Review: Santa Maria del Mar

Tell me: What’s this place all about?
Ask any local to pick their favorite church and we’d bet a glass of (sacramental) Catalan wine that Santa Maria del Mar would be it. If you’ve read Ildefonso Falcones’s thriller Cathedral of the Sea, you’ll already know more about it than you think: the novel’s backdrop is the construction of this particular Gothic church, with the lead protagonist one of its stone workers. In real life, the church’s history is almost stranger than fiction: in 1428, it was shaken by a major earthquake. Then, in July 1936, it was set on fire and burned for 11 days straight. Look inside, and you’ll still see the black scorch marks on the roof.

What’s it like being there?
There’s a strange sense of calm. It’s put down to the proportions of the building: very tall columns, set 43 feet apart—that’s extremely wide, by building standards. Combine that airiness with vast stretches of stained glass and it almost feels like someone’s pulling you up into the sky.

Is there a guide involved?
Guided tours in English run once a day on Fridays (4pm), Saturdays (11.15am) and Sundays (3pm) for around €13 ($13), and take you around the nave, crypt, galleries, and rooftop. To explore solo, visits inside the church cost €5 ($5) - though it’s worth upgrading to a €10 ($10) ticket to access the towers, view-blessed rooftop, and crypt.

Who comes here?
The church prides itself on an everyone-welcome mindset, likely stemming back to its origins, when local merchants (rather than the monarchy) funded its expansion.

Did it meet expectations?
Go in even if you’re not completely wowed by the outside. Its interior feels deceptively large (consider this the original Feng Shui).

Got it. So, then, what, or who, do you think it’s best for?
If you’re in El Born, everyone should feel the atmosphere inside for at least five minutes. Still on the fence? This will help: Santa Maria del Mar is what inspired Gaudí to build La Sagrada Familia.