrance of Roueiss cave.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

HOW It CAME tO BE?<br />

The team that surveyed Afqa cave had thoughts<br />

(albeit deep down) about Roueiss cave and what it would<br />

take to survey it. “If Afqa cave was such an amazing<br />

cave (that never seemed to end and was full of places to<br />

discover), what would Roueiss cave be like?”<br />

But no-one said anything….until…“We’ll have to<br />

check Roueiss cave if this is what Afqa cave looks like.”<br />

No-one will forget when that statement by Rena K. was<br />

uttered, as we surveyed Afqa cave. It was there, finally<br />

said, finally out there. We can’t really remember what it<br />

was that day that made Rena K. say such a statement, but<br />

everyone had had it floating in the back of their minds,<br />

but had not dared to say anything, knowing that the survey<br />

of Roueiss cave would be even worse than Afqa cave in<br />

complexity.<br />

Actually, we did not know what we were really<br />

getting ourselves into, but we all knew that it would be<br />

worth a try!<br />

fLAsHBACK!<br />

Most of Roueiss cave was believed to have been<br />

surveyed by the older generations of SCL cavers.<br />

In November 1954, Sami Karkabi and Raymond<br />

Khawam made the first survey attempt for Roueiss Cave.<br />

During a three day expedition, they generated a sketch<br />

map. It was not until August 1974, when another SCL<br />

attempt was made to re-survey the cave and re-draw the<br />

map. The attempt at that time was led by Claude Chabert<br />

with Emile Saleh, <strong>Al</strong>ain Maroun, Hani Abdel Nour, Nadim<br />

Bahou and Sami Karkabi. They succeeded in surveying<br />

the cave and the map generated was published in the<br />

Ouat’ Ouate 2 (new series) and is still used by Lebanese<br />

cavers today. The expedition was followed by an outing in<br />

January 1975 to verify the survey. In August 2001, a newly<br />

explored section of about 250m was surveyed by SCL<br />

members and added to the old 1974 map. The war began in<br />

1974 and nothing was done until 2006.<br />

Après avoir réexploré et refait la topographie avec succès certaines des plus longues<br />

grottes <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> (2002: la grotte Chatawie, 2004 : la grotte de Qadicha, 2005 : la grotte de<br />

Afqa), le même groupe de topographes <strong>du</strong> SCL ont décidé de revoir la grotte de Roueiss.<br />

Un bref exposé de l’année investie dans la topographie de cette incroyable grotte au<br />

<strong>Liban</strong>.<br />

tHE CAVE AND tHE WORKING sCHEME<br />

Exactly a week after we finished the resurveying of<br />

Afqa cave, the work in Roueiss cave began.<br />

Roueiss Cave has two entrances, making it one of the<br />

few caves in Lebanon with the prospect of entering from<br />

one entrance and exiting from another. The main entrance<br />

(that is mainly used for the e<strong>du</strong>cational outings), has an<br />

iron cage (Photo 2) with a locked door and permission<br />

to enter from it is always needed from the landlord who<br />

keeps the keys. As for the second entrance, it is open and<br />

accessible to anyone; yet the access path to this entrance<br />

is a little bit more difficult when compared to the first<br />

entrance (Photo 3).<br />

The cave consists of three main levels with<br />

interconnected passages and rooms. Surveying them<br />

required a lot of effort and patience; however, these<br />

activities were blended with pleasant feelings and funny<br />

and memorable incidents that can never leave the minds<br />

and hearts of those who took part in this project.<br />

Rena K. took the lead in mapping and the following<br />

was written by Maia S. after an excursion that took place<br />

in Feb 19, 2006.<br />

“Topo wise, we all depend on Rena’s skills in<br />

drawing and noting practically everything she sees. We get<br />

her the info and get back to her with the attitude of: that’s<br />

the way it is, figure it out and draw it!! So let’s give her<br />

the credit she deserves… As for Hadi, he seems to have<br />

an amazingly good sense of orientation; he always knows<br />

where we are, where this passage could lead us and how<br />

it is connected to the previous one, unlike others… That<br />

must be part of his full loaded memory skills.”<br />

The work which maily consisted of mapping took<br />

place in three main phases. The first phase started with<br />

the surveying of the main entrance to the lower levels of<br />

the cave, reaching the second entrance, and mapping the<br />

outer area to connect the two entrances. The second phase<br />

started from the second entrance mapping all of what was<br />

left un-surveyed in the ground level. The last phase was to<br />

map the upper level.<br />

tHE 1st PHAsE<br />

From one entrance to another<br />

The aim <strong>du</strong>ring this phase was to finish surveying<br />

the main tunnels connecting the ground level to the lower<br />

passages before water floods some of the main channels as<br />

we were working in winter (Photos 4 and 5).<br />

120 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 121<br />

A YEAR IN<br />

ROUEISS CAVE


photo 3<br />

The entrance to the lower labyrinth.<br />

(Photo by Mike Clayton)<br />

During this period, many rooms and passages were<br />

surveyed, some already had names (check the survey at the<br />

back), while others were discovered and named <strong>du</strong>ring the<br />

mapping process.<br />

Here is a list of the main ones and some stories on how<br />

they were named:<br />

the Pyramid Room (salle des Paysans):<br />

Located in the ground level of the cave, this room<br />

got its name from small rounded rocks forming a large<br />

pyramid shape in its middle.<br />

the sarcophagus (Photo 6):<br />

Just east from the Pyramid room, there is a big<br />

rectangular rock that seems to have fallen from the passage<br />

ceiling. It was funny that no-one noticed this distinctive<br />

rock until Rena K. gave it its name “The Sarcophagus” and<br />

lay on top of it to hammer the message home.<br />

the ‘Laouze’ (almond tree in English) (Photo 7):<br />

Located between the Pyramid Room and Salle<br />

Dayaa’. It became so famous <strong>du</strong>e to many reasons but most<br />

importantly it made everyone enthusiastic on how it could<br />

have grown without sunlight in the middle of the cave and<br />

not even close to the entrance. Even more, some of the<br />

cavers were connected to it and they would travel from<br />

the entrance just to check if the “Laouze” was still alive.<br />

Others even took it as a point of reference whenever they<br />

got lost with their sense of direction, no wonder! If Motel<br />

<strong>Al</strong>-Rabih is one!<br />

salle ‘Dayaa’:<br />

It got the name after Rena K once got lost when we<br />

saw that room from an upper level and couldn’t recognize<br />

where it is located though it is considered one of the main<br />

connecting points in the cave. Its location can hardly be<br />

mistaken with other passages.<br />

photo 4<br />

The passage leading from the Pyramid room when flooded.<br />

(Photo by Hadi Kaasamani)<br />

faux Plafond Passage:<br />

This large tunnel got its name from the older<br />

generation of cavers after ceiling collapses showing<br />

different rock layers.<br />

During snow melt, this passage becomes a gushing<br />

river making it inaccessible. One of the small side<br />

passages off Faux Plafond passage is rich with beautiful<br />

colourful speleothems and features such as the brown<br />

wavy cloud-like calcite inside small pools or the amazing<br />

brown and white stripped spherical stalactites and soda<br />

straws.<br />

salle sushi:<br />

Located at the end of the Faux Plafond Passage, it<br />

was named while the team on that day was having a break<br />

and spoke only about Sushi as it is obvious that all seemed<br />

to have been very hungry.<br />

Gallery Marmite (Photo 1):<br />

Located few meters from Salle Sushi. As named on<br />

the 1974 map. It is one of the most well known passages<br />

in Roueiss Cave and is so named after the many small<br />

rounded water potholes that dot its length.<br />

the Big Room:<br />

Located at the end of Gallery Marmite; it is simply<br />

named <strong>du</strong>e to its huge size. It is a room that connects<br />

several different passages including the biggest tunnel<br />

in Roueiss cave. Through this big tunnel is the entrance<br />

to “Bokhsh Raja” which we were told was named after<br />

Raja fell couple of meters somewhere inside this passage<br />

(Urban legend?).<br />

One particular trip worth mentioning is titled Rami &<br />

The Darkness by Hadi K., February 5th, 2006:<br />

“And another sound of a hammer hitting<br />

the rock like as if there is a quarry<br />

working inside the cave, which was Rami<br />

trying to scare the bats from approaching<br />

his area if they decided to or if there is<br />

one anyways!”<br />

photo 5<br />

The same passage leading from the Pyramid room.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

photo 6<br />

The Sargophagos.<br />

(Photo by Hadi Kaasamani)<br />

photo 7<br />

The ‘Laouze’.<br />

(Photo by Hadi Kaasamani)<br />

They reached and Maia opened her tiny<br />

anti-water proof notebook which contains<br />

mainly all swears of the underground world.<br />

Then she showed Rena four pages of maps as<br />

if Rena will know where Maia is located and<br />

the direction. So Rena informed her that<br />

next time she needs to stay close and inform<br />

us with each move unless it is a big section<br />

that needs mapping.”<br />

Rami was asking if we will go up so that<br />

he won’t need to go down that s****y rock.<br />

So we told him to stay up for a while until<br />

we decided otherwise. At that time you can<br />

feel how much he was relaxed. He tried to<br />

enter a bit in the tunnel for like 3 minutes<br />

but then came out like in three seconds! As<br />

if he saw a rock looking at him!”<br />

At the end of this period, it was really<br />

a superb feeling to know how to enter from<br />

one gate and exit from the other without<br />

getting LOST!<br />

tHE 2nd PHAsE<br />

the annoying mazes<br />

The aim was to complete surveying all the side<br />

openings that were left from the first phase. Mainly all<br />

the work took place in the ground and lower levels of the<br />

cave (Photo 9-13). This period was the toughest among<br />

the three as it took the longest time to finish. It consisted,<br />

most of the time, of crawling in long tight interconnected<br />

labyrinths and passages.<br />

Quoting Maya in one of her reports:<br />

“Every time we get into a couloir we pray<br />

for it to be closed few meters ahead of us,<br />

but it often keeps going longer and gets<br />

increasingly tighter...”<br />

This time the work started from the second entrance.<br />

The plan was to finish the section area by area. The main<br />

rooms and passages that were surveyed <strong>du</strong>ring this phase<br />

are the following:<br />

salle tewzee or the Distribution Room<br />

A room located in the middle of some intersected and<br />

interconnected tunnels connecting the second entrance<br />

all the way to reach the Big Room. Salle Tawzee became<br />

one of the most important places <strong>du</strong>ring the second phase<br />

as many surveys were initiated from this room. From this<br />

room one can see most of the tunnels in this section.<br />

Maya’s tunnel:<br />

Named after Maya S. entered one of the low, tight<br />

tunnels and said it is too tight and nothing continues. Then<br />

Shadi C. entered to find that what had appeared to Maya<br />

as small and tight, was big… in fact... huge. This tunnel is<br />

one of the widest passages that exists in Roueiss cave and<br />

thus has been named Maya’s tunnel. Following this tunnel<br />

we arrive at the Big Room.<br />

Croatia Passage:<br />

This wet passage is named after its’ mapping was<br />

carried out with Croatian cavers that where visiting <strong>du</strong>ring<br />

the MESS2 Congress that the SCL had organized in<br />

2006. The aim of mapping together was to exchange our<br />

knowledge in surveying. It was achieved through mixing<br />

teams. It was exciting to see how they surveyed as an<br />

actual accurate map was drawn inside the cave.<br />

the Hamburger:<br />

Named by Nour F., this passage lies parallel to Salle<br />

Sushi where there is a three meter climb up and then head<br />

first down into a tunnel to reach a large area which is<br />

known as the Hamburger. One will feel like they are the<br />

‘meat’ in a hamburger, sandwiched by two rock beddings.<br />

The ceiling is so low that many a caver have been stuck in<br />

this area as their bellies had not allowed them to continue<br />

(no name mentioned but you know who you are!).<br />

122 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 123<br />

A YEAR IN<br />

ROUEISS CAVE<br />

photo 8<br />

A passage in Faux Plafond.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)


tHE 3rd PHAsE<br />

the Upper level<br />

A couple of meters from the main entrance and going<br />

up north with an increasing slope is where we worked<br />

the last phase of the surveying of Roueiss Cave. This<br />

period was the fastest as it didn’t contain a lot of the tight<br />

passages or complexity.<br />

Some of the main galleries in this section:<br />

the Dream theater:<br />

Named by Samer H. and Loucy L., it is simply the<br />

largest room in Roueiss cave with a very high ceiling. The<br />

room just looks like a theater and thus it was named. In<br />

this room there is a 100m chimney that was climbed in<br />

2000 and 2001 by our club members.<br />

the Big Lake:<br />

Located to the left of the Dream Theater, it is a<br />

beautiful lake with crystal clear blue water. Many a caver<br />

had fallen in after attempting the wall-walk to bypass it.<br />

That is all that Roueiss had to unveil to us. Three<br />

levels of long complex passages and a year of surveying<br />

outings with a lot of stories, adventures, friendships and<br />

laughter.<br />

MEMORIES<br />

Before ending here are quotes from some outing<br />

reports written:<br />

photo 9<br />

A rockfall inside the ground level.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

MARcH 19, 2006 NABIL S. WROTE<br />

“Starting from a previously surveyed<br />

point to a journey that will blow the head<br />

off, yes its one of Roueiss’s labyrinth, its<br />

all right… left… parallel… none parallel…<br />

tight... muddy… and all other directions<br />

that you can think of.”<br />

The labyrinth seems to reach no end, the<br />

more we cover the more it grows, couple of<br />

hours of working we reached the centre of<br />

labyrinth where Rena started to ask about<br />

the link to (Bokhosh Raja) point, she wanted<br />

to see it in order to draw. So we had to<br />

link the centre to (B.R.) survey point.<br />

At the beginning it was confusing when<br />

each one of us start to give his analysis<br />

(NAZARIYAT) where no visual or physical<br />

proof exist, and Rena needed all that to<br />

understand how to draw, and she was hoping<br />

to draw the link on the same page of the<br />

drawing, so she started to shout ‘FIND ME<br />

BOKHOSH RAJA.’ Frustrating isn’t it Rena!<br />

3:30 pm – changing location of work<br />

At that point no break was taken, we were<br />

working fast, no time to waste we wanted to<br />

cover a large section, (plus “Wassim will<br />

sleep if he stops moving” you can ask him<br />

why later).”<br />

MAY 6, 2006 RENA K. WROTE<br />

“We continued surveying the cave where<br />

Neven and Igor stopped. It is getting worse!<br />

Nothing ever closes, why should it?”...<br />

photo 10<br />

A passage inside Faux Plafond passage.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

JuNE 25, 2006 MAIA S. WROTE<br />

“Joe Z. was the first to go out; he<br />

went outside while we were still bringing<br />

the bags we left aside. I was following and<br />

I saw that the main gate was closed, so I<br />

guessed we had to climb in the old monkey<br />

style to get out as we usually did when we<br />

had no key for the gate. And so I did… Then<br />

I see a huge laugh on everyone’s faces and<br />

then Nabil simply opens the gate beneath me<br />

and gets out!!! I didn’t have the reflex<br />

to check if it was open, I trusted Joe’s<br />

words, but now I can see from where the old<br />

sense of humor (manyakeh) comes from in the<br />

club!!!”<br />

In the end it was not an easy task but we did it and<br />

Roueiss cave is currently 5460 meters in development<br />

and the second longest in horizontal cave development in<br />

Lebanon.<br />

We would like to thank all the cavers (national and<br />

international) who helped in surveying Roueiss cave.<br />

They made working in such an environment fun. Special<br />

thanks goes to Rena K. for drawing nearly all of the cave<br />

and being patient, Maia S. for all the detailed reports she<br />

wrote, Chadi for being there most of the times even with<br />

his injured fingers, Loucy and Samer for forming the<br />

alternate team, Issam BJ for his overseas support, Emma<br />

and Mike for all the help and pictures, the Hungarian<br />

team, for their great spirit, and bandaging Shaggys’ fingers<br />

and the Croatian team for exchanging their knowledge in<br />

surveying with us.<br />

photo 12<br />

A passage near the ground level gate entrance.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

photo 11<br />

Surveying in the lower labyrinth.<br />

(Photo by Hadi Kaasamani)<br />

photo 13<br />

The water in the Lost lake.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

124 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 125<br />

A YEAR IN<br />

ROUEISS CAVE


The Big Room in Roueiss cave.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jouade)<br />

A Roueiss cave outing report written by first time caver Bassem Reslan from the Speleo <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> archives.<br />

نلاسر مساب ملقب سيورلا ةراغلم ىلولاا ةرايزلا نع ريرقت<br />

126 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 127


SPELEOGENESIS<br />

Rena Karanouh | renakaranouh@hotmail.com<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude | iboujaoude@gmail.com<br />

ROUEISS CAVE:<br />

potEntIal<br />

SIMIlarItIES<br />

WItH aFQa caVE<br />

Two major springs which are 6 km apart (as the crow<br />

flies), Afqa and Roueiss, are the primary sources of Nahr<br />

Ibrahim River. These two springs issue from the same<br />

named caves respectively. Those caves have developed<br />

in the Upper <strong>Al</strong>bian aged rocks (Hammana Formation),<br />

and both of their springs are fed primarily from the<br />

Cenomanian aquifer (Sannine Formation). In addition<br />

to that they both have similar cave passage shapes, they<br />

are of similar size, and they both have similar structural<br />

control on their cave development. However, Roueiss<br />

cave has developed on the northern block of a major fault<br />

while the Afqa is on the southern block of a similar fault.<br />

The similarities and differences between these two<br />

cave systems based on their geology, speleogenesis,<br />

geomorphology and hydrogeology is interesting as it<br />

gives insight on how those caves have developed and<br />

provides a possible explanation on how similar caves<br />

have developed in Lebanon. This paper will intro<strong>du</strong>ce the<br />

issues surrounding the development of Roueiss cave and<br />

try to compare those elements with its counter-part Afqa<br />

cave.<br />

Intro<strong>du</strong>ction<br />

Roueiss cave is the second longest horizontal cave<br />

in Lebanon, measuring 5460m in cave development. It is<br />

located in central Mount Lebanon between the villages<br />

of Kartaba and Aaqoura. The Lambert coordinates<br />

for the entrance of Roueiss cave are x=167,000m<br />

Fig. 1<br />

The entrance of Roueiss cave in April 2009.<br />

(photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

and y=240,940m, with an elevation of 1300m (asl). It<br />

lies approximately 6km (as the crow flies) from the third<br />

longest horizontal cave in Lebanon, Afqa cave which has a<br />

development of 5260m (Table 1).<br />

A perennial spring, Roueiss spring, issues from the cave<br />

but does not issue from the cave’s two entrances directly (Fig.<br />

1); it flows from the lower levels of the cave through collapse<br />

boulders. During winter, the water floods the cave and issues<br />

from a higher location close to the lower entrance of the cave.<br />

The average rate of the spring according to Edgell (1997) is<br />

0.5m 3 /s - 1m 3 /s. A spring with similar characteristics issues<br />

from Afqa cave, however, contrary to Roueiss spring it issues<br />

from the mouth of the cave and <strong>du</strong>ring flooding condition<br />

water emerges from the lower levels. The location of the<br />

springs <strong>du</strong>ring flooding and dry season and the difference in<br />

development of levels in the two caves might indicate that<br />

Rouiess cave could be more developed than the Afqa cave.<br />

Roueiss cave, similar to its counterpart, is made up of<br />

three separate levels. But in Roueiss cave the three levels<br />

are fully developed while in Afqa cave only one level is<br />

(Table 1). The Ground level, which is effectively rectangular<br />

in shape, consists of fissure passages, keyhole passages,<br />

mazes, and large rooms. The Lower level is a set of gridlike<br />

labyrinths set in a rough rectangular pattern. The Upper<br />

level is a long, large L-shaped tunnel which includes the<br />

Dream Theatre the largest chamber in the cave measuring<br />

approximately 50m by 50m.<br />

اقفأ رواغم مف نم ناقفدتيو ميهاربأ رهن نايزغي سيورلاو اقفأ عيباني نا<br />

يحاونلا نم نيتراغملا نيتاه نيوكت صئاصخ قراوفو هباشت نا .سيورلاو<br />

ةيسينيجوليبسلاو ةيجولوفرومويجلاو ةيجولويجوردهلاو ةيجولويجلا<br />

تاحاضيأ انيطعتو نيتراغملا نيتاه نيوكت ةيفيك نع تامولعمب انوديوزت<br />

.نانبل يف نيتراغملا نيتاهل ةهيبشلا رواغملا ضعب نيوكت ةيفيك نع<br />

table 1<br />

Similarities and differences between Afqa cave and Roueiss cave<br />

Hydro-stratigraphy<br />

The area around Roueiss cave contains rocks that span<br />

nearly the entire sequence of the Cretaceous period from<br />

the Chouf Sandstone formation until the Sannine Formation<br />

(Fig. 2). There are also some Quaternary deposits in the<br />

region as well as a large alluvial fan located approximately<br />

500m NW of the cave.<br />

Similar to Afqa cave, Roueiss cave lies in the upper<br />

Hammana Formation (<strong>Al</strong>bian epoch) in a sequence of<br />

interbeds of limestone and marl beds of varied thicknesses.<br />

Overlying the Hammana Formation are rocks of the<br />

Sannine Formation. Nearly 400 vertical meters of Sannine<br />

formation limestone lie above the Roueiss cave. This can<br />

be considered the source rock of Roueiss spring while the<br />

Upper Hammana can be considered the discharge rocks<br />

whose lower volcanic beds act as a barrier to water flow.<br />

The percentage of infiltration of precipitation into<br />

the Sannine Formation is approximately 60%, average<br />

rainfall in the area is around 1200mm/year (Atlas<br />

Climatique, 1977) and an average discharge from the cave<br />

is 0.75m 3 /s (Edgell, 1997). Taking these measurements into<br />

consideration a rough estimate of the catchment area was<br />

calculated and found to be 33km 2 . Afqa cave’s catchment<br />

area is 66 km 2 based on a spring average discharge of<br />

1.5m 3 /s (Edgell, 1997). Considering this we can de<strong>du</strong>ce that<br />

in the 1970’s the discharge out of Afqa cave is double that<br />

of Roueiss cave.<br />

La rivière <strong>du</strong> Nahr Ibrahim est principalement alimentée par les sources de Afqa et Roueiss,<br />

jaillissant des grottes portant le même nom. L’étude de la géologie, la spéléogenèse, la<br />

géomorphologie et l’hydrogéologie de ces réseaux souterrains révèle des similarités et<br />

différences intéressantes à noter pour la compréhension de leur développement et fournit<br />

des explications probables sur le développement de grottes similaires au <strong>Liban</strong>.<br />

)on the lowered block( )on the lowered block(<br />

structural Geology<br />

Much like Afqa cave the area around Mgharet Roueiss<br />

cave is highly faulted and has undergone a great deal of<br />

deformation.<br />

Faults<br />

The major fault in the Roueiss cave area is an E-W<br />

trending dextral strike-slip fault (with a normal dip-slip<br />

component), passing approximately 250m south of the<br />

cave. The orientation and inclination of this fault is 260/70º<br />

with a vertical displacement of about 70m and a horizontal<br />

displacement of nearly 330m. Lineations on this fault were<br />

measured and found to have a pitch of 12° E. The major fault<br />

in the Afqa cave area has a similar structural imprint but it<br />

passes north of the cave. Both caves have developed on the<br />

lowered faulted block. For Rouiess cave it is the northern<br />

block and for Afqa cave it is the southern block (Fig. 2).<br />

Secondary synthetic strike-slip faults trending NE-SW<br />

were identified. <strong>Al</strong>so secondary normal faults trending NW-<br />

SE and NE-SW are present. The vertical displacement of<br />

these faults range from 2m to 20m.<br />

There are six major faults (Fig. 3) observed inside<br />

Roueiss cave. Three were located in the Upper Level passage<br />

with orientations trending NE (with slickenlines pitching<br />

15º East). One fault passes through the Big Room and has a<br />

trend of NW. Another lies in the Large Tunnel of the Lower<br />

level trending also NE.<br />

128 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 129


Fig. 2<br />

Geological map of the Afqa-Aaqoura area showing both Roueiss cave and Afqa cave.<br />

Bedding<br />

The area around Roueiss cave can be split into two<br />

regions. The first is the block south of the E-W fault with a<br />

general bedding inclination ranging from 15° to 20° NNE.<br />

The second region lies north of the NNE-WSW fault. The<br />

bedding in this area ranges from 15° to 35° NNW.<br />

Beds in the Afqa cave area are also different between<br />

the northern and southern blocks for the northern block 5°<br />

SE and in the southern block 10° to 20° NNW.<br />

Joints and Fractures<br />

Five locations were chosen for fracture analyses. A<br />

total of 63 discontinuities were measured inside and outside<br />

of the cave. Rose diagrams were constructed for each<br />

location (Fig. 3). The general orientations of these sets were<br />

found to be WNW-ESE and SW-NE.<br />

• In Salle Tawsee (in the Lower level), 8 discontinuities<br />

were measured. The dominant orientations were WNW-ESE<br />

and to a lesser degree NE-SW.<br />

• In the Faux Plafond Gallery, 9 discontinuities were<br />

measured. The dominant orientations were NW-SE and to a<br />

lesser degree WSW-ENE.<br />

Fig. 3<br />

Survey of Roueiss cave showing major and minor faults observed inside the<br />

cave with rose diagrams of fracture measurments.<br />

• In the Pyramid Room, 11 discontinuities were measured.<br />

The dominant orientations were NW-SE and WSW-ENE.<br />

• In the area near the Entrance One, 11 discontinuities were<br />

measured. The dominant orientations were NW-SE, and to a<br />

lesser degree E-W and NE-SW.<br />

• In the area outside, west of the cave (next to the bridge),<br />

24 discontinuities were measured. Three different directions<br />

for the discontinuities were measured, two for joints, ENE-<br />

WSW and NNW- SSE, and one for veins, NW-SE.<br />

These joints can be considered as secondary conjugate<br />

sets for the major strike-slip fault.<br />

It is clear from the rose diagrams that the fracturing<br />

correlates well with the directions of the faults observed inside<br />

the cave as well as the general orientation of the tunnels.<br />

Similarly the major passages in Afqa cave are developed along<br />

the major fracture directions which are NNW-SSE.<br />

Passage Morphology<br />

Fissure, tubular, keyhole passages, lenticular tubes, shafts<br />

and large collapse rooms were identified inside Roueiss cave<br />

130 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 131


Fig. 4<br />

Roueiss cave passage morphology with comparison to the Afqa cave counter parts.<br />

(Fig. 4). In high water flow <strong>du</strong>ring winter the lower levels<br />

become inaccessible <strong>du</strong>e to flooding. This all supports<br />

the notion that the cave is still very active in its lower<br />

passages, and the upper level has become a fossil gallery.<br />

Ten different passage shapes were observed inside<br />

Roueiss cave. <strong>Al</strong>though the sizes of each passage differed,<br />

the actual shapes of the openings were similar (and were<br />

consequently placed into one category). The different<br />

sizes of the passages have a direct relationship with the<br />

level they are located on. The Upper level contains some<br />

of the largest passages while the Lower level contains<br />

some of the tightest. The Ground level has varied sized<br />

passages. This might be <strong>du</strong>e to the lithological nature in<br />

which each passage has developed. The larger upper rooms<br />

are developed in thick massive limestone of the Sannine<br />

Formation. While the smaller tighter formation of lower<br />

level passages are developed in the upper Hammana thin<br />

limestone beds. Afqa cave has nine different shapes of<br />

cave passages which are similarly controlled by lithology<br />

and structural geology.<br />

Large rooms in Roueiss cave appear to be formed<br />

at the intersections of faults with collapse being the main<br />

process enlarging the volume along with solution action.<br />

For these rooms to have become as big as they are means<br />

that a substantial stream used to run through these rooms<br />

to remove debris and to enlarge them. This appears to<br />

ascertain that water level has dropped over time, from<br />

water eroding and forming the Upper level, to the current<br />

water flow at the Lower level since the big tunnels are<br />

located in the Upper levels and hence the oldest and<br />

largest.<br />

Small scale speleogens solution features were found<br />

in most passages. Scallops, flutes, rills, spongework,<br />

solution pockets and potholes were seen in various sizes<br />

throughout most of the Roueiss cave.<br />

The cave is not overtly well endowed with<br />

speleothems. It has its fair share of the traditional<br />

concretions including stalagmites, columns, stalactites,<br />

flowstone, rimstone dams and there is nothing<br />

extraordinary about these calcification features. This might<br />

be <strong>du</strong>e to the large volume of fast moving water that has<br />

flowed through this cave. Afqa cave also has a lack of<br />

Fig.5<br />

A schematic cross-section showing the geology in Roueiss cave and Afqa cave area.<br />

speleothems inside it. Much like Roueiss cave it has the<br />

standard common speleothems of stalactites, stalagmites<br />

and flowstone with no large-scale special deposits.<br />

Discussion<br />

The second and third longest caves in Lebanon are<br />

6km apart. Both feed the waters of Nahr Ibrahim and<br />

both have imprints of the local tectonic activities on their<br />

formation and development.<br />

Similar to Afqa cave, Roueiss cave is a structurally<br />

controlled cave. They were developed on the lowered<br />

blocks (Fig. 5) of an EW strike-slip fault with normal dipslip<br />

componant. The caves follow two general fracture<br />

sets in the area which in turn follow the orientations of<br />

secondary faults in the region. Essentially Roueiss cave<br />

is a fissure network cave with the underlying layer of<br />

impermeable rock (Hammana Volcanics Formation) acting<br />

as the lower boundary of the cave much like Afqa cave.<br />

Both caves are also formed on the structurally lowered<br />

block as a result of water damming (Karanouh & Bou<br />

Jaoude, 2007). There is also a clear alignment of cave<br />

passages with local discontinuities in both caves and this<br />

can be observed in the cave, on the rose diagrams and on<br />

the geological map. There is also an alignment between the<br />

faults in the cave and the secondary ones observed outside.<br />

Considering Afqa cave and Roueiss cave as having<br />

been formed essentially by the same processes (water<br />

banking on faults with water flow along bedding planes)<br />

we can also suppose, with the three levels in Roueiss cave<br />

being well developed while only one well developed level<br />

in Afqa cave, that Roueiss cave has been developing longer<br />

than Afqa cave. The systematic regional lowering of the<br />

ROUEISS CAVE: POTENTIAL<br />

SIMILARITIES WITH AFQA CAVE<br />

water-table over time has formed the different levels, with<br />

the passage sizes affected by the different flow rates of the<br />

underground water as well as lithology it passes through.<br />

An interesting observation is that in Afqa cave the<br />

perennial spring flows above the flooding springs and in<br />

Roueiss cave the perennial spring flows below the flooding<br />

springs. This indicates that Roueiss cave is possibly more<br />

developed than Afqa cave.<br />

The Upper passages in Roueiss cave are now fossil<br />

galleries. The Ground level is effectively a potential fossil<br />

gallery although <strong>du</strong>ring flooding water still does pass<br />

through it and the range of small and large passages is a<br />

testimony to this interplay of water flow, lithology and<br />

structure. The Lower level is the youngest level and it is<br />

still enlarging its current small passages, but the extent of<br />

enlargement is restricted by the bedding thickness.<br />

The comparison made, showing a noticeable<br />

correlation between these two caves, allows further<br />

understanding of the development of the Lebanese caves.<br />

<strong>Al</strong>though the Afqa and Roueiss caves are in different<br />

stages of development they draw a picture, albeit a vague<br />

one, on the events that led to their development.<br />

References<br />

-Atlas Climatique <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong>, 1977. ministere des travaux<br />

publics et des transports, République Lebanaise.<br />

-Edgell, H.S. 1997, Karst and Hydrology of Lebanon.<br />

carbonates and evaporates, 12, 2, 220-235.<br />

- Karanouh R., Bou Jaoude, I., 2008. Geological Imprints<br />

on the Speleogenesis of Mgharet Afqa, ِal-ouat’oaute, 14,<br />

42-47.<br />

132 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 133


tHE LONGEst CAVEs Of LEBANON<br />

(as of 2008, Speleo <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> archives)<br />

1 Jiîta cave 10050 m<br />

2 Roueiss cave 5460 m<br />

3 Afqa cave 5260 m<br />

4 <strong>Al</strong>-Kassarat cave 4648 m<br />

5 Ain al-Libné cave 4560 m<br />

6 Nabaa al-shatawie 4130 m<br />

7 faouar Dara sinkhole 3500 m<br />

8 Qattîne Azar sinkhole 3100 m<br />

9 Dahr al-Ain cave 1500 m<br />

10 Nabaa al-Moutrane cave 1200 m<br />

tHE DEEPEst CAVEs Of LEBANON<br />

(as of 2008, Speleo <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong> <strong>Liban</strong> archives)<br />

1 faouar Dara sinkhole<br />

2 Qattîne Azar sinkhole<br />

3 Ballouh Baatara sinkhole<br />

4 Jouret al-Abed sinkhole<br />

5 <strong>Al</strong>-Badaouiyé sinkhole<br />

6 Ain al-Libné sinkhole<br />

- 622 m<br />

- 515 m<br />

- 255 m<br />

- 225 m<br />

- 205 m<br />

- 195 m<br />

7 Othman Remaïhy sinkhole - 163 m<br />

8 Aaqroub sinkhole - 155 m<br />

9 Ballouh Balaa sinkhole - 152 m<br />

10 tarchich sinkhole - 147 m<br />

The river passage in Jiita Cave (Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

A passage in Fouar Dara sinkhole at -620m (Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

new DISCOVERIES<br />

Mtal al Azrak<br />

Mgharet el Sowan<br />

Houet Mrah El Hbas<br />

Houet Tawko<br />

Houet Ras el Astar<br />

Houet El Doueik<br />

Mgharet el Nissian<br />

Houet el Dakhneh<br />

Antelias cave<br />

Jouret el Ballout sinkhole<br />

located on the outskirts of tripoli this cave was discovered in 2003<br />

by a group of Scl cavers lead by Issam B. It proved to be an interesting<br />

cave for it is developed in the Miocene conglomerates and it had a large<br />

bat community. It was then mapped later that year by a group of Scl<br />

cavers lead by Joanna d.<br />

the bat roosts which are mainly fruit bats are being monitored<br />

on yearly bases. this might provide clue on how to protect this fragile<br />

environment.<br />

this cave is under threat from a sewage line that is passing over<br />

it and leaking into the cave and contaminating it and destroying it<br />

habitats.<br />

The fruit bat colony inside Mtal al Azrak cave.<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

134 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 135<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x = 159,816m y=274,582m z=20 m asl<br />

2003<br />

150m, horizontal<br />

Miocene<br />

Joanna Doummar<br />

Georgina Catacroa<br />

Elias Kasouf<br />

Joanna Doummar<br />

Johnny Tawk and Bashir Khoury<br />

Location of Mgharet Mtal <strong>Al</strong> Azrak<br />

MGHARET MTAL AL AzRAK


MGHARET EL SOwAN HOUET MRAH EL HBAS<br />

First discovered in 2007 this cave was finally<br />

completed in 2008 with the arrival at the end of the cave<br />

after two short rope drops. the cave’s development is<br />

now 370m.<br />

(CHECK OUAT’OUATE 14 FOR THE REST OF THE SURvEY)<br />

An article from An Nahar newspaper on the cave, February 2004<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x= 124,833m y=179,387m z=395m asl<br />

2004<br />

13.6m, vertical<br />

Keserouane Formation<br />

Fadi Nader<br />

Hiba Aboul Hosn<br />

Fadi Nader, Hiba Aboul Hosn<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

136 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 137<br />

Location of Houet Mrah El Hbas<br />

An article from <strong>Al</strong> Balad newspaper on the cave, February 2004<br />

Mr. Habib H. a member of<br />

the Scl informed the club that a<br />

new sinkhole is present in Mrah<br />

el Hbas village south lebanon. In<br />

February 2003 it was explored<br />

and mapped. to the surprise of<br />

the group it contained human<br />

bones )precisely 7 human skulls(.<br />

the appropriate authorities were<br />

called on to identify the human<br />

remains end excavate them.<br />

HOUET TAwKO<br />

<strong>du</strong>ring the geological investigation of the Bchare<br />

area in 2005, a local shepard informed Scl members of a<br />

sinkhole close to his farm.<br />

this sinkhole was found to have an extremely tight<br />

entrance with an initial drop of 7m. larger cavers could not<br />

enter so it remained to the thin ones to survey the cave. It<br />

proved to be an interesting cave because it developed in<br />

Quaternary deposits like Qadisha cave.<br />

the cave consists of two levels. the first is a small<br />

room with a muddy floor leading to a 14m drop which leads<br />

onto a ledge that drops another 4m into a large room filled<br />

with concretions and boulders.<br />

The very tight entrance of Houet Tawko.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Wassim H. getting ready to descent into Houet Tawko.<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x=179,761m y=256,802m z=1955m asl<br />

2004<br />

25m, vertical<br />

Quaternary deposits<br />

Wassim Hamdan<br />

Bashir Khoury<br />

Wassim Hamdan<br />

Wassim Hamdan<br />

The location of Houet Tawko.


HOUET RAS EL ASTAR<br />

this pothole was spotted by a member of the<br />

club while driving along the daraya road. a team then<br />

undertook the exploration after removing a large rock<br />

that was blocking the entrance and slightly widening<br />

the opening to allow cavers inside.<br />

It is located on the road leading to daraya from<br />

Ballouneh about 200m South of a well known farm in a<br />

relatively newly cut road.<br />

the entrance is on the side of a road cut just below<br />

a small four meter cliff. after descending about 12m,<br />

you will reach a platform of about 6 m long and 3m<br />

wide. after the deviation the sinkhole is tight.<br />

the bottom is 4m long and 2.5 m large, a tight<br />

passage is seen that leads to a blocked tight room at<br />

about -1m from bottom. the pothole is rich in fragile<br />

concretions. one must pay attention from fallen rocks.<br />

The entrance to Houet Ras el Astar<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x: 146,024m y: 224,000m z: 648m asl<br />

August 2006<br />

25m, vertical<br />

Keserouane Formation, J4<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

Shadi Chaker<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

Location of Houet Ras el Astar<br />

138 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 139<br />

HOUET EL DOuEIK<br />

this pothole has been explored by Scl in<br />

the past and was not revisited for a very long time.<br />

While searching for this pothole based on the known<br />

coordinates, it was discovered that those are wrong<br />

and about 100 m away from the true location which<br />

was pinpointed by a local shepherd. this pothole was<br />

recently used as a sink by workers who were involved<br />

in construction.<br />

the pothole is located along side the road leading<br />

down to the Jeita terminal siphon tunnel from Ballouneh<br />

just below an artificial rock-wall.<br />

the relatively narrow entrance leads to a fracture<br />

oriented )310°-130°( pothole that is elongate in shape<br />

with a wider side towards the 130° direction. down to<br />

7m below the entrance, the pothole is still small and<br />

narrow until it dramatically expands to more than 8m in<br />

length and 4m in width. the bottom is filled with rubble<br />

and garbage including nylon and tires. the walls are<br />

either exposed or covered with calcite.<br />

The entrance to Houet El Doueik<br />

(Photo by Johnny Tawk)<br />

Location of Houet El Doueik<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x: 145,597m y: 223,536m z: 632m asl<br />

March, 2008<br />

38m, vertical<br />

Keserouane Formation, J4<br />

Marc Metni Waleed Jad<br />

Phillipe Saade<br />

Habib Helou<br />

Johnny Tawk<br />

Johnny Tawk


MGHARET EL NISSIAN<br />

The entrance of Mgharet el Nissian<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

A tunnel inside Mgharet el Nissian<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

this cave was discovered in 1999 by mistake<br />

when a group of cavers were looking for achou cave<br />

and stumbled upon it thinking it was achou cave.<br />

When they realized it was a completely new cave they<br />

decided to return and draw a full survey.<br />

this cave lies about 15m below the entrance of<br />

achou cave. Its name is derived from the fact that<br />

one of the members who first discovered the cave had<br />

forgotten his boots, wallet and caving clothes that day.<br />

nissain means forgetfulness in arabic.<br />

the cave consists of a series of passages all<br />

extending treelike from the one branch. Some bats<br />

were located at the end of one of the passages and a<br />

four meter climb was made to explore a passage but<br />

it was found to be very tight after about six meters to<br />

continue.<br />

Some archeological remains can also be found<br />

inside the cave. part of a human skull was found as well<br />

as pottery and bones.<br />

Location of Mgharet el Nissian<br />

The 4m climb up to a small gallery<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

A small bat found inside one of the cave passages<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

140 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 141<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x=177,805m y=272,938m z=650m asl<br />

Summer, 1999<br />

150m, horizontal<br />

Keserouane Formation, J4<br />

Rena Karanouh<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude


HOUET EL DAKHNEH<br />

In March 2008, Hisham Bou Jaoude,<br />

the brother of one of the members of SCL,<br />

discovered, in Beit Merry, a sinkhole, while<br />

digging the foundations of a house.<br />

The sinkhole was located below one of<br />

the potential footing of the building. That is<br />

why it was important to define the dimensions<br />

of the sinkhole.<br />

First Issam Bou Jawdeh went to check it<br />

to see if it was worth an outing. To his surprise<br />

it was filled with smoke. Apparently workers<br />

had burnt cement bags (TRABET EL SABEE)<br />

and threw them into the sinkhole to check its<br />

depth. They said the light faded slowly and it<br />

was deep, more than 50m! This is how Houet<br />

el Dakhneh got its name.<br />

The RISE clan, from the <strong>Spéléo</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>du</strong><br />

<strong>Liban</strong>, went to explore it the next day after<br />

the smoke had dissipated. The clan rigged on<br />

four pieces of wood (Mourina, Photo 2 - long<br />

pieces of wood used in building) and Issam<br />

B. J. descended into the smoke to find a 21m<br />

pit.<br />

After this first shaft there was another<br />

drop of 40m. At the bottom this shaft it<br />

bifurcated into two directions, one to the left,<br />

leading to a 5m drop that ends up in a choke.<br />

There is an opening below the rubble and the<br />

choke as verified by the tumbling of a small<br />

stone.<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x=177,805m y=272,938m z= 650m asl<br />

Spring, 2008<br />

90m, vertical<br />

Location of Houet el Dakhneh<br />

Keserouane Formation, J4<br />

Rena Karanouh Elias Labaky<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

Samer Harb<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude, Rena Karanouh<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

The second opening to the right led<br />

to a 10 meter climb. Issam B spotted Elias<br />

L. The climb led to another two drops. Rena<br />

K. followed Elias L. and they rigged the two<br />

sinkholes. One was 10 meters and the other<br />

was approximately 21 m and both end in<br />

chokes that have no potential according to<br />

Elias the only one to check them.<br />

On the 22nd of March, British cavers<br />

joined in the dig. Mike C. rigged with the help<br />

of Emma. Issam B. and Rena K. blasted some<br />

large rocks. The ‘caterpillar’ Dave (now known<br />

as ‘the Old Cat’) did a great job in enlarging the<br />

entrance with his special technique, having a<br />

lot of digging experience, obviously! We were<br />

awe struck when he began digging. If he had<br />

taken over from the beginning the dig would<br />

have been one hour long instead of the five it<br />

took.<br />

The ‘<strong>du</strong>g’ entrance, finally, after all the<br />

hard work, was large and safe enough (a lot<br />

of rubble had to be cleaned before anyone<br />

attempted to descend) for passing. Another<br />

two shafts one 10 meters and another<br />

approximately 30 meters were observed.<br />

Both had lots of potential.<br />

The following is an extract from the<br />

report written by Issam B. J. in 2008:<br />

We decided to not continue as we<br />

were all tired from the hours of digging<br />

so we decided to come back early the next<br />

day. We knew we had a hard climb back up<br />

to the surface because, in this cave, the<br />

ropes get covered with so much mud that<br />

the ascending devices do not immediately<br />

grip the rope and they tended to slip a<br />

lot. So for every movement up with the<br />

hand ascenders we had to repeat it about<br />

a couple of times until the device’s<br />

teeth gripped. It was very annoying and<br />

dangerous.<br />

We came back the next day, eager<br />

to explore the two remaining shafts,<br />

dreaming about them the night before<br />

and what treasures we would find, only<br />

to discover, to our horror, that the<br />

entrance of the cave had been closed with<br />

a huge cement slab.<br />

No words can ever describe how we<br />

felt when we saw this.<br />

The first level of the sinkhole<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

The entrance to the sinkhole<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

Descending into the sinkhole<br />

(Photo by Issam Bou Jaoude)<br />

142 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 143


ANTELIAS CAVE<br />

Location of Mgharet Anterlias<br />

Surveying Antelias cave<br />

(Photo by Rena Karanouh)<br />

discovered in 2008, this cave is located<br />

approximately 300m from the water works entrance of<br />

Mgharet el Kassarat.<br />

It consists of a long nearly straight tight<br />

passage measuring 40m. It is adorned with flowstone,<br />

speleothems of all kinds and some dry water pools.<br />

Mouse nests were seen inside and the first time the<br />

cave was explored a snake was found inside.<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x=139,400m y=219,220m z=140m asl<br />

Fall, 2008<br />

40m, horizontal<br />

Keseroune Formation, J4<br />

Rena Karanouh Marc Metni<br />

Issam Bou Jouade Georges Hadad<br />

Rena Karanouh<br />

Rena Karanouh<br />

144 | <strong>Al</strong>-Ouat ’Ouate 15 | 145<br />

JOuRET EL BALLOuT SINKHOLE<br />

this sinkhole is located in the middle of the road<br />

on the new Metn highway in Jouret el Ballout village.<br />

Knowing that this sinkhole will be forever lost once the<br />

highway is finished the sinkhole was explored as soon<br />

as it was brought to Scl’s attention.<br />

LOCATION<br />

DISCOVERED IN<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

GEOLOGY<br />

SURVEYED BY<br />

DRAWN BY<br />

DIGITIZED BY<br />

x=140,590m y=217,247m z=540m asl<br />

Spring, 2004<br />

31.5m, vertical<br />

Bikfaya Formation, J6<br />

Rena Karanouh Hadi Kaasamani<br />

Naoum Bashir Wael Sabra<br />

Naoum Bashir<br />

Issam Bou Jaoude<br />

Location of Jouret el Ballout sinkhole<br />

The entrace of Jouret el Ballout sinkhole<br />

Tight<br />

Tight<br />

1.5 m<br />

1.5 m<br />

Flow stone<br />

Flow stone<br />

Mud<br />

Mud<br />

19 m<br />

19 m<br />

31.5 m<br />

31.5 m

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