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Rachel Zoe knows what Rachel Zoe wants. And she’s continuing to align herself with the customers she’s courted to her namesake brand—drawn in equal parts to the cult of personality she’s built and the glamorous L.A. lifestyle she personifies. Her fall outing was an homage to the city she calls home, if in disparate bursts of inspiration. The designer veered away from caftans and heavy doses of metallics this season in favor of more muted colors (navy, as a first), subtler prints like an allover vine floral, and a focus on tailoring that was seen in the number of suit options.

Wearability felt more of a focus than ever. A rich navy microdot was embroidered onto a collarless blazer, chiffon shirting, and blouson midi-dress, all with the same delicate puff sleeve. Zoe took a sharper turn with a modern matador suit, complete with cropped jacket and cinched slacks, while elsewhere she used detailed pleating to give more feminine definition to menswear silhouettes. Zoe kept a focus on the season’s August delivery with lighter fabrications, including a linen blend, transparent silk chiffons, and light-gauge knits.

Of course, there were also the requisite red carpet numbers. They included slinky stretch velvet suits with belted blazers paired back to sweeping trousers, a body-con strapless midi with a tulip hem, and a black and gold brocade suit that relied on volume with oversized puff bracelet sleeves and a wide, exaggerated leg. Zoe is at her best when she interprets the trends through her own lens, paying careful attention to what works for “her girl.”