The different parts of the maiko and geiko “look.” Almost all of the terms used on this page can also be found in the Karyukai Glossary. All non-linked pictures are used with permission of the original photographer (who wishes to remain anonymous). All linked images are property of their respective owners whose pages you can reach simply by clicking on them.

This section is still under construction and is not 100% completed yet.

The Basics of Kanzashi (かんざし/簪) and Nihongami (日本髪)

The Front of the Maiko’s First Hairstyle - Misedashi Wareshinobu (見世出し割れしのぶ) or Seisōyō Wareshinobu (正装用割れしのぶ)
A special type of hairstyle worn only during the first three days of a maiko’s apprenticeship.

               
                   Maiko Umeraku of Umeno in Kamishichiken on the day of her misedashi

1) Bira Ōgi (ビラ扇) - Features the kamon of the girl’s okiya on it as well as metallic silver strips that flutter when moving to attract a viewer’s gaze
2) Second Bira Ōgi (ビラ扇二) - Traditionally worn by maiko when they began training before their teenage years, it is now only worn with the misedashi wareshinobu and by junior Pontocho maiko for New Year’s visits.
3) Chirikan (チリカン) - Special Bekkō (鼈甲 - Tortoiseshell) hair ornaments worn only with the Misedashi Wareshinobu style.
4) Bekkō Kushi (鼈甲櫛) - A special kushi (櫛 - Comb) made from tortoiseshell. 
5) Chinkoro (ちんころ) - A piece of red fabric tied at the front of a maiko’s hairstyle. It signifies that she is still a child.
6) Bekkō Hirauchi (鼈甲平打) - A pronged hair pin made of tortoiseshell. Traditionally these two pieces would have been inserted on either side of a bride’s hairstyle, but in the karyukai one takes the place of the regular hirauchi in the back and the other is inserted into the front right behind the chinkoro knot in a stylish fashion.


The Back of the Maiko’s First Hairstyle - Misedashi Wareshinobu (見世出し割れしのぶ)  or Seisōyō Wareshinobu (正装用割れしのぶ)
               

1) Kanokodome (鹿の子留め) - A decoration worn on top of the “Mage“ (髷) or ”Bun“ part of the wareshinobu style. They are made out of the same precious materials as Pocchiri (ぽっちり - See below).
2) Back Bekkō Hirauchi (鼈甲平打).
3) Bira Ōgi (ビラ扇).
4) Front Bekkō Hirauchi (鼈甲平打).
5) Bekkō Kushi (鼈甲櫛).
6) Arimachi Kanoko (ありまち鹿の子) - Shibori (絞り) tie dyed silk that is tied through the mage.
7) Tama (玉) - ”Ball“ kanzashi that changes depending on the time of year. Red coral is worn from October to May and green jade is worn from June to September.
8) Miokuri (見送り) - Paper strips with silver on top and red underneath. They are worn in two sets of three (six total) and are meant to catch the viewer’s eye. They are worn only with misedashi wareshinobu and some special styles during Setsubun.


The Front of a Junior Maiko’s Hairstyle
The same elements are worn by all maiko regardless of seniority with few exceptions.
                  
                                        Junior maiko Mamefusa of Arai in Gion Kobu

1) Daikan (大かん) - The “Main” or “Front” kanzashi worn by maiko.
2) Katsuyama (勝山) - Also known as a “Bridge” kanzashi in English so as to not confuse with the hairstyle of the same name (see below).
3) Bira Ōgi (ビラ扇).
4) Maezashi (まえざし) - A small kanzashi that is chosen based on the wearer. It can also be called a “Bira Dome” (びら留め). Junior maiko in Gion Kobu will wear a maezashi with eight green dumplings known as “Tsunagi Dango” (つなぎ団子 - pictured above) until they are 18 years old.
5) Chinkoro (ちんころ).


The Back of a Junior Maiko’s Hairstyle - Wareshinobu (割れしのぶ)
The first style worn by maiko. It identifies her as a junior member of the hanamachi.                                        

1) Kanokodome (鹿の子留め).
2) Tachibana (橘) - ”Orange Blossoms“ worn by junior maiko. They represent ripening orange fruits, with the green tama being unripe, a medium sized red (or sometimes pink) tama being about half mature, and the red tama representing the fully ripened fruit. They are made of jade and coral and feature silver leaves.
3) Arimachi Kanoko (ありまち鹿の子).
4) Tama (玉).


The Back of a Junior Maiko’s Hairstyle - Formal Seisōyō Wareshinobu (正装用割れしのぶ)
Normal kanzashi are replaced by ones made from antique tortoiseshell known as Bekkō (鼈甲). Since it is past her misedashi she will not wear any miokuri.

            
                          Maiko Mitsuna of Tanmika in Pontocho during Shigyōshiki

1) Daikan (大かん).
2) Bekkō Kushi (鼈甲櫛) - See below.
3) Kanokodome (鹿の子留め).
4) Front Bekkō Hirauchi (鼈甲平打).
5) Back Bekkō Hirauchi (鼈甲平打).
6) Arimachi Kanoko (ありまち鹿の子).
7) Tachibana (橘) - When it comes to formality the tachibana takes the place of the regular Tama (玉) on the left hand side in junior maiko and is replaced on the right hand side by the Hirauchi (平打). 

The Senior Maiko’s Hairstyle - Ofuku (おふく)
The style worn by senior maiko who have been active for at least 2-3 years.                                                                                                                                                

                     Senior maiko Taneju of Takayoshi in Miyagawa Cho

1) Daikan (大かん).
2) Kushi (櫛) - A comb worn by senior maiko as it is less decorative than a Katsuyama kanzashi and shows maturity.
3) Bira Ōgi (ビラ扇).
4) Maezashi (まえざし) or Bira Dome (びら留め).
5) Chinkoro (ちんころ).
6) Hirauchi (平打) - A silver ornamental hair pin that’s worn in lieu of tachibana. It can feature either the kamon of the girl’s okiya or other decorative motifs such as flowers or birds.
7) Tama (玉).
8) Tegara (手柄) - A piece of folded cloth worn instead of kanoko. Senior maiko first wear a red tegara that will then change to pink and finally bright colors such as blue, green, or orange before they become geiko. 


The Senior Maiko’s Hairstyle - Yakko Shimada (奴島田)
Worn by senior maiko on formal occasions such as Shigyōshiki, Hassaku (Gion Kobu only), or prior to wearing the sakkō hairstyle at the end of her apprenticeship.
              
                    Maiko Toshiteru of Komaya in Miyagawa Cho during Shigyōshiki

1) Daikan (大かん).
2) Bekkō Kushi (鼈甲櫛).
3) Bira Ōgi (ビラ扇).
4) Rice Husk Maezashi (籾まえざし) - Worn during New Year’s celebrations, the rice grains are given to customers who will keep them in their wallets as good luck charms in the coming year.
5) Chinkoro (ちんころ).
6) Tama (玉).
7) Kanoko (鹿の子).
8) Jade and Coral Tama Kanzashi (青玉と珊瑚玉) - A small, jade tama is inserted into the middle of the mage with a string of coral tama tied around the jade tama and the mage. The colors are sometimes reversed in the summer.

The Senior Maiko’s Hair Style - Katsuyama (勝山).
Worn only during the Gion Festival in July.
                 
                   Maiko Teruyuki of Tsurui in Gion Kobu during the Gion Festival

1) Daikan (大かん).
2) Bira Ōgi (ビラ扇).
3) Maezashi (まえざし) or Bira Dome (びら留め).
4) Chinkoro (ちんころ).
5) Katsuyama (勝山) - The kanzashi that gets its name from the shape of kanzashi originally worn with the Katsuyama style.
6) Bonten (梵天) - Large wire flower ornaments that are placed into the ends of the Katsuyama style’s mage as accents.


Maiko Special Hairstyles - Setsubun 節分
During Setsubun (February 2nd - 4th) maiko wear special hairstyles that were once popular during the Edo Period. Although only some images are currently available, the names and descriptions of all styles are as follows:

Fukiwa 吹輪: The katsuyama style with hime and miokuri addition.
          
                     Maiko Koyoshi of Shigemori in Miyagawa Cho during Setsubun

Hime 姫: Two stands of hair that hang down from a hairstyle, one on each side of the face.

Kikugasane 菊重ね: Features kanoko like the ones found in the yakko shimada style, but it is twisted and knotted through the hair to look like a multilayered chrysanthemum. 

Mitsumage 三つ髷: An extremely rare style that closely resembles a cross between the wareshinobu and the ofuku style. Instead of a triangular tegara there’s a colored kanoko pulled through the bottom and then around the mage itself.

Osafune 長舟/長船: Similar to katsuyama, but features a simple cloth tied around the base of the mage with a kogai (see below) set in the middle of the cloth and no bonten.

Oshidori (Hina and Mesu) おしどり (雛と雌): A “pinched” mage with a small tama kanzashi and silver mottoi (see below) tied at the pinched section for the hina type. The mesu features a kanoko tied through the mage with a hair extension on top of the mage. The hairstyles are meant to look like the feathers of a mandarin duck.
                  
                     Maiko Fukutama of Shigemori in Miyagawa Cho during Setsubun

Osome お染: Looks very similar to Wareshinobu, but has a small “tail"of hair where the kanokodome should be and has miokuri inserted into the back.
                 
                      Maiko Fukuya of Kawayoshi in Miyagawa Cho during Setsubun

Suisha 水車: Similar to oshun with a tied cloth and kogai kanzashi where the kanoko is. 

Umemodoki 梅もどき: Also similar to wareshinobu, it does not have the arimachi kanoko but the hair on the mage is spread out into four sections instead of two.

Yuiwata 結綿: Like kikugasane, but has a kanoko that splits the mage in two instead of wrapping around it.
            
                      Maiko Koharu of Shigemori in Miyagawa Cho during Setsubun

The Senior Maiko’s Special Hair Style - Oshun (お俊)

This style is worn during Setsubun or by maiko from Pontocho before they wear sakkō. It is very similar to Suisha (水車).
             
         Maiko Hisachō of Tanmika in Pontocho wearing the oshun style before her erikae

1) Chinkoro (ちんころ) - Not present in this image as she is not in “working” mode.
2) Kushi (櫛).
3) Kanoko (鹿の子) - Usually pink or red and is knotted around the main part of the mage.
4) Nejiri Shiraga Tonbo (ねじり白髪トンボ) - Twisted silver paper wire used as a means of transition. They are a special type of Mottoi (元結 - see below). 
5) Ichidome (位置止): A decorative pin on a long prong that fits into the hair extensions on some special styles.
6) Hashi No Ke (橋の毛) - A small hair extension traditionally made of yak hair. It is combed in with the maiko’s own hair and sits on top of the mage. It was traditionally cut when undoing the hair style as a sign of ending a part of one’s life and beginning a new one, but this is now only performed for the sakkō (先笄) style.


The Maiko’s Final Hairstyle - Sakkō (先笄)
The final hair style worn before a maiko becomes a geiko. It was traditionally worn by brides-to-be during the Edo Period.
             
               Maiko Katsuyuki of Odamoto in Gion Kobu wearing the sakkō hairstyle

1) Daikan (大かん) - Specially designed by the maiko herself with good luck symbols.
2) Bekkō Kushi (鼈甲櫛).
3) Bira Ōgi (ビラ扇).
4) Maezashi (まえざし) or Bira Dome (びら留め).
5) Chinkoro (ちんころ).
6) Bekkō Hirauchi (鼈甲平打).
7) Shiraga Tonbo (白髪トンボ) - Plain, non-twisted, silver mottoi.


The Maiko’s Final Hairstyle - Sakkō Side View (先笄)                                    

1) Daikan (大かん).
2) Bekkō Kushi (鼈甲櫛).
3) Chinkoro (ちんころ).
4) Tama (玉).
5) Second Chinkoro (ちんころ二) - Tied through the hair instead of kanoko or tegara to symbolize the end of her childhood.
6) Ichidome Bekkō Sakkō Bar (位置止鼈甲笄) and Mottoi (元結) - The namesake of the sakkō style. The mottoi are paper wires that keep the intricate hairstyles of maiko and geiko in place. Here the mottoi are visible and keep the special ichidome sakkō bar in place. The mottoi will be cut during her Danpatsu Shiki (断髪式) ceremony that will free her hair after years of styling.
7) Shiraga Tonbo (白髪トンボ).


The Geiko’s Hair Style - Shimada (島田)
Geiko do not style their own hair but rather use a wig known as a Katsura (鬘). The shimada style was the traditional hairstyle for married women during the Edo Period. There are many different types of shimada hairstyles that are named after how high or how low the mage is positioned at the back of the style, but the ones that geiko use are simply called Geiko Shimada (芸妓島田).

                      
                Geiko Miehina of Harutomi in Miyagawa Cho on the day of her erikae

1) Maezashi (まえざし) - Worn on the left side where the maiko’s daikin/daikan kanzashi once sat. Geiko will cease to use them after a few years as a sign of maturity.
2) Kushi (櫛).
3) Tama (玉) - Worn on the left for formal occasions and the right for everyday.
4) Bekkō Kogai (鼈甲笄) - Sword-and-Sheath style kanzashi made from tortoiseshell. They are all antique since the sale of tortoiseshell is heavily regulated and almost non-existent now.
5) Hanemottoi (羽元結) - Thin, silver paper wires that sit atop the mage of the shimada hair style. They are similar to regular mottoi but are a bit thicker and always silver.


The Geiko’s Hair Style - Shimada Side View (島田)                                                        
              Geiko Katsugiku of Odamoto in Gion Kobu performing a tea ceremony

1) Maezashi (まえざし).
2) Kushi (櫛).
3) Bekkō Kogai (鼈甲笄).
4) Hanemottoi (羽元結).
5) Nemaki (根巻き) - Silver strips of paper tied around the base of the mage. The long “wings” of the nemaki will be cut once a geiko becomes jimae (independent) and only a simple, rounded nemaki will remain.


The Geiko’s Informal Hairstyle - Yōhatsu (洋髪)
                          
   Geiko Taneju of Takayoshi in Miyagawa Cho wearing her hair in the yōhatsu style

The up swept style that geiko use when not wearing a katsura. Yōhatsu literally means “Western Style” as it is modeled on Western up do’s and perms. 


The Basics of The Maiko’s Outfit

                      
                                     Maiko Mamefusa of Arai in Gion Kobu

1) Eri (衿/襟) - A red collar with gold flakes. As a maiko gains seniority white embroidery will be added to her collar (minus the back) until it is almost completely white. Leaving the back of the collar red shows that she is still a child.
2) Obiage (帯揚げ) - A piece of red cloth with a metallic silver or beaded pattern that’s meant to cover ties that are used when knotting a maiko’s obi. When a maiko becomes a senior in Miyagawa Cho, Kamishichiken, and Gion Higashi they will tie their obiage like geiko do. Gion Kobu and Pontocho maiko will only tie their obiage right before their erikae.
3) Obijime (帯締め) and Pocchiri (ぽっちり) - A long, 3cm (1.1in) thick cord used to keep the knot in a maiko’s obi together. It is decorated with a beautiful ornament made of precious stones and metals.
4) Kago (篭) - A bag with a bamboo base that maiko and geiko bring to their engagements. It contains business cards, dancing fans, and other small accessories.
5) Hikizuri (引き摺り) - The long, flowing type of kimono that maiko wear. The shoulder and sleeve tucks are meant to represent that of a child from the Edo Period. The tucks were traditionally put in to allow for a young child to grow into the kimono as high formality kimono were very expensive. The long sleeves, known as “Furisode” (振袖), show that she is a young, unmarried woman.
6) Juban (襦袢) - A red undergarment made of silk that’s worn to prevent skin from being shown while wearing kimono.
7) Zori (草履) and Tabi (旅) - Zori are leather sandals worn by maiko as an alternative to okobo (see below). The tabi are split toed socks that allow the wearer to grip the sandal thongs and are always white.

Close Up : Obijime (帯締め) and Pocchiri (ぽっちり)
        

The pocchiri is the most expensive item in the maiko’s wardrobe, costing more than the rest of her outfit combined. This specific one features gold and silver butterflies with the stones for their wings being made out of jade (green), agate (red/orange), tiger’s eye (yellow/orange), pink quartz (pink), and mother of pearl (white).


Maiko Alternative Footwear - Okobo (おこぼ)
           

1) Okobo (おこぼ) - Tall, wooden sandals (Geta - 下駄)  that are hollowed out and feature a bell inside to bring attention to the wearer. They are also known by the onomatopoeia of “Pokkuri” (ぽっくり) or “Koppori” (こっぽり). 
2) Hanao (鼻緒) - Silk thong straps that allow the wearer to grip onto the sandal. Junior maiko wear red hanao while more senior maiko will wear them in multiple, often bright colors.
3) Tabi (旅).
4) Juban (襦袢).


The Maiko’s Darari Obi (だらりの帯)

                            
                                  Maiko Fukusato of Ishihatsu of Miyagawa Cho

Approximately 6.7m (22ft) in length, this long, silken sash is meant to keep the kimono on the wearer. It is lavishly decorated with fine embroidery or beautiful hand painted motifs. The end features the kamon (家紋) of the girl’s okiya to identify which house she belongs to.


Special Maiko Obi Knot - Handara (半だら)
                        
                       Minarai Marika of Tsurui in Gion Kobu wearing a handara obi

Meaning “half length,” it is worn by a minarai, a girl who’s about to debut as a maiko. It is worn in all five hanamachi when a girl introduces herself to the tea houses for the first time. After three days she will switch to the full length darari. In Gion Kobu and Pontocho the handara is worn for most or even the entire duration of the minarai period. It is also worn the day after the misedashi where a girl re-introduces herself to the tea houses again as a maiko in plain clothing (with no make-up or hikizuri) in Gion Kobu.


Ten Visual Differences Between Maiko and Geiko

           
                   Maiko Ichiwaka and geiko Ichiyuri of Nakagishi in Gion Kobu

1) Kanzashi (かんざし/簪) - Hair ornaments that denote seasonality.
Maiko: Large and colorful
Geiko: Small and simple
2) Hair (髪) - Traditional Japanese Nihogami (日本髪) Styles
Maiko: Natural hair
Geiko: Wig (鬘)
3) Make Up - Denotes maturity
Maiko: White base with lots of pink added
Geiko: Mostly white with very little pink
4) Eri (衿/襟) - Kimono collars that denote rank and/or maturity
Maiko: Red with added embroidery
Geiko: Plain white
5) Kimono Tucks - Traditionally added to girls clothing to allow for growth
Maiko: Present on shoulders and sleeves
Geiko: None
6) Kago (篭) - Bamboo-base basket that holds accessories
Maiko: Bright and colorful
Geiko: Solid colors or minimal patterns
7) Obi (帯) - Sashes that keep the kimono on the wearer
Maiko: Long tied in a Darari (だらり) knot  
Geiko: Short tied in a Taiko (太鼓) knot
8) Kimono Sleeves (袖) - Rectangular sleeves often used in dance
Maiko: Long Furisode (振袖) style
Geiko: Short Kosode (小袖) style
9) Kimono Patterns - Displays seasonality and maturity
Maiko: Entire kimono covered in motifs
Geiko: Motifs are smaller and more spaced out
10) Juban (襦袢) - One or two piece under kimono that prevents skin from being shown
Maiko: Red with busy patterns
Geiko: Pink with small patterns

The Basics of the Geiko’s Outfit
After turning her collar and becoming a full geiko a woman will dress in a much more demure style. Most ornamentation worn when she was a maiko are now gone and she is supposed to attract customers by her gei alone.
                    
                Geiko Taneju of Takayoshi in Miyagawa Cho on the day of her erikae

1) Eri (衿/襟) - Pure white and devoid of any decoration.
2) Obiage (帯揚げ) - Pure red, devoid of pattern, and tied in a knot at the front. It will change to pink and finally to white as a geiko matures.
3) Obijime (帯締め) - Simple with no pocchiri.
4) Hikizuri (引き摺り) - Short sleeved “Kosode” (小袖) style to show that they are grown women.
5) Juban (襦袢) - Red for junior geiko and all geiko for formal occasions and pink for more senior geiko.

The Back of the Geiko’s Outfit
                  

1) Obi (帯) - Tied in a Taiko (太鼓) style knot (see below).
2) Hikizuri (引き摺り).
3) Juban (襦袢).
4) Tabi (旅).
5) Senryō Geta (千両下駄) - Much lower than the maiko’s okobo and feature a hollowed out section in the middle. 

The Geiko’s Taiko Knot Obi (太鼓結び)
                  

It is slightly longer than the average women’s obi at around 440cm (14ft) in length. Unlike normal patterns on a woman’s obi the geiko’s patterns are printed upside down, known as Hikinuki (引き抜き), so that the correct side will face upwards when tied in the special Geiko Taiko (芸妓太鼓) style knot.

Geiko Special Outfit - Hatsuyori

On January 13th all maiko, geiko, and okasan of Gion Kobu pay a visit to the Inoue iemoto. Natori geiko and the okasan, who are almost all natori as well, will wear a special kurotomesode and obi that are the embodiment of the Inoue school. The obi is light blue and features the Inoue kamon in gold. The kurotomesode has pine needs and camellia flowers, another symbol of the Inoue school.
                   
                      Natori geiko Fukuha and Satomi of Gion Kobu during Hatsuyori

Back View - Obi