Film

“Casino Royale”: The mystery behind Eva Green's purple dress

Vogue discovers the secrets behind the dress Eva Green wore in “Casino Royale” that's maybe even more mysterious than Vesper Lynd herself. 
Eva Green en robe violette dans le film Casino Royale James Bond
COLLECTION CHRISTOPHEL © Columbia Pictures

When Daniel Craig became the new James Bond in Casino Royale in 2006, it was not without public disapproval. Blonder, younger, and often thought of as less sophisticated… the actor followed in the footsteps of the much-loved Pierce Brosnan. Director Martin Campbell's goal was to tell the story of Agent 007's beginnings and his very first mission against Le Chiffre. This is where Vesper Lynd comes in, responsible for making sure the mission goes smoothly. Unlike the classic James Bond girl in a bikini, Vesper Lynd redefines the codes of beauty in the spy films. First played by Ursula Andress in 1967, Martin Campbell this time sets his sights on Eva Green. Dark-haired, alabaster skin, dreamy eyes… the perfect look for bringing to life the mysterious and complex character who would capture Bond's heart. Her mysterious charm was so powerful that she leaves no one indifferent, especially when she enters the casino in her famous and unforgettable purple dress.

The renaissance dress

The first bond girl cast by Ian Fleming in the James Bond saga, Vesper Lynd is a mysterious and complicated character who reveals herself slowly throughout the film. We first meet her in Casino Royale on a train, dressed in a plain suit, yet her masterful appearance in the poker room amazes and reveals a lot about what she hides within. This sleek but stoic accountant turns femme fatale by night in a close-fitting Roberto Cavalli gown, given to her by Bond himself. 007 assigns her the task of standing just behind Bond in the middle of the poker game in order to distract the players. But Vesper Lynd disobeys her orders, and instead stands in front of him, knocking him off with a look and placing a kiss on his cheek. It’s then that Eva Green’s dizzying, beaded neckline, and stunning bare-back mesmerize the audience. This detail, which at first seems insignificant, is a storytelling twist that reveals a new side of the James Bond girl's personality: she plays the game but by her own rules.

Vesper Lynd's split personality

By choosing  Roberto Cavalli's purple silk dress, costume designer Lindy Hemming sent a double message. In Western culture, purple is synonymous with spirituality, determination and calm. All the qualities that Vesper Lynd seems to possess. But when the dress transforms her a few scenes later, it's a mark of a much more complex and dark personality. After Obanno's murder, Vesper Lynd's apparent strength is shattered. When James Bond finds her in their hotel room, the young woman has lost her grip… sitting in the shower, she drowns her silent tears under a trickle of cold water. The Roberto Cavalli dress changes from a brilliant purple to a dark eggplant and takes on a darker symbolism: melancholy, loneliness, and death. During this scene, in what seems to become a pattern, Daniel Craig's wet white shirt turns transparent. This stylistic effect accompanies the male character in revealing an aspect of his personality that was seldom seen in previous James Bond films: vulnerability, compassion and tenderness. The tragic relationship destroyed by Vesper’s betrayal will mark the spy throughout his life and give the franchise a whole new dimension.

Translated by Dawn Orlin

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