World famous, made even more famous by Indiana Jones, one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World… We are talking about Petra, this incredible Nabatean city filled with magnificent monuments cut in reddish stone.
Petra alone is worth the trip to Jordan – although the country offers plenty of other places worth a visit (click here to see our itinerary through Jordan coming soon).
Our visit of Petra
We chose to visit Petra in two days. Having discussed with a couple staying at the same hostel and the manager the night before, we decided to go there as soon as possible and to make a day of major monuments and get lost a little on the second day. .. Finally, we did a little a lot differently … 🙂
Our first day in Petra
On our first day of visit, we arrived at the ticket office a little after 7am, which opens at 7am. This is where you have to show your Jordan Pass if you have it. Entrance tickets are nominative, so you need to show your passport. (On the other hand, the next day, the controls weren’t very strict for us).
The Treasury
Here we are heading towards the Treasury – THE view everyone knows of Petra. We start with 30 to 45 minutes of walking along a path where we can the first graves on the side of the road and then gradually sinking into the Siq, a beautiful canyon surrounding us with huge cliffs.
Then, the Treasury first appears timidly in the interstice of the two cliffs of the canyon before rising masterfully and suddenly before us – wow! Despite being early, this view is not only for us alone and it’s difficult – if not impossible – to take a picture without anyone else on it.
Here the first Bedouin kids come to offer us to take us to the viewpoint, a high point of view overlooking the treasure, showing us photos of the style of those influencers on Instagram, with the Treasury in the background… maybe tomorrow…
The Monastery
Once a few tons of photos of the Treasury taken, we continue our way towards the Monastery, this monument that let himself be desired and be deserved. It will indeed be necessary beforehand to rise 850 steps in full sun of about an hour before it suddenly appears on our side. Wow effect guaranteed!
The little moment of suffering and doubt, even regrets of wanting to go up, fly away immediately. Some say that the Monastery is even more beautiful than the Treasury. We will let you make up your own mind. 🙂
We didn’t just admire the monastery from the restaurant, we continued to climb a little bit to have a bird’s eye view on it. We missed another place very “Instagrammable” in a rock on the left side of the Monastery (when we look at it).
We then continued following the signs “Best view of Petra”. This path leads us up a cliff with a splendid view of the desert. This is worth the detour.
My personal remark
Between the Treasury and the climb to the Monastery, you will meet camels and donkeys and their masters wanting to sell you the climb to the Monastery on a donkey.
PLEASE DO NOT TAKE ANY DONKEY TO CLIMB TO THE MONASTERY!!!
These poor animals have to make the 850 steps back and forth several times a day under the hot sun, being whipped so that they advance when they simply cannot anymore, carrying all these people very often too heavy on their poor back..! It’s not just the elephants that need to be saved!
The Treasury and the Monastery are the two unmissable of Petra. Once visited, you choose the additional walk you want to do in order to discover all these other wonders offered by the site.
Then we leave the main tourist route
Personally, the first day, we went to the High Place of Sacrifice from which you can see 60% of Petra (percentage according to the manager of our hotel and guide) as well as to one of the two elevated view point on the Treasury.
Except that we didn't take the recommended path
For the easier way, you have to climb the stairs close to the Treasury – no, we preferred to leave from the Great Temple and do 4 hours of steps and climbs, all uphill and under the sun, in order to get there…
But from the beginning, no more tourists in the surroundings! We find ourselves alone to admire and realize the greatness of Petra.
If the first part goes up gradually, the last part is steeper. The path is replaced by stairs more or less irregular. Once arrived at the top, the efforts are rewarded, we have a breathtaking view all over the site. Petra stretches on a larger surface than our eyes can observe, even from here!
Then the adventure to find one of the two view points begins
We then decide to go to one of two viewpoints on the Treasury. We know that there is a way to get there from the High Point of Sacrifice, it is simply not marked anywhere. Using GPS on our phones, we navigate through smaller and smaller paths, steeper and steeper.
We find the view point directly, after having turned back once, we finally find a gateway that will lead us to the famous view point, it let itself be deserved as well!
It is followed by a session of intensive pictures from all possible locations, already predicting a difficult moment of selection of the best photos.
We enjoy during a long time the magnificent view of the Treasury that we have. We then descend with another group of tourists and their guide by the very steep path but so much more direct.
We leave Petra after more than 12 hours of walking in the site
We arrive directly in front of the Treasury while the sun is already set on Petra. The way back in the Siq is impressive, the height of the cliffs does not let much light in and it gives an almost mystical dimension to our way out of Petra.
Muscle aches can already be felt. Even after a good meal, the fifteen minute walk to our hotel looks a bit like a nightmare, Nicolas probably still believes that I blame him for not having taken a taxi for that part.
Our second day in Petra
The next day, we decide to arrive a bit later than the first day, especially since I don’t feel very well.
The Treasury and its viewpoint, bis!
Upon arrival at the Treasury, the sun illuminates the door directly, leaving us speechless once more. Seeing that the sun remains only a small period on the door, we decide to hire one of the kids to guide us to the view point.
The climb is steep, his help is precious and we are happy to have good shoes. Once arrived at the top, although the light is no longer ideal (the direct illumination of the Treasure is unfortunately really, really short…), we start our paparazzi session. We want to be sure to have THE ideal shot(S).
We then wander in the sun with this magnificent view and enjoy having a good cellphone network to make video calls with Switzerland.
Royal Tombs
Once back down, we continue towards the Royal Tombs, a group of tombs on the right of the main path, having a panoramic view on the site.
Our day ended earlier than expected
As I felt worse and worse, Nicolas shortened my suffering, we left in the early afternoon so that I could lay in the cold room, ending our visit to Petra a little earlier than planned.
In summary, Petra is so much more than that...
Indeed, it’s so much more than the Treasury, the Monastery and the Royal Tombs! It is the thousands of other graves dug in each neighboring mountain, it’s thousand of other doors almost as impressive as the two main ones, it’s the clever system of retention and distribution of water and it’s finally, the high place of sacrifice, at the top of the mountain after an incalculable number of steps worn out by time.
Petra is all that and much more! And for all the rest, it’s up to you to experience it.
What's next for us?
After Petra, we continued to the South of Jordan to discover the Wadi Rum Desert.
Practical tips to visit Petra
We were able to make you want to visit Petra? Awesome! Now you may be wondering: How to get to Petra? How to visit Petra? What to see/do in Petra? Where to eat in Petra? Where to stay/to sleep in Petra?
Here are some tips and tricks to get the most out of your visit to this magical place that has so much to offer!
If you are looking for information about Jordan more generally, you will find everything you need here (coming soon).
How to get to Wadi Musa, city where Petra is located?
We went there after three days at the Dead Sea. A direct taxi ride is much more expensive than going back to Amman by taxi and taking a bus. The bus leaves from the South Station in Amman, the journey is approximately 5 to 6 hours and costs 7 JOD (9.80 CHF or 8.50 €). The bus isn’t too uncomfortable and the roads are in good conditions. There is no room for luggage which will end up crushed in the main aisle of the bus under other luggage.
The final stop of the bus is in the city of Petra (Wadi Musa). About 15 minutes walk from the historic site.
How to visit Petra?
In order to avoid the crowds, it is best to arrive early in the morning and as soon as possible “get lost” out of the main tourist axis.
Although very touristic – the two monuments that you shouldn’t missed are the Treasury and the Monastery.
The scam of the horseback ride included in the entrance ticket
As stated on the back of the ticket, you are entitled to take a horse from the box office to the Siq entrance (maximum 1 km). Guys waiting for you soon after the entrance with their horses sell the stuff as included in the entrance fee and you can leave a tip at the end if you wish. Once arrived in front of the Siq, the tips are requested immediately and you are well understood if it is too low for their taste (which is always the case, of course) … We ended up paying 10 JOD ( 14 CHF or 12 €) for a few meters on horseback (alone, given that we know how to ride horses) supposedly already included in the price of the ticket – already quite expensive enough by itself. One of them tried to ask us twice as much, which we kindly refused before we went our way… We advise you to do as we do the first day and walk, you will enjoy more the graves that are already visible on the way.
The journey from the entrance to the treasure can also be done in a horse carriage
It’s said that it’s for the people with reduced mobility, against paiement of 20 JOD (28 CHF or 24 €) by ride (40 JOD return) – official prices displayed at the entrance, without future tips. But I’m sure they don’t refuse anyone.
The viewpoints on the Treasury
It’s also possible to admire the Treasury from two elevated viewpoints, one on each side of the Siq.
The one on the left (when looking at the door) can be reached either by hiring a young Bedouin to guide you through “rock climbing”, it can be negotiated for 5 JOD (7 CHF or 6.10 €). It is also possible (but frowned upon) to do without hiring a young guy. We recommend to hire someone because following the path isn’t easy and he will help you to climb two-three less obvious places. In any case, do not go there without good shoes or if your physical abilities do not allow you to climb a little.
The point of view can also be reached via Indiana Jones trail or via the high point of sacrifice. There are few indications. Stacks of stones mark a hypothetical path to follow. Plastic bottles and other waste are also a track to follow…
It will cost you 2 JOD or the equivalent in drinks to take pictures from the elevated view.
The point of view on the right is reachable by continuing the path after passing in front of all the royal tombs.
Petra offers almost no shadow
In Petra, it’s warm, very warm! In addition, you will walk a lot. The 850 steps of the climb to the Monastery are long, take your time, take breaks and drink! Water, of course!
Make sure you stay hydrated and protect your head. We opted for the purchase of turbans. Negotiate the price of these turbans. If they are often sold for 10 JOD in the beginning, it is possible to negotiate one for 4-5 JOD in the end. The sellers show you even how to put them. I became an expert to such an extent that I had to put the turbans to more than one Bedouin! (Or was it a trick to be closer to a beautiful blonde with blue eyes? We’ll never know …)
Where to sleep in Petra? Accommodations
Some hotels are less than 100m from the entrance to the historic site with some tourist restaurants (understand prices for tourists). Given that they were clearly out of our budget, we stayed more downtown in the Rose City hotel. Apart from the call to prayer at 4am (at the same time, it’s valid for the whole city), it is quite quiet.
The manager greeted us like home and made us live Jordanian hospitality at the height of its reputation by offering us tea every night.
We were also able to have breakfast earlier than standard times in order to be on site at the opening of the site as well as the day we left. The breakfast is good although it’s always falafel from the nearby restaurant Reem Beladi.
Where to eat in Petra? The restaurants
The first night we went to eat at Reem Beladi just steps away from our hotel. There were only a few people in the restaurant. On the other hand, countless locals came to take their meals as take-away. In our opinion, this is a sign that you can eat well. We were quite happy with our meal, cheap, very (too) abundant and a nice server (although a little too pushy to make a positive comment on Trip Advisor).
The second night we went to Mom’s receipt very close to the historic site. The setting was more luxurious than at the first restaurant and the prices were adjusted accordingly. The fresh juices were excellent.
The last night we went to Al Wadi on advice from our hotel. It’s a restaurant with mixed reviews on Trip Advisor: very well ranked but a lot of negative comments on the service. Some other restaurants have the same type of comments and it looks like they are making a cyber-war between them. According to us, the service depends on the server you have, you may be lucky or not. The food is very good.
Entrance fees
If you don’t have the Jordan Pass (see our article on Jordan for all the details coming soon), a day in Petra will cost you 50 JOD (70 CHF or 61 €), two days 55 JOD (77 CHF or 67 €) and three days 60 JOD (84 CHF or 73 €). The site opens at 6am but the ticket office only at 7am. The first da, it is therefore necessary to arrive after 7am. An idea (untested) could be to buy the tickets the day before so you can get in as soon as possible. If you have the answer on the feasibility of our idea, please comment below.
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